Headlight switch was not the problem.....

This is with the fuse pulled. Fuse has been rechecked. Not sure how u would check it with the fuse in place...

Poke the opening at the top, but if the fuse is still good, you are good. So if there is NOW power at both sides of the fuse, and for sure no power to DRL Relay #4, the open is most likely at the connector in the driver's side kick panel. IG3, as I suggested in an earlier post.
 
Got the boyfriend with his meter n he was able to check both sides n there is power to both sides with the fuse in place..
 
It's good on both sides... I pulled the connector apart n checked it n then put it back in n checked it n test light verifies power. That was a major pain in the but to get out to check..
 
So just rechecked the 4 relay n it has power. Key thing to do when checking make sure vehicle is running....... it doesn't have power otherwise... N reverified that there is no power with just the key in the on position.. so not sure where to go from here if these r all working...
 
It's good on both sides... I pulled the connector apart n checked it n then put it back in n checked it n test light verifies power. That was a major pain in the but to get out to check..

Wow, so that leaves the wiring from the kick panel to the Relay#4. You should run a temporary jumper to T4 on the relay and see if that allows your headlights to work. If it does, it might be simpler to run a new permanent wire than to open the harness up looking for an open. Recheck the connector for that relay, maybe the wire is bad right there!

And I know you said it doesn't have power, but triple check it, and make sure it is the right one. Is it a yellow wire?

:drummer:
 
See my post above ur last post.. Kind of frustrated with the whole thing right now since alot of what I've checked wasn't working cuz it wasn't running..
 
See my post above ur last post.. Kind of frustrated with the whole thing right now since alot of what I've checked wasn't working cuz it wasn't running..

Well actually, that is a good thing, so if the relay has power, and you grounded T8 at the switch connector to make it work. It means your problem is most likely in the main DRL relay. But please confirm that T16 at the switch has a good ground. Then there are a few more things to check.

I understand your frustration. But we'll get it!

:hungry:
 
Not totally sure how to check 16. If taking the test light n grounding it n pushing it into the connection I get nothing.. if that's not what u mean let me know how to test it..
 
Not totally sure how to check 16. If taking the test light n grounding it n pushing it into the connection I get nothing.. if that's not what u mean let me know how to test it..

Using a test light connect one end to a power source, then touch the other end to the terminal and see if it lights. If it does, the ground is good.

OR

With a multimeter, check continuity between the terminal and a good ground source.
 
So the ground is good... tested with my meter. .

I spoke with a mechanic friend n he asked if it could hold a load also n he told me how to use a headlight n see if it ran that n it does....

FYI we did pull the dash to check all the diode n such under there n all r good. Power both sides. I have tracked it till it goes into the high beam in the gauge cluster n that is where it seems to end.... thinking it bad in there..
 
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I got it fixed.... it was my instrument panel.. power went in but didn't come out.. In the one I've been stealing parts out of was a good one so I got it n hooked it up n there were my headlights.. The odometer is off by 40000+ so I will just write on it that it's off due to an exchange.. I'm so dang happy. .
 
I got it fixed.... it was my instrument panel.. power went in but didn't come out.. In the one I've been stealing parts out of was a good one so I got it n hooked it up n there were my headlights.. The odometer is off by 40000+ so I will just write on it that it's off due to an exchange.. I'm so dang happy. .

Well we were going there next, why didn't you tell me you had one? LOL

Good for you!

:plane:
 
Well, this thread is making me want to take another look at mine. Maybe tomorrow if I have time.
 
Well, this thread is making me want to take another look at mine. Maybe tomorrow if I have time.
Twan check ur c 27 connector on the back of the instruments. It's the left one in the center pair when u r looking at the front of ur instruments.. My issue was I had power at the #5 green wire but not to the #1 red/green wire.. N if it doesn't go thru there no lights. N I did check my fog lights n they r working I just have to replace one bulb...

I am so happy though. It's all back together n looking good....

Next is remove the grill n headlights to replace one assembly since it gets water in it n to replace the grill cuz someone thought it would be cute to put a Lexus emblem on it... lol

Thanks for the help u guys....
 
Well we were going there next, why didn't you tell me you had one? LOL

Good for you!

:plane:
I technically didn't have one.. But r good friend owns the junk yard where we bought mine from n he basically gave me a junked parts one. I thought I was done snagging parts n he had put it out in the back... So I got lucky it was still there... lol
 
I'll take a look while I'm in there, since I wanted to pull the little green covers off the instrument cluster bulbs.
 

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