Great White Pig build/maintenance/no one cares thread.

[montijo505]

That looks good! I was thinking it would block a lot more! The only thing I would have to figure out is moving my back up camera because it would be blocked by the tire carrier.

They sell a kit, I'm still shamefully on stock audio but when I upgrade I'll have to figure out where to put the camera

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[hinmo24t]

They sell a kit, I'm still shamefully on stock audio but when I upgrade I'll have to figure out where to put the camera

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anker bluetooth + smokers kit (or not) for some better quality sound than the normal setup. no complaints, great product.

i almost got a headunit but the disconnecting of elec. 4x4 selector switch im all set with. so many instances of that not getting back together that im all set with that.

love your truck! been a fan of those alloys for awhile and would buy some if the pop up on cl.

 

[montijo505]

anker bluetooth + smokers kit (or not) for some better quality sound than the normal setup. no complaints, great product.



i almost got a headunit but the disconnecting of elec. 4x4 selector switch im all set with. so many instances of that not getting back together that im all set with that.



love your truck! been a fan of those alloys for awhile and would buy some if the pop up on cl.

I'll upgrade the audio eventually, I want Bluetooth and navigation, Apple carplay might be nice. Thanks for the kind words!

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[NoOneCaresWorkMore]

So I've had it for quite a while now. Not very hard but a huge pain to get done nice. I used a Dremel to cut out the inside black portion and then ordered a kit from customcargrills that has pre-bent mesh and the TRD logo. Mesh fit nice only needed a trim in one corner with some tin snips.

I used epoxy rather than the stuff in the video and after all said and done I should have used the other stuff. This video makes it seem really easy but it's actually quite challenging to get the filled in side portions looking that good. Mine isn't perfect but since it's black you have to put your face right up to it to notice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6Ig6HNiGnc&feature=youtu.be

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Sounds tough...maybe I’ll save up for a Yotamafia grill or something. Thanks and good luck on the rest of your build!

 

[montijo505]

Sounds tough...maybe I’ll save up for a Yotamafia grill or something. Thanks and good luck on the rest of your build!

So it isn't actually too hard, just labor intensive. If you can afford to take two or three days to make it work it's really not too bad. I tried to do it too fast and without sourcing the correct plio grip stuff.

I didn't mean to make it sound like it was hard, just takes a while.

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[NoOneCaresWorkMore]

So it isn't actually too hard, just labor intensive. If you can afford to take two or three days to make it work it's really not too bad. I tried to do it too fast and without sourcing the correct plio grip stuff.

I didn't mean to make it sound like it was hard, just takes a while.

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Okey-dokey, thanks for the info!

 

[montijo505]

Finally got around to installing my DuroBumps. Pretty straight forward. Tackled during a tire rotation.

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[montijo505]

Started hearing the buzzing with the brakes some time ago. It's always had it but usually only after start up or lots of city driving. It's all the time now. New symptom is the brake pedal sometimes sinks way further than normal but brakes still work.

Am I on the right track that the master cylinder needs replaced?

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[AuSeeker]

Started hearing the buzzing with the brakes some time ago. It's always had it but usually only after start up or lots of city driving. It's all the time now. New symptom is the brake pedal sometimes sinks way further than normal but brakes still work.

Am I on the right track that the master cylinder needs replaced?

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Maybe or maybe not, do you know exactly what the buzzing is/coming from?

If it coming from the master cylinder, then it's most likely the ABS booster pump electric motor running, it should only run for 10 or so seconds when you first start your T4R and then again about every 3 to 4 times you press the brake pedal, if it's very noisy the motor may need replacing or if it runs with just a light buzzing sound and runs more than the 10 or so seconds then it sounds like the motor is good and either the accumulator is not hold pressure and or the pump itself is going bad and can't build up pressure, my guess would be the accumulator, they have been known to either have it's O-ring go bad or the accumulator itself.

