Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[mrtucker80]

Not sure the fear is of the actual grinding of the wheel, grinding is not a big deal, I believe that the larger issue is that you are grinding material off of the forged wheel, in a concentric pattern around the load bearing portion of the wheel itself. I do not know of any failures, however, I sure wouldn't want to be the first to have to report that the center section of the wheel separated from the outer portion and caused some sort of accident. Additionally if that wheel did fail and damage your vehicle or any one else's or God forbid injure someone and your insurance company finds out that you modified the wheels in that manner, you are most likely going to be on the hook for all the claims that would result. Also, if you ever sell the vehicle, it should be disclosed to the buyer that the wheels have been modified.

Am I saying a failure will happen, No I am not, nor am I saying it will, but not knowing how the material properties or section properties have been changed by removing a 1/4" of material in that location, there is no way to know what, if any, damage may have been done to the wheel beyond the cosmetic. To each his own, but I would not grind on my wheels, nor would I suggest that anyone else grind on theirs, and I wouldn't buy a vehicle or a set of wheels that have been ground on.

With all that said, if you have the split 3's and are not looking for new wheels, I would suggest that you just use the 199 calipers. They clear the split 3's with no grinding, and still use the same larger Tundra rotors. Perhaps I am over-reacting, but 231s are not worth the risk to me, especially when the 199s are more than sufficient for most 3rd Gens on the road. If the 231s will fit, great, otherwise just go 199s and be done with it.

 

[JayRolla]

Not sure the fear is of the actual grinding of the wheel, grinding is not a big deal, I believe that the larger issue is that you are grinding material off of the forged wheel, in a concentric pattern around the load bearing portion of the wheel itself. I do not know of any failures, however, I sure wouldn't want to be the first to have to report that the center section of the wheel separated from the outer portion and caused some sort of accident. Additionally if that wheel did fail and damage your vehicle or any one else's or God forbid injure someone and your insurance company finds out that you modified the wheels in that manner, you are most likely going to be on the hook for all the claims that would result. Also, if you ever sell the vehicle, it should be disclosed to the buyer that the wheels have been modified.

Am I saying a failure will happen, No I am not, nor am I saying it will, but not knowing how the material properties or section properties have been changed by removing a 1/4" of material in that location, there is no way to know what, if any, damage may have been done to the wheel beyond the cosmetic. To each his own, but I would not grind on my wheels, nor would I suggest that anyone else grind on theirs, and I wouldn't buy a vehicle or a set of wheels that have been ground on.

With all that said, if you have the split 3's and are not looking for new wheels, I would suggest that you just use the 199 calipers. They clear the split 3's with no grinding, and still use the same larger Tundra rotors. Perhaps I am over-reacting, but 231s are not worth the risk to me, especially when the 199s are more than sufficient for most 3rd Gens on the road. If the 231s will fit, great, otherwise just go 199s and be done with it.

I just see balancing being an issue, but shouldnt be too bad. Not like you can keep it balanced when taking off the material but again its not much.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I see you did the first one and you mentioned doing the second one...but did you do all four of them? If not—how do you rotate your tires? Just curious.

I will eventually grind all four. I just rotated tires prior to this so ok for now. Will also be buying a spacer in case I ever do need to use the spare.

Not sure the fear is of the actual grinding of the wheel, grinding is not a big deal, I believe that the larger issue is that you are grinding material off of the forged wheel, in a concentric pattern around the load bearing portion of the wheel itself. I do not know of any failures, however, I sure wouldn't want to be the first to have to report that the center section of the wheel separated from the outer portion and caused some sort of accident. Additionally if that wheel did fail and damage your vehicle or any one else's or God forbid injure someone and your insurance company finds out that you modified the wheels in that manner, you are most likely going to be on the hook for all the claims that would result. Also, if you ever sell the vehicle, it should be disclosed to the buyer that the wheels have been modified.

Am I saying a failure will happen, No I am not, nor am I saying it will, but not knowing how the material properties or section properties have been changed by removing a 1/4" of material in that location, there is no way to know what, if any, damage may have been done to the wheel beyond the cosmetic. To each his own, but I would not grind on my wheels, nor would I suggest that anyone else grind on theirs, and I wouldn't buy a vehicle or a set of wheels that have been ground on.

