Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[Srt4runner]

Napa calipers have a great following here. Been running mine for 9k miles and 5 months with no issues. OEM from Toyota are very very expensive. I try to run OEM as much as possible, but it wasn't feasible with these, so I went for the second best option in my opinion.

One of my Napa calipers started leaking after 2 years and around 12k miles, see my thread here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/208935-tundra-brake-caliper-leaked-brake-fluid-all-over-pads-replace-clean-pads.html

Maybe I'm just unlucky. I'm going to replace it with another napa caliper and see what happens.

 

[dirteater4]

I looked but didn't find out if 16" FJ TRD rims would clear the 231mm upgrade. Anyone?

 

[papabear1126]

Other Aftermarket caliper fits 16" split spoke

Are there any other aftermarket 231 calipers that will fit the 16" split spoke rims?

 

[poleclimber63]

Done.

Wow, with a couple of thousand miles on the truck since my upgrade, braking is firm and precise! Great upgrade!! Here is the latest pic with my re-finished 17" Sequoia rims, Tundra brakes and Winters....

 

[Unner]

One of my Napa calipers started leaking after 2 years and around 12k miles, see my thread here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/208935-tundra-brake-caliper-leaked-brake-fluid-all-over-pads-replace-clean-pads.html

Maybe I'm just unlucky. I'm going to replace it with another napa caliper and see what happens.

11k miles on mine with no issues other than a broken anti-rattle spring. Apparently the aftermarket ones are cheap and break easily, I picked up a cheap duralast one to get me through the weekend and ordered some OEM ones just incase I have to replace them again.

I looked but didn't find out if 16" FJ TRD rims would clear the 231mm upgrade. Anyone?

[MENTION=113851]dirteater4[/MENTION]

Yes, they should clear. I almost ran those wheels and did a lot of research and posted a thread on it.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/196149-trd-wheels-tundra-brake-upgrade.html

 

[tors10]

I have both sets of calipers (WE & WL) sitting in my garage waiting to be rebuilt. Before I commit to a caliper, and buy the rebuild kit and pads, I have a few thoughts and questions rolling around in my head that I'm hoping to have answered.

Let me start by saying that my stock brakes are in good order, the pedal feels firm, and the truck stops as well as I would expect. I've decided to upgrade because I intend on towing a bit more next year, and hope to avoid the inevidable rotor warp.

1. The first question I have is regarding claims of better braking performance, or what I translated as shorter stopping distance. Is this for real, or just the owner's perception based on a comparison of new brakes replacing old worn out brakes? In my mind, not sure it's reality, if I hit my brakes and can engage ABS, braking performance becomes more dependant on tires?

2. Another (BIG) concern I have with upgrading to the WL is based on more than a few comments of a soft (mushy) brake pedal. This would be a deal killer for me. Is this a product of the caliper's larger fluid capacity, or do the brakes just need to be re-bled?

I guess where I'm trying to go with these questions is, if most of the benefit to upgrading the calipers comes from the ability to use the larger rotor, and the WE has less fluid capacity than the WL, maybe providing for a firmer brake peddle, would perhaps the WE be a good compromise for me?

Thanks!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I bought a used set of tundra rotors and calipers from a guy close to me parting out his Runner down near Blue Ball, PA. It sat in a box for a while. Then I seen the rubber lines on the front were cracked and needed replaced. This was a good time as any to install the tundra parts since the system was going to be apart. All I can say is Damm Good.

He had the calipers already ground for rim clearance. But I had to do a little more for my rims. No biggy.

I'm sure the brakes would have firmed up just replacing the front lines. But it's a firm Big Toe braking now.

 

[BoneStockT4R]

Tire rub from Spidertrax spacers?

Greetings all -

I'm looking for input from anyone that's used larger spacers with the TBU (and doesn't also have a lift or other suspension mods).

Does a 1.25" spacer (specifically, I'm thinking about the 1.25" option from Spider Trax) introduce any wheel rub issues for stock trucks?

I've a stock '99 T4R SR5, on 16" split-3 spoke wheels and standard sized tires, that will become my daughter's first car in another year or two, so consistent stopping power is a top priority. I'm very interested in the 231mm upgrade to maximize braking, but don't want to grind the wheels or calipers...leaving spacers as the next option. I don't like the shortened lug and hub-centric concerns that come with a 1/4" spacer, so am looking at the thicker bolt-on options.

