Head Gasket Leak?

elcidsurfer

New member
Hey y'all,

As are most of my posts, I'm in a pickle.

My '87 T4R (22RE w/5-Speed) started idling rough earlier last week and would almost shut off when at a stop light unless I kept my foot on the gas a little. Once up to speed it would run fine. No back fires, hickups, noticable lack of power, or loss in MPG, etc. It has done this once before when I had a small hole in my air intake tube. So I figured it was something simple like that or a vacume leak. Tried everything I knew do test and couldnt figure it out...

Shortly after, on Wednesday, my car started to over heat after about 20 miles of driving. The coolant was overflowing through the small tube that goes to the overflow bottle and then would spill out in the engine bay. Thus I was loosing coolant and overheating. I thought maybe I had a blockage or a bad water pump. So, with needing an oil change and tire rotation soon anyway I decided to just have my mechanic look at both of these issues.

He called this morning and said I have a Head Gasket Leak and would need it replaced. He quoted me at $1200... Seems high, but that's another issue...

1.) I thought that if I had a Head Gasket leak I would be getting water in my oil, therefore white smoke out the tail pipe, which I'm not getting?

2.) Wouldn't the coolant loss be into the engine and not pressurizing back into the 2nd overflow bottle?

3.) I have the paperwork from when the PO had the Head Gasket replaced roughly 100,000 miles ago. Seems premature to happen again...

I am currently calling around to try and get a second oppinion, but wanted to get y'all's input as well.

Of Note: Other recent events that may or may not effect the above...

A.) I lost my gas cap a few weeks ago and havn't replaced it yet. Moisture in the fuel effecting the above?

B.) I Just replaced the spark plugs about month ago from Autozone. Could I have gotten faulty or mislabeled plug to cause all this?

Thanks for the help in advance!!!
 
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First off, don't ever put Autozone plugs in that motor again or you will have your 4Runner card revoked. NGK or Denso plugs and wires only, these motors do not like domestic/parts store brand plugs.

Second, whether you get coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant or both or neither depends. Ask your mechanic to be very specific in detailing the things he found and tests he did that made him believe you've got a headgasket issue, then come back with that info and we can let you know if it sounds wrong or bogus. Specifically, did he do compression tests or a leakdown test?

If it does turn out to be a bad headgasket, that's work you can do yourself and save a chunk of coin. I know it's scary as hell to consider if you don't have a lot of confidence in your wrenching abilities, but it really is just turning wrenches. There's no specialized knowledge or super awesome skillz needed, you just unbolt a bunch of stuff and replace the gasket and bolt it all back together. When I replaced the head gasket on my current truck, I'd never done anything more involved with a motor than replace the water pump. If you have a torque wrench and can play with Legos, you can change a head gasket on the 22RE.
 
KidV,

I appreciate the fast response as always!!!

Sorry, should have clarified... They are NGK plugs, just happend to buy them at Autozone...

I have considered doing it myself actually... But I thought you had to take the head to a mechine shop to "do it right"..... ?

Thanks!
 
Yeah, you'll want to take the head into a shop to have it surfaced and checked for cracks, there's no sense in skipping that as long as the head is off the truck, and a cracked head acts a lot like a blown head gasket so it's best to be sure. Might run you twenty or thirty bucks, if they don't find anything wrong. If you want you can have them rebuild the head too, but if the compression was good I wouldn't bother.

OR, you could drop $400 or so on a fresh street/RV head from engnbldr, and if I'd had the cash when I replaced the head on this '85 I absolutely would have done that.

Other things to think about doing as long as you've got the head off are having your injectors cleaned and servicing your timing chain. You'll have the fuel rail pulled and the injectors out anyway so it's no extra labor there, and I found an injector shop that cleaned mine for $20 each. It's much easier to get the timing cover off the truck and back on if you've already got the head off, as well.
 
Mechanic said they ran a test on the coolant system and a compression test to diagnose. They said I've got low compression at the #1 Cylinder.... Thoughts?

Also, I just spoke with a buddy of mine that is a "hobby mechanic" that has rebuilt a few engines. He also said the Head Gasket would be totally doable and the biggest "what if" is whether the Head is warped or cracked.

So I'm assuming that getting a new Street/RV Head makes the process totally bolt on and avoids the need of using a mechine shop...

Lastly, if I do this, should I go ahead and to the timing belt, water pump, and oil pump too? It's been at least 100,000 miles since they were all done...
 
Low compression doesn't mean a bad head gasket. It could mean things that are worse :D, like a cracked head, cracked block, bad valve, bad piston ring, etc. Without knowing specifically what the compression level he tested were and what "test on the coolant system" he did and what the results were, I'm gonna say that this mechanic doesn't actually know that the head gasket is bad.

So my suggestion to you would be before you start thinking about how to fix your truck, find out what's actually wrong with it. Find out what that "test on the coolant system" is - it could be diagnostic (exhaust particles in the coolant, for example), or he could be blowing smoke up your ass. It sounds like he's got you pegged as a guy who isn't very truck savvy and is expecting you to take his word for the diagnosis, so pin him down and make him give you very specific results for the tests he's done, and explain them to you. And if you're not convinced and you're comfortable having him do more work on the truck, ask for a leak-down test on the bad cylinder to rule out bad rings or a bad valve. I ain't saying your mechanic is trying to rip you off, but I'd be asking more questions if it were me.

Buying a new cylinder head would be a very expensive way of avoiding taking your existing head to a machine shop, yes :).
 
Solid advice from [MENTION=49649]KidVermicious[/MENTION]. Do not pay that man $1200 to do a HG.

How many miles on your motor?
 

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