With all that said, if you have the split 3's and are not looking for new wheels, I would suggest that you just use the 199 calipers. They clear the split 3's with no grinding, and still use the same larger Tundra rotors. Perhaps I am over-reacting, but 231s are not worth the risk to me, especially when the 199s are more than sufficient for most 3rd Gens on the road. If the 231s will fit, great, otherwise just go 199s and be done with it.

Totally understand your point. This was my decision and I understood any risks it might involve. However, if you pull off your wheel and take a look at the back you'll see the high point and there's really not much being taken off. I did not grind any surface beyond creating a flush surface. Basically, I did not grind anything thinner than the thinnest part already on the rim in order not to create a weak point. It is still completely structurally sound. There are plenty of wheels with much less material holding it together than these 3 split-spoke wheels.

I just see balancing being an issue, but shouldnt be too bad. Not like you can keep it balanced when taking off the material but again its not much.

Yeah, I made sure to take off materials completely uniformly. I would say the complete weight of all material taken off the wheel was about that 1/2 ounce, spread out over six separate areas. That's 1/16 an ounce per spoke. In contract, the smallest weight used to balance a tire is a 1/4 ounce weight.

Unless you're going crazy with that grinder, this has no impact on wheel balance. On a side note, I am getting the tires balanced but was for a pre-existing steering wobble I've been fighting. I did purposely wait until after I did the brakes though, since I was not sure how much material I would indeed have to take off.

 

[calithirteen]

Has anyone ordered the kit from rock auto? Has all power stop products.

I did. Got the refurbs and 6 months later one of the calipers went bad. Also had to go out and buy a new set of rotors because they sent rotors for a 5 lug set up. Rockauto replaced the rotor for free minus what I paid to ship it back and credited the rotors. Other than that they work fine.

 

[adkins]

I did. Got the refurbs and 6 months later one of the calipers went bad. Also had to go out and buy a new set of rotors because they sent rotors for a 5 lug set up. Rockauto replaced the rotor for free minus what I paid to ship it back and credited the rotors. Other than that they work fine.

Did you keep the calipers or was it worth shipping back? Do you remember how much shipping was if you sent them back?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Did you keep the calipers or was it worth shipping back? Do you remember how much shipping was if you sent them back?

It's worth sending them back. The shipping on the Power Stop Calipers I bought was $17, but the core deposit is $80 so totally worth it. Not like the old 4Runner ones are any good to me now anyway.

By the way, you can get Toyota rotors for $57.00 from Camelback or Toyota of Dallas. By far the best out there and pretty competitively priced.

 

[adkins]

It's worth sending them back. The shipping on the Power Stop Calipers I bought was $17, but the core deposit is $80 so totally worth it. Not like the old 4Runner ones are any good to me now anyway.

By the way, you can get Toyota rotors for $57.00 from Camelback or Toyota of Dallas. By far the best out there and pretty competitively priced.

Good deal. We toasted the brakes this past weekend. So we planned on doing the TBU real soon.

 

[Jhelms]

I went with the callahan full kit (callahan is powerstop / GREAT marketing name lol )

- Calipers are excellent visually with a pretty much flawless finish. Photo does not do them justice
- Rotors visually are excellent. Casting is as good as it gets. Heavy zinc plating. Time will tell if they are decent in the long run. Did not care for the drilled rotors but slotting is nice. Also - not surprising, the rotors have powerstops part number stamped into them (JBR935XL)
- No comment on pads as looking at them does not say anything. From reviews, I have no worries about them

I also picked up speed bleeders which work GREAT for a quick bleed / flush. Also adding in stainless lines from SLEE

 

[adkins]

I went with the callahan full kit (callahan is powerstop / GREAT marketing name lol )

- Calipers are excellent visually with a pretty much flawless finish. Photo does not do them justice
- Rotors visually are excellent. Casting is as good as it gets. Heavy zinc plating. Time will tell if they are decent in the long run. Did not care for the drilled rotors but slotting is nice. Also - not surprising, the rotors have powerstops part number stamped into them (JBR935XL)
- No comment on pads as looking at them does not say anything. From reviews, I have no worries about them

I also picked up speed bleeders which work GREAT for a quick bleed / flush. Also adding in stainless lines from SLEE

They look good. Guess ill order my callahan set soon. Forgot about speed bleeders.

