TechWrench
Senior Member
ysrsquid said:
Hope it all goes well.
Has anyone pulled V6 engine from 4th Gen 4Runner?
- Thread starter ysrsquid
- Start date
Hope it all goes well.
ysrsquid
Member
OK just a test to see if I can upload pictures into my post. Success! Seems to work just like described in thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19549
In general, this isn't a view that most people want of thier recently purchased 4Runner. This is the driveshaft tunnel with the transmission dropped down.
Here's my handy-dandy A/C condensor protector. Overkill... maybe but at least I won't be hitting the condensor as the engine comes out.
In general, this isn't a view that most people want of thier recently purchased 4Runner. This is the driveshaft tunnel with the transmission dropped down.
Here's my handy-dandy A/C condensor protector. Overkill... maybe but at least I won't be hitting the condensor as the engine comes out.
Fro-Runner
New member
Yeah, I was thinking the same exact thing except using the current V8 4.7L setup. You have ONE problem by going this route. You stated that you have the 2004 V6 Limited edition. If I am correct, all 03-04 V6 Runners came with the 3rd generation 4-speed transmission. The 05's and beyond come with the same 5-speed tranny as the V8's.RickyCRX said:
By doing this engine swap, you would have to update your ECM to recognize the new shift points. This is where you are in luck as the 02-06 Sequoia's used the same 4-speed tranny as our 03-04 V6 Runners.
You would probably have to do an update on the MAP air flow sensor, etc to keep the CEL from coming on. Then again....... this computer may just be smart enough to relearn the parameters of the new V8 and match the old trusty 4-speed tranny with it. This might be probable since you will have the battery disconnected for a period of time.
If it was me, as I hate the way my V6 engine ticks and rattles like a 50 ft. tall grandfather clock, I'd opt to buy a 4.7L V8 and use the Sequoia's manual to see the bolt setup for the engine to tranny. You will now have the oil filter located under your engine instead of on top.
Good luck in your overhaul or engine replacement..... whichever route you choose. I hope this never happens to me!
ysrsquid
Member
Man I just want to get the truck running again. I'll save the engine swaps for one of my other cars.
Hopefully I have the time to get the motor out this weekend. If so, I'll begin to see 'the damage'.
My wife asked me what I was planning on getting her for Valentine's Day. I was thinking of gift wrapping the failed bearings and putting a bow on them.
Anyway, I'll post pictures when I find the damage. Later, Dave
Hopefully I have the time to get the motor out this weekend. If so, I'll begin to see 'the damage'.
My wife asked me what I was planning on getting her for Valentine's Day. I was thinking of gift wrapping the failed bearings and putting a bow on them.
Anyway, I'll post pictures when I find the damage. Later, Dave
ysrsquid
Member
Update - Motor Out. Let the fun begin
Well the motor came out yesterday. I'm glad that I pulled the transmission because I think that in the long term it made the engine comeout easier. BTW, I left the exhuast on. I also unbolted the air shocks for the hood (and removed some small trim panels at the rear corners of the hood) to get the clearance needed to remove the engine.
I also pulled the oil pan to begin searching for the damage. Once the oilpan came off I was immediately greeted with lots of metal shavings.
I checked the rod bearings because that's where I was expecting the damage. The rod bearings were bad but there was no damage to the crank. That's where the good news ends unfortunately.
I pulled the rear main bearing cap this morning. The bearing had spun and eaten the crank and the main cap. At this point I don't even know if the bottom end of the motor is salvageable. I haven't looked at any of the other main bearings but I guess I've now got a pretty good baseline of the damage.
Well the motor came out yesterday. I'm glad that I pulled the transmission because I think that in the long term it made the engine comeout easier. BTW, I left the exhuast on. I also unbolted the air shocks for the hood (and removed some small trim panels at the rear corners of the hood) to get the clearance needed to remove the engine.
I also pulled the oil pan to begin searching for the damage. Once the oilpan came off I was immediately greeted with lots of metal shavings.
I checked the rod bearings because that's where I was expecting the damage. The rod bearings were bad but there was no damage to the crank. That's where the good news ends unfortunately.
I pulled the rear main bearing cap this morning. The bearing had spun and eaten the crank and the main cap. At this point I don't even know if the bottom end of the motor is salvageable. I haven't looked at any of the other main bearings but I guess I've now got a pretty good baseline of the damage.
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Bluto
New member
Sorry to read and see the bad news. If you need to look for parts or a replacement ....
http://www.car-part.com
I hope everything works out.
http://www.car-part.com
I hope everything works out.
ysrsquid
Member
Bluto said:
Bluto, That's an awesome link for finding an engine. I had come across a couple of engines (ebay, other sources) but nothing in Texas. Everything was in North or NE.
