ok so Im going to break it down so I can include every detail.
The Problem:
First the engine will not rev under load past 2200 rpm.
It idles(in park) at about 1500 rpm, when I put it in drive it goes down to 1k rpm.
when the engine is cold and I put it in park I cant get it past 1500 rpm. If i try pushing the gas past that or all the way to the ground the needle on the tack starts jumping anywhere from under 1k to as high as 2000 rpm. at the same time a kind of popping or backfiring can be heard coming from the engine compartment.
When the engine warms up I can get it up to the 2200 rpm under load but only when I find a "sweet spot" in the throttle, that is if i push on the gas lightly and to a certain point. if I have it in park and find this "sweet spot" I can get it up to 5k rpm If I push the gas passed this "sweet spot" the rpms go down and I start to lose speed. needless to say I cant drive very fast and I am getting horrible gas millage 10 mpg or less.
What have I done:
The first thing i did trying to solve this was take it to me regular mechanic.
The tested the fuel pressure, that was fine. the dropped the entire exuast to make sure the cat wasn't clogged, that didn't change anything. they timed it found that was off and adjusted it and that seemed to help for a few days. they also took the truck to a tranny place and they decided it wasnt the tranny. they really couldnt figure it out.
Then just a few weeks ago I took it to the dealer figuring they might have a better handle on it cause the only work with toyotas. they said the injectors were ohming out of spec and that the MAFM/VAFM was not working and that I needed a new exhaust rounding out there repairs at $5200. I didn't take them up on that offer. since then I replaced the MAFM with another used Toyota one i got for $45 and with the help of my parental units got a set of re manufactured injectors and I paid the $300 to have them put in. guess what? nothing has changed in how the car drives.
Today braving 15 degree temps. I ran a self diagnostic using a paper clip. seemed to work ok. turned the key to ON and the OD OFF light started to flash. it flashed 6 times then paused then 2 more times and it just kept doing that. so I go to my repair manual(chilton) and try to look up what code that could be and I coundnt see anything that matched.
It may seem odd that the OD off light was flashing but the check engine light stayed on. i used the paper clip as a jumper wire between terminals te1 and e1. What does that mean?
I also tried to get some reading of the TPS. I wasnt able to get a feeler gauge to fit between the lever and screw since the throttle body is still attached to the engine but test the OHM between the VTA-e2 termonats both WOT and closed throttle I got normal reading and the same went with Vcc-e2.
tomorrow ill try this: "One final test, not listed in the FSM, would be to run the TPS shaft from idle to WOT and watch the VTA-E2 resistance and make sure it increases monotonically, no drop outs or dead spots. If you observe abrupt resistance changes, the TPS could have a burned area on one of the current tracks"
any other ideas?
you can email me also at [email protected] and if your a Twin cities resident and well equipped for this kinda stuff and willing to give me a hand let me know. so far I have been working with my dad back in AZ over the phone. he is a mechanical engineer but its limited what he can help with since he cant get his hands on the truck.
The Problem:
First the engine will not rev under load past 2200 rpm.
It idles(in park) at about 1500 rpm, when I put it in drive it goes down to 1k rpm.
when the engine is cold and I put it in park I cant get it past 1500 rpm. If i try pushing the gas past that or all the way to the ground the needle on the tack starts jumping anywhere from under 1k to as high as 2000 rpm. at the same time a kind of popping or backfiring can be heard coming from the engine compartment.
When the engine warms up I can get it up to the 2200 rpm under load but only when I find a "sweet spot" in the throttle, that is if i push on the gas lightly and to a certain point. if I have it in park and find this "sweet spot" I can get it up to 5k rpm If I push the gas passed this "sweet spot" the rpms go down and I start to lose speed. needless to say I cant drive very fast and I am getting horrible gas millage 10 mpg or less.
What have I done:
The first thing i did trying to solve this was take it to me regular mechanic.
The tested the fuel pressure, that was fine. the dropped the entire exuast to make sure the cat wasn't clogged, that didn't change anything. they timed it found that was off and adjusted it and that seemed to help for a few days. they also took the truck to a tranny place and they decided it wasnt the tranny. they really couldnt figure it out.
Then just a few weeks ago I took it to the dealer figuring they might have a better handle on it cause the only work with toyotas. they said the injectors were ohming out of spec and that the MAFM/VAFM was not working and that I needed a new exhaust rounding out there repairs at $5200. I didn't take them up on that offer. since then I replaced the MAFM with another used Toyota one i got for $45 and with the help of my parental units got a set of re manufactured injectors and I paid the $300 to have them put in. guess what? nothing has changed in how the car drives.
Today braving 15 degree temps. I ran a self diagnostic using a paper clip. seemed to work ok. turned the key to ON and the OD OFF light started to flash. it flashed 6 times then paused then 2 more times and it just kept doing that. so I go to my repair manual(chilton) and try to look up what code that could be and I coundnt see anything that matched.
It may seem odd that the OD off light was flashing but the check engine light stayed on. i used the paper clip as a jumper wire between terminals te1 and e1. What does that mean?
I also tried to get some reading of the TPS. I wasnt able to get a feeler gauge to fit between the lever and screw since the throttle body is still attached to the engine but test the OHM between the VTA-e2 termonats both WOT and closed throttle I got normal reading and the same went with Vcc-e2.
tomorrow ill try this: "One final test, not listed in the FSM, would be to run the TPS shaft from idle to WOT and watch the VTA-E2 resistance and make sure it increases monotonically, no drop outs or dead spots. If you observe abrupt resistance changes, the TPS could have a burned area on one of the current tracks"
any other ideas?
you can email me also at [email protected] and if your a Twin cities resident and well equipped for this kinda stuff and willing to give me a hand let me know. so far I have been working with my dad back in AZ over the phone. he is a mechanical engineer but its limited what he can help with since he cant get his hands on the truck.
