Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

Interesting, I just noticed my TBU will twitch/pull left when brakes are first applied medium pressure or harder, not bad, but doesn't feel right and I didn't notice it until yesterday....how do you determine if the calipers are bad? By the way, my calipers came from Advanced Auto...lol

That's what mine were doing and only periodically. My buddy has a shop and they tested the calipers and on both of them they had a bad piston, but I'm not sure exactly how he did determine it. If these fail prematurely then I will try to find some Toyota ones at a junk yard and rebuild them since my 4Runner isn't my daily anymore. I have 33's and I guess I just got used to how it was driving before but it's night and day now I can't believe I waited so long to fix it.
 

I got around to putting the vsc stainless line on today but I couldn't use the clips to hold it to the bracket. Has anyone found a bracket that can go underneath and slide on the top so it won't move?
 
Go with Advance or Autozone calipers

Visiting and comparing the Advance auto and autozone calipers. I notice the Advance calipers have no retaining ring around the dust cover and the Autozone does. The Autozone pistons look to be pitted and made out of the same steel as the caliper itself, unlike the Advance one that has the chrome look to it. I also notice the Advance calipers were heavier then the Autozone calipers. Also would it be better to paint these before install or just install them with out worry's to rusting. Would like to get feed back on both of these before I make a decision on which one to get, thanks.
 
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Thanks for posting this. It made getting the correct parts much easier. Thought I would post a picture of the 231s under some split 3 spoke rims. Did a little grinding to the calipers and rims. This is one of the biggest upgrades I have done for the truck. The bigger brakes have smoothed out the crazy front end shake.

Any ideas how much grinding is involved? Or just move up to the 199s? Or maybe spacers? I really need to do my brakes soon and would like the upgrade while I'm Going.

Pics didn't come. But they are back on pg 4.
 
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Any ideas how much grinding is involved? Or just move up to the 199s? Or maybe spacers? I really need to do my brakes soon and would like the upgrade while I'm Going.

Pics didn't come. But they are back on pg 4.

It's not a ton of grinding, but some. I would not grind the caliper, someone else tried that and when he tried using the brakes the fluid burst through the area he grinded.

If you look a few pages back you'll find my photos on where I ground the wheels down. It's a little bit of trial and error until you figure out the right spot. But if you're on a budget and can't spring $300+ for new wheels or spacers it'll work just fine.

Ok, more than a few pages back: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...wl-tundra-calipers-rotors-39.html#post1975561
 
It's not a ton of grinding, but some. I would not grind the caliper, someone else tried that and when he tried using the brakes the fluid burst through the area he grinded.

If you look a few pages back you'll find my photos on where I ground the wheels down. It's a little bit of trial and error until you figure out the right spot. But if you're on a budget and can't spring $300+ for new wheels or spacers it'll work just fine.

Ok, more than a few pages back: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...wl-tundra-calipers-rotors-39.html#post1975561

If all you had to grind was about 1/4 inch. I might just drop a couple bucks on spacers and call it a day. Just my luck I'd grind to much and get my wheels all outta balance.
 
If all you had to grind was about 1/4 inch. I might just drop a couple bucks on spacers and call it a day. Just my luck I'd grind to much and get my wheels all outta balance.

I did have my tires balanced after I did it, I bet they had some odd looks at it when they too my wheel off.

Be careful with those washer-type spacers. Some are ok, but some are not. I do have a set of spacers in my trunk if I ever have to use the spare, but they are emergency use only for me.
 
Ordered parts to do my brake upgrade today. Along with some 1 1/4 spacers, so no grinding. Wish me luck, it's been awhile since I changed calipers out. Also ordered a new set of bell crank levers for the rear, so maybe I can get that end of the truck working as well.
 
I got tired of reading, sorry if I missed it but: are the caliper pistons on the 13 WL the same diameter as stock? More fluid capacity just from extra width? Otherwise bias would change.
 
stock rims

anybody know if these rims will work with the 231mm upgrade?attachment.php
 

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Brakes are killing me

Alright guys,

I have been searching on and off for almost a year on how to fix my break problem. So please don't just say to search. I have...A LOT!

I have the 231mm Tundra breaks with high carbon steel rotors and ceramic pads. I have done regular rotors and metallic pads as well as high carbon steel and regular metallic pads. No matter the combination I get an awful vibration in a matter of weeks if not a week. Its like the rotors warp but I don't know how. I drive multiple vehicles frequently and others over the years and never warped those. and before I did the swap I never had an issue.
It also depends on the pressure on the peddle. If I am light on the peddle or really laying into it it is okay, in the middle it'll rattle fillings out of your head.
Its an 01 SR5 4wd, upgraded brake lines, abs, vsc & trac, plus the tires are definitely balanced and the rig is allied correctly. This happened when I was doing a lot of city, highway or highway traffic driving.

