Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

I currently have the 13WL 231mm tundra calipers with LC 80 wheels. NO Spacers

This is the only pic I have available right now. Let me know if you want me to snap any other (closeup shots).

Liftand33.jpg



edit: and a closer shot... poor pic though...

LCwheelsTundraBrake%2520001.jpg
 
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Can someone please confirm if these Toyota part numbers are correct?

47750-0C020 RH
47750-0C020 LH

One of my local dealers said that a reman is not available - is there any credence to this?
 
Can someone please confirm if these Toyota part numbers are correct?

47750-0C020 RH
47750-0C020 LH

One of my local dealers said that a reman is not available - is there any credence to this?

47750-0C020 is the Left hand caliper
47730–0C020 is the Right hand caliper

You will not get reman calipers from a Toyota dealer. You can buy reman calipers from anywhere (and a hell of a lot cheaper too). I got mine from Napa FWIW.
 
47750-0C020 is the Left hand caliper
47730–0C020 is the Right hand caliper

You will not get reman calipers from a Toyota dealer. You can buy reman calipers from anywhere (and a hell of a lot cheaper too). I got mine from Napa FWIW.

Socco,

Thanks for the clarifications. I was entering the P/Ns from my iPad, so I might've messed up.

I go with Toyota parts whenever possible unless the part I'm getting is an upgrade. I suppose that the subs that reman for the parts stores also do it for Big T, but IMO, Toyota's QC gives me that extra peace of mind. Especially when dealing with critical systems.

I'll give NAPA a shot, because I don't really wanna deal with shipping cores back to my Toyota parts connection, should that even be possible.


Thanks,

Hung
 
I love this mod and I actually used this writeup to guide me through everything. However, I ordered up all of my parts from Rockauto. I returned my core back to them and they refunded me quickly. Best money I've spent so far on the truck. I noticed the major braking improvements right away.

untitled-5.jpg~original
 
Dumb question - I keep seeing them listed "Semi-Loaded" as well as "w/hardware only." Which one do I want - semi-loaded, I assume? I'll be ordering everything else (not counting calipers) through Toyotapartsales.com, I believe.
 
In my view there are no dumb questions, just dumb people who ask them.

Semi loaded calipers include the calipers and hardware (springs, pins). Unloaded is nothing but the calipers. Loaded includes brake pads. I'd personally go with semi, and choose your own pads.

Also, if you are not getting your calipers from the dealer or a junkyard, paint them or they will tend to rust up rather quick.
 
In my view there are no dumb questions, just dumb people who ask them.

Thanks, I think. ;):

Semi loaded calipers include the calipers and hardware (springs, pins). Unloaded is nothing but the calipers. Loaded includes brake pads. I'd personally go with semi, and choose your own pads.

Ah, OK; I assumed that's what it meant. And you're right - I'd prefer semi-loaded. The part #'s I've chosen include the remanufactured, semi-loaded calipers from NAPA, as well as Toyota OEM parts (pads, shims, rotors).

Also, if you are not getting your calipers from the dealer or a junkyard, paint them or they will tend to rust up rather quick.

Noted - I've seen that a bunch.
 
BigFish, I can't say thank you enough for this write up. I just completed the upgrade to the 231mm on my '99 Limited 4x4 and am quite pleased with the result. Braking is powerful, smoother and more consistent throughout pedal depression than the OEMs. I probably wouldn't have done this upgrade without your write-up. Thanks again.
 
Update for my 231mm setup:

After doing a bit of research for rotors and pads for my wife's 2002 pre-Runner I found some discouraging info about the Auto Zone Duralast ceramic pads. The Duralast pads last so long because they wear out the rotors....

I noticed the scouring on my rotors a week after I installed my Auto Zone parts.

I ended up putting Brembo Rotors and Akebono ceramic pads on my wife's truck. I wanted to get away from the "Organic" OEM pads which wearout quickly and made her front wheels black with brake dust constantly.

Anyways, after a few weeks I was so impressed with this setup on the Tacoma that I replaced the Auto Zone rotors and pads on my Runner with the Brembo Rotors and Akebono ceramic Pads (P/N ASP 976).

I did this yesterday and even without doing a Bed-In they work better than the Auto zone pads. I still have the Auto Zone calipers which are working great.
 
I currently have the 13WL 231mm tundra calipers with LC 80 wheels. NO Spacers

This is the only pic I have available right now. Let me know if you want me to snap any other (closeup shots).

LCwheelsTundraBrake%2520001.jpg~original

J.B. Thanks for posting the pics, but I'd definitely like to see some better ones. Take a macro (close up shot) of the caliper & wheel spoke from about 6 inches away, showing how close the spoke is to the caliper... Second, if you don't mind, take a shot from behind the wheel, showing the entire caliper as viewed from the inboard side and how it sits inside the wheel.

Honestly, from the pics you posted I can't even verify that those are indeed 13WL calipers. I'm not saying you're trying to mislead people, I simply want to verify that you have properly ID'd the calipers because they have been mis-identified in the past. If you post a shot of the caliper taken from the inside, the casting stamp should be clearly visible.

I love this mod and I actually used this writeup to guide me through everything. However, I ordered up all of my parts from Rockauto. I returned my core back to them and they refunded me quickly. Best money I've spent so far on the truck. I noticed the major braking improvements right away.

untitled-5.jpg~original

I'm glad the write-up helped you out, and thanks for sponsoring T4R.org.

