Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[paulmofyourhand]

Just did my tundra bbk! Thank you OP!
Centric Calipers 13WL from Amazon
Wagner Ceramic Pads
Toyota OEM tundra rotors as in the original post

 

[poleclimber63]

final say on trying to use the stock split-3's with the 231mm brake upgrade!

I've sourced some Tundra brake parts and now I want to get down to business. I came across an "answer" in one of my threads about running a 1/4" spacer:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167172-my-engine-swap-progress-7.html#post2015356

This guy didnt seem to have a problem with 1/4" spacer, so I went to order a couple and called Wheelers. Wheelers were helpful, however, the guy I talked to at Wheelers, told me he wasn't sure, but to be cautious and measure the hub "ring" depth to ensure there is enough depth left after the spacer to centre the rim on the hub.... he said most aftermarket rims are wheel centric and the stock rims are hub centric... using a 1/4" spacer may be an issue with stock rims... Wheelers suggested I run 1.25" Spidertrac spacers (torqued correctly he stressed) no stud cutting with no noticeable changes in handling=2.5" wider?? Anyways, I haven't had a chance to pull a tire off yet to measure, but I'm hoping someone can chime in?

As BFAD mentioned at the beginning of his thread, he really wanted to avoid running spacers---- there has been incidents of failures on this forum---- I agree, but I really don't want to have to replace 2 sets of rims. I've really delayed this mod long enough due to this reason!! Any feedback would be appreciated!

Most of us have the stock split-3's on our 4R's so here is the end result of my time trying to save some $$:
Well, I finally pulled off the front wheel and made some measurements. The guy from Wheelers was totally correct, not that I doubted him!

I was thinking of using a 1/4"(6.35mm) spacer to allow the stock split-3's to clear the 231mm calipers, which others have done(some have ground the rim as well), but:

...as the hub depth is 8.5mm and the bevel on the rim is 7mm, the hub to rim contact is a mere 1.5mm... If one was to place a 6.35mm spacer over the hub, the rim will no longer contact the hub and all the weight, as well as centring the rim on the hub, will be borne by the studs...

I should have measured this in the first place but talking to the right people and accessing resources (like T4R) helps one think these things through...its time for me to get some new rims. I really don't want to run 1.25" spacers!

 

[jeremyc74]

For anyone considering these Akebono pads from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1LLPA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

You have to really bed these pads in hard. I have been running them for several thousand miles, and while the performance was good, it wasn't shocking. A couple of weeks ago I was coming out of the mountains and noticed they were starting to smell a little on a long down grade (13%). This was one of the reasons I decided to do the brake upgrade, and I was a little disappointed that I hadn't completely cured the problem. By the bottom of the grade the brakes were badly faded (almost as bad as the ones I replaced), and I was a little pissed. I let them cool for about a minute, and then hammered them hard again to see how bad they were, and they seemed to have improved. I repeated this a few more times and the smell went away completely, and now the brakes are extremely good, to the point of easily activating the ABS on dry pavement. I repeated the same route the following day and had no smell or fading at all.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Most of us have the stock split-3's on our 4R's so here is the end result of my time trying to save some $$:
Well, I finally pulled off the front wheel and made some measurements. The guy from Wheelers was totally correct, not that I doubted him!

I was thinking of using a 1/4"(6.35mm) spacer to allow the stock split-3's to clear the 231mm calipers, which others have done(some have ground the rim as well), but:

...as the hub depth is 8.5mm and the bevel on the rim is 7mm, the hub to rim contact is a mere 1.5mm... If one was to place a 6.35mm spacer over the hub, the rim will no longer contact the hub and all the weight, as well as centring the rim on the hub, will be borne by the studs...

I should have measured this in the first place but talking to the right people and accessing resources (like T4R) helps one think these things through...its time for me to get some new rims. I really don't want to run 1.25" spacers!

Yeah, that's what's called a wheel-centric setup. All the weight is on the studs and not the hubs. It works, I suppose but you are much more likely to have vibrations or wheel balance issues. A hub-centric spacer like the 1.25" spacers create a new hub-centric but changes the handling a looks a bit. The other option you already figured out, new wheels that will handle the calipers much better.

 

[Taylor20]

FJ Cruiser 17" steel wheels can be added to the list of OEM wheels that clear these calipers

 

[Tackleberry]

Has anyone done the 231 upgrade with basic black 16" steel wheels?

 

[fpdavis4]

Just did this swap today! It went smoothly thanks to all the help in this thread. Great upgrade, highly recommended.

 

[drowssap]

Can't believe this is my first post. I am selling off a lot of my stuff and going back down to one vehicle. The best one of course! But I can't read through 40 something pages and did search on this topic..can anyone tell me if the calipers from a 2007 and up tundra work? I am aware of the lug pattern so no rotors...just want to know about calipers. Thanks and I will get to work on contributing to this awesome forum.

 

[JBurt]

They won't work.

 

[drowssap]

Thank you sir....I have a complete but totaled tundra in my garage and was hoping to canabalize some parts.

 

[Jhelms]

Just a followup - I have had my callahan setup for 10K with quite a bit of towing, brakes feel like the day I installed them - ZERO issues.

 

[calithirteen]

My brakes are much better with Toyota Tundra pads and rotors. Only concern now is that I think I might have another bad caliper. I'm starting to regret I ever used rock auto!

