gas milage seems really bad at 12 mpg anyone else?

1) Calm down
2) Don't trust your readout
3) Nobody gets 12 without a many hundred pounds added to the T4R

well, i have a pretty heavy wooden double full length drawer system in the back, the hefty fabworks aluminum front bumper with 10k winch, roof rack, plus recovery gear, sliders. seemed like standard stuff everyone is doing, is everyone else with simliar set up getting 12 mpg?
 
i am going to go on a quick rant here. 2 weeks ago rented a dodge durango and drove the fam from oakland to seattle, hitting national parks. that durange is amazing, 24 mpg, a 9 speed tranny, tons of room.

WHY OH WHY after all these years, can't toyota put a good transmission in the 4runner and put a turbo on it as well. it's a no brainer in my opinion.

i love this 4runner but you know the old saying, it will pass anything but a gas station?

well toyota managed to make something that won't pass anything including a gas station. mine is fairly gutless, in my opinion.

i know this is a 4runner forum but has anyone researched other good simliar 4x4's that might get better milage with similiar setup, like 33's, roof rack, some xtra bumper weight and gearweight?
 
1) I'd double check your math.
2) I'd check for a stuck caliper.

I got 12mpg on my jeep wrangler with 35s and a roof basket on one road trip. I've never seen anything that bad on my 16 trail with 34s.

do you think you could feel a stuck caliper? like when you coast to a stop?
 
if i drive at speeds less than 70, i get around 16 to 18 mpg.

If I drive at speeds greater than 70, i get around 12 mpg.

So i typically get around 12 mpg cuz I have absolutely no patience when i'm driving.

OMG!! i will go crazy driving long distance if I go under 70 mph!
 
one thing to consider, is if you get ethanol in your gas...
pretty sure that just kills fuel economy..

i get 13.7 city driving.. supercharged, and slightly larger then regular load c tires. still sucks. i get 13.3 on my raptor. nothing fuel efficient here

Where did you get the blower done??
 
Check out my sig for my rig details. I've got about a 3" lift. I'm sitting right around 15 avg. More city driving = < 15 and more highway = > 15. That being said I usually don't go over 70 mph on the highway and I try to not have a lead foot.
 
I found that the computer calculation is not very accurate. It shows that I get about 17 mpg but if I do a manual calculation I get 18.5. The way I do it is like this. First, set your Trip-A meter to zero the next time you fill your tank. The next time you fill your tank, check the trip meter and write the mileage down. After you fill your tank, divide the number of miles on your trip meter by the number of gallons you just put in your tank. Your answer will give you you average mpg.

Here are some other things that can affect your mileage. Most have already been mentioned.

Oil - If you are running oil heavier than 0-20W this will reduce your gas mileage.

Oil Additives - like Lucas oil may help improve your mpg. Make sure you use the synthetic for “LIGHT WEIGHT OIL”. if you use the other synthetic or normal one you are essentially thickening your oil which will reduce your mileage. Lucas works wonders on engine that use a heavier weight. I’ve only had my 4Runner for 6 months and I’m still waiting to see if I’m getting better results. So far it looks promising.

Dirty Fuel Injector - If you have a older engine you most likely have a little carbon gunk build up inside. If you have enough build up on your fuel injector it could reduce burn efficiency a little which will reduce mileage. So try and runs some fuel injector cleaner through it. And since the fuel injectors on the 4Runner spray on the valves you’ll have the added benefit of getting those cleaned as well.

Dirty Engine - Same story as above but in the engine it turns into sludge. Just before a oil change run a engine flush for 5 min then change the oil. This will help remove sludge. I also, know some people who used Marvel Mystery Oil in their engine with good results but I have not tried this personally.

Gears - If you have a older car, check the fluids on your transmission, differentials and transfer case. Old oil can reduce efficiency. Just like the engine, these have scheduled oil changes too. Also if you have done heavy mountain climbing this can break down the oil quicker since you are running at higher rpms and if you were doing it in hot weather this will break it down even faster.

Breaks - Check and make sure your break pads aren’t riding on your rotors.

Skid Plates - I heard someone say that when he added skid plate that he ended up getting better mileage. His theory was that it smoothed the airflow underneath the truck. If anyone here already has some on their vehicle and noticed a change good or bad, please chime in.

Tires - Plenty of good info already given here. Just check your tire pressure.
 
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i have 285/70 r17 cooper discoverer at3 E rated. what did you wind up with milage wise?

Mine currently says 14.6 but I have not reset it since before the lift and tires and it has continued to drop. I am trying to stay oblivious to what it actually is but I know its dropped a lot. My driving style doesn't help.
 
i will work on doing that. and i am pretty sure they are properly inflated, i looked at the sticker inside the drivers door, i think it says 30 psi all around.