I haven't given up on the engine yet. I took the spun bearing and cap to my buddy's shop and his analysis was "Not that bad." He recommended taking the crank (which will need to be turned) and the caps down to a machine shop in S. Austin for thier analysis of the damage to main journal of motor. Hopefully the motor doesn't have to be align bored.
So at this point I am disassembling bottom end to get the crank out. I got the timing cover off last night but I haven't taken off the timing chain.
Questions:
1 - How is the main timing chain removed?
Answer - Remove Tension from Tension Assy. Remove center idler pully.
2 - How is tension placed back in the chain during reassembly?
Answer. Turn latching mechanism. Push the piston back in.
3 - Is there a specific tool for removing the main bearing caps? They're almost pressed into the block...
Answer - Nope. Manual says to pry out with screwdriver. Just don't bugger up mating surfaces.
Thanks,
Dave
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ysrsquid
Member
HOLY CR@P! I just got my copy of the Maintence manual RM1059U2 and I am completely impressed with the information.
I have pulled the motor from my 4Runner and gotten through most of the disassembly without any technical information. The Toyota manual answers all of the questions that I had during the disassembly of the truck. The manual answers all of the questions that I have about finish the disassembling the motor. It also includes awesome information about standard bearing sizes that are very important to me now that I have a spun rear main bearing and buggered up rear main bearing cap. Before reading the manual I would have never known that Toyota has 5 standard main bearing sizes based on tolerence stackup. Who would of known that the outer bearings (#1 and #4) are bigger and that the inner bearings (#2 and #3) are smaller main bearings? I sure didn't... but now I know!
I think that I actually smell success.
I have pulled the motor from my 4Runner and gotten through most of the disassembly without any technical information. The Toyota manual answers all of the questions that I had during the disassembly of the truck. The manual answers all of the questions that I have about finish the disassembling the motor. It also includes awesome information about standard bearing sizes that are very important to me now that I have a spun rear main bearing and buggered up rear main bearing cap. Before reading the manual I would have never known that Toyota has 5 standard main bearing sizes based on tolerence stackup. Who would of known that the outer bearings (#1 and #4) are bigger and that the inner bearings (#2 and #3) are smaller main bearings? I sure didn't... but now I know!
I think that I actually smell success.
ysrsquid
Member
loner said:
Loner,
Hopefully my story will give hope to the next guy who's motor gets trashed. It wasn't Toyota's fault. In fact, during the teardown of this truck I been very impressed with the overall design of the truck. I have pulled the drivetrain and almost completely torn apart the motor with simple hand tools. I am a Manufacturing Engineer so I really like the work that has gone into designing this truck. It kinda makes me want to go down to San Antonio and get a job at the new Toyota plant.
Anyway, I have taken the past couple of nights off. I still have to finish pulling the crank out so that I can take it to the machinist to get an idea if the crank and main journals are still servicable. I expect to finish pulling the crank this weekend. So far I only have the rear main bearing out.... the one that spun. Even though I haven't pulled any more bearings it looks like the front (#1 bearing) is good. From the metal that I found in the pan I expect to find 1 more failed bearing.
Here's a picture that represents all of the metal flakes in the oil. The picture is of one of the cams. Its pretty amazing that the oil (where it is thick) just looks ugly brown. But when the oil is thin (like on the cam lobes) you can see all of the metal that is entrapped in the oil. I'm not sure if all of these metal flakes came out of the oil pan (the motor was upside down for several days while I was checking the rod bearings) or if these flakes were just sitting in the head or in the oil. Either way, it is pretty suprising to see so much metal floating around in the oil. It sure looks like it would do an excellent job at polishing down surfaces.
So while I am tearing down the motor this is just another variable in the decision to completely teardown or replace the motor....
Anyway, crank comes out this weekend. Later, Dave
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ysrsquid
Member
So this is just a continuation of the previous post. The picture below is looking into the aluminum 'structural' oil pan. The engine is spun over and the small black 'stamped steel' oil pan has been removed. From this view you can see where the rear main bearing has been spit onto the side of the oil pan (circled in red). Also in this view you can see the metallic sludge which is also shown on the camshaft (in previous posting above). I have no idea how this sludge ended up on the top suface of the oil pan, but there it is.
Even though though this picture shows significant metal contamination the lower stamped steel oil pan really had a lot of metal bits. All of the metal in the lower oil pan (not shown) is what has me concerned that there is another main bearing that has failed. For example, there are strips of metal from the oil pan that are 3" long.
