GeoRoss' 1986 4Runner

GeoRoss

New member
I have always wanted to get a 1st gen 4Runner. I almost bought one new in 1988 after graduating from high school. I got cold feet at the thought of spending all the money I had saved. Oh well, it took some time and here we are.

Flash forward to the early 2000's. My wife and I bought a new 2002 4Runner. We loved that vehicle. I however couldn't use it for work. I am a field geologist and often find myself in tricky places. I planned on finding a 3rd gen 4Runner for field work.

I then began working in Tibet where we used Land Cruisers. When I saw what they could do my plans changed. I found and bought a 1994 FZJ80 Land Cruiser 12 years ago. It has been modified and has been an utterly reliable vehicle for both work, cross country vacations and around town. It needs a break for some maintenance and upgrades. I'm now so busy with kids I find it entirely too stressful trying to finish projects over a weekend. Last summer I decided I needed a daily driver.

:mmph:

How about finding a 1st gen 4Runner? :wanna:

I began searching here in AZ and really not finding anything worthwhile. Either too beat, too modified or too EXPENSIVE. Around Labor Day a friend of mine in Sacramento decided to sell his project, a 1986 4Runner with 113,000 miles on it. He had done most of the engine tune up and other things too it mechanically. It had some body damage and he had already sourced a new hood and cowl, ds door and ds front fender. It needed a bumper. He found some gently used 2nd gen seats and had already installed the fronts. He had obtained a 4Runner e-locker too. He put 3rd gen 4Runner wheels on it, but included some 15" aluminum American Racing wheels. He had sourced some of the interior pieces as well. He included the FSM and EWD and a 3rd member e-locker.

It took until just before Christmas before I could fly up and buy it. Fall was an exercise in patience.

First experience in a Land Cruiser
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Fun at Cruise Moad on Golden Spike with the Land Cruiser
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Camping in Northern Arizona with the Land Cruiser
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Camping on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon with the Land Cruiser
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The picture in the first post is right before I leave Sacramento and head to Arizona.

It was an uneventful trip back. The CEL came on once during a WOT up a steep grade, code 5.

The driver door and wing window leaked air like it was nobodies business. It was a really fun trip.

Barstow, CA
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Somewhere near Joshua Tree NP.
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Back in AZ

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First things first, it had no front bumper. The 4Runner had been in a minor front end accident that messed up the front end, ds front fender door and back fender.

I really wanted front turn signals. Without the front turn signals the back ones blinked like a strobe light, plus I wanted to be legal. I found a beat up bumper at a local salvage yard. Ugly, but I now had a bumper with turn signals.


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While installing this bumper I discovered that the ds bumper bracket that is welded to the cross beam was bent back. I bent it mostly back into place. I'll need to re-weld it, but it is fine short term. This was the first hint that there was hidden damage lurking.

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Look carefully at the ds core support. There is a slight tweak at the top.

While at my first salvage yard trip (the first of many) I was able to score some goodies.


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They are the wrong color, but that can be fixed easily. They threw in the roll bar pad for free. I felt a little robbed paying $80 for the altimeter, but then when I looked on eBay they are the ones who left money on the table.

They also gave me the dash pad. It is an ugly mess, not as nice as the one in my 4Runner. I thought I might use it to experiment with recovering a dash pad. There are some very interesting videos on youtube showing how to do it.
 
This 4Runner has become my daily driver. My role is often the chauffeur. I wanted to get the 2nd gen seats in and to put some 3-point belts in ASAP.

This is what I discovered taking the original seat out.

NO FRAME! :eeek: :lol:

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What the heck is this?
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Lets explore this a little.
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I guess the wood frame needed a spacer. It was screwed through the floor with these.
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I siliconed the holes for now. Sadly, they ground out the latches. I need to go the PnP and get some new ones.
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I really wanted to use the 2nd gen seat frame. Especially after finding out I didn't have a bottom seat frame. I soon discovered that it wouldn't work without a little welding. I don't have a welder and my friend how has one is scared of thin stuff. So back to the salvage yard and $40 poorer I had the complete seat frame for the back seat. Hog ties are not that bad and I think it turned out good.

