Gear opinions 4.88 or 5.29, and i have searched

the bigger tires offset that gearing though, so with dual case and 529s and 40" tires on a 8" solid axle its not the same. CVs are no where near as strong as birfields, and stock birfields are not the strongest. i have wheeled some trucks with dual case and 529s.
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this truck had 37s with 529s, longfields, ARBs F&R and dual cases and we still would snap stuff. this was back when i lived in CA and would run the rubicon 2-3 times a year along with fordyce and several other trails. we finally went to dana 60s and cut them down as much as possible to keep it as narrow as we could...


im not trying to say dont go to 529s, in fact i think he should, he will be much more happy with the out come. but i am rather cautioning J and anyone else who is thinking about this that with lowering the gearing comes added risk of breaking parts.

yes J will no doubt be able to go more places with the 529s, but that will also lead him to try new harder lines on things which will lead him to pressing things further harder. and that will lead to more breakage of stuff. its just the nature of the sport. just trying to say what no one else is saying so that everyone who is thinking about this will be on the same page with the most info available. :bigok::cheers:
 

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IMO, a 5 speed with 5.29s = an auto with 5.71s - feel wise. I still think 5.29s is too low for a 5 speed, but whatever he chooses will be better than his 4.10s now!
 
IMO, a 5 speed with 5.29s = an auto with 5.71s - feel wise. I still think 5.29s is too low for a 5 speed, but whatever he chooses will be better than his 4.10s now!

oh come on now, you just dont wanta be showed up next time you two go out wheeling together... lol:roadkill:
 
This is a really tough one.:ybrick: I know I could easily run 35's but am happy with the way it is right now (slightly over geared). So I'm thinking that while your math may be correct Brian, he may end up like me if he goes 5.29's in the sense that he may run a couple k higher rpm's than he'd like on longer trips, but in the end having the power he needs for everyday use evens it out.
That said, I'm still gonna vote 5.29 even though Brian is making me think twice about it.
Build one 5.29 third and see how you like it. If you hate it then you will know and you can easily sell the 5.29 third if you decide to go 4.88. Problem solved.:nerd:
 
so there are my numbers im working with. I NEED a slower gear offroad. to me its worth a little highway mpg sacrifice. This truck will probably never get a crawl box so it needs to be in a good wheeling range just off gears alone.

Im leaning hard towards 5.29's What do you all think. Its just a driveable wheeler. ohh btw Im not interested in the strength argument that 488's are stronger than 5.29s If i was worried i wouldnt be running ifs still. The cv's will blow out first. To me 488's are a plus from my current setup, but i dont think its enough to matter offroad. And thats really what im looking for. I am just trying to see if you all think 5.29's (given my numbers) will be bearable.

5.29's all the way.
 
Allright so i have basically sold my self on the 5.29s. went wheeling last night. My clutch is going to die soon if i dont re-gear... I cant help but slip it the whole time. Any ways i also played around with the calculator again. And i compared 5.29s and 35's to 4.10's and 31's since that was where the factory though was good. Turns out 5.29s is only about 300 rpms higher in 5th at 65 than stock. I have been driving around with my gears all out of whack for so long and i shouldnt even be looking at my current ratio since it sucks. So looking at stock the 5.29's with 35's should be real nice. I think the extra few rpms might just be fine since the truck weighs so much. I will have to lear how to drive it. 65 mph may be its happy spot. on the way to the trails. Currently i can go about 85 mph at 3k rpms. 4.88s make the gearing almost exactly back to stock with 35's.

I think the 5.29s are gonna be the best compromise. plus 65 mph long trips= no tickets
 
you will be happy, you could(should) also (when the time comes) replace the clutch with a more heavy duty clutch like a center force dual force or something along those lines. i have those in my trucks and they feel like the stock clutch and have way more holding power and can take some serious abuse(one has an LCE motor 2.6l 22re with stock 410 gearing and 33s) over loaded.jpg

i love the center force clutch, i wont ever buy another brand
 

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I have a brand new aisin clutch in it. I did the whole job in a day alone and i really really really dont want to have to do another clutch for while.

