HELP!?! 5-speed swap Tacoma ECU no power

[phattyduck]

I can upload a photo comparing them in a few mins when I get home to explain it better. But what I’m saying is the 4Runner ECU has pins and plugs in every port on the ECU. The Tacoma ECU has a port that is completely blank.

That’s what I’m trying to do: install an immobilizer Taco ECU into a non-immobilizer 4Runner.

The two above statements are incompatible. If the Taco ECU has no pins in the center plug, it is a non-immobilizer ECU. The center plug is what goes to/from all the immobilizer components (key amplifier, security light).

While you are getting pics, take one of the upper dash section where the rear window switch, etc. is on your 4Runner.

-Charlie

 

[audiness]

That’s what I’m trying to do: install an immobilizer Taco ECU into a non-immobilizer 4Runner.

I dont have anything to add to this discussion, but I am also doing a 5 speed swap and facing a similar issue. I am currently looking for companies who coul re-flash my Immobilizer ECU, or take the Immobilizer chip out of the old ECU and put it it into the 5 speed Ecu.

 

[Huey.Raine]

The two above statements are incompatible. If the Taco ECU has no pins in the center plug, it is a non-immobilizer ECU. The center plug is what goes to/from all the immobilizer components (key amplifier, security light).

While you are getting pics, take one of the upper dash section where the rear window switch, etc. is on your 4Runner.

-Charlie

I’ll take pics and upload them when I get home from work in about an hour.

 

[Huey.Raine]

The two above statements are incompatible. If the Taco ECU has no pins in the center plug, it is a non-immobilizer ECU. The center plug is what goes to/from all the immobilizer components (key amplifier, security light).

While you are getting pics, take one of the upper dash section where the rear window switch, etc. is on your 4Runner.

-Charlie

4Runner ECU currently installed



Tacoma ECU




Center console dash area all plugs are used with bezel pictured




Unused plugs behind dash blanks on left side of steering wheel







Side topic;

I upgraded my shift knobs and now need to relocate the 4wd button to the dash. Does anybody make OEM style push buttons that fit the dash blanks? Prefer something that will match the center diff lock and clutch start cancel buttons, if possible.

numbers remove duplicates

 

[Team_Jake]

Because your 4Runner has that middle harness, that means your 4Runner has an immobilizer.

You have a couple of options:

1 - Find the correct Tacoma ECU with that middle plug, go through all the steps necessary to flash that ECU to get your immobilizer to work with it.
2 - Remove the immobilizer from your ignition and wire it the way a non-immobilizer 4Runner should be wired.

 

[Huey.Raine]

Because your 4Runner has that middle harness, that means your 4Runner has an immobilizer.

You have a couple of options:

1 - Find the correct Tacoma ECU with that middle plug, go through all the steps necessary to flash that ECU to get your immobilizer to work with it.
2 - Remove the immobilizer from your ignition and wire it the way a non-immobilizer 4Runner should be wired.

That’s odd because when I bought the truck the seller only had a single valet key. I took it to a local locksmith and had another key cut and both work fine. With an immobilizer shouldn’t the key be chipped?

#1 isn’t really an option as I paid $400 for the ECU I have

What is the process for removing the immobilizer on my 4R?

 

[Team_Jake]

That’s odd because when I bought the truck the seller only had a single valet key. I took it to a local locksmith and had another key cut and both work fine. With an immobilizer shouldn’t the key be chipped?

#1 isn’t really an option as I paid $400 for the ECU I have

What is the process for removing the immobilizer on my 4R?

The wires for that center plug, trace those back, that should be connected to the transponder key amplifier near your ignition (which is basically the brains of your immobilizer system). Remove that and your ignition, replace it all with a standard (non-immobilizer) ignition system. Your local junkyard will likely have the ignition system you need, my guess is any 4Runner/Tacoma non-immobilizer system will work. Study some wiring diagrams, they are going to be your friend here. Now a warning, I have not done this, nor do I know anyone that has done this, theoretically this should work, but you are venturing into uncharted territory so your results may vary.

 

[phattyduck]

That’s odd because when I bought the truck the seller only had a single valet key. I took it to a local locksmith and had another key cut and both work fine. With an immobilizer shouldn’t the key be chipped?

#1 isn’t really an option as I paid $400 for the ECU I have

What is the process for removing the immobilizer on my 4R?

Valet key meaning all metal? If so, this is an odd one.

