Group buy for Doug Thorley PREMIUM VERSION headers, need 20 people!

[JVC8790]

My left side y pipe sensor bung threads where all out of wack. Right went in fine. I was under the impression, you should never space header downstream bungs, those two sensors are integral to computer readings for a properly running truck. . I stacked two 90degree spacers on top of each other on my Dt y pipe and no cel, truck runs well.

Also another thing to add. I had to heat and bend my y pipe to meet my lt headers. The driver side was off almost two inches.

I’m running Dt long tube, Dt y pipe and Gibson. Again no need for mini cat spacers.


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The Y Pipe Fitment issues are widespread, we had to cut/reweld my factory Y pipe because as you mentioned, the drivers side didn't fit worth a shit. Surely nothing will come of the fact that these clearly weren't built to mate up with a factory Y pipe, and even those who bought the Doug Thorley one like yourself they didn't fit, which is even more impressive that 2 pieces by the same manufacturer, for the same truck, don't even bolt together without modification. Makes me glad I didn't buy the Y pipe just to have to hack it up.

Honestly, I'm probably 5/10 on being satisfied with this purchase, between the wait time, poor communication, and then fitment issues, the only thing I'm happy with is the fact that my manifold tick is gone, which could have been solved with replacement manifolds about 6 months quicker and hundreds of dollars cheaper.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

The Y Pipe Fitment issues are widespread, we had to cut/reweld my factory Y pipe because as you mentioned, the drivers side didn't fit worth a shit. Surely nothing will come of the fact that these clearly weren't built to mate up with a factory Y pipe, and even those who bought the Doug Thorley one like yourself they didn't fit, which is even more impressive that 2 pieces by the same manufacturer, for the same truck, don't even bolt together without modification. Makes me glad I didn't buy the Y pipe just to have to hack it up.

Honestly, I'm probably 5/10 on being satisfied with this purchase, between the wait time, poor communication, and then fitment issues, the only thing I'm happy with is the fact that my manifold tick is gone, which could have been solved with replacement manifolds about 6 months quicker and hundreds of dollars cheaper.

My Y pipe had the issues as well. The headers I'm happy with. Wait time sucked, but having done multiple group buys on here, I knew what to expect. That said, I really wish a true Toyota fan company would jump into the 2UZ 4runners and find us ways to get some power with reasonably priced intake, exhaust, and internal/tuning mods. The LS world is just too competitive, and there are too many elderly and families that still own these trucks to have any serious interest in getting more power to make it worth a companies time for R&D. Gadget at URD has so much interest from people wanting power out of the V6, it's not worth his time either. The independent Tundra guys out west have probably gotten some decent results, but they can't produce products on a large scale. There again the LS in a pre runner is a no brainer. GM cores are everywhere. We need to keep supporting [MENTION=162495]Charles4x4[/MENTION] and Steel City Racing at KOH though!!
Steel City Racing: King of the Hammers 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build Thread

 

[awhitney1]

I've had my muffler shop install the new headers and titanium studs a month ago. Took them 20 hours!! He told me in the 30 years of doing muffler work, this was a son of a *****! Got the headers installed, titanium studs and new G-sport cats and all is good!

Definitely worth it, but expensive! Pretty happy with the results

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

I've had my muffler shop install the new headers and titanium studs a month ago. Took them 20 hours!! He told me in the 30 years of doing muffler work, this was a son of a *****! Got the headers installed, titanium studs and new G-sport cats and all is good!

Definitely worth it, but expensive! Pretty happy with the results

It wasn't the easiest mod I've ever done but glad I tackled it. I'd say I had 20 -25 hrs over the course of 3 to 4 days and by myself. Had my Son working the floor jack for about 10 minutes one day because getting the drivers side lifted up was a PIA. But that was it for help.
I bought a Vibrant muffler and was leaning toward the G-sports, but the damn shut down has me sittin on my ass now with no income insight, waiting on the Golf Channel to figure their shit out so we can go back to work.
So all mods have stopped. I've still got the old Thrush w no Cats on there for now. It's on the road and running good though, so I can't complain too much on that one.

