Has anyone successfully separated the wheel hub assembly?

M

Morphyne

New member
I have a spare set of hub/bearing assemblies laying around and the wife's GX needs new front bearings. Before I buy new ones I wanted to see if anyone had any luck separating these in their DIY lairs. I already watched Eric the car guy fail hard on youtube so I am not hopeful. But if fugue if anyone knew it would be here.

TIA
 
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For new units be sure to price check Rockauto.com. On other vehicles I have found the OE manufacturer units at a significant price break. I prefer OE quality or better. Rockauto does sell lower priced stuff too which I avoid.
 
Thanks for the info. there are actually two sellers that frequent this site that sell quality, pre-assembled units. i have bought two of them and they are great. Which is why I have the two spares sitting around. I seriously doubt I can get them apart and back together again but hence the reason for the post. Hoping for some magic.
 
I bought a Moog bearing from Advanced auto for about $50 after discounts and awards. Took it to first shop, he tried with a small hydrilic press with no luck. Second shop had a 20 ton press and got the flange pressed out but inboard race stayed on. He got the race moving with an air hammer and then pressed it off. It was a bit of a job. When he pressed the flange back in the bearing he left off the outboard seal. Darn. So I'm running that wheel without the seal and will replace it with a complete unit from one of the venders here. long story short, if you don't have an adequate press I wouldn't try it. If you do you may still damage the bearing.
 
i have tried and its not worth it. the adapters are pricey and die grinding the inner race is not fun. I have a local machine shop that presses them for $40 and 30 if i get it through them. Took a lot of phone calls to find them
 
I seriously doubt I can get them apart and back together again but hence the reason for the post. Hoping for some magic.
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BlackWorksInc said:
Honestly it's more trouble than it's worth.
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I disagree. With a simple press you can have an extra $40 in your pocket. Steel is steel and the hub is not a wearable part so there is no reason to replace it. Unless yours is heavily corroded or damaged, there is no reason to waste the money. I can understand as a mechanic that you will pass the extra cost on to the customer in exchange for your convenience, but for the working man, I see no reason to toss $40 out the window.

I have successfully swapped mine. I understand that for some people that it is easier to pay the extra money because of various reasons, but if you have a set sitting in your garage and it isn't like you can't leave anything to chance because you have to go to work, there is no reason you can't save yourself some money and maybe learn a little in the process.
 
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Sungod said:
I disagree. With a simple press you can have an extra $40 in your pocket. Steel is steel and the hub is not a wearable part so there is no reason to replace it. Unless yours is heavily corroded or damaged, there is no reason to waste the money. I can understand as a mechanic that you will pass the extra cost on to the customer in exchange for your convenience, but for the working man, I see no reason to toss $40 out the window.

I have successfully swapped mine. I understand that for some people that it is easier to pay the extra money because of various reasons, but if you have a set sitting in your garage and it isn't like you can't leave anything to chance because you have to go to work, there is no reason you can't save yourself some money and maybe learn a little in the process.
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I don't disagree with that, but removing the hub and then pressing it all back together again along with the other parts can be a pain in the ass vs. just getting a quality pre-made hub assembly. But like you said, it comes down to whether $40 is worth the time and effort in savings.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
I don't disagree with that, but removing the hub and then pressing it all back together again along with the other parts can be a pain in the ass vs. just getting a quality pre-made hub assembly. But like you said, it comes down to whether $40 is worth the time and effort in savings.
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Areeed, but considering the OP is from NC and probably not encountered much road salt or the nasty chemicals that cause corrosion they should be no issue. Even with the DC winters that mine experienced, there was no issue and they both slid right out.

Actually looking at the prices now, it is probably more like $100 per side savings. That guy that sells them here is at $175 per side. You can get the Timken bearings for $65 plus the seals for another $5. You also have the comfort of using your OE hub and not some aftermarket part.

Seems to me saving $200 and having OE parts might be worth the hassle.
 
If the OP has the hydraulic press and the know how he can do it no problem. Shy in either area I would suggest buy assemblies or letting a machine shop do the pressing.
 
I haven't yet had the opertunity to do this bearing change but on tough one used heat and cold. Motorcycle bearings in engine cases drop out by heating the complete case at 200 in an oven.
Helecoptor transmission external fit bearings freeze them, heat the case. The parts fall together. Bearings on a shaft, cool the shaft heat the bearing.

Cooling was done by putting thing in a regular kitchen freezer, propne gas, or nitrogen gas.
Warming always done evenly with an oven, cone heater or heat gun never with a tourch.
 
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Morphyne said:
It's not the pressing I'm worried about. It's the separating.
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You need a press. If you don't have one you can buy something like this 6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press that will run you $60 with their coupon. The other option is to stop by any shop. Not necessarily a machine shop. You should be able to get the press work for $50 for both. It literally takes 10 mins at most.

You will still end up with $150 in your pocket and can have a new tool for your garage.

Technically you could do the job without a press using the heating/cooling method. You also run the risk of messing up the parts because undoubtedly you will have to use a hammer. The cost of a torch and dry ice will put your cost close to that of a press or paying someone to do the work.
 
Sungod said:
You need a press. If you don't have one you can buy something like this 6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press that will run you $60 with their coupon. The other option is to stop by any shop. Not necessarily a machine shop. You should be able to get the press work for $50 for both. It literally takes 10 mins at most.

You will still end up with $150 in your pocket and can have a new tool for your garage.

Technically you could do the job without a press using the heating/cooling method. You also run the risk of messing up the parts because undoubtedly you will have to use a hammer. The cost of a torch and dry ice will put your cost close to that of a press or paying someone to do the work.
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Interesting. I might have to give this a try.
 
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