I'm searching for the 5-spoke wheels in parallel, but if I can't find anything and hear that the spacers cause rubbing issues, requiring more mods to resolve, I'll likely settle for the 199mm option...

Anyone have experience with spacers and no other mods?

 

[JBurt]

I've got .75" bora spacers with the same wheels. Been running this setup for a few thousand miles with no problem. 1.25"would work fine

 

[Grey-Thunder]

Nice thread, great information! This upgrade is definitely going on my to do list.

 

[absalom]

Just wanted to get this out there before I forgot. I struggled with bleeding the brakes and regaining proper pedal pressure after this mod for a few months, but finally figured out a method to getting rock hard pedal feel, 100% of the time (75% of the time).

1. Thouroughly bed the brakes as described in OP's first post
2. Exercise the ABS actuators - Find a loose gravel surface, and do several panic stops so that your ABS engages
3. Drive truck home, turn it off, remove key, and depress brake pedal approx 40 times. This will remove all built up pressure in brake booster.
4. Bleed brakes. Technique is crucial here. We've all been trained the same way: Pump 3-5 times fast and hard and yell down. The person at the caliper opens the bleeder, and the pedal operator (usually a woman) depresses the pedal to the floor. Instead, we're going to change it up a little bit. Instead of pumping the brakes, which creates thousands of micro-bubbles in the lines, we'll adopt a new work flow:
5. Pedal operator will place firm, not hard, pressure on the pedal. Bleeder operator, when ready, will yell "DOWN" and then crack the bleeder. The order is crucial here. Once the pedal operator reaches the end of their pedal stroke, they will yell "DOWN". The bleeder operator will immediately close off their nipple, and yell "UP". The pedal operator will then slowly release pressure on the brake pedal, yelling "UP" when the pedal reaches the top of it's travel. The cycle will then repeat itself.
6. It's crucial that the pedal is never pumped; even to check progress during the procedure. Pumping the pedal will introduce micro bubbles, requiring the process to be repeated once the bubbles have regathered.
7. Our goal here is fluid exchange, and lots of it. An air, and water-free, brake line are simply the byproduct of this flush.
8. This only applies to the fronts on many 3rd gens, as the rear calipers are motor driven, and bleed in a different fashion.
9. You're finished. Why is this even a numbered list anyways?

 

[peytokristen]

Are there any other aftermarket 231 calipers that will fit the 16" split spoke rims?

I just did this upgrade last night on my 96 T4R. I went with the package Rock Auto sells for the Tundra "towing and truck" setup: all Powerstop brand 231mm calipers, drilled and slotted rotors, and ceramic/carbon fiber pads. Everything went on great.

My problem is after researching I thought I had the 6 spoke wheels. Turns out I have the 3 spoke split wheels and they won't bolt up without hitting the caliper.

I don't want to grind my wheels down and have some 1.25" spacers on my shelf taken off one of my Landcruiser that I could use.

I really didn't like running the spacers on the Landcruiser so I'm not wanting to run them on the 4runner.

I have searched and searched but can't find a whole lot of info about the 1/4" spacers..... Other than that you "may" not have enough stud threads left to mount up the wheels. Some people have bought new lug nuts that don't fit but no one, that I can find, has bought ones that actually work right.

Can anyone answer some of my questions about the 1/4" spacers??

1. Has anyone fitted these up with stock lug nuts and had any success? If so, were they deep enough to center the rotor as they should?

2. Has anyone bought the extended thread lug nuts that worked and fit with the factory wheel?

My rig is currently on stands sitting in my shop while I figure out which direction to go with it.

Any thoughts/advice is appreciated.

 

[peytokristen]

Greetings all -

I'm looking for input from anyone that's used larger spacers with the TBU (and doesn't also have a lift or other suspension mods).

Does a 1.25" spacer (specifically, I'm thinking about the 1.25" option from Spider Trax) introduce any wheel rub issues for stock trucks?

I've a stock '99 T4R SR5, on 16" split-3 spoke wheels and standard sized tires, that will become my daughter's first car in another year or two, so consistent stopping power is a top priority. I'm very interested in the 231mm upgrade to maximize braking, but don't want to grind the wheels or calipers...leaving spacers as the next option. I don't like the shortened lug and hub-centric concerns that come with a 1/4" spacer, so am looking at the thicker bolt-on options.