Even though though this picture shows significant metal contamination the lower stamped steel oil pan really had a lot of metal bits. All of the metal in the lower oil pan (not shown) is what has me concerned that there is another main bearing that has failed. For example, there are strips of metal from the oil pan that are 3" long.
ysrsquid
Member
And for anyone who wants to look at the detail of thier V6 engine without actually pulling the motor out of thier truck.
I wish that this photo did justice to the complexity of the aluminum block casting. I haven't scaled the picture down just in case you want to browse through the details.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/ysr_squid/toyotablockfullsize.jpg
I wish that this photo did justice to the complexity of the aluminum block casting. I haven't scaled the picture down just in case you want to browse through the details.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/ysr_squid/toyotablockfullsize.jpg
ysrsquid
Member
Day 80 of Ordeal.
Crankshaft out. I was able to pull the crankshaft out of block with heads and pistons/rods still installed. I got down to the last few rod bolts and I was really wandering if I could actually get the crank out without damaging a valve by pushing a piston into a valve.
As I pulled the mains off I found a 2nd spun bearing. This is main #3 which is also spun. Note the bearings are spun and offset. You can also see some metal shavings between the bearing surface and the crank.
Here's the same main after crank has been removed. Notice all of the metal in the oil journal.
Here's a picture of the engine after the crankshaft has been removed. I used zip ties to hold the rods in place and keep them from dropping as I removed the crankshaft.
Next Up: Determine replacement bearing sizes and take crank to machinist to fix mains #2 and #3.
Crankshaft out. I was able to pull the crankshaft out of block with heads and pistons/rods still installed. I got down to the last few rod bolts and I was really wandering if I could actually get the crank out without damaging a valve by pushing a piston into a valve.
As I pulled the mains off I found a 2nd spun bearing. This is main #3 which is also spun. Note the bearings are spun and offset. You can also see some metal shavings between the bearing surface and the crank.
Here's the same main after crank has been removed. Notice all of the metal in the oil journal.
Here's a picture of the engine after the crankshaft has been removed. I used zip ties to hold the rods in place and keep them from dropping as I removed the crankshaft.
Next Up: Determine replacement bearing sizes and take crank to machinist to fix mains #2 and #3.
sharp4runr
New member
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/ysr_squid/toyotablockfullsize.jpg
Is that the timing chain in the front? Sorry if that is a silly question, but I'm not nearly confident enough in my abilities to pull an engine like you have.
I've never heard of anyone pulling the V6 out so your thread is very, very informative. Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progress!
BTW, are you doing all this at home? If so, you're garage must be awesome!!!
Is that the timing chain in the front? Sorry if that is a silly question, but I'm not nearly confident enough in my abilities to pull an engine like you have.
I've never heard of anyone pulling the V6 out so your thread is very, very informative. Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progress!
BTW, are you doing all this at home? If so, you're garage must be awesome!!!
ysrsquid
Member
sharp4runr said:
I included the overall picture because the engine is really a work of art. The engine casting is very impressive. Yes that's the timing chains on the front. There are 3 chains. There is a primary chain which runs down to the crank and each head. That chain has the orange and yellow marks to make sure that the crank and cams are oriented correctly. Then each head has secondary chain for driving the intake and exhaust cams. The big picture has the motor at TDC for #1 but the primary chain colored links are out of position. I don't know how many times I had to spin the motor over until I finally got the primary chain in the correct position (so I could take pictures and ensure I got the crank back in the right position during reassembly). I spent at least 1 hour turning and turning... I wore my arms out by the time I finally got that primary chain in the correct orientation.
BTW - I am doing the work in my garage. I haven't really needed any special tools to pull the motor. 95% of the fasteners are 10mm or 12mm. There have been a couple 15mm and a couple Torx and a single Allen.
Feeling your pain
Squid,
I'm new to the forumand have read your entire thread with great interest. I really really feel bad for you.
I do all my own oil changes and never had a oil filter seal blow. I normally use Wix, Hastings filters.
I would think that if the oil seal blew you shold have some recourse with the Mfg of the oil filter.
It would be very nice to know who's oil filter failed. you can bet I won't ever buy one.
I feel so bad for you that I want to come over and help you out. Of course that not possible as I'm in NJ.
Good luck and thanks for the info.
Don
Squid,
I'm new to the forumand have read your entire thread with great interest. I really really feel bad for you.
I do all my own oil changes and never had a oil filter seal blow. I normally use Wix, Hastings filters.
I would think that if the oil seal blew you shold have some recourse with the Mfg of the oil filter.
It would be very nice to know who's oil filter failed. you can bet I won't ever buy one.
I feel so bad for you that I want to come over and help you out. Of course that not possible as I'm in NJ.
Good luck and thanks for the info.
Don
