Bevo
New member
Make sure you try setting the day mode at night or in a dark place with your headlights on. On mine the option did not show up until I tried it in my garage in the dark.
Future purchase...struggling between TE or SR5
- Thread starter cheeser
- Start date
Make sure you try setting the day mode at night or in a dark place with your headlights on. On mine the option did not show up until I tried it in my garage in the dark.
DesertCanyons
New member
Credit union and 5 year loan
Thanks for the positive reply Grammatik. That last line sounds very philosophical. But true.
I looked at the S&P 500 GSPC chart. It's hard for me to read. I'm not familiar. But it looks like the S&P gained about 20% in the last year, correct? We all know stocks are up now. They've recovered. But which ones do you invest in? My wife is better at investments than I am. I believe we have our 401K and Roth IRA in standard CD accounts. I'll ask her. She's my CFO.
As for 1% on a credit union car loan, I don't have that option. Most of the advertised loans I'm seeing, without really looking, are at 2.9%. If I were financing the car, I'd be shopping for that.
Taking a 5 year loan instead of a 3 year loan means you pay more for the car. It gets the monthly payment down, but you pay more in the long run. And you need to keep the car well over 5 years if you finance with a 5 year loan. Otherwise you still owe on the car if/when you trade it in. That's just how I see it.
I've kept all of my cars and trucks for many years: a Toyota mini truck for 20, a Ford Ranger for 10 and the Jeep for over 15 years - the last 3 trucks. As I said in another post, my 20 year old Jeep is getting expensive to find parts for. I need to trade the next car in sooner.
Thanks again for your reply.
Dave
Thanks for the positive reply Grammatik. That last line sounds very philosophical. But true.
I looked at the S&P 500 GSPC chart. It's hard for me to read. I'm not familiar. But it looks like the S&P gained about 20% in the last year, correct? We all know stocks are up now. They've recovered. But which ones do you invest in? My wife is better at investments than I am. I believe we have our 401K and Roth IRA in standard CD accounts. I'll ask her. She's my CFO.
As for 1% on a credit union car loan, I don't have that option. Most of the advertised loans I'm seeing, without really looking, are at 2.9%. If I were financing the car, I'd be shopping for that.
Taking a 5 year loan instead of a 3 year loan means you pay more for the car. It gets the monthly payment down, but you pay more in the long run. And you need to keep the car well over 5 years if you finance with a 5 year loan. Otherwise you still owe on the car if/when you trade it in. That's just how I see it.
I've kept all of my cars and trucks for many years: a Toyota mini truck for 20, a Ford Ranger for 10 and the Jeep for over 15 years - the last 3 trucks. As I said in another post, my 20 year old Jeep is getting expensive to find parts for. I need to trade the next car in sooner.
Thanks again for your reply.
Dave
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If I wound up with the SR5, was curious if adding an auburn LSD or Eaton Truetrac was worth the cost or if ATRAC was sufficient? I put the Truetrac in a 96 Bronco and it worked great for snowy conditions on the road, in addition to 4wheeling out on the local trails.
P.S. Looking forward to when the Packers come out to play Denver this fall...go Pack.
delloro
New member
I could not find either available for the 2015 4runner.
Jetboy
New member
I would say no, but I don't think anyone has ever done it - so no-one really knows how well the two would work together. I think adding an LSD would be a waste of money with ATRAC. ATRAC really does a pretty good job. For most people it's probably more than they ever need.
However, since I don't really know it very well could be the case that a tru trac works very well together with ATRAC and gives a very close approximation of a locker. I have had a tru trac in the front of one of my minitrucks and it was really good for a LSD. In many ways it was actually very similar in feel and ability to ATRAC. A very slight amount of brake pressure really helped the Tru Trac work better in the situations where a rear locker and front LSD weren't quite enough. For that reason I think there is a possibility a tru trac could actually find a nice harmonious relationship with ATRAC. But I just don't know.
If you're going into the diff, I'd go for a full locker and be done with it. Just my opinion. Wait a little longer, save a bit more, and put in what you really want.
Edit: Truetrac is the correct spelling. Doh.
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DesertCanyons
New member
ATRAC & Locking Diff
One thing to consider is the Toyota locking differential on the Trail is covered under warranty. When you add aftermarket parts you risk voiding the warranty - on the entire drive train. There are several reasons to buy the Trail over the SR5 for off-roading, like the manual, mechanically linked 4WD shift lever. But you have to do what's right for you.
You've gotten several answers about the ATRAC and whether it is a substitute for a locking differential in this thread already. My answer is no. Several people said that while ATRAC is a useful system, no one has said it is a substitute for a locking diff. The locking diff improved your 96 Bronco because it's a big advantage when you need it.
If you can install an aftermarket locking diff then the cost may be greatly reduced.