So, from your picture, I see that we can add the SCS F-5 to the "List of Wheels that Fit", but what about the Stealth 6? Does it also clear the 231's? If so that would be another good reason for people to consider buying your wheels.

BigFish, I can't say thank you enough for this write up. I just completed the upgrade to the 231mm on my '99 Limited 4x4 and am quite pleased with the result. Braking is powerful, smoother and more consistent throughout pedal depression than the OEMs. I probably wouldn't have done this upgrade without your write-up. Thanks again.

Cytronus, I'm glad the write-up helped you out, and I appreciate the feedback! Congrats on the successful upgrade.

Update for my 231mm setup:

After doing a bit of research for rotors and pads for my wife's 2002 pre-Runner I found some discouraging info about the Auto Zone Duralast ceramic pads. The Duralast pads last so long because they wear out the rotors....

I noticed the scouring on my rotors a week after I installed my Auto Zone parts.

I ended up putting Brembo Rotors and Akebono ceramic pads on my wife's truck. I wanted to get away from the "Organic" OEM pads which wearout quickly and made her front wheels black with brake dust constantly.

Anyways, after a few weeks I was so impressed with this setup on the Tacoma that I replaced the Auto Zone rotors and pads on my Runner with the Brembo Rotors and Akebono ceramic Pads (P/N ASP 976).

I did this yesterday and even without doing a Bed-In they work better than the Auto zone pads. I still have the Auto Zone calipers which are working great.

Interesting review of the AutoZone pads. Thanks for posting that ALBPM! I'll have to keep an eye on my Wife's 4Runner and see how her rotors wear over time. She's running the same pads that you're talking about here.

This write up is the only reason I was able to do this upgrade and stop my car from shaking me horribly every time I looked at the brakes.
Thanks!

Fluffeh! That's a funny username. I'm glad you found it useful, and thanks for the kudos.

After the 231mm upgrade I am getting a click from my pads shifting in the calipers. This only happpens the first time I push the brakes while in reverse. I have not noticed it going back into drive after the "reverse" click. I have the wire clip/spring installed on the top pin on both sides.

Has anyone else experienced this or suggest a solution?

Yup. Mine does it too from time to time. That being said, so does my '97 which still has stock OEM brakes on it. I think the pads themselves can sometimes be just a millimeter off from spec on the size of the backing plates, allowing them to move a little in the caliper. No biggie, and not a safety issue... just a little annoying.

@BigFishAllDay if you ever get around to checking will you let me know. I was just about to pull the trigger on doing the upgrade because the runner really needs it with all the extra weight. But now I'm debating if it's worth buying a new wheel setup or buying spacers.

@ Zooroadbaja, most definitely man. Just keep an eye on this thread. I'll get around to doing it sooner or later AND take pictures so we can settle this issue once and for all.
 
@ Zooroadbaja, most definitely man. Just keep an eye on this thread. I'll get around to doing it sooner or later AND take pictures so we can settle this issue once and for all.

I mocked up the 13WL with rotors and the rim doesn't clear. I have the acorn style LC80 rims, and I'm using O'Reily calipers. I bought a 1/4" spacer which allowed the rim to clear the caliper, but now the studs are to short. So I'm going to buy longer studs. Hopefully that's it. I'm still thinking about getting 17's, because it's easier finding used race team tires in 17 then 16.
 
Yes, the Stealth 6 will clear the 231mm Tundra calipers as well as the Sport Edition calipers on the 4Runners. Both can be added to the list;):.

NICE!!!! I'll get both wheels added to the list. Thanks for the quick reply.

I mocked up the 13WL with rotors and the rim doesn't clear. I have the acorn style LC80 rims, and I'm using O'Reily calipers. I bought a 1/4" spacer which allowed the rim to clear the caliper, but now the studs are to short. So I'm going to buy longer studs. Hopefully that's it. I'm still thinking about getting 17's, because it's easier finding used race team tires in 17 then 16.

Zooroadbaja, thanks for the follow up info. You're experience is consistent w/what my research showed RE the LC 80 wheels and the 231's. I'm not sure what's going on w/J.B.'s setup. Maybe the Acorn & Washer style 80 series wheels are a little different when it comes to the wheel mounting surface??

I have the washer style lugs on my 80 series wheels, so I'll go ahead and try them on anyway just to see.

RE the decrease in thread engagement, have you considered ET (extended thread) lug nuts? They add about 1/4" of extra thread engagement. You just have to make sure they fit the bore for the lug holes. I'm running these ones:

Gorilla 41138ET $1.29 Chrome Lug Nuts E-T Ultra Tapered Mag Seat, Bulge Seat 3/4" Hex Head 12mm x 1.50 Thread

Gorilla Model # 41138ET, which fit the lug bore on my ProComp 8069's perfectly, and are a 3/4" drive.
 
I was thinking of doing the ET Black Splined Lugs, but then I'm looking at buying 27 of them, plus the socket. I might as well do the whole rig so they all match. The studs, are a $1 something, so $15 isn't that bad.

Also I wasn't sure if they would be enough, with the spacer and the rim it was basically flush with the tip of the stud.
 
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