If the motor is running all the time, noisy or not there's another issue with holding or building pressure..but if it very noisy you can get a refurbished motor last I check for around $300 or so but maybe more now, the only way to get a new motor is buying the pump and motor together, a new accumulator will run you $276.43 and $3.32 from McGeorge Toyota, you can get the pump and motor together for $695.27 but you would still need the accumulator, the entire pump/motor/accumulator together goes for $1052.79, or you can get the complete master cylinder assembly for $1931.14 but it might take going to the dealership to get it installed properly, mainly the bleeding of the ABS system/module.

The electric motor and or the accumulator can be installed without removing the master cylinder but would be easier to remove the master cylinder but then you would have to bleed the system, the pump I'm not sure if you need to remove the master cylinder or not to install it.

Link to the parts, prices I listed above.

Hydraulic System for 2008 Toyota 4Runner | Toyota Parts

Another option is taking a chance and getting a used complete assembly off eBay but you need to make sure you get the exact one you have now as the assemblies are different for some 4th gens years and of course you don't know how much life it has left.

 

[montijo505]

Maybe or maybe not, do you know exactly what the buzzing is/coming from?

If it coming from the master cylinder, then it's most likely the ABS booster pump electric motor running, it should only run for 10 or so seconds when you first start your T4R and then again about every 3 to 4 times you press the brake pedal, if it's very noisy the motor may need replacing or if it runs with just a light buzzing sound and runs more than the 10 or so seconds then it sounds like the motor is good and either the accumulator is not hold pressure and or the pump itself is going bad and can't build up pressure, my guess would be the accumulator, they have been known to either have it's O-ring go bad or the accumulator itself.

If the motor is running all the time, noisy or not there's another issue with holding or building pressure..but if it very noisy you can get a refurbished motor last I check for around $300 or so but maybe more now, the only way to get a new motor is buying the pump and motor together, a new accumulator will run you $276.43 and $3.32 from McGeorge Toyota, you can get the pump and motor together for $695.27 but you would still need the accumulator, the entire pump/motor/accumulator together goes for $1052.79, or you can get the complete master cylinder assembly for $1931.14 but it might take going to the dealership to get it installed properly, mainly the bleeding of the ABS system/module.

The electric motor and or the accumulator can be installed without removing the master cylinder but would be easier to remove the master cylinder but then you would have to bleed the system, the pump I'm not sure if you need to remove the master cylinder or not to install it.

Link to the parts, prices I listed above.

Hydraulic System for 2008 Toyota 4Runner | Toyota Parts

Another option is taking a chance and getting a used complete assembly off eBay but you need to make sure you get the exact one you have now as the assemblies are different for some 4th gens years and of course you don't know how much life it has left.

Thanks for the link. The buzzing doesn't seem to have changed really. The one thing I'm sure of is the pedal started going practically to the floor to engage the brakes, but not every press, it's sporadic.

I installed ss brake lines a little over a year ago and bled the brakes until it was all new fluid throughout. The fluid looks fine and it's not low, I checked today. New front brakes were installed over the summer sometime (rotors and pads), I think the rears need new pads/rotors but that wouldn't cause my issue I don't think.

Hoping someone who had the same issue and knows the fix will chime in.

I also started getting an awful grinding noise when backing into my sloped driveway from something in the steering turning both directions. Gonna try and replace the intermediate shaft and see if that solves it.

This vehicle has been problem free for the 8 years and about 70k miles I've owned it (sitting at 161k, purchased in the low 90k's). Guess I can't complain too much about stuff giving out, but why can't it be one thing at a time?! I try to stay ahead on the maintenance but I guess with stuff like this, there's nothing to do but grin and bear it and replace it.

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[montijo505]

I never posted on here but my issue ended up being a loose wheel bearing. It must have backed out because I didn’t tighten it fully and the lug studs were hitting the bearing bolts. The brakes would shift and that was why the pedal was soft.

New brakes, tightened the bearing and all good.