I do need to source the bottom seat floor latches. As soon as I get a welder, I will but the 2nd gen seat frames in. There is a large gap right now between the seat bottoms and seat backs. The seat belts keep falling in.

I pulled the rear seat belts out of a 2000 Subaru Outback. They are black and do not match. At some point I will replace them with something from Seatbelt Planet. $20 for the pair.


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The donor seats were signed.

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I accumulated parts over the winter months and slowly put them on. I bought an ebay front bumper, valence and end caps. had to make the brackets for the valence and end caps. I was finally able to source some at a salvage yard. They need a little welding and massaging before I put them on. But the redneck version will work for the time being.

Front bumper v2.0

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Parts Horde
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I had to make a bracket for the new shifter boot too. It isn't perfect and I'll do it again later.
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This was from eBay. I feel a little ripped off, but it goes with the FSM and EWD the seller gave me.
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I've already put the side mirrors on. They look rough and I need to wire them, but much better than what was on there.
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When I bought the 4Runner, the PO had swapped in the SR5 gauge cluster for an automatic. I could live with this cluster for awhile, but the oil pressure isn't working. I did't know if it was a wiring issue, gauge or sender issue. It has the correct sender. I just ordered the SR5 gauge cluster for a 5-speed and I'm taking this opportunity to test out the oil pressure loop. The receiver in the auto transmission gauge cluster passes the FSM test, 44.3 ohms. The sender failed both tests. 2V with the key to ignition and could not cause a 3.4W bulb to flash with the engine running. I just picked up a new SMC Automotor PS186 sender. I'll install it this afternoon.

When I pop in the new gauge cluster, I'll look at the door buzzer. I think it was unplugged as the ds door doesn't turn on the dome light. I hope that is all.

I knew when I bought the 4Runner the AC didn't work. This May it finally got hot enough to get it fixed. We hoped it just needed a recharge. It was leaking from the compressor shaft. :(

$700 later I have a new compressor and an AC that works. That is ~1/3 the price I paid for the 4Runner. :eeek:

Well the 4Runner is read for its first adventure. We only had one daughter in town during Memorial Day and decided to go camping. Let's take the 4Runner.


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We loaded up and headed to get gas. I noticed that is was riding a bit funny. At the gas station I looked underneath to find I was riding on the bumpstops. I knew the springs were tired, but yikes. Well, we transferred everything to the minivan and changed location. Vacation saved and we had some bears wander near our campsite, so remote enough.
 
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Things to do:

Mechanically

I get this intermittent code 5. I this thread leads me to think it is not much of an issue at this time.

I have low idle at start up. It idles anywhere from 200-500 when cold and then around 600 when warm. The IACV may need some tinkering. I do need to bump up the idle as it is around 600-650 when warm.

Suspension. I need new springs. I only want a mild lift and be able to carry a full load. I go back and forth. I may just use some coil helpers temporarily and then replace the springs later. I have some OME medium duty springs on the way. I may remove a leaf or swap in one of the tired stock leaves to get a lower lift. We will see as my plans are always changing. I'll use the OME bushings and U-bolts, but the stock shackles. Mine appear to be in good condition. I found some 3rd gen springs locally for $30. I may go this route as I will need this 4Runner in a few weeks.

Tires at some point. The Wrangler ST's are really just street tires, but they will work for the time being.

Wire up the electric side mirrors. It shouldn't be too hard. I didn't see them in my quick scan of the EWD.

Rear e-locker. I have found that the rear e-locker is all I'll ever need. I am just going to source a rear axle housing and slowly do the modification to fit it in. Lots of online resources, but this will happen later. I did purchase the switch from a 3rd Gen. I'm thinking about methods to have an indicator light up in the instrument panel. Something like this.

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Right now that is it.

