Got to really test both the E load and C load BFG KO2's

az4runner02

New member
Thanks to discount tire I got ro ride on the E load for almost a month while they ordered the C range. They then had to order a couple more C load tires as I must have gotten a couple of bad tires and had some shake so its been a long haul to get to were I am now. So figured I would share my experience between the 2 very different set of tires. The E load set was alot firmer and it brought out creaks and rattles that I never had on my truck which is a 2008 Sport V8. At 7.7 pounds heavier per tire it also cut into the power as well. It still road well on the highway but at slower speeds it was way to firm. After getting the few bad tires worked out I am overjoyed at how great the truck drives with the C range. Alot less rattles and the power gains between the 2 different sets are very noticable. I also had removed my spacers and put new rims from a 2016 TE for $300 and I and super happy with it now. For 120,000 miles its pretty clean and hard to believe its a 9 year old truck and will be around for years to come.
 

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Thanks for sharing your experiences. I personally just went with some P-rated Toyo ATIIs in stock size. Since my 4Runner spends 98% of it's time on tar, it was the better choice for me. I haven't noticed any negative effects yet as far as mpg or power are concerned.
 
And I thought the squeaks and rattles were bad with my P-rated tires. I'd hate to see how bad it is with load range E tires. :hiding:
 
I can attest to how awesome the c-rated BFG KO2's are. Previously I had Cooper AT3 discoverers, and the BF's ride better and are quieter by a longshot. 99%road queen, with the occasional trail ride.
 
I just ordered E rated yesterday and now I'm second guessing. Only problem is they only come in E rated in the 18s. I would have to pick a different tire.


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I just ordered E rated yesterday and now I'm second guessing. Only problem is they only come in E rated in the 18s. I would have to pick a different tire.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ive been running 265/60/18 E load ko2's for 30k miles now, probably got another 10k left in them. they are good tires, but yes heavy, and im not sure i would get E load again. infact, like you stated they only come in E for 18's, so im 99% set on going to 17's with the C load ko2s when these are done.

like someone said above, i'd like to hear from someone running C load ko2's who goes wheeling, because i'd like to hear more about their durability on rocky-ish type trails. i'm sure they are fine though.
 
What's the difference in sidewall durability against rocks/thorns/etc?

Sure the durability of the 10 ply sidewall compared to the 6 is substaintial. However I previously ran the Duratrac's in a C load and knocked out some rocky trails and never had a flat. I am confident these will be fine but only time will tell. I didn't buy the certs because I have never used a single one in the past.
 
ive been running 265/60/18 E load ko2's for 30k miles now, probably got another 10k left in them. they are good tires, but yes heavy, and im not sure i would get E load again. infact, like you stated they only come in E for 18's, so im 99% set on going to 17's with the C load ko2s when these are done.

like someone said above, i'd like to hear from someone running C load ko2's who goes wheeling, because i'd like to hear more about their durability on rocky-ish type trails. i'm sure they are fine though.

Wow I would expect at least another 15K miles, do you have alot of extra weight on your truck? You would be suprised how much power they are cuting into as well.
 
I just ordered E rated yesterday and now I'm second guessing. Only problem is they only come in E rated in the 18s. I would have to pick a different tire.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am in no way discouraging anyone from going with the E load. I just figured I would share the experience with everyone since I was able to spend time with both sets. I hope they work out for you so please follow up with your initial impression.
 
ive been running 265/60/18 E load ko2's for 30k miles now, probably got another 10k left in them. they are good tires, but yes heavy, and im not sure i would get E load again. infact, like you stated they only come in E for 18's, so im 99% set on going to 17's with the C load ko2s when these are done.

like someone said above, i'd like to hear from someone running C load ko2's who goes wheeling, because i'd like to hear more about their durability on rocky-ish type trails. i'm sure they are fine though.

Our 5th gen is rocking the C's. They are nice and I haven't had any trouble. We run between 18-20psi when wheeling. BFG actually recommended 20 so I try to keep it there on rocks, 18 in sand. We go to Rausch Creek and took one weekend out to the cove in Gore VA, for reference on the rockiness.
 
I love my C load KO2s in 265/70-17. Never tried the E's but the C's with the bilstein 5100 provide a very nice ride on my mostly stock 08 SR5. I think my mileage dropped a little from the P rated Michelins I had before, but overall I like them quite a lot. Also, they have done very very well this winter here in Vermont on a variety of snow/slush/ice.
 
Sure the durability of the 10 ply sidewall compared to the 6 is substaintial. However I previously ran the Duratrac's in a C load and knocked out some rocky trails and never had a flat. I am confident these will be fine but only time will tell. I didn't buy the certs because I have never used a single one in the past.

I believe the sidewalls are the same (usually 2 ply). The 10 vs 6 ply is referring to the tread area, and that is simply an old measuring standard, there aren't actually 10 plys.

See here
Tire Tech Information - Load Range / Ply Rating Identification

That's not to say all sidewalls are equal. Duratracs supposedly are thin, where as others tout Kevlar.
 
Well... this thread hit me at just the right time. I ran the 265/70/17 KO2s on my previous 4Runner. I was going to try the 275/65/18 on the new 4Runner and am chickening out on the E rating. I just called DT to change my order to Duratracs.

My off-roading is mostly sand, mud, and jobsites. Very few rocks; just when I visit Georgia.
 
Wow I would expect at least another 15K miles, do you have alot of extra weight on your truck? You would be suprised how much power they are cuting into as well.

no extra weight, i do have 18x9 pro comp wheels though so my wheel/tire combo is pretty heavy. yeah i could probably go another 15k, but im eager to get a new wheel/tire combo and hopefully get better mpg. right now i get 18.
 
Well... this thread hit me at just the right time. I ran the 265/70/17 KO2s on my previous 4Runner. I was going to try the 275/65/18 on the new 4Runner and am chickening out on the E rating. I just called DT to change my order to Duratracs.

My off-roading is mostly sand, mud, and jobsites. Very few rocks; just when I visit Georgia.

Aren't they D rating?
 
Important question to ask: What PSI were you running with both set ups?

I've had LR D and LR E. E was definitely heavier duty/firmer; however, running the PSI a few pounds lower made all the difference. Most shops will fill up a LR E to 42-45PSI, which is way too much for a 4Runner. You want to be around 32-33PSI.
 
If you want comfort, run the tires at 32-35 psi. If you want good mpg with an E-rated tire, you'll need to run it up to 40-45 psi. The reason is the stiffer sidewall. Here's the deal:

The amount of sidewall flex is determined by the tire pressure. Doesn't matter if it's a P-rated or E-rated tire, the flex will be about the same. No tire sidewall is stiff enough to stand on it's own. The internal air pressure is what holds it up.

However, for a given amount of flex, the amount of heat loss is related to sidewall stiffness. At the same tire pressure (and thus same flex), the stiffer sidewall will heat up more and cost you mileage. To get the heat losses of an E-rated tire down to match a P-rated tire, you need to air up the E-rated tire more to reduce flex and resultant sidewall heating.
 

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