 

[j4x4v8]

I've had my muffler shop install the new headers and titanium studs a month ago. Took them 20 hours!! He told me in the 30 years of doing muffler work, this was a son of a *****! Got the headers installed, titanium studs and new G-sport cats and all is good!

Definitely worth it, but expensive! Pretty happy with the results

It wasn't the easiest mod I've ever done but glad I tackled it. I'd say I had 20 -25 hrs over the course of 3 to 4 days and by myself. Had my Son working the floor jack for about 10 minutes one day because getting the drivers side lifted up was a PIA. But that was it for help.
I bought a Vibrant muffler and was leaning toward the G-sports, but the damn shut down has me sittin on my ass now with no income insight, waiting on the Golf Channel to figure their shit out so we can go back to work.
So all mods have stopped. I've still got the old Thrush w no Cats on there for now. It's on the road and running good though, so I can't complain too much on that one.

The guy from the exhaust shop who did my DT shorties said they were a SOB to get in, and that the bolts weren't lining up right (he thinks the Doug Thorley molds might be slightly off?). Two studs broke off during the process.

He had to take off, and then put back on, the drivers side header 4 times. He also had issues with the passenger side too, but not as bad. He didn't tell me exactly how long it took him but I'm guessing 10-12 hours. I'll be posting an update in my exhaust system thread soon.

 

[pmoneys]

Doing a complete timing belt kit, upgrading battery cables to 0ga and 4ga, new battery and terminals, and DG Headers/midpipe and customized to be a true dual with 7” race mufflers and x-pipe!!

I will have to cut the mid pipe and really looked at getting a custom one built but with parts and labor wasn’t saving enough to offset what I’m getting my guy to do all of this for.

Can you share a picture of your true dual when it's all routed? I want to go the dual exhaust route but I'm having trouble figuring out routing it. I'm getting a swingarm bumper to get the extra room from the spare tire, but any pictures of your routing would be very helpful.

 

[MY06T4R]

Can anyone tell me if the current long tube headers sold by Doug Thurly are the complete stainless including the air tubes ??? I am thinking of purchasing a set and want to make sure what set I would be purchasing. Thanks

 

[Az4runnin]

Can anyone tell me if the current long tube headers sold by Doug Thurly are the complete stainless including the air tubes ??? I am thinking of purchasing a set and want to make sure what set I would be purchasing. Thanks

No they are Not. That was a 1 time Run.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Can anyone tell me if the current long tube headers sold by Doug Thurly are the complete stainless including the air tubes ??? I am thinking of purchasing a set and want to make sure what set I would be purchasing. Thanks

I recall them making some permanent manufacturing changes, there was talk of either the flanges, or air tubes, being made from SS for their normal production runs, I don't remember which component though, its in one of the threads.

This would be a question for Doug Thorley.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

Can anyone tell me if the current long tube headers sold by Doug Thurly are the complete stainless including the air tubes ??? I am thinking of purchasing a set and want to make sure what set I would be purchasing. Thanks

The ONLY special part from the group buy that this thread is about is the stainless mounting flanges.

By extension, the regular production ones are now full stainless, EXCEPT the mounting flanges, which are cold roll steel.

So yeah, the air tubes will be stainless for any units from 2020-up.

 

[MY06T4R]

Thank you for your replies, I will reach out to them and and see what I find out and let you know what they say. Thanks again.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

I recall them making some permanent manufacturing changes, there was talk of either the flanges, or air tubes, being made from SS for their normal production runs, I don't remember which component though, its in one of the threads.

This would be a question for Doug Thorley.

It was [MENTION=116567]Marfy[/MENTION] that got the air tube problem resolved. They would have rusted through in no time, so they are stainless now from what I've read in the other thread.

Excerpt from DT's email to Marfy last year:

Starting on our next production runs going forward, next is scheduled in early to mid-July (this can change if needed based on current demand), we will begin constructing these headers with Stainless Air Injection tubing. Once that production run is complete (4-5 weeks based on outside processing for ceramic coating) we will replace the current headers you have now. Others should also know that if they have rusted air injection tubes and proof of purchase they will also be covered. Like I have said, yours has shown the first incident like this and we are confident that others should not expect to have outcome that you have. This production change will effect part numbers THY-562-SS-C, THY-563-SS-C, & THY-563Y-LS-C.

