So I've been doing it wrong all this time.... thanks :hunter:
I have no idea what kinda grease I've been using. All I know is it doesn't taste like bacon grease.....
My first oil change & lub is coming up on my Gen3 - I bought AMSOIL DOMINATOR Synthetic Racing Grease NLGI#2, for one brand-fits-all.
Amsoil - Synthetic Heavy Greases
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MSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Heavy-Duty Moly Grease – EP NLGI 1, NLGI 2
Moly Grease: AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty EP NLGI 1, 2
Combines a Calcium-Sulfonate Complex Thickener and Proprietary Synthetic Polymeric Technology for Enhanced Extreme-Pressure (EP) Performance
Moly-Fortified to Meet Caterpillar’s 5% Moly Requirements for Bushing and Pin Applications
Resists Pound Out and Water Washout in Heavy Equipment
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Woody
Lubrication: Is grease just grease? [Archive] - Lawn Service Forum
The whole "never mix grease of different types" is very valid. But, what thye are talking about is mixing grease containing a LITHIUM soap with a grease containing a SODIUM soap. I haven't seen a sodium soap based grease in more than 20 years (at least). Everything I have seen in recent times is lithium soap based.
Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2), or "moly" for short, is an outstanding dry-film lubricant. It has a coeffecient of friction nearly identical to (or sometimes better than) Teflon, WHITHOUT all of the problems associated with Teflon (and there are so many with Teflon that it would take a near encyclopedia sized post to even begin discussing it). Moly also works VERY well as an extreme pressure lubricant (something Teflon can't do), and so is added to "EP", or Extreme Pressure greases. The problem is that nearly all EP greases are for LOW SPEED applications. This means they function well on things like pivot points and such (most zerks on a mower), but function rather poorly on high speed items, like spindles or wheel bearings on cars. By the same token, multi-purpose greases usually perform well with higher speed uses, but fail to give extreme pressure performance in low speed applications.
Personally, I have found ONE grease that is truly a "one grease for everything". It even exceeds the Ford specification for wheel bearings on disk brake equipped cars (Ford M1C75B) WITHOUT the addition of molybdenum. This is quite a task, and is the only grease in the world (that I know of) that can do this. It works outstanding at low and high temperatures, under extreme pressure applications, low and high speeds, etc. This grease is Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease.
Once my currently used grease runs out (and it is about out), I will be switching to the Amsoil Series 2000 grease. While not an Amsoil representative or affiliate, I do highly recommend this product.
Amsoil Series 2000 (
AMSOIL - 404)
hardboiled
I believe Amsoils leaves the moly out of the wheel bearing grease because of its affinity to hold heat. As you said Woody, thats better suited for high load low speed uses. U-joints, Fifth wheels, slack adjusters. I use the 2000 racing grease also,good grease for trimmer heads. Good resistance to wash out, too.
drayb307
,
Mucho Thanks for all the input guys!!! I had purchased some "Slick 50 One Grease" and was having second thoughts about using it for everything. I feel much more comfortable about using it now.
Woody: I appreciate the depth of your reply. You, obviously, do a fair amount of research. The Slick 50 I have is supposed to meet or exceed all requirements for #2 NLGI Service Classification GC-LB. I think it will be worth trying. Good luck to you with the Amsoil Series 2000!
Woody
,
Mike, believe it or not, I think I priced it out at around $5.00 a tube. I forget how many I had to buy at a time though. At least I THINK I found it that cheap.
Hardboiled:
Amsoil leaves the moly out because they can acheive a high film strength without it (quite a feat). Molybdenum doesn't hold the heat in, or any other detrimental thing I have heard before (and I have heard some in my days). It is actually quite a lubricant.
Mike:
To cover all bases I was using a grease that met the Ford M1C75B specification (I believe it is just the standard Valvoline "Ford" type grease). This means it prevents wear in high load/high speed applications. That Valvoline Synthetic LOOKS GOOD on the label, but when you corner them and ask if it meets the Ford spec, they will ADMIT that it DOESN'T! So stay away from the Valvoline SYNTHETIC. Anyhow, anything that meets Ford M1C75B will prevent wear on the spindle bearings in a big way, and will be more than adequate for all pivot points as well.
Woody
Mike, believe it or not, I think I priced it out at around $5.00 a tube. I forget how many I had to buy at a time though. At least I THINK I found it that cheap.
Hardboiled:
Amsoil leaves the moly out because they can achieve a high film strength without it (quite a feat). Molybdenum doesn't hold the heat in, or any other detrimental thing I have heard before (and I have heard some in my days). It is actually quite a lubricant.
Mike:
To cover all bases I was using a grease that met the Ford M1C75B specification (I believe it is just the standard Valvoline "Ford" type grease). This means it prevents wear in high load/high speed applications. That Valvoline Synthetic LOOKS GOOD on the label, but when you corner them and ask if it meets the Ford spec, they will ADMIT that it DOESN'T! So stay away from the Valvoline SYNTHETIC. Anyhow, anything that meets Ford M1C75B will prevent wear on the spindle bearings in a big way, and will be more than adequate for all pivot points as well.
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AMSOIL GPOR Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease 5% Moly
http://www.syntheticlubricants.ca/CMFiles/General Files/Product PDF Files/GPOR.pdf
