Gas mileage WAY down with 265 75 16's?

My experience:

Owned the truck for 3 winters with 265/70's (Wrangler RTS), and would see the FE go from about 20-22 avg. in the summer, down to about 18-19 in the winter.

This late summer I put on 265/75's (Duratrac), and now I rarely see over 20 in summer, and I struggle to get 16 in the winter.

Not sure what's up...runs fine, no codes, just super crappy FE this winter. More winter-blend fuel issues? I haven't yet tried a non-ethanol station...but I think I will next fill-up.
 
I have a set of Falken wildpeaks 265/75. I am getting between 18-20mpg....as long as keep my foot out of it. I drive a mix of city, highway, and montain roads every tank.
 
same story here, 2000 4runner 5VZFE, Automatic Trans, i had gotten up to ~ 24 MPG (on the freeway @ speed limit) on a long trip a bunnh of years ago, then i put 265/75R16 on OEM rims and have never seen that again....

average is ~16MPG
freeway: (if i'm lucky) 18
City: ~14MPG

been chasing my tail forever trying to improve my mileage.....

:smash:
 
With my stock tires 265/70 I also saw around 20-22 highway average and now switched to 255/75/17 (32") and still seeing around 18-20 in the winter with mixed town/highway/mountain driving. I am easy on the gas and use ECT mode all the time just to keep the trans from up shifting too early with the bigger tires. I have found running OD off on the highway actually gives me 1mpg better than OD on since it keeps the engine from bogging down with the taller tire.
 
Bad Gas Cap

I agree with DGO-SR5 with setting the ECT on and leaving the OD turned Off when driving,but only in the city traffic,I have not tried driving the OD off on the hwy. yet ,but should give it a try as well.One more thing to get better mileage is to replace your fuel cap,if it doesn't hold pressure and when you open it up after a few hundred miles or so and don't hear the pressure relief itself when opened,now is a time to put a new one,only about $12.00 or so ,some places are cheaper too,but not OEM stuff.After replacing the fuel cap,it improved the mileage by 2 galllons,thats quite a bit of fuel from a bad gas cap.Hope this help others getting the best milage on the 4Runners.
 
I need to be enlightened as to how a properly functioning fuel cap affects your milage....

mr shmabs,I'm not sure what you need to be on enlightened as how a functioning fuel cap works,chee wheez,you have the internet at your finger tips,please lets not go there,as I have explained to this forum,is that I have replaced my gas cap, cause of a leaky seal,I am releasing vapors into the atmostphere and the enviornments.The leaky seal cap also looses fuel rapidly while driving and my mpg has really gone bad.Since replacing it,I have gained back my performance and mpg as per 4runner specs. I'm not going to reply you on how a gas cap works.
 
mr shmabs,I'm not sure what you need to be on enlightened as how a functioning fuel cap works,chee wheez,you have the internet at your finger tips,please lets not go there,as I have explained to this forum,is that I have replaced my gas cap, cause of a leaky seal,I am releasing vapors into the atmostphere and the enviornments.The leaky seal cap also looses fuel rapidly while driving and my mpg has really gone bad.Since replacing it,I have gained back my performance and mpg as per 4runner specs. I'm not going to reply you on how a gas cap works.

Seriously? A gas cap fixed your fuel-efficient? Am I not in on this joke or something....? What are you saying 1/2 or 1 mpg?
 
"mr shmabs,I'm not sure what you need to be on enlightened as how a functioning fuel cap works,chee wheez,you have the internet at your finger tips,please lets not go there,as I have explained to this forum,is that I have replaced my gas cap, cause of a leaky seal,I am releasing vapors into the atmostphere and the enviornments.The leaky seal cap also looses fuel rapidly while driving and my mpg has really gone bad.Since replacing it,I have gained back my performance and mpg as per 4runner specs. I'm not going to reply you on how a gas cap works."

Quoted the above for gramatical humor.

Novasat,

First off, there wasn't any sarcasm implied, I was purely hoping for factual information tracked over a long enough period to prove your results to be valid. If you do in fact have that information, I would love to see it.

On another note, I can fully understand how vapor losses might affect your mpg, however I doubt it would be enough to make 2mpg difference, perhaps if you weren't running a fuel cap at all then you might see such dramatic results.

I did infact decide to follow your advice, and read on the internet (where everything is true) about RVP and how it pertains to gasoline, and the four most common types of evaporative emmision from the fuel system of a car.

There was some interesting research done in 2008 that concluded during fueling, the average american who fuels 1000 gallons a year would lose about 1/8th of a gallon per year to evaporative losses while re-fueling. Thats when fueling, with the cap off, not an apples to apples comparions with a faulty fuel cap, bus still a good read.