 

[JVC8790]

[MENTION=9]Jason B[/MENTION] , has there been any statement from Burtman Industries or Doug Thorley regarding the Y Pipe fitment issues with these headers?

[MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION]
[MENTION=521974]Killacaviar[/MENTION] - had to kink a brand new DT Y Pipe to fit the brand new DT Headers he bought.
[MENTION=119302]4RunnerAquasport[/MENTION] - had a DT Y pipe that didn't fit stock manifolds, had to adjust it, then ordered DT Headers, and they don't line up to where the stock manifolds were positioned. Indicating the DT Headers and a stock manifold, do not share flange positioning.

In my case, a Stock Y Pipe doesn't line up to the headers without sectioning the Y pipe. See first part of this post.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3483360-post159.html

 

[Rannd]

I called DT today because my 4Runner is in the shop today finally getting the headers, y pipe and catback installed.

They recommended having all header bolts loose before connecting the Y pipe then tightening them. I'll find out for sure if this works for me. I have the URD Y pipe that will be connected to it.

 

[j4x4v8]

ordered DT Headers, and they don't line up to where the stock manifolds were positioned.

I got the DT ST in late May, had it installed last weekend, and my exhaust guy had major fitment issues on the drivers side. Passenger side too, but not as bad. He couldn't get the bolts to start.

 

[bjornberg]

My installer is having drivers side fitment issues as well.

 

[Jason B]

I called DT today because my 4Runner is in the shop today finally getting the headers, y pipe and catback installed.

They recommended having all header bolts loose before connecting the Y pipe then tightening them. I'll find out for sure if this works for me.

Yes yes yes [emoji1419] They have to loosen and leave lentire system loose before any tightening down. Most start on passenger cuz it's the easiest. You can’t tighten down all the way and expect specifically fitting items to just nicely come together.

All parts, header, y pipe, and stock or cat back should be loose when installing until all connections are met, then tighten down like a tire. Jumping around from bolt to bolt. Be sure to relay to installer as most throw The instructions away and just go off what they know sometimes.

 

[JVC8790]

Yes yes yes [emoji1419] They have to loosen and leave lentire system loose before any tightening down. Most start on passenger cuz it's the easiest. You can’t tighten down all the way and expect specifically fitting items to just nicely come together.

All parts, header, y pipe, and stock or cat back should be loose when installing until all connections are met, then tighten down like a tire. Jumping around from bolt to bolt. Be sure to relay to installer as most throw The instructions away and just go off what they know sometimes.

Regardless if they throw the instructions away or not, the instructions mention nothing about this procedure and I don't recall it being mentioned in previous discussion about installation until people started mentioning that stuff doesn't fit.

1) With the engine still raised, install the passenger side header and gasket to the motor and start all the nuts. Leave loose at this time.

2) Work the dip stick tube between tubes #1 and #2 while header is still loose. Use supplied bolt and spacer, it may be necessary to "tweak" the dipstick tube.

3) Re-install engine mount and lower engine into the correct position on the frame. Both sides. NOTE: Access will be easier if the front wheels and tires are remove if you have the means.

4) Tighten all nuts starting with the center working your way out alternating end to end.

5) Repeat this process for the driverside with exception to the oil dip stick.

6) Install the wire harness heatshield (driverside).

7) Install the supplied o2 harness extensions and o2 sensors.

END OF INSTRUCTIONS.

 

[4Climber]

[MENTION=9]Jason B[/MENTION], any news about the Ti studs?

Thanks

Yes yes yes [emoji1419] They have to loosen and leave lentire system loose before any tightening down. Most start on passenger cuz it's the easiest. You can’t tighten down all the way and expect specifically fitting items to just nicely come together.

All parts, header, y pipe, and stock or cat back should be loose when installing until all connections are met, then tighten down like a tire. Jumping around from bolt to bolt. Be sure to relay to installer as most throw The instructions away and just go off what they know sometimes.

 

[bjornberg]

Got my truck back from the shop yesterday, glad to have this thing back and running proper. Sounds mean, no more tick, no CELs so far with the mini cats welded in. Thanks to Jason for sourcing parts, appreciate all of your help. Worth the wait, can't wait to get out this weekend!