One thing to consider is the Toyota locking differential on the Trail is covered under warranty. When you add aftermarket parts you risk voiding the warranty - on the entire drive train. There are several reasons to buy the Trail over the SR5 for off-roading, like the manual, mechanically linked 4WD shift lever. But you have to do what's right for you.
You've gotten several answers about the ATRAC and whether it is a substitute for a locking differential in this thread already. My answer is no. Several people said that while ATRAC is a useful system, no one has said it is a substitute for a locking diff. The locking diff improved your 96 Bronco because it's a big advantage when you need it.
If you can install an aftermarket locking diff then the cost may be greatly reduced.
darrylj
New member
Mine was through a credit union, this year, awesome credit, and it was around 3%.
A lot of places that advertise 1.99% are also charging you fees where if you add them to the loan amount as if they were interest and compute a straight interest rate over 5 years, you're back up to 3.5 or 4% (*cough*Toyota financing*cough*).
Works if you can convince yourself it's still 1.99%, I guess.
Saker
Senior Member
BLACK-FL4RUNNER
Member
on the entire drive train? Really?
Depends on the dealer, some are bigger douches than others...
amicalola-man
New member
I live in Colorado as well and purchased a TE non KDSS. What I did was send emails to all surrounding Toyota dealers in the area with exactly the options I wanted including color and told them to find it and give the best price. Now I didn't have to run from dealer to dealer looking and all via email got dealers into a bidding war for my business.
Saker
Senior Member
Might want to read this.......Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act
Here is a little info:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2003949-post4.html
BLACK-FL4RUNNER
Member
I have worked at several dealers, I don't need to read anything about how they should treat customers, I just know first hand what has been denied due to "aftermarket" parts installed.
Again, some dealers have no problem performing warranty repairs, others like to take the opposite approach. YMMV
:yo:
Saker
Senior Member
Not getting into a p!ssing match here, just wanted to point out there are things they can't deny you (by law) because you've done mods to your T4R.
That's all, just information to help.
When a statement is made (not by you) like "When you add aftermarket parts you risk voiding the warranty - on the entire drive train." :gossip:
That is misinformation, period!
just sayin'
amicalola-man
New member
I choose the TE because I prefer the robustness of the manual stick for the 4wd and the stock locker. Yes the aftermarket ones are better, but for the time being it works great. I also went without the KDSS since my future plans involve lifts and why spend the 2k for something that I won't use.
DesertCanyons
New member
Warranty at Risk
Thanks. That's really helpful to know. It gives everyone a new way to look at warranty repairs when aftermarket lifts and diff's have been installed. It gives everyone a negotiating point when they have to go up the chain of authority at their dealership. An Ace in the pocket.
Lots of folks have posted here to say their dealers have told them the warranty was voided due to their installation of aftermarket parts. It's an indication of what many dealers are saying. That's why I say the warranty is at RISK of being voided. Not always and fore sure, but maybe and probably. Choose your battles wisely when considering stock parts versus aftermarket upgrades.
Thanks. That's really helpful to know. It gives everyone a new way to look at warranty repairs when aftermarket lifts and diff's have been installed. It gives everyone a negotiating point when they have to go up the chain of authority at their dealership. An Ace in the pocket.
Lots of folks have posted here to say their dealers have told them the warranty was voided due to their installation of aftermarket parts. It's an indication of what many dealers are saying. That's why I say the warranty is at RISK of being voided. Not always and fore sure, but maybe and probably. Choose your battles wisely when considering stock parts versus aftermarket upgrades.
whuuuuuu?
BLACK-FL4RUNNER
Member
Depending on the dealer, and the situation, they can refuse to warranty a concern.
Case in point, bring a lifted vehicle to a lees than cooperative dealer with torn cv boots. They can say no to the warranty repair, due to the increased angle the lift put on the cv boots, causing them to crack.
Drain your transmission fluid and add aftermarket fluid like Amsoil. If your trans fails, they don't have to warranty it.
Again, it ain't right but it happens.
Case in point, bring a lifted vehicle to a lees than cooperative dealer with torn cv boots. They can say no to the warranty repair, due to the increased angle the lift put on the cv boots, causing them to crack.
Drain your transmission fluid and add aftermarket fluid like Amsoil. If your trans fails, they don't have to warranty it.
Again, it ain't right but it happens.
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Apex Overland
New member
we financed thru Toyota, 0% for 60 months. yup 0% didn't mis-type that. that's why we financed and didn't buy it out right. oh yeah, and no fees were added on. of course we have outstanding credit so that might have played a part in it...
amicalola-man
New member
Sorry I thought the thread was about a TE vs SR5. Not about voiding a warranty.
If want to be safe don't mod your truck until warranty is out, simple. No matter what if you add mods you run the risk of someone not honoring the warranty.
