Goodyear Duratrac Issues

I also note that on Goodyear's Site.

Wrangler DuraTrac | Goodyear Tires

That when I enter the 4-Runner SR5 as my Vehicle, the site states "This doesn't fit your vehicle."

It then offers 4 other tires:
Fortera® TripleTred
Wrangler® SilentArmor
Wrangler® ST
Ultra Grip® Ice WRT SUV

Not sure why the Dura Trac is not considered compatible.
Charley

I have C range Duratracs. They had to be rebalanced once. I'm running them with 42lbs. I do notice they are very sensitive to the road surface. I sometimes feel a vibration at highway speeds, but it comes and goes. On some roads at speed, my tires feel a little unbalanced, then on the next section of road they feel fine at the same speed. Never experienced that before.
 
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I would not want E tires on a 4runner, way to stiff. .

I had 2 sets of E rated tires on my 4Runner,BFG AT's and KM2's,and loved them! Our 5th Gens ,especially with all the junk on mine are much heavier then your 4th Gen. though.

I bought D rated Duratracs now and after a month and a half of driving on them I'm having buyers remorse. IMO,not stiff enough sidewall and I miss my E-rated KM2's.
 
I had 2 sets of E rated tires on my 4Runner,BFG AT's and KM2's,and loved them! Our 5th Gens ,especially with all the junk on mine are much heavier then your 4th Gen. though.

I bought D rated Duratracs now and after a month and a half of driving on them I'm having buyers remorse. IMO,not stiff enough sidewall and I miss my E-rated KM2's.

Harper. Do you get better miles per gallon with the duratracs? are they better on street?
 
I would not want E tires on a 4runner, way to stiff.

Disagree. The poster has a 5th Gen which is heavier than your 4th. He already has his Shrockworks. Add gas, driver, and regular gear and he does not want C DuraTracs. And that is not even considering if he goes offroad, has additional passengers, etc.

Get the Es Charley.
 
I bought D rated Duratracs now and after a month and a half of driving on them I'm having buyers remorse. IMO,not stiff enough sidewall and I miss my E-rated KM2's.

Thanks for the feedback H7. You do have more weight than most and it is interesting that you can tell the difference. I certainly love the E265s on mine. I tried to assess the weight difference from changing the suspension components and adding the full BudBuilts and figured it is at least 200 pounds added to the truck. I'm sure your other mods really add up.

I think next season I am going to run the 255/80-17 KM2s in E on my old wheels.
 
I have stock size "E" rated on my 2011 Trail and sure like them much better than stock tires that came on the rig.

I just took them on a 2500 mile trip Oregon to Wyoming and back. Lots of 75mph driving and some nasty off-road mud conditions in Wyoming.

I sure do like them, didn't notice any change in gas usage and ride IMHO is better than the stock tires. The 5th Gen is a pretty heavy rig so "E" should be fine.
 
No problem with my e rated Duratracs. I ran them for 25K on my Tacoma never a problem there either with no noticable mileage drop. Get the e's much more versatile in my opinion: towing, off-roading, adding optional accessories (weight) etc... I also have the e's on my 99 Landcruiser only way to go!
 
I bought C Duratracs and so far I'm perfectly happy with C load. E load tires normally designed for big trucks like F-350. I would consider E load if I often drive over sharp rocks, but other than that I think C load is good enough for T4R. On 4Runners (at least on SR5) axle supports max of 3439 lbs as per manual, meaning that a tire should support1719.5lbs on full load. C load tire supports that on about 34 psi. C tires also a lighter than E tires which saves a little bit of fuel. The only thing I can't figure is what tire pressure I should use. I tried 44 psi and it looks like tire edges didn't touch pavement at all. 42 psi was a little bit better but still I could put about inch of a business card under the tire. I finally run on 40psi, but still not sure what pressure is the best.

Oh and since I start typing I wanted to say thank you to the folks who recommeneded me Duratracs, so far I'm pretty happy with Duratracs.
 
Harper. Do you get better miles per gallon with the duratracs? are they better on street?

Only about 1/2 mpg better and they are quieter on the streets but not as firm as I like.

