Guide: V8 Timing belt replacement 2UZ-FE VVT-i

I just completed my first timing belt replacement job and thought I would share my experience here. This guide is (of course) follow at your own risk. I wouldn't recommend doing this as your first foray into working on your own vehicle, but if you have done work like this on cars before it is a straight forward timing belt job.


Here is a link to the you tube video I followed along with. It isnt the VVT-I engine, but I found the differences between the engine he was working on and mine to be miniscule. He gives a lot of little tips and tricks as well as some very important information about this engine in general that I found invaluable. If you are going to use my guide, I would HIGHLY recommend following along with him as well.

Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8DP4DrtQrE

Part 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faaiapF0snQ&t=2488s



Next is a list of parts that I purchased to complete the job. My general rule of thumb is, if I can take it off, I replace it. You may not need to replace everything I replaced, or you may want to replace more things (I found myself wishing I had purchased a new fan bracket, power steering pump, and alternator for various reasons) I am just listing what I replaced.
Timing belt/Water pump kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033DOKLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn’t use the bolts, or the paper gasket for the thermostat housing frim this kit.

Drive Belt Kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IU70SH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Crankshaft front seal kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q0S9G6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermostat Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J09FONU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Strangely enough Amazon doesn’t think this fits my car…. But it does

Thermostat:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...436291/2007/toyota/4runner?q=Thermostat&pos=0
I will say, I was very impressed with the factory thermostat and in retrospect I wish I had purchased one from Toyota. As this is an easy to replace part in the future if I ever need it, I wasn’t too worried.

Coolant:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QQDA2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
bought 4 have one and some left.

Toyotas special FIPG gasket maker that you will need between the water pump and lower thermostat housing:
https://www.amazon.ca/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0
I didn’t buy this on Amazon. I got it from the dealer for about 19 bucks.

Oil and filter of your choice.


Next, I will list non-standard tools that bought and was very glad I had:

- A second 12mm wrench. The longer the better
- 10 mm hex bit socket
- 2-foot-long ½ drive breaker bar
- 3/8” Torque wrench
- ½” torque wrench. Make sure it is rated at least 200 LB
- A huge drain funnel (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0XMBO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a 5 gallon bucket
- Damper pulley holding tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XDBBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- 3/8” drive swivel



I parked my 4runner on ramps which allowed me to get my coolant drain pan and bucket under it, used a 4’ ladder to do work under the hood (3” lift and ramps = no way to get under the hood without), and had a huge shop light to work with.
 

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Thank you for the awesome write up here. i'm tackling this in a couple weeks and glad that everything is fairly straighforward if just involved. Originally was going to have OTRAMM install it for me but can't get the travel/timing together.
 
Part 2:
 

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Part 3:
 

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Part 4: (I think??)
 

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Part 37:
 

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Thank you for the awesome write up here. i'm tackling this in a couple weeks and glad that everything is fairly straighforward if just involved. Originally was going to have OTRAMM install it for me but can't get the travel/timing together.

If you have experience working on cars, or have done timing belts before, you should do this yourself. As long as you pay attention to the Timing marks before removing the belt, and you don't move the cams or crank afterward, its no big deal. I put fasteners that I removed in labeled bags, numbered so I could work backwards so as not to lose track of them. Once you do it, make sure to post your experience.
 
Nice write up!

A tip if you want to ensure your coolant isn't spilling out everywhere is to drain it at the radiator and also at the block. There are two fittings, one on either side, towards the rear of the engine with I believe 10mm head bolts that you crack open and can drain the block down all the way for a full coolant flush at the same service event.
 
[MENTION=281309]Jcmeadows82[/MENTION] Great right up. The little bracket on top of the a/c compressor is there to hold it place while you remove/install the compressor. With the all the bolts removed it will hang in place until you get the bolts in/out. Just lift it up and off then tie it out of the way.
 
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If you have experience working on cars, or have done timing belts before, you should do this yourself. As long as you pay attention to the Timing marks before removing the belt, and you don't move the cams or crank afterward, its no big deal. I put fasteners that I removed in labeled bags, numbered so I could work backwards so as not to lose track of them. Once you do it, make sure to post your experience.

