Gonna change timing belt soon, need advice...

[takumi]

As the title says, I'm gonna be changing the timing belt soon.

I just bought a used 1999 4runner limited with 243,XXX miles on it. The previous owner didn't know if the belt had ever been changed, so I'm gonna just gather up the parts and get started.

I need recommendations on what timing belt kit to buy. Also I have plenty of tools, but do I need any special tools to hold stuff in place while turning bolts, cams, pulleys etc?

Thanks for any suggestions. I have worked on cars in the past, but have never attempted to change a timing belt. I just wanna arm myself with the right complete kit, tools and as much knowledge as i can get.

 

[StreetCreeper]

A lot of people on here get the kit from Aircabinman on eBay. Top quality parts all in one kit.

 

[MandAtaco]

Stick with OEM parts, don't chance aftermaket junk. You can get complete "kits" on eBay that has everything you need, just search oem timing belt kit for 3.4l Toyota.

The only specialty tool youll need is something to hold the crank from turning. I used some flat stock, drilled a few holes in it and used 1/4" extensions to keep it from turning. Oh and a torque wrench that goes up to the crank bolt spec, can't remember what it is.

 

[habanero]

Crank bolt torque spec 217 ft lbs.


There is a company on Ebay selling a timing belt kit that says something like OEM parts. It is NOT Toyota parts. Someone I know recently fell for that one. It was cheap and the quality was too. The company was quick to take the parts back when the mistake was realized, but maybe you can avoid the hassle.

 

[takumi]

Thanks for the info. I will do a search for genuine OEM parts.

What about any special tools. Are there any special tools needed to hold stuff in place while removing stuff?

 

[Arnezie]

https://youtu.be/9Xv11NRc5Xg?list=UUrWBl9GZZedDUKZwnTyrTCQ

 

[azcat90]

I did this

I bought the Aisin TKT-025 kit from rockauto. I think the OEM water pump is Aisin also and the TB that it comes with is Mitsuboshi which seemed legit. Others might disagree. The kit also comes with a dry water pump gasket so you don't have to mess with goop to put on the new pump.

You will need a half inch torque wrench that will go up to 250 lbs for the crankshaft bolt - autozone loans them out. I also had a smaller torque wrench for all the other stuff.

You will also need to buy a new crankshaft bolt from Toyota since they are single use. Pick up a Toyota brand thermostat while you're at it since the after market ones are too different.

Has the vehicle been in the northeast? My crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft timing belt pulley were both rusted on the shaft.

I had to use a craftsman harmonizer puller kit and also a jaw puller that i borrowed from Autozone.

You will absolutely want to have ratcheting box wrenches in 10, 12 and 14 mm sizes.

I posted a few things during my struggles if you search on my username.

The safety dang video above helped a whole lot but they gloss over how difficult the compressor is to remove and put back, I unbolted the power steering pump which they did not and that helped a lot. Also, after you remove the radiator, tape a thick piece of cardboard to the inside of the AC coil so you don't keep dinging it up.

I bought a tool to brace the crankshaft pulley while I removed the crankshaft bolt and also torqued the new one to 217 lbs. Google KDS3900 - the nubs that came with it don't help - I went to Ace and bought a couple long bolts with nuts I could attach to it so it would hold the pulley. That worked but it would not hold the camshaft pulleys so I skipped changing the camshaft front seals - there are better tools out there for this.

Also, two things I did that helped me tremendously was to remove the hood and the hood latch at the start. It gave me a ton more light to work with in my garage and the latch was not sticking in my gut every time I leaned over the engine.

 

[csp]

I wonder if there were any existing threads on this subject?

 

[azcat90]

Yeah- probably like 200.

 

[Chrizzouse]

Bag and tag all the hardware location wise. As far as tools get your hands on a universal pully holding tool. Comes in handy when torqueing the crankshaft and keeping the camshafts in line when installing the belt.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Tons a stuff on the site. Here's my link with the tools I used.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/194291-crank-pulley-removal-timing-belt.html

 

[Chrizzouse]

Otc Universal pully holder fits without buying extra hardware from ace.

 

[Rock_Rat]

[MENTION=105680]takumi[/MENTION] BTW it's a good idea to soak the crank bolt one or two days. Change your crank and cam seals. ONLY USE OEM!! Everyone has already given you some good advice. If there's a local zoo nearby, rent a gorilla.

 

[houjames98765]

I will recommend you to buy parts in the Toyota dealership

You need METRIC tools for Japanese cars. If you don't have metric tools take it to service it cost $550 total price in the dealer. Before you do any thing calculate the price and your time. Timing belt kit cost $350 and over. also, go to car fax to check service history. I will recommend you to visit to your local Toyota dealer to check all service history. They have the records using your truck vin number.

 

[houjames98765]

Also I want to see the picture of your engine. My neighbor is a Toyota mechanic to evaluate.

 

[wslytoy]

Go buy 2 chain wrenches, take the chain off 1 & add it to the last link on the other chain wrench to make it longer... That way you can fit it around the crank pulley & you'll be able to break loose & re-install the crank pulley w/o a whole lot of trouble. That's what I did when I couldn't find reliable tool to hold the crank pulley.

 

[takumi]

I appreciate everyone's time that contributed to this thread.

Fortunately I have another 4runner (2000 SR5), so if I run into some problems during the timing belt replacement project, I can take a break and take my time putting it back together.

