Got stuck, I really need new shoes for the Runner!!!

I was trying to post more pics of the situation but they are to big. But the real advice I need from you guys is if I decided to buy new tires and wheels, what is the best set-up I could fit without investing in a new suspension. I love the Konig Countersteer Wheels and nitto terras!!! Any suggestions???

The Nitto Terra Grapplers will be an improvement over your current tires, even more so it you go to a 17" rim - sorry I'm not much help on rims. While the Nitto's will be an improvement, if I was going to be off-road much I would search for tires that are a little more aggressive. I would also consider getting E-rated tires - they are more cut/puncture resistant and the sidewalls are a little stiffer.

Good road performance from your all terrain tires requires that the tread pattern of the tread have more closely spaced lugs and that the lugs are siped. These types of tires typically perform fairly well on the highway in both wet/dry conditions as well as providing the off-road performance you are wanting. They will have a little more tire slap/noise than a P metric tire but most find it a reasonable compromise for the increased performance. Goodyear Duratrac's are probably the most highly recommended tire of this type. I have personally had good luck w/ Mickey Thompson ATZ's. There are literally dozens of aggressive, siped, E rated all terrain tires to pick from in the most common sizes for the 4Runner. Others will chime in with their favorites.

David
 
You are once again speaking completely outside of your knowledge base. Off roaders have been airing down so long for muddy conditions it's considered step 1, just like rock crawling, just like sand. Your insistence that airing down tires won't improve traction in muddy conditions is just wrong. Your insistence that lugs filling w/ mud automatically result in a stuck vehicle is comical.

I've seen more than one tractor buried up the axle, some worse than that because their operators believed that keeping the tires turning and clearing the lugs was a recipe to freedom as they dug a hole to China. Its interesting that all the ATV's on the market come w/ very wide tires designed to operate at low pressure - these ATV's perform amazingly well in mud, even with the lugs completly caked w/ mud. I wonder why?????

I hope no one is foolish enough to follow your advice to not air down their tires because the trail conditions are muddy.

David

Thanks for your opinion. Very few things are absolute. I have aired down in certain conditions with great success and I have aired down and gotten stuck in certain conditions. Ground pressure for any off road situation is key to success. Yes, I have also witnessed tractors buried too. The key is "sometimes." The answer is not always "big 'ol tires dude.

Now, if you want to PM me and call people who follow my advice "foolish"
 
Thanks for your opinion. Very few things are absolute. I have aired down in certain conditions with great success and I have aired down and gotten stuck in certain conditions. Ground pressure for any off road situation is key to success. Yes, I have also witnessed tractors buried too. The key is "sometimes." The answer is not always "big 'ol tires dude.

Now, if you want to PM me and call people who follow my advice "foolish"

I never suggested "big 'ol tires dude" (this from the person that is suggesting I look at tractor tires as an example) - if you'll remember, I'm the guy that thinks the factory sized 265/75R17 is the ideal compromise for a T4R.

Airing down in mud works - really well. I'm done with the PM's with you. Your advice to not air down is foolish. As I said before in PM's, on a great many subjects you provide really solid advice - this isn't one of them.

David
 
I never suggested "big 'ol tires dude" (this from the person that is suggesting I look at tractor tires as an example) - if you'll remember, I'm the guy that thinks the factory sized 265/75R17 is the ideal compromise for a T4R.

Airing down in mud works - really well. I'm done with the PM's with you. Your advice to not air down is foolish. As I said before in PM's, on a great many subjects you provide really solid advice - this isn't one of them.

David

I will be sure to remember that Bubba. Quick question: what is the difference between "airing down" a 265/70 and running a wider "Big 'ol tire?"
 
what is the best set-up I could fit without investing in a new suspension.
Best setup for what?

Best for where you were stuck today? Pretty much any MT on a 17" rim. Of course you give up a lot in terms of on road handling, comfort, noise, MPGs.

Best for going places like that often, but spending most time on road? A more aggressive LT AT tire on a 17" rim.

