Gentex Mirror install question

[CookieRoe]

Hello All,

So, I've been wanting to install a Gentex mirror with Homelink/Monitor/Dimming. I have a Limited (already a dimming mirror from the factory), so a plug for the +/- are there to power it (Gentex mirror). However, the mirror is made for a reverse camera, so I want to install a front camera instead. So that means, of course, no reverse trigger or wiring it to the rear lights. I wanted to install a Toyota-like button (I got it here: Amazon.com: CH4X4 Push Switch for Toyota - Front Camera Symbol 2 - Amber LED: Automotive ) to activate the video. The directions specifically say to use a relay for this. I contacted the place that sold me the mirror and they say that a relay is not needed. The camera only uses less 3amp. The swtich (from Amazon) is rated at DC-12V-3A. I was going to use a piggyback (add a circuit) and use a 3A fuse, then run that wire to the button.

My question is: So a relay isn't really necessary? All I'm doing is turning on that front camera and that's it. I included a drawing of how I wanted to wire this.

Thanks for any input!

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[Dillusion]

I've always put relays but at 3A I don't think it would kill you not to put it.

But you will want to use a bigger than 3A fuse if the camera draws 3A.

 

[CookieRoe]

I've always put relays but at 3A I don't think it would kill you not to put it.

But you will want to use a bigger than 3A fuse if the camera draws 3A.

Problem is: I'm not familiar with relays. If I use one, would a 4 pin would do the trick? Also, what rating relay? I can't find anything less than 20A.

3A b/c I was told the "trigger" only draws less than 1A. A 3A fuse is more than enough, plus the switches limit is 3A.

Thanks

 

[Dillusion]

You will need a 4 Pin one. (2) pins will be your trigger and (2) pins will be the power to the camera.

I'm confused now because you said the camera draws (3) amps? The relay coil should draw less than 1A so thats not going to be a problem. But your camera power should be fused as well. And if the camera draws 3A and your fuse is 3A you will be popping it a lot if not all the time. I see the switch link to amazon and it is rated for 3A. If the camera does indeed draw 3A I personally say not a good idea though the switch could handle.

Post a link to your camera and we start from there.

 

[CookieRoe]

You will need a 4 Pin one. (2) pins will be your trigger and (2) pins will be the power to the camera.

I'm confused now because you said the camera draws (3) amps? The relay coil should draw less than 1A so thats not going to be a problem. But your camera power should be fused as well. And if the camera draws 3A and your fuse is 3A you will be popping it a lot if not all the time. I see the switch link to amazon and it is rated for 3A. If the camera does indeed draw 3A I personally say not a good idea though the switch could handle.

Post a link to your camera and we start from there.

Sorry, my bad, the vendor said with all the functions on (Gentex), the draw is much less than 3A. With the camera being on, the amps that will be used will be less than 1A.

Quote: Ok so for wiring in the switch, you should be OK with no relay. The reverse trigger wire connection that causes the mirror to turn on will only be drawing <1 amp. In fact, most of these mirrors require nothing more than a 3 amp fuse to operate all functions, meaning the actual draw is going to come in well under that.

Link to the camera I purchased: Amazon.com: NATIKA Backup/Front View Camera,IP69K Waterproof Great Night Vision HD and Super Wide Angle Metal OEM Style Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for Cars Pickup Trucks SUVs RVs Vans (Black): Car Electronics

Thanks!

 

[Dillusion]

Something like this but replace lights with camera.

 

[CookieRoe]

Something like this but replace lights with camera.

[MENTION=267992]Dillusion[/MENTION], I can't thank you enough! Anyway, I was looking over the switch, camera and mirror specs. I double checked and as per the vender, he mentioned that the draw of all it's functions do not exceed 1 amp. Now, the camera itself draws 12v (of course), but no mention of amps. BUT, if you look at the questions/answers (on Amazon) of the camera, they do mention to hook up to a 1 amp fuse. Also, on the box it came with, again, no mention of amps. The only mention of amps is the switch itself (rated at 3A). So everything being used, the draw would be less than 2A.

Thanks again!

 

[juanlien]

following

 

[CookieRoe]

After talking to the vendor more, he actually bench tested my set up and told me that the draw is 12v (of course) and less than 1 amp. He told me I could get away with not going with a relay and/or add-a-fuse kit. Hooked it up and works great. It's an anytime camera, so that is cool, but I can't imagine using it all the time, it's just something I've always wanted to do.

I went with the lower front bumper. I wanted it to be stealthy. The upper grille probably could've been a better choice, but I'm happy with the results. Next step is to paint it semi-gloss black.

Dremeled the the space between the front license plate mounts

Each horizontal grille is C shaped (cross section) so to properly accommodate the camera, a thin insert is needed to fit the bolt on top of the camera (Natika camera) and the bottom grille needs to be dremeled more in order to fit the camera itself. Here is a pic looking up from the ground.

Like I mentioned before, I used a toyota-looking front camera button to turn it on. Even got it in amber to match the rest of the buttons when the lights are turned on. In this pic, the camera is turned on (why the light it on)

Night shot

I'll try to get a better pic, but this is fine for me. I couldn't mount it more forward to prevent the lower grille being in the picture, but that serves as a reference for me.

Thanks for everyone's input.