Appearance
I have a quote to get it painted, $3,000. I want to address the body stuff first. The most concerning for me is the ds door check mount on the a-pillar. It needs to be totally rebuilt. Sadly, from my surgery at the PnP I will need to cut an access port from the front to do this like the factory. If there is any feedback or help on this I would appreciate it.

I need to do a new carpet and try to sound proof.

The interior is mostly intact. I will try and make some vinyl covered door panels as the ones I have are the 3/4 version. I have some beat up full door panels to use as a template.

These are the initial plans.
 
Here are the two body problems I'm unsure about. The least of them is the core support. You can see a minor pucker at the toward the center of the core support. I need to put my good fender on to check alignment. I'm really hoping that things line up well. I drilled out the core support of one at the PnP. It was hot and a PITA. I thought it would take 30 minutes. WRONG! I have to say I'll be greatly relieved if I don't need to replace it.

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The one that worries me is the A-Pillar door check mount. You can see the top half is missing and the bottom half is hanging by a thread. I saw the two spot welds and thought easy-peasy, I'll go to the PnP and pull one. 1 hour of surgery showed me how wrong I was. I suspect I'll have to cut an access port on the back side to really fix this. I'm really hoping that somebody has an excellent idea.

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I did manage to pick up a pair of 3rd gen 4Runner rear springs for $30. They sure do look small next to Land Cruiser rear springs. I thought they were bigger. They are 15" high and have ~3/8" OD.

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I've been really torn on doing the helper coil even temporarily. Circumstances forced my hand. It doesn't help that I really haven't every worked with leaf springs either and that compounds my indecision. I need the 4Runner for a project in N. AZ sooner than I think I can make a decision on how to install the OME leaf springs that arrive tomorrow. I wish I had time to experiment.
 
I took a gamble on pulling the Nuetral Safety Start switch off a 2nd gen 4Runner. My current one works, but its label is rubbed off. I encountered only two problems. I'll have to remove a plastic lip on the switch that only helps orient the switch during installation. It won't be seen so is a not an issue.

The second is the plug. The 1st gen is hard wired and plugs in to the harness with a pigtail. The 2nd gen plugs directly into the harness.

I can either go to a salvage yard and get a second gen plug which will require a little research of the EWD's or I can do surgery on the switches and swap the face plates.
 
You definately got a good deal on the inclinometer. Those are getting rare, everyone wants oje for their build. I paid 116 for mine with wiring and mounting bracket but I see complete ones go for as much as 300.
 
You definately got a good deal on the inclinometer. Those are getting rare, everyone wants oje for their build. I paid 116 for mine with wiring and mounting bracket but I see complete ones go for as much as 300.

I know! I was pricing them on eBay and was shocked. When I went to pick up a front bumper the salvage yard let me go in and look at the 4Runner. When I saw the inclinometer I grabbed it. The lady was going to let me have it for $40, but her boss saw it and said $90. Still a huge bargain. They threw in the roll cage cover and really cracked up dash for free. I'm going to experiment recovering the crappy dash pad's vinyl. My current one only has on crack.

I just installed by new oil pressure sender. The PO installed an AutoZone oil pressure sender when he installed the SR5 cluster. The oil pressure gauge did not register any pressure.

I have the dash apart and decided to test everything. The oil pressure receiver in the cluster specs out OK according to the FSM, 44.3 ohms. However, the oil pressure sender failed both FSM tests. Only about 2V with the ignition on and could not light up a 3.4W bulb.

No problem, I'll pick up a new oil sender. I picked up a new oil pressure sender today, Intermotor PS186, made in Japan. I installed it with teflon tape only leaving the bottom 2 or 3 threads free. I still don't have any oil pressure register at the pressure gauge. :mad:

I checked out the new sender. 6.5V with the ignition on and cannot light a 3.4W bulb. Sort of passes the first test (it should be 4.5V) and fails the second. Did I get two bum senders? I was cautious not to screw it in to far, it doesn't leak. Do these pressure senders need to be seated on something or just screwed in enough not to leak? I've never messed with oil pressure senders before.