Best for spending 99% of your time on road, and once in a while encountering some mud? A P metric AT tire on a 17" rim.

About the only constant is ditching the 20" rims, as they have no use on this vehicle other than aesthetics.
 
Agreed. When you have a firm road bed underneath, it's an entirely different situation.

David

OK, so it doesn't always help.

A statement I would agree with is that aired down is almost always the best way to approach a substantial offroading excursion since it helps in more conditions than not.

The icy example I gave occurred when arriving at snowy altitude late at night and driving a couple of miles off the highway to a favorite spot before going back to the highway in the morning to get to the main off pavement destination where, of course, the first move was to air down.
 
I will be sure to remember that Bubba. Quick question: what is the difference between "airing down" a 265/70 and running a wider "Big 'ol tire?"

You are really comical. I don't have your background in hydraulics, so I'm sure I'm not qualified to answer...

Have you ever admitted to being wrong on this forum? I mean publicly, not just in PM's?

David
 
You are really comical. I don't have your background in hydraulics, so I'm sure I'm not qualified to answer...

Have you ever admitted to being wrong on this forum? I mean publicly, not just in PM's?

David
Yes, more times than I care to admit and I think they were most posts and few pm's. The answer of course is no difference. Just getting more square inches on the ground.
I will tell you though that my time here is up. People like you, who know everything yet can prove nothing other than "Well it worked for me" or "My mechanic told me" or "My grandaddy did it this way" crap. No science, physics mathematics or even common sense to back it up. But I guess because you believe it makes it right huh? There have been several good knowledgable guys come through here but did not come back because of idiots posting the same 'ol jibberish as you do.. Yes I have been
wrong before and freely admit it. I have helped, I think, many people in the past few years but I am done here. Congratulations, you are the proverbial straw that broke the camel's back.

I will check my pm's for a few days if anyone has any questions. Many of you have my number and email so if you need anything just yell.
To the rest of you - just ask this guy since he apparently knows everything about machines.
 
Yes, more times than I care to admit and I think they were most posts and few pm's. The answer of course is no difference. Just getting more square inches on the ground.
I will tell you though that my time here is up. People like you, who know everything yet can prove nothing other than "Well it worked for me" or "My mechanic told me" or "My grandaddy did it this way" crap. No science, physics mathematics or even common sense to back it up. But I guess because you believe it makes it right huh? There have been several good knowledgable guys come through here but did not come back because of idiots posting the same 'ol jibberish as you do.. Yes I have been
wrong before and freely admit it. I have helped, I think, many people in the past few years but I am done here. Congratulations, you are the proverbial straw that broke the camel's back.

I will check my pm's for a few days if anyone has any questions. Many of you have my number and email so if you need anything just yell.
To the rest of you - just ask this guy since he apparently knows everything about machines.

Greg,

I have touched on a little of the physics of why airing tires down works. You aren't looking to discuss it - you are looking to shout me down. I hate to be the one to point it out again, but if you think there is no difference between a wider tire at full pressure and a smaller tire aired down you really have NO CONCEPT of the full advantages of airing down.

When you air a tire down you don't just gain a few more square inches. Although you have to be careful how far you go w/o bead locks, you can gain up to 2.5 X the contact area. As a general safe rule, you can easily double your contact area. You can't begin to equal this difference in surface area just by upsizing the tires. Going from factory tire size up to 35's (which is considered by most to be the upper limit of what is possible with a lot of body lift and hacking) only gains about a 25% increase in surface area. As long as you are not limited by ground clearance, a factory tire size properly deflated will have significantly better ground traction than a similar 35" tire running at street pressure (assuming both tires have the same tread pattern).

But that's really only 1/2 the benefit to airing down (actually a little less). When you air down the tires they now conform to bumps, ruts and other surface irregularities. Instead of riding up on these irregularities and removing significant portions of the tire from contact, the tire now wraps around the irregularity uses it to help propel the vehicle instead of it acting as a traction breaker.