Finding HD clutches for the 3.4 is a little hard. I got this aisin clutch kit with koyo bearings for $190 Those center forces are pricey, But that may be in the future.... If the gearing doesnt help, But im hoping it does.... I think the issue is the tire size and weight of my truck with the 4.10s. Lets hope the gears and 35s help
 
i have a stock 92 4runner

i wanna uprgrade to 315.75.16 tires. my buddys are telling me i need to uprgrade my gear ratio. i believe i have 4.10 , not quite sure. i want to do a 2 and 3 inch lift. this is still my daily driver, so i dont wanna go to crazy. but i still want to have that torque when in mud and towing my boat. theres not many mountains where i live. people are saying i should go with 4.88s, and some are saying, 5.29s
so again i will have 35s ,2and 3 inch lift, what would be the best gear ratio,,? help me.. thanks guys
 
i wanna uprgrade to 315.75.16 tires. my buddys are telling me i need to uprgrade my gear ratio. i believe i have 4.10 , not quite sure. i want to do a 2 and 3 inch lift. this is still my daily driver, so i dont wanna go to crazy. but i still want to have that torque when in mud and towing my boat. theres not many mountains where i live. people are saying i should go with 4.88s, and some are saying, 5.29s
so again i will have 35s ,2and 3 inch lift, what would be the best gear ratio,,? help me.. thanks guys

What motor? What transmission? Where do you live?
 
I realize this is off topic, but seeing as though this thread is active and talking about gearing...

Just curious, whats involved in running a single 4.7 case in place of the stock transfer case? It doesn't seem like many people go that route.
 
so there are my numbers im working with. I NEED a slower gear offroad. to me its worth a little highway mpg sacrifice. This truck will probably never get a crawl box so it needs to be in a good wheeling range just off gears alone.

You answered your own question :) Just drive a little slower on the highway or rev the snot out of it if you're in a hurry. Thug life.
 
I realize this is off topic, but seeing as though this thread is active and talking about gearing...

Just curious, whats involved in running a single 4.7 case in place of the stock transfer case? It doesn't seem like many people go that route.
You gotta buy an inchworm lefty transfer case, or a marlin toybox (which I don't think are for sale anymore). Minimum $2-3k out the door for a single transfer case I think.

Probably cheaper, but also more work to get a 4.7 gear drive case and put that between the trans and your stock case with adapters (TG has a kit) and run dual cases.
 
You gotta buy an inchworm lefty transfer case, or a marlin toybox (which I don't think are for sale anymore). Minimum $2-3k out the door for a single transfer case I think.

Probably cheaper, but also more work to get a 4.7 gear drive case and put that between the trans and your stock case with adapters (TG has a kit) and run dual cases.

Is there a reason why toyota didnt spec a lower reduction ratio (ie. closer to a 4.7) in the stock transfer cases? Correct me if I'm wrong, but with a 4.7 reduction, 1-hi will be almost identical to 5-lo with the R150F manual trans.
 
I realize this is off topic, but seeing as though this thread is active and talking about gearing...

Just curious, whats involved in running a single 4.7 case in place of the stock transfer case? It doesn't seem like many people go that route.

What's involved? Remove case, install gears, reinstall case. No mods to shifters or tunnel or driveshafts necessary.

I run a single 4.7 case, and it's great. The downside is the lack of a standard low range - you'll either wind it out to do 10mph between obstacles, or you'll be stopping to shift in and out of low range a lot. Considering the entry cost of a dual case setup, it's all worth it though.
 
What's involved? Remove case, install gears, reinstall case. No mods to shifters or tunnel or driveshafts necessary.

I run a single 4.7 case, and it's great. The downside is the lack of a standard low range - you'll either wind it out to do 10mph between obstacles, or you'll be stopping to shift in and out of low range a lot. Considering the entry cost of a dual case setup, it's all worth it though.
oh.. does this not contradict what white_n_slow said?

That doesnt sound too bad, it would be like driving in 1-hi.
Do you have a link to a 4.7 gearset for the 3rd gen 4runner?
 
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Stupid 3rd gen section, tricks me all the time.

Everything I said is valid for a truck with a stock gear-drive case (ie, 1st gens with the W56). With your R150, you would need at a minimum to buy an adapter to tie your transmission to a gear drive case that you could install the 4.7s in. Or, as Whitey noted, go for a solution like a Lefty or Tacobox, which I don't know enough about to comment intelligently on. If you're looking for options, call the guys at Marlin Crawler and Advance Adapters and see what they've got for you.

For my setup, high range first gear is almost identical to low range fifth gear. Check out Gear Ratio Calculator if you wanna play with the numbers.
 

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