Never done a timing belt but done lots of suspension, brakes, etc. Finally clicked about TDC vs 50* past and feel good to go on it.

Will post up how it goes!
 
Nice write up!

A tip if you want to ensure your coolant isn't spilling out everywhere is to drain it at the radiator and also at the block. There are two fittings, one on either side, towards the rear of the engine with I believe 10mm head bolts that you crack open and can drain the block down all the way for a full coolant flush at the same service event.

haha! This would have been nice to know when I did mine. However, the huge funnel I bought did a pretty good job catching all the fluid that dumped. Draining it completely would have meant I could replace all the coolant which would have been nice. Thanks for the tip!
 
Great write up! Thank you for taking the time and energy to document your procedure. Bookmarked for later!

In a day of instagram posts, it is threads like this that make me continue coming back to the forums. Props.
 
Completed!!

[MENTION=281309]Jcmeadows82[/MENTION]

Thank you for the detailed write up, between your notes and the OTRAMM videos, I was able to get this done.

This video was really helpful for the timing marks I made:
YouTube

Things to complain about:
- f the ac bolts. Made the mistake of removing the rear bolt and spent a lot of time getting it back in and torqued down.
- f the ac bracket held on by the screw. Keep it on until you need to take it off.
- The waterpump was shockingly hard to get off. I have been battling a cold all week so def had a case of the weakies yanking it off.
- The crank bolt is not joke. Had two breaker bars and cheater pipes AND the tool that is recommended.

What worked for me:
- I stayed very organized by having dozens of ziplock snack bags and labeled each bolt, nut, screw for each item that came off, eg, power steering bolts, alternator bolts, in separate bags.
- I did not like only using the new timing belt marks to line everything up. I created my own marks on the cam/crank pulleys and the old belt and transferred them to the the new belt. I could see that I was off a tooth initially. The best route that worked for me for putting the new belt on was driver cam and crank, then passenger last. not much slack between the driver cam and crank.
- Would recommend replacing the serpentine belt tensioner while you are in there. It comes out for this job and is one of those things that would have been nice to take care of that isn't in the kit.
- The large drain pan is highly recommended.
- The cam sensor plug holder thing on the back is impossible to remove. There is some clip mechanism but ended up cutting it off.
- really good opportunity to remove your throttle body and do a proper deep clean on it

Pics:
First pic is my marks on the old belt. I marked the timing line and a couple teeth to each side.

Second pic is my crank. I made a mark (in black) on the crank and lined it up with the mark on my new belt.
 

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Thanks for all the detail!
How much time should I plan for this job?

Haven't done it before

For me I disassembled all the major stuff in about 5 hours. Taking my time and being very thorough. The next day I started at 9am and was done by 12pm with reassembly. I had help with reassembly but not disassembly.
 
Thanks for all the detail!
How much time should I plan for this job?

Haven't done it before
I'd say it was a solid day ordeal - probably 8ish hours of fully involved work. It was nice to take a break between disassembly and re-installation of all components, and then do other maintenance at the same time, because you are literally and figuratively, arms-deep in the 2uz by the time you get to the TB/WP. Good luck!
 
I'd say it was a solid day ordeal - probably 8ish hours of fully involved work. It was nice to take a break between disassembly and re-installation of all components, and then do other maintenance at the same time, because you are literally and figuratively, arms-deep in the 2uz by the time you get to the TB/WP. Good luck!

Thanks very much for the reference!

I need to get this done and change shocks too.
Lack of time has tempted me to pay for it but it hurts to pay for something you can do.
 
Thanks for a very detailed thread on the process. I'm getting ready to gather the parts for this job right now as I just bought a 2003 with the 2uz that is due for the timing belt. Currently at 280k miles and the PO told me the t-belt was last done at 180k.

Looking at kits on Amazon, are there any recommendations on kits or is the one the OP linked good to go?
 

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