Finally, airing down tires generally significantly improves their resistance to punctures and cuts as it lowers the pressure that damaging rocks, thorns, etc. are applying their damage with. The weight of the vehicle is distributed over double the contact patch, so the pressure per square inch is 1/2 what it would be inflated and the tire will wrap around instead of riding up on sharp rock edges, etc.

As I have previously stated, I have yet to see a situation where deflating tires doesn't significantly improve off road traction. I'm sure if you or anyone else wants to sift through the pepper looking for fly poop you can find a scenario where it doesn't help, but for 99+% of off-road situations its the right call. If you want to pontificate about theory and demean others about their lack of understanding of the science behind the theory it is helpful to actually know the theory. When it comes time to actually apply the theory, there is no substitute for experience.

Sorry this has triggered some sort of tipping point for you. I haven't done anything to you other than disagree with you. This is a public forum to discuss topics related T4R, I'm using the media as intended. If I may be so bold, you may find the forum (and others) more enjoyable if you didn't insist on being the incontrovertible expert in every subject, particularly those where you don't seem to have even a rudimentary understanding.

Regards,

David
 
Admittedly not a common scenario, but it's presented itself a few times. A dirt road with icy tracks and snow in the middle that periodically scrapes the undercarriage. Theoretically, the higher pressure helps traction but, ignoring that, the extra half an inch of ground clearance definitely does.

While somewhat related, traction and ground clearance are really separate issues and doesn't invalidate his point of view about airing down.

He stated:

"I have yet to find a situation that airing down a tire did not offer significantly better traction off-road than the same tire at street pressure."
 
While somewhat related, traction and ground clearance are really separate issues and doesn't invalidate his point of view about airing down.

He stated:

"I have yet to find a situation that airing down a tire did not offer significantly better traction off-road than the same tire at street pressure."

We already agreed that when the underlying road bed is firm, the air pressure/ traction story changes.

As far as the issues being separate -- functionally, all I care about (and presumably everyone else) is what tire properties help or hinder in keeping the truck moving. Reduced ground clearance is an inseparable component of airing down that can affect net traction. It's good testimony to the greater benefits of airing down, but it's an inseparable component nonetheless.
 
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Getting new tires is the best mod you can do to your truck. I have the Goodyear Silent Armors. A lot of people on here swear by the Goodyear Duratracs

I just got the Silent Armors. They are really highly rated on Tirerack. Maybe the shop not balancing them right the first time and almost balancing them completely right the 2nd time (@#$%) has negatively impacted my opinion of them, but I can't say I'm head over heels for them at the moment.

They feel a lot heavier than the stock Duelers (listed as 5lbs heavier/tire). The vehicle requires noticeably more throttle to accelerate "normally" and I'm pretty much out of Eco with anything more than the absolute slightest acceleration. I expected some difference, but I think I underestimated how much different they would be on the road... especially given the Tirerack ratings. The Duelers are rated as absolute shit on Tirerack, but I always found them quite good for on-road. They weren't loud, mileage was good, did well in the wet, did well in snow. We had some crazy downpour today and I felt quite a lot of hydroplaning in the Silent Armors. The Silent Armors basically kick ass in all the Tirerack ratings, but my person, limited, opinion is that they compromise the on road stuff a lot more than the ratings would imply. They do make the truck feel more planted. I'm sure they are great off road, which I'll hopefully test out in 3 weeks, but I think the Tirerack ratings might have a case of stock=sucks, what-i-bought=awesome.

Anyway, the moral of the story is to really think about what you are going to be using the truck on a daily basis. The 4Runner is not my primary vehicle, so I'm sure I'll adapt to the differences and love them when I'm going everywhere my friend's CJ7 is in absolute luxury compared to him, but if I was putting 15k miles a year on it like I used to, I'd definitely think twice about going to an aggressive A/T or M/T.

