Heavy Duty Rear Sway Bar Links

[mikey's2010SR5]

I am still waiting for a dry day off to put these on.

 

[azn-sensation]

PM sent.

 

[pearlj10]

:cheers:Mgrande: I don't owe you commission I hope!

 

[pearlj10]

Azn sensation - pm replied!

 

[pearlj10]

1904k9: thanks for the kind words. I'll still be making these this spring, testing the front link design right now. May even have HD tie rods by year's end. Cheers!

 

[mikey's2010SR5]

Went to install mine today and looks like the bolt could potentially hit the lower link. Any 5th Geners with these on yet that got a flex/stuff pic?

And be sure to go slow when tightening. The plastic in the lock nut melted and caused mine to seize and was almost cut off to get it off. Need to rebuild one with a little thread locker then back on they go if I get my picture.

 

[pearlj10]

Mikey, a buddy of mine has wheeled the snot out of these in his 2011 and has never had the lower bolt hit the LCA (I was with him most of the time). What makes you think that the bolt might contact The LCA? If you are worried I'd suggest putting the frame on jack stands and fully flex/compress the suspension. I have the exact same link hardware, but with the metaltech long travel shocks and custom 4" coils and have never had the links hit at full droop/compression. Did you install the nylok nut with an impact gun?

 

[mikey's2010SR5]

Mikey, a buddy of mine has wheeled the snot out of these in his 2011 and has never had the lower bolt hit the LCA (I was with him most of the time). What makes you think that the bolt might contact The LCA? If you are worried I'd suggest putting the frame on jack stands and fully flex/compress the suspension. I have the exact same link hardware, but with the metaltech long travel shocks and custom 4" coils and have never had the links hit at full droop/compression. Did you install the nylok nut with an impact gun?

It was all by hand. Might just be my eyes playing games with me.

 

[deekoi]

pearlj10 i sent you a pm regarding the fit of the bolt into the swaybar. Mine's not going. Seems like the swaybar is a tad too small for the fit. Anyone else have this issue?

 

[Jono.ful]

My sway bar ends must be thicker, going to have to go get longer bolts as the nylex nuts only thread on maybe half way. I'm a little concerned about the break lines rubbing - there is clearance, but not much

 

[eddiebx]

^^ is it possible to unthread the heim joint and cut the threaded rod a little bit shorter for more clearance? Not sure how the suspension is set up back there, but this could be a possible option if you want to gain a little bit more clearance between the parking brake cable...good luck!

 

[FactoryRide]

I may be wrong, but the reason for getting these new links, is part for length. Aren't these the hindering point in the rear suspension? If you cut it down, then why even exchange in the first place. Again, I may be 100% wrong so correct me if I am

 

[mikey's2010SR5]

Those photos show my concern. I don't know how much the lower link will travel up when stuffing but it does look like there will be some contact!

:lookout:

 

[harper7]

I may be wrong, but the reason for getting these new links, is part for length. Aren't these the hindering point in the rear suspension? If you cut it down, then why even exchange in the first place. Again, I may be 100% wrong so correct me if I am

Just because you put a 2" lift in the rear though doesn't mean you need 2" longer links. The stock ones barely limited travel, if at all with extended travel shocks I have at full flex.They were more stressed,because they are thin and not as strong, to the point of eventually breaking when fully flexed as there was alot of pressure on them.

I have heavy duty ones made for lifted FJ's that are about 1 inch longer then stock and I checked them at full flex and they did not limit travel as the shock was at it's limit. The links and it's bushings were not overly stressed at all and were plenty long enough.
Pretty easy to check the correct length you need,just back that top nut off the end link at full flex and see if the link is pulled downward.If it does you need more length equal or a little greater then the amount it is pulled down.

Not sure what length you need with Metal Techs new rear extended set-up until I eventually get them. I'm waiting as I would have to send my Icon piggies back to Icon to have the travel extended more.

 

[FactoryRide]

Just because you put a 2" lift in the rear though doesn't mean you need 2" longer links. The stock ones barely limited travel, if at all with extended travel shocks I have at full flex.They were more stressed,because they are thin and not as strong, to the point of eventually breaking when fully flexed as there was alot of pressure on them.

I have heavy duty ones made for lifted FJ's that are about 1 inch longer then stock and I checked them at full flex and they did not limit travel as the shock was at it's limit. The links and it's bushings were not overly stressed at all and were plenty long enough.
Pretty easy to check the correct length you need,just back that top nut off the end link at full flex and see if the link is pulled downward.If it does you need more length equal or a little greater then the amount it is pulled down.

Not sure what length you need with Metal Techs new rear extended set-up until I eventually get them. I'm waiting as I would have to send my Icon piggies back to Icon to have the travel extended more.

Thanks for the clarification on that Harper.

 

[eddiebx]

I may be wrong, but the reason for getting these new links, is part for length. Aren't these the hindering point in the rear suspension? If you cut it down, then why even exchange in the first place. Again, I may be 100% wrong so correct me if I am

Oh sorry, I didn't mean chop em off back to factory length that would kind of defeat the purpose ....just a little bit shorter like by 1/4-1/2" so you can clear brake cables a little bit better. But again, I am not really familiar with the suspension geometry of the vehicle so it may or may not be a great idea, was just some food for thought.

 

[K O]

My sway bar ends must be thicker, going to have to go get longer bolts as the nylex nuts only thread on maybe half way. I'm a little concerned about the break lines rubbing - there is clearance, but not much

I bought these links and had to buy 3" lower bolts to replace the 2.5" lower bolts, as they were too short.

Also, my brake lines are outside the LCA, not in between the LCA and sway bar. Unless I'm not seeing your picture correctly...


Harper7- My rear sway bar links were bent silly from just my 2" rear Icon coil lift. I couldn't even tell they were bent until I took them off.

 

[Jono.ful]

Driver's side rear on a curb. There was about 1/2" of clearance with all 4 wheels on level ground. I have concerns about contact with the lower link. Is there no other way to set up this bottom bolt?

 

[Jono.ful]

I bought these links and had to buy 3" lower bolts to replace the 2.5" lower bolts, as they were too short.

Also, my brake lines are outside the LCA, not in between the LCA and sway bar. Unless I'm not seeing your picture correctly...


Harper7- My rear sway bar links were bent silly from just my 2" rear Icon coil lift. I couldn't even tell they were bent until I took them off.

I'll pick up some longer bolts tomorrow and try that. The brake cable you see runs along the outside and slightly above the lower link. I'd like to find a way to have the tie rod articulate inside on the lower link as the suspension moves upwards. Right now, if the link moves more than 2" or so, it will contact the lower tie rod bolt.

 

[deekoi]

Got mine in