I'm searching for the 5-spoke wheels in parallel, but if I can't find anything and hear that the spacers cause rubbing issues, requiring more mods to resolve, I'll likely settle for the 199mm option...

Anyone have experience with spacers and no other mods?

I'm working on this right now with my rig sitting on stands in the garage. Trying to find out my best solution, either 1.25" or 1/4" spacers?

Following.

 

[BoneStockT4R]

Thanks JBurt for your response, but I see you're also running a 2" lift and I'm thinking that helps eliminate potential rub issues... so I'm not totally convinced.

I've since found a set of 5-spoke/"5 star" wheels from a local junkyard ($350 for a set of 5...hoping to get most of that back when I sell my split-3's) that I'll paint up and try out over the holidays.

Peytokristen - If you've got the 1.25" spacers handy, why not throw them on and see if you have any wheel rub issues? By all accounts, they should be safe enough to run until you've figured out a longer term solution.

 

[Bijan]

I am trying to avoid spacers on this rig at all costs

May I ask why?
What are the disadvantages?

 

[poleclimber63]

i had the same problem

I just did this upgrade last night on my 96 T4R. I went with the package Rock Auto sells for the Tundra "towing and truck" setup: all Powerstop brand 231mm calipers, drilled and slotted rotors, and ceramic/carbon fiber pads. Everything went on great.

My problem is after researching I thought I had the 6 spoke wheels. Turns out I have the 3 spoke split wheels and they won't bolt up without hitting the caliper.

I don't want to grind my wheels down and have some 1.25" spacers on my shelf taken off one of my Landcruiser that I could use.

I really didn't like running the spacers on the Landcruiser so I'm not wanting to run them on the 4runner.

I have searched and searched but can't find a whole lot of info about the 1/4" spacers..... Other than that you "may" not have enough stud threads left to mount up the wheels. Some people have bought new lug nuts that don't fit but no one, that I can find, has bought ones that actually work right.

Can anyone answer some of my questions about the 1/4" spacers??

1. Has anyone fitted these up with stock lug nuts and had any success? If so, were they deep enough to center the rotor as they should?

2. Has anyone bought the extended thread lug nuts that worked and fit with the factory wheel?

My rig is currently on stands sitting in my shop while I figure out which direction to go with it.

Any thoughts/advice is appreciated.

I had 2 sets of split 3s! I called Wheelers off road, who stock 1/4" spacers and talked to the tech support guy. He said if I'm running the stock rims, which are hub centric, i'll loose hub contact with the 1/4" spacer, therefore, he said they aren't suited but the 1.25" would be the way to go. I'm not crazy about using spacers due to the documented failures here, so bit the bullet as acquired 2 sets, refinished/painted them and sold my split 3s. It took time but I came out almost even. I'm running Sequoia 17 in the winter and LTD 16 in the summer. I've posted pics in this thread. Good luck!

 

[JBurt]

Thanks JBurt for your response, but I see you're also running a 2" lift and I'm thinking that helps eliminate potential rub issues... so I'm not totally convinced.

I've since found a set of 5-spoke/"5 star" wheels from a local junkyard ($350 for a set of 5...hoping to get most of that back when I sell my split-3's) that I'll paint up and try out over the holidays.

Peytokristen - If you've got the 1.25" spacers handy, why not throw them on and see if you have any wheel rub issues? By all accounts, they should be safe enough to run until you've figured out a longer term solution.

that's a good way to go.

The rubbing doesn't occur from the tire against the body, so the lift is doing nothing there.

The rubbing occurs from the wheel contacting the brake caliper, which is why a spacer or grinding is required with those wheels.

That being said you've found a good solution.

 

[JBurt]

May I ask why?
What are the disadvantages?

https://www.google.com/search?q=whe...X&ved=0ahUKEwjlvMLE0dvJAhUU02MKHYWkCosQsAQICwThis.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Grind the caliper to clear the rim. I have a picture posted here somewhere.

 

[peytokristen]

Grind the caliper to clear the rim. I have a picture posted here somewhere.

I just put the 1/4" spacers on mine. Fitted up perfectly with about 1/8" clearance. $5 ea. From Wheelers.