 

[Jhelms]

The front bleeders are smaller on the tundra calipers. I purchased part number SB7100S-SS in stainless steel and for the rears, part number SB1010-SS

 

[BigFishAllDay]

This thread has taken on a life of it's own. It's like I created frankenstein or something.

 

[Jhelms]

Appreciate the post man!

 

[aawolf]

13WL needs different bleeder valve

I too just discovered that my 13WL calipers require different bleeder valves (fortunately, before I started taking anything apart!). The ones we purchase for our 4Runner calipers are actually too big.

We need:

Russell 639570 Speed Bleeder for the fronts

and

Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder for the backs

 

[absalom]

I'd like to speak to one person who's successfully bled their Tundra brakes to be as firm as stock. I'd then like their address and sleeping hours so that I may steal their truck.

 

[thebrandon]

My Tundra brakes feel just fine to me, plenty firm. I'm not too far from you so, I never sleep.

 

[JBurt]

My brother had his bled at a shop and they are much firmer than mine.

I may have it done at the next alignment, or buy a vacuum bleeder. I need to do something.

 

[adkins]

I just got everything ordered, but im curious which stainless lines i need from toytec. Do i go with the 4runner lines or the tundra lines? They are two different part numbers so they shouldnt be the same thing.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'd like to speak to one person who's successfully bled their Tundra brakes to be as firm as stock. I'd then like their address and sleeping hours so that I may steal their truck.

Yeah mine are doing just fine as well. Much firmer than my stock ones, but then again my pads and brakes were really bad.

I found this in the FSM that helped me out:

HINT:

If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the
brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.

When bleeding, keep the amount of the fluid within the
line of reservoir between Min. and Max.
NOTICE:

Do not let brake fluid remain on painted surfaces.
Wash it off immediately.

With the reservoir cap removed, when depressing the
brake pedal, the fluid will spray.
1. FILL RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS NO. 116 DOT3
2. In case of using TOYOTA hand-held tester:
BLEED HYDRAULIC BRAKE BOOSTER
HINT:
If the hydraulic brake booster has been disassembled, disconnect
the brake line from the hydraulic brake booster or if the reservoir
becomes empty, bleed the hydraulic brake booster.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal
more than 40 times.
HINT:
When a pressure in power supply system is released, reaction
force becomes heavy and stroke becomes shorter.
(b) Turn the ignition switch ON, check that the pump stops after
approx. 30 to 40 sec.NOTICE:
When the pump does not stop, repeat step (a) and (b) again.[/B](
c) With the ignition switch remained ON, depress the brake
pedal more than 20 times.(d) Observe the procedure in step 4 and bleed the right and
left front brake caliper.
(e) Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and
left rear brake caliper.
HINT:
It is not necessary to depress the pedal continuously, as brake
fluid flows out by first depressing.

I bled out even more air by following this. I had a strange noise when bleeding like air squealing in the master cylinder or something and this took care of it.

Also, bedding the brakes is huge. I did about 8 60 mph to 10 mph stops out in the country (without coming to a complete stop) and now they feel like a brand new truck.

 

[ukrunner]

I'm going to be doing this upgrade shortly with the split 3 spokes and the 1/4" spacer. Actually, I'm thinking of having the shop at work make me a set of 4 hub centric spacers out of aluminum and I'd get them anodized some ridiculous color like purple (to keep the g/f happy while I spend money.)
It seems like people are swapping the studs but I have no desire to do this. The only mention is to get better bite during wheel installation. If that's the only reason then I'll stick with the stock studs. 1/4 less thread in the nuts isn't going to make much of a difference regarding ability to hold torque. What is it, 2.5 - 3 threads? Thoughts?

 

[Chill will]

I just got everything ordered, but im curious which stainless lines i need from toytec. Do i go with the 4runner lines or the tundra lines? They are two different part numbers so they shouldnt be the same thing.

I ordered the 4Runner lines. The end connections are the same maybe just the length is different.