The door sticker is only valid for OEM equivalent tires, if you are running E range tires 30psi is way underinflated and contributing significantly to your poor mpg

Lookup a load-inflation chart for your tires, you should probably he over 40psi
 
" mine is fairly gutless, in my opinion. "

You loaded yours down with big tires, a metal bumper, a winch, a box on top and a drawer system and who knows what all and it's Toyota's fault you don't have enough money to buy gas to drag it all around?

Seriously?
 
so you MADE your own faring? or purchased it? does it just go from the roof rack to the roof? or does it extend to protect stuff on the rack from wind as well? any pics?

From the roof and up and over the rack to protect stuff (stuff, RTT, skis) as well. Water jet cut aluminum, bedliner, hardware is black now. Huge difference in wind noise as well. Modified hardware from Rhino racks fairing (theirs was terrible)
 

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You need to reset the mpg computer and drive your normal routes for a week and then look at your mileage. Don't use "long term" mpg calculations over 28,000 miles. I would guess you will end up seeing around 14 or 15 mpg at best unless you change the rake (if that turns out to be reverse rake) and possibly take off that sail of a box you have up top. Even if it's "low profile", its catching wind.

Your on road tire pressure should definitely be above 30psi.... prob more like 38-42psi in my opinion. E rated tires can be heavy as f*ck compared to stock so that drops your mpg significantly, but your cooper 3's may be C rated. I definitely think you have quite a bit of weight added, but you should be seeing above 12 with just a few changes.

I am sure you've idled somewhere or been stuck in traffic a few times in the last 28,000 miles to be at 12.9mpg.

Maybe you hit up the Sonic drive through and keep the 4runner idling... you been through a drive-in movie lately? (They still exist) :snacker: Just some crazy ideas, but definitely happen!
 
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From the roof and up and over the rack to protect stuff (stuff, RTT, skis) as well. Water jet cut aluminum, bedliner, hardware is black now. Huge difference in wind noise as well. Modified hardware from Rhino racks fairing (theirs was terrible)

that's a nice job!
 
The things that kill your mpg are the "leveling" lifts - I think these are the worst offender of all. Then the roof racks next and extra weight after that. I have about a 2-2.5" lift with factory rake and no roof rack. At 75mph I can still get about 19mpg calculated on the dash with 33" tires. Fully loaded with the fridge, camping gear, etc and roof rack with awning I averaged 16.7 on the dash over 1,400 miles on my last long road trip. That was with 34" E rated tires.

I really think it's changing the factory rake that causes the most MPG loss along with other stuff hung on the outside. That's why the TRD Pro also gets dinged by 1mpg is my bet. It's why I did the air suspension originally on mine and why I've been looking since then for a solution up front so I can run full air ride that I can setup to ride at least stock height or ideally 1 or 2 inches below that on the highway and then bump up to +3 for the trail.

THIS

Someone, maybe one of the engineeeeeers here, wrote a thread on fuel economy. I would link it if I could. But the basics are:

1) Math -- did you do the math to confirm what mpg you're getting?
2) Route and conditions -- obviously stop and go commuter driving gets poor fuel economy
3) Driving habits -- slow down maybe?
4) Wheels and tires -- without plunging into sprung and unsprung mass formulas that I can't complete, lighter wheels and tires produce better results; also, tire pressure
5) Weight -- not just your weight, your rig's weight, but watch your figure too
6) Suspension -- If you're not putting power to pavement, but it's getting soaked up by your suspension, that's bad; also, center of gravity, but it probably rolls into suspension
7) Aerodynamics -- we didn't have a good starting point, and most of us are making it worse

Is there more? Probably

and these!

I have clocked my mileage every tank with the CarXpenses app since I bought the truck six years ago.

I have a 2.5/2.0 (leveled), extra weight (AL armor, battery, air, winch, fridge, rec-gear, passanger + dogs :) ), and had BFG KO's C-rated 265/70r17's for years until I wore them out. I'v averaged 15.6 mpg. Highway only trips I get 17-19. City I get 11-16. Offroad+highway same as City.

I just "upgraded" to D rated Goodyear MT/R's 285/70r17 I have put in four tanks so far:
14.08 - city
12.59 - city + offroad + return highway
15.27 - city + highway
10.98 - offroad + return highway

So time will tell. I picked MT/R's specifically because they are D-Rated and NOT E-rated tires. C's I think are okay but this platform feels like it needs just a little more when you build it, even mildly, and E's are just overkill for general offroad and regular usage.

I too do think that going nose up really borks your mileage the most, second racks and crap on them. We are driving bricks, not as boxed as and FJ or even a Jeep K-series (which incidently get worse mileage than us) but bricks none-the-less

What do you expect if you want to go where you want and look cool doing it :D :twitch:
 
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