I ran into a guy in a third gen taco at the grocery store with SCS SR8 in jet black the other day (the wheels I’ve always wanted). I jokingly told him I’d swap him my Ray 10’s.

While I do love the design of the Ray’s, the gunmetal never quite convinced me on my white car. I’ve also wanted to get narrower wheels, because I’ve had the bug to try skinny tires.

He said yes and we swapped numbers, I didn’t think he seemed that interested. Well we made it happen today and I’m super pumped! He had all five so we traded straight across. Only downside is I need to disable my TPMS because the light is on now for some reason. They swapped the sensors but they’re 13 years old and I’m not replacing them.

Pic for fun!



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[montijo505]

My driver side Icon coil over decided it didn’t need all of its oil sometime between my last tire rotation and today. Guess I’ll be learning how to rebuild shocks!

Been looking at tutorials and there’s nothing technical about it as long as you stay organized. Figured I’ll give it a whirl.


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[montijo505]

My center console door latch broke the other day. Found it cheapest on eBay, about $17. Came in two days!

Finally gonna get around to ordering the stuff to rebuild my coilovers, but really not looking forward to it. Oh well, it’s a few days in the garage, or twice the price to be lazy and send them off.



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[AuSeeker]

My center console door latch broke the other day. Found it cheapest on eBay, about $17. Came in two days!

Finally gonna get around to ordering the stuff to rebuild my coilovers, but really not looking forward to it. Oh well, it’s a few days in the garage, or twice the price to be lazy and send them off. View attachment 383827
View attachment 383828


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Did the console latch fit/work on your 2008, I ask because I search that part number (58908-12080) and it comes up as the center console latch for a 5th Gen?

The part number for all 4th Gens that I came up with is 58908-32050 and it $8.63 at McGeorge Toyota.

1995-2010 Toyota Center Console Latch 58908-32050 | Toyota Parts

 

[montijo505]

Did the console latch fit/work on your 2008, I ask because I search that part number (58908-12080) and it comes up as the center console latch for a 5th Gen?

The part number for all 4th Gens that I came up with is 58908-32050 and it $8.63 at McGeorge Toyota.

1995-2010 Toyota Center Console Latch 58908-32050 | Toyota Parts

Yes it worked perfect, that’s what I get for not looking into it more. Dang lol.


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[montijo505]

Parts started showing up for my Icon coil over rebuild. Totally not looking forward to it lol.


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[montijo505]

Swapped in Icon overland 3” rear coils. Nothings wrong with the 2” I’ve been running but wanted a bit of rake and a longer spring. Ever since adding the rear tire carrier and spare I’ve noticed it’s a bit harsher over bumps. The initial test drive seems to show this fixed it.
Old on right, new on left.


So tall I had to use the bottle jack between the axle/bump stop and a spring compressor to get them in!


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[montijo505]

I’d been wanting to go to a heavier load tire than the SL wildpeaks I’ve been running for two years. I came across some D load Duratracs in 285/70R17 for cheap locally. Only 4 though so I had to buy a new one to complete my set of 5. The one new one almost cost as much as the other 4!!

Anyway, here she is on the new shoes and the taller springs. This is still with the old tires loaded in back. I like the rake much more than the level look.




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[y=mx+b]

I’d been wanting to go to a heavier load tire than the SL wildpeaks I’ve been running for two years. I came across some D load Duratracs in 285/70R17 for cheap locally. Only 4 though so I had to buy a new one to complete my set of 5. The one new one almost cost as much as the other 4!!

Anyway, here she is on the new shoes and the taller springs. This is still with the old tires loaded in back. I like the rake much more than the level look.

Rake definitely looks good dude! :cheers:

Gonna ditch my p-rated wildpeaks here soon hopefully!

 

[montijo505]

Rake definitely looks good dude! :cheers:

Gonna ditch my p-rated wildpeaks here soon hopefully!

Any idea what you're gonna go with? All terrain, mudders or a hybrid?