 

[4runninxit4]

Are genuine Toyota brakes pads the best option or is an aftermarket option better in terms of stopping and low noise because I have Toyota brake pads installed now my they are starting to screech with a lot of life left on the pads. Also should I avoid brake pads with tapered ends compared to the completely flat Toyota ones?Ive heard Wagner are very good but don't have any experience with them

 

[tx_shooter]

I have browsed what I believe to be at least 90% of this thread and cannot find a solid answer/number.

Would someone who has done the upgrade post a measurement from the center of the hub to the farther part of the caliper? I think this will be a lot easier for those of us with one-off or hard to find wheels to decide on if we can do this upgrade or not.

Just for the sake off conversation - I am currently running '96-'97 LX450 rims with no spacers and am looking to do the upgrade.

 

[jeremyc74]

I have browsed what I believe to be at least 90% of this thread and cannot find a solid answer/number.

Would someone who has done the upgrade post a measurement from the center of the hub to the farther part of the caliper? I think this will be a lot easier for those of us with one-off or hard to find wheels to decide on if we can do this upgrade or not.

Just for the sake off conversation - I am currently running '96-'97 LX450 rims with no spacers and am looking to do the upgrade.

It's not quiet that simple unfortunately. The interference depends on the contour where the spokes meet the rim more so than just the inside diameter. You can see what I'm talking about by looking at some of the pictures of where the three spoke wheels have to be ground on to make them work.

 

[Unner]

[MENTION=116833]4runninxit4[/MENTION]

I used Akebono ceramic pads with no issues, quiet, low dust, and they stop good. Cheaper than Toyota pads too

 

[tx_shooter]

It's not quiet that simple unfortunately. The interference depends on the contour where the spokes meet the rim more so than just the inside diameter. You can see what I'm talking about by looking at some of the pictures of where the three spoke wheels have to be ground on to make them work.

Understandable about their being a backspacing issue as well. But the wheels are not magic - there have to be basic numbers for radius and backspacing clearance that clear the calipers. If we could post those it would be a lot of help.

 

[poleclimber63]

Understandable about their being a backspacing issue as well. But the wheels are not magic - there have to be basic numbers for radius and backspacing clearance that clear the calipers. If we could post those it would be a lot of help.

I understand your need for hard numbers before you decide to do this mod. The thing is, Jeremyc74 is correct. I struggled with the facts for rim fitment myself and came to the conclusion I had 3 choices. 1, use spacers, 2 do the conversion and see if they fit after asking around... or 3, acquiring new rims that I know fit. option 1 was out, so I asked around, and it was clear my existing rims didn't fit. So I waited until rims became available when the opportunity presented themselves... as I had 2 sets of rims, this took sometime! To ensure the rims that appeared fit, I kept this thread handy but I also trolled for Tundra rims, as this is where the 231 calipers come from. My first set of rims came from a 2002 Ltd, and my second set are 17" from a Sequoia which i'm in the process of refinishing for Winter. I found Winter tires of a size very similar in diameter to my 16" tires but I understand the shorter crossection may affect the ride a little. We'll see.
It isn't so simple, the split 3 has the same backspacing (4 5/8") as the Ltd 5 spoke, but the split 3's don't fit and the 5 spokes do.... by looking at the inside its the angle of the spokes that matter. I haven't tried the Sequioa 17" rims on yet but, all the reading I've done tells me if I stick to a 265/65/17 (or sub 245/70/17) which has the same diameter as the stock 265/70/16, I should be ok. As far as backspacing, the Sequioa/Tundra 17" rims have a backspacing of 4 7/8". I've read that the largest tire on a 17" rim that will fit without rubbing is 265/70/17... 1" greater in diameter. I will see!!

 

[4runninxit4]

I just had my tbu redone. Originally I thought my passenger side caliper was bad because it would pull that way on braking. Turns out both Napa front calipers were bad. Maybe just a coincidence but I went with advanced this time. I went with Wagner thermo quiet for the fronts and for the rear drums, now I really know how the tbu is supposed to feel. I think the place that did the install last time messed something up because I was never impressed with the upgrade, but they feel much stronger now. I also had the stainless steel brake lines from wheelers off-road installed. Steve Crawford helped me out a lot and was great to work with and made sure my rear lines were extended for my lift and compatible with vsc (01-02) 4runners. While I was at it I got some bleeders from speed bleeder and they worked perfectly. It's amazing how much of a difference strong brakes can make.

 

[gergg]

I just had my tbu redone. Originally I thought my passenger side caliper was bad because it would pull that way on braking. Turns out both Napa front calipers were bad. Maybe just a coincidence but I went with advanced this time. I went with Wagner thermo quiet for the fronts and for the rear drums, now I really know how the tbu is supposed to feel. I think the place that did the install last time messed something up because I was never impressed with the upgrade, but they feel much stronger now. I also had the stainless steel brake lines from wheelers off-road installed. Steve Crawford helped me out a lot and was great to work with and made sure my rear lines were extended for my lift and compatible with vsc (01-02) 4runners. While I was at it I got some bleeders from speed bleeder and they worked perfectly. It's amazing how much of a difference strong brakes can make.

Interesting, I just noticed my TBU will twitch/pull left when brakes are first applied medium pressure or harder, not bad, but doesn't feel right and I didn't notice it until yesterday....how do you determine if the calipers are bad? By the way, my calipers came from Advanced Auto...lol