Can anyone help me solve this GOD AWFUL vibration that happens.
 
Alright guys,

I have been searching on and off for almost a year on how to fix my break problem. So please don't just say to search. I have...A LOT!

I have the 231mm Tundra breaks with high carbon steel rotors and ceramic pads. I have done regular rotors and metallic pads as well as high carbon steel and regular metallic pads. No matter the combination I get an awful vibration in a matter of weeks if not a week. Its like the rotors warp but I don't know how. I drive multiple vehicles frequently and others over the years and never warped those. and before I did the swap I never had an issue.
It also depends on the pressure on the peddle. If I am light on the peddle or really laying into it it is okay, in the middle it'll rattle fillings out of your head.
Its an 01 SR5 4wd, upgraded brake lines, abs, vsc & trac, plus the tires are definitely balanced and the rig is allied correctly. This happened when I was doing a lot of city, highway or highway traffic driving.

Can anyone help me solve this GOD AWFUL vibration that happens.

Did this happen right after the brake upgrade? Has all the front suspension components been addressed. Lower, upper ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, steerring rack, bushings? Bad wheel bearings can cause vibration also.

If its good for the first few weeks I would think crap brake parts. Have you tried OEM?
 
I would not suspect the brakes at this point. Look to your suspension and steering components for slop or play that could be causing the vibration.
 
I would not suspect the brakes at this point. Look to your suspension and steering components for slop or play that could be causing the vibration.

I have and I am tracking down those demons as I can. The steering slope seems to be relegated to the steering shaft, However and this is important; It does not happen when the brakes are band new, the road does not affect if it vibrates and as I vary peddle pressure the vibration can either not be there at all or be like riding a down a gavel road in a low rider.
With all those factors I do not see how steering play would be the cause of this issue. (I still plan to track them down and fix them though)

Did this happen right after the brake upgrade? Has all the front suspension components been addressed. Lower, upper ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, steerring rack, bushings? Bad wheel bearings can cause vibration also.

If its good for the first few weeks I would think crap brake parts. Have you tried OEM?

It did not happen before the brakes were swapped over. I even had a problem with this on my '97 when I had it.

Yes, all the suspension components are less then 2 years old. The only items down there that I haven't replaced are the Steering Rack itself and the bushings on the lower control arms. I even have LR UCA.

No, I am hesitant to try them cause it just doesn't make sense that this many pair of brake pads and rotors would be bad. I have put these pads and rotors on many different cars and never had this issue. It leads me to believe it is an issue with something related to the vehicle itself.
 
I have and I am tracking down those demons as I can. The steering slope seems to be relegated to the steering shaft, However and this is important; It does not happen when the brakes are band new, the road does not affect if it vibrates and as I vary peddle pressure the vibration can either not be there at all or be like riding a down a gavel road in a low rider.
With all those factors I do not see how steering play would be the cause of this issue. (I still plan to track them down and fix them though)



It did not happen before the brakes were swapped over. I even had a problem with this on my '97 when I had it.

Yes, all the suspension components are less then 2 years old. The only items down there that I haven't replaced are the Steering Rack itself and the bushings on the lower control arms. I even have LR UCA.

No, I am hesitant to try them cause it just doesn't make sense that this many pair of brake pads and rotors would be bad. I have put these pads and rotors on many different cars and never had this issue. It leads me to believe it is an issue with something related to the vehicle itself.

You say it only happens about a week after the brakes are replaced.....seems like the only variable that makes sense is that your wheels are not being re-torqued after a week?
 
I have and I am tracking down those demons as I can. The steering slope seems to be relegated to the steering shaft, However and this is important; It does not happen when the brakes are band new, the road does not affect if it vibrates and as I vary peddle pressure the vibration can either not be there at all or be like riding a down a gavel road in a low rider.
With all those factors I do not see how steering play would be the cause of this issue. (I still plan to track them down and fix them though)



It did not happen before the brakes were swapped over. I even had a problem with this on my '97 when I had it.

Yes, all the suspension components are less then 2 years old. The only items down there that I haven't replaced are the Steering Rack itself and the bushings on the lower control arms. I even have LR UCA.

No, I am hesitant to try them cause it just doesn't make sense that this many pair of brake pads and rotors would be bad. I have put these pads and rotors on many different cars and never had this issue. It leads me to believe it is an issue with something related to the vehicle itself.

Well you can only fix what you have up front. You have already done most. All thats left is make sure tires are balanced and tight. I would do the LCA bushings. Im doing mine this weekend. It causes a major pull to the right when braking.

The reason I mention OEM is because many people mention death wobble when running non OEM parts. Not many complain about OEM pads, shims and rotors. I have them and no issues. I have done everything up front including rack. I hope you also used OEM parts on all those suspension parts. Could also be the issue if you didnt.
 

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