Effect of loss of fuel tank vapours on mileage - Motor Vehicle Maintenance and Repair Beta - Stack Exchange.


My tech additions to the thread:

My personal vehicle is a 1997 sr5 auto 4runner and has 265/75/16 duratracs (load range C) steel wheels, 4.30 gears, with sliders and t-case skid, and some additional extra weight. I am still able to achieve 20 mpg occasionally. The last time i tracked it was on the strech of highway 101 in Northern CA (mckinleyville) to southern oregon (coos bay). I used my gps to account for my speedometer and odometer innacuracy, and filled up at the same pumps during the same time of day. But let it be know, I was driving with mpg in mind. Around my town of residence, with lots of short trips and stoplights, 16-18 mpg is the norm.

The biggest difference i noticed with 265's was the weight, and i chose my specific tire because it was light (relatively) and will be ultimately swapping to aluminum wheels in the future to shave a few more pounds of rotating weight.

And I'm going to check the seal on my gas cap tomorrow, every little bit helps right?!?!

Thanks for the heads up novasat!

Back to the regularly scheduled thread.

Mike
 
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For those of you experiencing mpg decreases when switching to larger tires, are you accounting for the difference in circumference of the larger tires compared to your baseline? I'm using a 1.05 correction factor on our GX470, which brings things in line as far as the odometer is concerned, meaning if I didn't do the correction my odometer would under-report by 5%, and my fuel economy figures would be out by the same amount.

If you really want to compare apples to apples you would have figured out how far out your previous tires were as well, they could have been smaller than the odometer was calibrated for meaning the odometer was overreporting, inflating your baseline figures. It's very rare for your odometer/speedometer to be bang on accurate from the factory, take a drive with a GPS and you'll see what I mean.

Other factors are the weight of the tires, if you're coming from a P-rated tire and throw on some E-load 10-ply monsters, there is going to be a SIGNIFIGANT increase in rotating mass (the worst kind of mass), and it's situated on the outside edge of the rotating object (the worst place for that extra mass). Think back to when you were a kid on a merry-go-round, and the effect your mass had depending on if you were on the inside or the outside of the merry-go-round, it makes a huge difference. Every pound of weight added or removed to the tire is roughly equal to 2 pounds of static weight. Say your 10-ply tires weigh 15lbs more each than the tires they replaced, that's like throwing 120lbs in the back of the truck, every day, all the time. Just for fun, weight added/removed to the wheels is worth roughly 1.6lbs of static weight, due to the closer proximity to the centerpoint.

The Effects of Rotational Inertia on Automotive Acceleration

Then there's the gearing change from going to a larger circumference tire, you can re-gear, or live with it. But it's also a factor.

If you went with wider than stock tires, you have extra road friction and wind resistance which will be factors as well.

Bigger tires come at a price, so don't go bigger than you need, unless you're prepared to live with the downside. For most, the upside far outweighs the downside though.
 
Same thing happened to me. As you make it more offroad capable, you lose onroad performance.
With my Yokohama Geolander HTS P265/70R-16 (45.2 lbs) I got around 20mpg AVG, With my BFG AT KO and Cooper Discoverer ATP OWL LT265/75/16 (49 lbs Each) I went down to 17MPG. All maintanance has been performed. Just bought a 3" lift. Gonna go down some more!
I am leaving my Carbon Footprint on the hood of your Hybrid!
:roadkill:
 
well according to my GPS and the police "your speed" signs, my speedo is NOW correct, AFTER putting 265/75's on.... and still i see no better then ~16-18 MPG as compared to before hand ~20ish average MPG (25 a few times on the freeway during long haul trips).... C rated tires (i don't know their weight off hand).

it's been awhile since i replaced the fuel filter, but that's all that is needed to be done, plugs are new, air filter is cleaned, new fluids all around. RockAuto here i come for a fuel filter!! :keyboard:
 
well according to my GPS and the police "your speed" signs, my speedo is NOW correct, AFTER putting 265/75's on.... and still i see no better then ~16-18 MPG as compared to before hand ~20ish average MPG (25 a few times on the freeway during long haul trips).... C rated tires (i don't know their weight off hand).

I actually had the same experience, my speedo was bang on accurate after putting the bigger 265/75/16 tires on. What that means, is that your odometer was overreporting your miles prior to the new tires, so you were never actually getting 20ishmpg, you just weren't using a correction factor to make your calculations accurate.

Now the figures are accurate, the new tires are approx. 3.4% larger, so your 20ish mpg you were getting before was really more like 19.3mpg in reality. Not a huge difference from what you thought (and maybe not perfectly accurate still as you never figured out your actual correction factor on the old tires), but better numbers from which to work from.
 

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