I'll order a OEM pressure sender and return this one I guess.
 
I did buy some OME medium duty rear springs today. They should be here tomorrow afternoon. :wow2:

I've read that you can pull a leaf for reduced lift. I've contacted ARB to confirm this and which leaf. I could also replace an OME leaf with one of my tired leaves too I guess. It will take some experimentation.

I'm trying to decide whether or not to throw in the coil springs as a temporary solution.
 
I may have missed if you adressed it or not but for the driver door and dome light you wanna pull that kick panel cover and see if the wire was unplugged. Mine was when i bought it i would imagine its because if you open the door with the key in the ignition you get a rather loud buzzer going off. The downside is if you unplug it it also cuts out the domelight/door connection.
 
:cheers:

Thanks for the confirmation. I didn't know it was in the kick panel. I thought it was behind the dash for some reason and was going to address it when I had the instrument cluster out. I had the instrument cluster out but forgot to look for the buzzer. I was rushed due to an impending thunderstorm.

I wonder if I can take that thing apart and disable the noise maker.
 
:cheers:

Thanks for the confirmation. I didn't know it was in the kick panel. I thought it was behind the dash for some reason and was going to address it when I had the instrument cluster out. I had the instrument cluster out but forgot to look for the buzzer. I was rushed due to an impending thunderstorm.

I wonder if I can take that thing apart and disable the noise maker.

Well the buzzer isnt actuallu down there if i remember correctly. The plug im talking about is where the door wire plugs into the body harness.
 
the key buzzer is under the dash, above the parking brake handle. it's a small black box. if you remove the box, your dome light won't work with the doors open. however, you can open the box, and bend the metal tab that creates the buzz (you'll see when you open the box how to do this) and retain the "door open dome light on" function without the key buzz noise.
 
Thank you both!

I ordered an OEM oil pressure sender from LCE. It ends up being about the same price as I paid for the one that is dead in the box. I spent some time with google and there is just enough internet lore out there to be nervous using an aftermarket oil pressure sender.
 
Nice build so far...im from Tucson but i live in phx now..what yard are you finding these parts? Im having hard time finding parts here in phx

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We have a couple of pick-n-pulls. I check with them regularly (weekly) online. For the traditional salvage yards I use Car-Part.com - Used Auto Parts Market. I mock search for a common part (axle housing, bumper, etc) to get a feel for where things are and new stock. A couple of local yards are pretty good working with me. They are all terrible over the phone.

What are you looking for. I'm headed out tomorrow in search of a couple of scissor jacks.
 
We have a couple of pick-n-pulls. I check with them regularly (weekly) online. For the traditional salvage yards I use Car-Part.com - Used Auto Parts Market. I mock search for a common part (axle housing, bumper, etc) to get a feel for where things are and new stock. A couple of local yards are pretty good working with me. They are all terrible over the phone.

What are you looking for. I'm headed out tomorrow in search of a couple of scissor jacks.

I need a rear window lock switch
all 4 ac vents
pass dashpad thats not cracked but i dont think any exist in AZ
rear seat headrests in grey

I appreciate you looking for me, i'll probably be in Tucson soon
 
I need a rear window lock switch
all 4 ac vents
pass dashpad thats not cracked but i dont think any exist in AZ
rear seat headrests in grey

I appreciate you looking for me, i'll probably be in Tucson soon

I know where I can get tan or red rear head rests if you were willing to recover them.

Dish pads that are not cracked are probably like unicorns. :lol: I have a spare one that is really ugly that I plan on attempting to recover. There are several YouTube videos that make me think it would be pretty easy after the pad is removed.

I may be able to find the lock switch. I may have a spare.

There are several vents on eBay. You would have to paint them. I may be able to get some red or tan ones.
 
Yeah ive seen those on ebay but they want 20 each. I was quoted 5 each at the yard but they were from a 2nd gen i couldnt see 1st gen being much more at the yard.

Thx dude i appreciate it

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