For me the most informative post was from azcat90 in post #7. It referenced part numbers as well as specif wrenches to buy and also pointed out I could get some useful tools at the local hardware store.

As far as what does it look like under the hood, well it.s a 3.4L, and although I did take it to the car wash and cleaned under the hood, it doesn't have that glossy clean look under the hood like my 2000 SR5 does.

Also I want to see the picture of your engine. My neighbor is a Toyota mechanic to evaluate.

 

[csp]

Also I want to see the picture of your engine. My neighbor is a Toyota mechanic to evaluate.

I'm curious what you think you're going to be able to "evaluate" from a picture of an engine.:doh:

 

[jeremyc74]

I bought the Aisin TKT-025 kit from rockauto. I think the OEM water pump is Aisin also and the TB that it comes with is Mitsuboshi which seemed legit. Others might disagree. The kit also comes with a dry water pump gasket so you don't have to mess with goop to put on the new pump.

You will need a half inch torque wrench that will go up to 250 lbs for the crankshaft bolt - autozone loans them out. I also had a smaller torque wrench for all the other stuff.

You will also need to buy a new crankshaft bolt from Toyota since they are single use. Pick up a Toyota brand thermostat while you're at it since the after market ones are too different.

Has the vehicle been in the northeast? My crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft timing belt pulley were both rusted on the shaft.

I had to use a craftsman harmonizer puller kit and also a jaw puller that i borrowed from Autozone.

You will absolutely want to have ratcheting box wrenches in 10, 12 and 14 mm sizes.

I posted a few things during my struggles if you search on my username.

The safety dang video above helped a whole lot but they gloss over how difficult the compressor is to remove and put back, I unbolted the power steering pump which they did not and that helped a lot. Also, after you remove the radiator, tape a thick piece of cardboard to the inside of the AC coil so you don't keep dinging it up.

I bought a tool to brace the crankshaft pulley while I removed the crankshaft bolt and also torqued the new one to 217 lbs. Google KDS3900 - the nubs that came with it don't help - I went to Ace and bought a couple long bolts with nuts I could attach to it so it would hold the pulley. That worked but it would not hold the camshaft pulleys so I skipped changing the camshaft front seals - there are better tools out there for this.

Also, two things I did that helped me tremendously was to remove the hood and the hood latch at the start. It gave me a ton more light to work with in my garage and the latch was not sticking in my gut every time I leaned over the engine.

I went with this same kit, and it's the OEM part. The original water pump has Aisin and Toyota in raised text on the casting. The replacement pump has Aisin on it, but the "Toyota" text has been ground flat.

I picked mine up from Rock Auto as well, but this looks like the same kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-025...434899722&sr=1-1&keywords=4runner+timing+belt

Note: The thermostat isn't included. You'd be crazy to not replace it while you're in there though, and after reading all the posts here about higher operating temps I'd stick with OEM and put the jiggle valve at 6 'oclock as the FSM instructs.

Also, I picked up the tensioner tool, which allows you to remove the belt without pulling the A/C compressor off. You can't replace the tensioner if you do it this way, but I haven't heard of anyone having issues with that. It's a judgment call. It probably saves two hours on the job.

Here's the tool:
Amazon.com: Schley (SCH97300) Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor: Automotive

I also picked up the tool to hold the crank. I figure I can always turn around and sell it on eBay if I get rid of the truck and don't need it.

Amazon.com: Schley Products 64400 - Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool - - Schley Products - 64400: Everything Else


Some of the online tutorials leave the radiator in place for this, but don't do it. It takes 5 minutes to get it out and it gives you a TON more room to work in there. And you don't run the risk of damaging the radiator. I was at 200k miles when I did mine so I replaced the radiator and all the hoses while I was in there.

 

[takumi]

Just wanna make sure I understand you correctly...

Although the kit you purchased came with the tensioner, you elected to get a tool to compress the stock tensioner on and not replace it?

Yeah I'm gonna replace the thermostat. also since the engine has 244,xxx miles on it, I would like to replace the camshaft seals and crankshaft seal, but I have not been able to find photos/how to and documentation on how to do that.

I went with this same kit, and it's the OEM part. The original water pump has Aisin and Toyota in raised text on the casting. The replacement pump has Aisin on it, but the "Toyota" text has been ground flat.

I picked mine up from Rock Auto as well, but this looks like the same kit:
Amazon.com: Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump: Automotive

Note: The thermostat isn't included. You'd be crazy to not replace it while you're in there though, and after reading all the posts here about higher operating temps I'd stick with OEM and put the jiggle valve at 6 'oclock as the FSM instructs.

Also, I picked up the tensioner tool, which allows you to remove the belt without pulling the A/C compressor off. You can't replace the tensioner if you do it this way, but I haven't heard of anyone having issues with that. It's a judgment call. It probably saves two hours on the job.

Here's the tool:
Amazon.com: Schley (SCH97300) Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor: Automotive

I also picked up the tool to hold the crank. I figure I can always turn around and sell it on eBay if I get rid of the truck and don't need it.

Amazon.com: Schley Products 64400 - Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool - - Schley Products - 64400: Everything Else


Some of the online tutorials leave the radiator in place for this, but don't do it. It takes 5 minutes to get it out and it gives you a TON more room to work in there. And you don't run the risk of damaging the radiator. I was at 200k miles when I did mine so I replaced the radiator and all the hoses while I was in there.