I had a pretty sudden 2-3mpg drop after I came back from vacation this year and thought it was because the KM2's had almost 30k miles and were worn past the out wear bands on the treads. I got 17+mpg on the 4300k mile trip and then got home and it was 15mpg.They were also getting pretty loud and felt grippier so I thought they were the culprit and new tires(Duratracs) would bring it back up. Mpg's only improved about a 1/2 mpg so it wasn't the tires. Ran some BG fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the MAF and a couple of tanks later I was back up to around 17 1/2 mpg so I think I got a tank of bad gas somewhere or some weird anomaly.


Thanks for the feedback H7. You do have more weight than most and it is interesting that you can tell the difference. I certainly love the E265s on mine. I tried to assess the weight difference from changing the suspension components and adding the full BudBuilts and figured it is at least 200 pounds added to the truck. I'm sure your other mods really add up.

I think next season I am going to run the 255/80-17 KM2s in E on my old wheels.
I'm sure I have at least 5-600lbs over stock in mods but I haven't been on a scale to see my total weight.

IMO.....E-rated tires today, especially the AT and MT tires aren't really the super stiff 10 ply tires like they used to be as some think. I remember those old E-rated bias tires would practically look the same with no air in them they were so stiff. Most today are 3 ply that are as strong and can carry as much weight as 10 ply used to and thus the E-rating. When aired down they are the same as any tire and conform to rocks and such no problem. If you look at the specs on almost all the giant 40" and up true rock crawler tires and they are E-rated too and they don't make them that way to run on f350's hauling rocks either. It's because of the desired extra sidewall protection.

I have an extra set of 4th Gen Sport wheels and I'm going to keep my Duratracs and put them on them .Run the Duratracs in winters as they will probably be a great winter tire from reviews and buy another set of KM2's ,probably 34"'s next spring after I regear. I like the Duratracs but I just liked my KM2's better but that's just me. YMMV
 
Hey Harper, Questions 4 You

Hey Harper, Did you reconfig your computer/speedo for the Larger tire size? I have not done it yet, went to 285 KM2's and have been showing an average of 15. What realistic milage do you think the difference may be; compared to what it's showing. Also what PSI for HWY driving 45-50? I drive it fairly Hard, down shift manually when needed instead of waiting for it quite a often. Do you think I need to regear with 285's? your thoughts would be much appreciated. I get 18.5 average in my Dodge Cummins. I split Time driving the two. That Diesel has so much Torque/power being Chipped, the 4Runner feels like I need to Supercharge it. :hungry:
 
Hey Harper, Did you reconfig your computer/speedo for the Larger tire size? I have not done it yet, went to 285 KM2's and have been showing an average of 15. What realistic milage do you think the difference may be; compared to what it's showing. Also what PSI for HWY driving 45-50? I drive it fairly Hard, down shift manually when needed instead of waiting for it quite a often. Do you think I need to regear with 285's? your thoughts would be much appreciated. I get 18.5 average in my Dodge Cummins. I split Time driving the two. That Diesel has so much Torque/power being Chipped, the 4Runner feels like I need to Supercharge it. :hungry:
There is no way to reconfigure the ECU/speedo that I've ever heard. I have a Scangauge II plugged in all the time,sitting under the oem gauges, which shows MPH and MPG's though and is programmable. The 285's are 3.4% bigger then the oem tires which translates to about 3mph at 70mph. I read about ..5-.75 mpg more then the oem gauge. A Scangauge is invaluable if you ask me!

I kept my E-rated KM2's at 44-45 psi and tried running the D-rated Duratracs at 45 and felt they were'nt firm enough so bumped them up to 50psi. I can feel a difference in the sidewall flex around curves. Probably lower them back down in inclement weather.

I think going bigger then 33's would benefit the most by regearing with 4.56's. But it will probably bring back some of that low end peppiness lost by bigger tires. There
's alot of good reading over on the FJ forum on the subject.
 
I have the dura tracs and love them, no issues no vibrations, great dry and wet, snow track my best tire ever i went with the 285 70 17, is it possible that your wheel is bent or was it all the tires that required alot of weight? strange, probably the installer in my opinion, was it a rep shop, I had mine installed at discount.......
 

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