Gound Clearance with 2-3 inch lift

Thanks Rick and Jetboy...thats the information I was looking for.

Amazing the non-answers the rest of the people will give you here. Especially the ones that have the setup I'm interested in and would rather just post nonsense rather than just helping a fellow T4R'er out and take a tape measure to the front.

PS. those woods trails are tight but not a rock to be seen :P throw in basketball size rocks, 30-40 degree incline, and 2-3 foot ruts that snake through the whole thing and welcome to early 1900's AZ mine roads.

I can tell you that running the trails around Southern Nevada/California (tons of early mine trails) my stock front skid would scrape fairly often, after a 3/2 lift I never scraped on any of those trails again. In fact, I have only slightly scraped once since the lift due to an extremely rutted out trail. A 2.5-3" lift seems to be the sweet spot for our trucks in the southwest, much more enjoyable now.
 
I have no numbers for you, but the trails I run like the Rubicon... I'm running a 3" lift, lots of armor, and I run on 305/70/17s. I don't think I'd want to run any other way, but I push it harder than many in a 5th gen just because I like to. I'm at the limit for the CVs. I don't have a diff drop (makes nearly 0 difference but lowers skid even more). I smack rocks regularly with my skids and use them all. The newest design of the RCI seems to be better than 1st gen I have since the y-pipe skid is trashed on mine. If I was doing it over I would seriously consider budbuilts more just for the completely flat bottom. I have no breakover numbers for you but I will argue with anybody that I run the most aggressive approach and departure angles yet designed. A lift, good sliders and skids will probably work for the trails you run, but I don't know AZ wheeling like the folks that live there!
 
...I'm running a 3" lift, lots of armor, and I run on 305/70/17s. I don't think I'd want to run any other way...I'm at the limit for the CVs. I don't have a diff drop (makes nearly 0 difference but lowers skid even more).

...and this gentlemen is why the "sweet spot" is at 3" on the 5th gen 4Runner. CV angles. If you want to run the harder trails then bite the bullet, do the mods (inner fender, BMC, UCA's, regearing, etc) to run the biggest tire you can fit under there in addition to skids. If you don't want to do what Ben has done then quit whining and run easier trails. Sure, lifting a few inches helps but that is no substitute for larger diameter tires. There is a law of diminishing returns though where stuffing a larger diameter tire under there needs to be weighed with additional performance gains and of course the cost factor. It's just like anything else - you can go as big as your wallet.
 
...and this gentlemen is why the "sweet spot" is at 3" on the 5th gen 4Runner. CV angles. If you want to run the harder trails then bite the bullet, do the mods (inner fender, BMC, UCA's, regearing, etc) to run the biggest tire you can fit under there in addition to skids. If you don't want to do what Ben has done then quit whining and run easier trails. Sure, lifting a few inches helps but that is no substitute for larger diameter tires. There is a law of diminishing returns though where stuffing a larger diameter tire under there needs to be weighed with additional performance gains and of course the cost factor. It's just like anything else - you can go as big as your wallet.

Yep. I tested the theory too. Decided to try out 3.5" of lift and replaced both CV boots on my rig as a result. I think I did about 2k miles before they went POP. Super fun job too. Stuff smells like... :popcorn:... in a drop toilet. Really the 3.5" looked cooler to me, but I kinda like not doing the boots better than doing the boots, ya know?
 
Amazing the non-answers the rest of the people will give you here. Especially the ones that have the setup I'm interested in and would rather just post nonsense rather than just helping a fellow T4R'er out and take a tape measure to the front.

PS. those woods trails are tight but not a rock to be seen :P throw in basketball size rocks, 30-40 degree incline, and 2-3 foot ruts that snake through the whole thing and welcome to early 1900's AZ mine roads.

Happy to be of no help. I made the point in here a few weeks ago that I don't feel like walking in front of my rig with a tape measure to check for clearance. I think of it as the brain to accelerator interface. If I don't think it'll go there I don't take it there. If I think the clearance will be close I creep it over to reduce suspension flex and possible skid impact. I also try to roll the tires over taller rocks instead of the diff, or I straddle the ruts.

Yes, I now have a full set of skids, but I really haven't had a chance to test them since install, and they haven't impacted my decision making on whether I think it will go or not. The fact that they are there doesn't mean I am simply going to bash them because I can. They are simply more insurance to minimize damage if I have a brain fart. Read my sig line. 2" lift and 265 tires, so I'm NOT equipped like you are seeking. I do know what rocks look like. I did Moab in April of this year BEFORE I installed the skids. No, I didn't do the more challenging trails because I didn't want to challenge my daily driver almost 2,000 miles from home in the middle of a 4 week trip.

If you're worried about dragging bottom get a good set of skids for better protection. If you want the lift, by all means get that. They will cost about the same depending on what you go with. But the rocks are still going to look like basketball size, and an extra 1 or 2" of clearance will not make your rig hover over them like they weren't there anymore. :wink2:
 
Hear that 3wb? I believe JCPenney is having a sale. They have a parking spot right up front reserved for your T4R Mall Crawler Edition. Careful of them curbs! :lookout:

:wink2:
 
...and this gentlemen is why the "sweet spot" is at 3" on the 5th gen 4Runner. CV angles. If you want to run the harder trails then bite the bullet, do the mods (inner fender, BMC, UCA's, regearing, etc) to run the biggest tire you can fit under there in addition to skids. If you don't want to do what Ben has done then quit whining and run easier trails. Sure, lifting a few inches helps but that is no substitute for larger diameter tires. There is a law of diminishing returns though where stuffing a larger diameter tire under there needs to be weighed with additional performance gains and of course the cost factor. It's just like anything else - you can go as big as your wallet.