The silent armors do look great, though. Haha





 
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toyota out to be ashamed of the crap tires they put on their " 4x4" trucks from the factory floor, I know i know, over head, the tires that came on my 12 taco were crap like total crap, over on tacomaworld we call them dungflops..... they lasted 5000 miles before I blew out two of them in a week.... I went with a set of Hankook DanaPro ATM's
have twenty thousand miles on them so far and they are very good in semi deep mud, but where they really excell is gravel and snow. Puts the old school out dated tech of the BFG AT to shame.. .
but really toyota should try just a little harder... or knock down the price tage 500 bucks and let you bring in your own the day you buy it
 
but really toyota should try just a little harder... or knock down the price tage 500 bucks and let you bring in your own the day you buy it

Dealer will do that. Lots here have done exactly what you describe.

There are several factors of why Toyota fits the tires they do. First, people that really want all terrain tires are in the vast minority. My 4runner is the only one of 4 in my neighborhood that isn't driven by a middle aged mom. Theirs are always spotless. The weight, noise, and fuel economy downsides aren't worth the extra capability for a majority of buyers. Second, those that want A/T tires probably would want to pick their own anyway. Some want M/T, some want to upsize, some want sand, some want rock. You can't please everyone and pleasing the fringe usually costs you sales. Lastly, gas mileage would plunge. Most of us are willing to compromise fuel economy for capability, but CAFE and buyers do care about fuel economy.
 
I understand all of that, and with that being said, Toyota is selling supposed " quality" trucks. Even if my truck did not come with a " real AT" tire I still expect to get more then 5000 miles out of the ones that it comes on. 2 blow outs in one week from the cheap dunlops on my new tacoma....
it was the same way on my new subaru barely got 15 k out of the tires before they were worthless........ I get the upgrade factor, I am not asking for a gnar gnar tire, just somethign that works, dont sell me something with the same tred as the carolla next door on a 4x4
just my 2 cents
 
What I did to the wife's LE is put a spacer up front and put BFG 285 TA/KO's on 17" FJ Cruiser steelies.

I like the BFG's. They're load rated D, so they have a stupid long life on most trucks/SUVs (I got about 65k miles on a much heavier Sierra). They have heavy duty reinforced sidewalls. The tread is great in everything I've thrown at them from rain to snow to gravel and deep mud... and they're the perfect balance of an aggressive tread and reasonable fuel econ and road noise on the highway.

BTW, I typically run my 4Runners about 30-40 miles a week down dirt roads and mud trails on my property.
 
I understand all of that, and with that being said, Toyota is selling supposed " quality" trucks. Even if my truck did not come with a " real AT" tire I still expect to get more then 5000 miles out of the ones that it comes on. 2 blow outs in one week from the cheap dunlops on my new tacoma....
it was the same way on my new subaru barely got 15 k out of the tires before they were worthless........ I get the upgrade factor, I am not asking for a gnar gnar tire, just somethign that works, dont sell me something with the same tred as the carolla next door on a 4x4
just my 2 cents

I got 36k on my Bridgestones and replaced them before they needed replaced (probably had another 10k in them, but I wanted new for my offroading trip and this winter). They were completely passable for the 3 winters and dozen offroad trips I had them. I wouldn't say they are great, but they have been perfectly adequate. My dad is still on the stock tires on his TRD Off Road Tacoma with no complaints. He is certainly harder on his truck than I am on my 4Runner.
 
I got 36k on my Bridgestones and replaced them before they needed replaced (probably had another 10k in them, but I wanted new for my offroading trip and this winter). They were completely passable for the 3 winters and dozen offroad trips I had them. I wouldn't say they are great, but they have been perfectly adequate.

I just replaced my Dunlop Grandtreks at 38,000 miles. They were adequate and wore evenly with rotations at each service. The definitely had many more useful miles in them, but I was dying to upgrade to Bilsteins and figured that would be the time to get new tires also.
I chose GY SAs because I had a set on my 02 dodge ram and they did a great job on and off-road (muddy construction sites). So far I like the way they ride on my 4runner. Hopefully I'll get them in the mud and on a trail soon.
The reality is I'm a working stiff who commutes everyday to put food on the table and shoes on my kids' feet, but at least I have a truck and tires that give me some options. . .
 

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