Guide: Radiator and Thermostat Replacement for Noobs

I definitely pushed the tab
you described pushing the tab in and i wasn't sure what that meant so I figured I'd pass along an easy technique i read about in another post. They are stubborn and frustrating and easy to break.

Found it. BigFishAllDay, of course
"The grille is easily removed by pressing the little tabs that retain it to its mounting points downward with a flathead screwdriver. You can see the tabs by looking at the front end of the holes/locations where the grille mounts to the body. I know some guys have had a hard time with the grille removal, so here's a few shots of the tabs you're looking for..."
first three pics http://www.toyota-4runner.org/586723-post1.html
 
I see attachment text when I quoted you but no pics. I definitely pushed the tab, but the tab was visible from the top. A little yank while pushing in tab made some come out rather easily, but others were not as compliant. Also seems like in the two times I've had the grill off that I end up pushing other tabs back IN while trying to remove the remaining few.

The first time you remove the grill, it will fight you like a wild Mustang. After a few times, both you and the grill will be used to it. Mine has been done more times than a five-dollar hooker on a Friday night and comes off real easy. The first time was a bear--I ended up parking nose-to in front of my garage door and bungee tying the grill to the door handle. (Easiest anchor I could find.) Then when you pop a tab, it STAYS popped.
 
Thanks again for the detailed pictures on this thread, I was able to complete the radiator replacement all by myself.

I've got a question though, I changed the coolant and did not take complete 2.5 gallons as I had expected. I kept the truck running on full heat and also raised the front by pulling up on a curb, but it did not take more. However I noticed that it was spitting out some coolant, not much, when the engine was running with the cap off.
 
Sorry for the late response cyclops. If you've been monitoring your temps and your overflow tank is staying at a consistent mark, I'd have to bet that you're full and fine. I think there is some variance with coolant capacity depending on whether you have the rear heater. But anyway, good job on the install and glad the instructions were of some assistance. I did just as you did, by filling it until it wouldn't take any more (and then filling the overflow tank to the correct mark). Still happy at about 190*
 
Sorry for the late response cyclops. If you've been monitoring your temps and your overflow tank is staying at a consistent mark, I'd have to bet that you're full and fine. I think there is some variance with coolant capacity depending on whether you have the rear heater. But anyway, good job on the install and glad the instructions were of some assistance. I did just as you did, by filling it until it wouldn't take any more (and then filling the overflow tank to the correct mark). Still happy at about 190*

No problem man. Thanks again for this great guide.

I made a trip to Adirondacks this weekend and it was smooth (new tires were a big help as well). I checked the coolant temperature a few times with the torque lite app and it was stead at 91-93 degree Celsius - dunno how to make it count in F! :pound:
 
[MENTION=101600]hour[/MENTION] mentioned Spectra radiators but found no reviews. Here's my review,I installed one this weekend...

Cost me $102.74 from Pep Boys. There's a 25% discount code if you place an online order over $100.

Didn't have to drill holes for the mounting brackets,radiator slid right into place. They must reuse OEM brackets because they're identical to my original ones except the finish,has new coat of slightly textured dark gray paint instead of the smooth black OEM finish.

Hardware bolting the brackets to the rad itself was different. OEM bolts have washers and require a 12mm socket,Spectra's use a 10mm socket and no washers. I replaced the upper ones with OEMs,couldn't replace the bottom ones because they were too seized on my original rad. I did discover the Spectra's bottom bolts were loose,I was under the truck putting the hoses on and noticed some movement.

Plastic tanks are definitely their design and not OEM. Upper tank was molded a little sloppy,found some flash near the radiator cap opening. Both hose fittings were slightly smaller in diameter than stock,makes hose installation easier but if your stock spring clamps aren't in good condition I suggest using normal hose clamps. Trans cooler fittings were brass instead of aluminum,and again slightly smaller diameter than OEM.

Aluminum core is very similar to OEM,a couple of burrs where they cut notches,didn't bother me to the point of sanding them smooth but it's definitely not up to OEM fit and finish.

So Spectra:
1) Bolts up fine
2) Check for loose hardware and maybe swap with OEM
3) May want to use normal hose clamps
4) Doesn't look as nice as OEM
5) Is a pretty good deal other than the few minor issues.


BTW I was able to get the overflow tank off easily by putting a large screwdriver between it and the frame rail then gently prying upwards.
 
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Thanks for this diy. Not a hard job at all but helps to have some pics and details before you dig in. Much appreciated.
 
Thanks for the great write up. I had a question about the thermostat housing, is there a gasket beyond the rubber one that fits onto the thermostat? Should there be one? None of the parts diagrams I have see show one but I was wondering if maybe it was part of the Outlet housing sold as one part and you need to replace it when you do the job?

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the great write up! It was very easy to follow. I bought a Denso radiator and in slid right in perfectly!
 
I used your write up to install new hoses and a thermostat. Wish I had followed it a bit more carefully. I didn't do the hand-tightening of the thermostat housing nuts and just torque-wrenched it instead. Re-filled the radiator and, sure enough, I started leaking coolant. Unfortunately, my brand new thermostat was in between the housing and the body. Bent it right on the jiggle valve, and sheared the gasket to boot. Back to the old one for a few days!

Thanks for the write up man. Lesson learned - when someone writes a warning, heed it. Still coming out on top - whole process, with a second t-stat and gasket, will still be about $450 less than the stealership wanted. For those of you doing this yourself with OEM parts, ask your local dealership to price match parts - mine wanted $40 for the thermostat and instantly dropped it to $21 when I brought up the list price.
 
thank you for this write up. As I type this, I have my cart at Rock auto filled with the Denso rad, thermostat, upper and lower hoses. Planning on using Zerex asian formula. I'm debating on the B&M trans cooler though...
 
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If you'd like to see a video of replacing the radiator and thermostat with the addition of installing an external trans cooler, here it is:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2nVbwe2t2T8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
If you'd like to see a video of replacing the radiator and thermostat with the addition of installing an external trans cooler, here it is:

Thanks Tim! Have watched all of your videos, more than once! I'm a guy who likes to see everything from different angles before I dive in.

This community is fantastic.
 
Hey, just wanted to say thanks for this write up! I did my radiator and condenser today and it was really great going in knowing exactly what to expect.
 
I have a new-to-me 2000 with 140k on it. Radiator isn't original, but it has a poorly-patched hole near the bottom, so it's time for a new one. Think it's worth replacing the thermostat, or don't worry about it since it was likely replaced with the radiator first time around?
 
I would suggest a New thermostat/gasket and cap to go with your New radiator. And don't forget to put the jiggle valve pointing down to 6oclock. I went with Denso and and dealer thermo/gasket. Found out old thermo was sticking a little closed cuz my temps dropped about 10 degrees, so it's worth starting off fresh on all the coolant parts at once. Luck and enjoy the runner. :cowboy:
 

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