Well, yeah.

I think that the "ideal" lift for the truck would be 4.5", but the drivetrain can't handle it, and with greater articulation you may not be able to stuff the tires.

I'm thinking about getting an old XJ and cutting up the fenders and making a rock humper, probably cheaper than re-engineering a truck that wasn't meant to be lifted beyond the parameters you describe.
 
Amazing the non-answers the rest of the people will give you here. Especially the ones that have the setup I'm interested in and would rather just post nonsense rather than just helping a fellow T4R'er out and take a tape measure to the front.

Uh, yeah--it's amazing, but it's the nature of this forum. We all know what we can do if we don't like it, don't we?
 
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Been There Done That , in Moab i never felt the 4runners size (was not running lots of trails howevER) but out in the woods is a different story and you do appreciate how the earlier gens would fit into tight spaces better.....obvious trade off for interior room, comfort etc.
 

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in Moab i never felt the 4runners size (was not running lots of trails howevER) but out in the woods is a different story and you do appreciate how the earlier gens would fit into tight spaces better.....obvious trade off for interior room, comfort etc.
There are a few tight spots
DSCN0752.jpg
 
Happy to be of no help. I made the point in here a few weeks ago that I don't feel like walking in front of my rig with a tape measure to check for clearance. I think of it as the brain to accelerator interface. If I don't think it'll go there I don't take it there. If I think the clearance will be close I creep it over to reduce suspension flex and possible skid impact. I also try to roll the tires over taller rocks instead of the diff, or I straddle the ruts.



Yes, I now have a full set of skids, but I really haven't had a chance to test them since install, and they haven't impacted my decision making on whether I think it will go or not. The fact that they are there doesn't mean I am simply going to bash them because I can. They are simply more insurance to minimize damage if I have a brain fart.


^^^^ This pretty much sums up my thoughts. I get to wheel with some professional drivers and instructors a fair amount. Two things that always stick out in my mind that they have told me are "drive as fast as necessary and as slow as possible" and "armor is not a substitute for poor driving."
 
You might enjoy this trip down memory lane....
The 2010 Trail Edition was tested by Toyota on the Rubicon Trail, in stock form.
2010 Toyota 4Runner Rubicon Trail First Drive

"As our entourage began the mighty Rubicon Trail, we couldn't help but wonder what the next few days had in store for the 4Runners and the Toyota team. Well, three days later, the stock 4Runners emerged from the Rubicon with only nicks and scrapes and no driveline damage whatsoever"....
 
You might enjoy this trip down memory lane....
The 2010 Trail Edition was tested by Toyota on the Rubicon Trail, in stock form.
2010 Toyota 4Runner Rubicon Trail First Drive

"As our entourage began the mighty Rubicon Trail, we couldn't help but wonder what the next few days had in store for the 4Runners and the Toyota team. Well, three days later, the stock 4Runners emerged from the Rubicon with only nicks and scrapes and no driveline damage whatsoever"....
I still think that article is very misleading. No actual 4r owner would attempt that in a stock rig without a lift, tires, and lots of armor. But, I've never run the Rubicon and have been told it can be done, so can only say that I still doubt it is realistic without coming out looking like a raisin.
 
03_4x4Runner knows where I'm coming from.

Other answers have not been helpful :P. I guess what I'm saying is for the dirt roads I usually travel I know the sweet spot for ground clearance is the 11-11.5 range. This allows me to pick the best lines and not overly worry about every soccer-basketball size rock that is awkwardly placed in my line.

I've had wranglers in the past with 2.5-4 inch lifts and 35's. Wranglers have solid front ends....4runners have independent. I haven't lifted a independent front end vehicle yet...I assume that a lift changes the front ground clearance alone (before taking into account larger tires). And since its harder to fit significantly larger tires under a lifted 4runner (as opposed to a wrangler) I'm having a hard time estimating what the gain in clearance would be. Hence the question what a 2-3 inch Icon, SS, Toytec or other complete (nonspacer) with 275/70 285/75 17's will net me up front.

I really don't think this is a silly question. Just looking for an actual measurement from someone who has one of these setups...tons out there I know! This will help me determine the benefit to cost of this decision.


This is a very silly question, Just do the math. It's that simple.

Ground clearance don't mean squat in most situations. Approach, departure and breakover are what matter and much of this depends on your bumpers... A lift will help significantly. 3" is night and day on moderate trails. Scrapes will always happen.

In my experience. Gas tank skid is a must have as well as rear LCA bracket skids (at least one on the passenger side). The gas tank skid pretty much covers the drivers side.
 
Hear that 3wb? I believe JCPenney is having a sale. They have a parking spot right up front reserved for your T4R Mall Crawler Edition. Careful of them curbs! :lookout:

:wink2:

Easy now, don't start a turf war, THE MALLS ARE FOR US LIMITED OWNERS.
:smashputer:
 

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