Immobilizer equipped valet keys still had the fat plastic body - they were just gray to indicate it wouldn't open up the glove compartment.

-Charlie

 

[Bad Luck]

The wires for that center plug, trace those back, that should be connected to the transponder key amplifier near your ignition (which is basically the brains of your immobilizer system). Remove that and your ignition, replace it all with a standard (non-immobilizer) ignition system. Your local junkyard will likely have the ignition system you need, my guess is any 4Runner/Tacoma non-immobilizer system will work. Study some wiring diagrams, they are going to be your friend here. Now a warning, I have not done this, nor do I know anyone that has done this, theoretically this should work, but you are venturing into uncharted territory so your results may vary.

I'm going to preface this post. I'm not saying you are correct or incorrect. I'm trying to understand your logic because I have only a vague understanding of the immobilizer system, and I'm trying to further my understanding.

Can you explain why the key amplifier needs to be removed if the tacoma ecu doesn't have an immobilizer chip in it? If the tacoma ecu isn't looking for an immobilizer signal from the key amplifier then why would removing it fix the no start? I could understand the inverse situation being a problem where the ecu has an immobilizer, but it isn't receiving anything from a key amplifier because the vehicle doesn't have it.

 

[Team_Jake]

I'm going to preface this post. I'm not saying you are correct or incorrect. I'm trying to understand your logic because I have only a vague understanding of the immobilizer system, and I'm trying to further my understanding.

Can you explain why the key amplifier needs to be removed if the tacoma ecu doesn't have an immobilizer chip in it? If the tacoma ecu isn't looking for an immobilizer signal from the key amplifier then why would removing it fix the no start? I could understand the inverse situation being a problem where the ecu has an immobilizer, but it isn't receiving anything from a key amplifier because the vehicle doesn't have it.

Here is the way an immobilizer ignition system works:

1. The key is inserted into the ignition
2. The ignition ring coil reads the RFID chip inside the key and sends the value to the transponder key amplifier
3. The transponder key amplifier decodes the value and sends that code to the ECU
4. The ECU checks those codes against a list of stored codes
5. The codes match, the ECU and the transponder key amplifier both tell the EFI relay it is allowed to operate
6. The ignition is turned over, the vehicle will start and run normally

 

[Huey.Raine]

Valet key meaning all metal? If so, this is an odd one.

Immobilizer equipped valet keys still had the fat plastic body - they were just gray to indicate it wouldn't open up the glove compartment.

-Charlie

Yes.

Here’s a photo. Lexus key is to my wife’s GX. The silver Toyota logo key and key fob were the only set the seller gave me. He said it’s all he got when he bought the 4R from the original owner. I had a spare key cut by a local locksmith and it also cranks the vehicle and unlocks the doors fine, as I tested it before putting it away in my safe. My glovebox has a lock on it but the key only goes in a tiny bit and will neither lock nor unlock it. Not sure if that’s related, I just assumed it was broke.

But still, if my 4R has an immobilizer how am I cranking it with blank metal spare keys? None of this makes any sense to me.

When I noticed the 4R ECU had an extra plug vs the Tacoma ECU I assumed the extra plug has something to do with the traction control module that’s mounted under the dash near the foot pedals. Which the Tacoma obviously wouldn’t have being a 5 speed.

I’m still not convinced my 4R has an immobilizer.

It’s an ‘02 SR5 Sport Edition. There’s no security inscription on the corner of the front windows, no dash security light, no “immobilizer” inscription around the ignition trim, no chipped ignition keys, etc.

 

[Huey.Raine]

Here is the way an immobilizer ignition system works:

1. The key is inserted into the ignition
2. The ignition ring coil reads the RFID chip inside the key and sends the value to the transponder key amplifier
3. The transponder key amplifier decodes the value and sends that code to the ECU
4. The ECU checks those codes against a list of stored codes
5. The codes match, the ECU and the transponder key amplifier both tell the EFI relay it is allowed to operate
6. The ignition is turned over, the vehicle will start and run normally

I think what he’s asking is why does any of that matter if the ECU isn’t looking for any of that. The non-immobilizer ECU isn’t checking anything.

That’s all makes sense if it’s an immobilizer ECU installed into a non-immobilizer vehicle. But my truck is the other way around. The ECU isn’t looking for anything.

 

[Bad Luck]

Here is the way an immobilizer ignition system works:

1. The key is inserted into the ignition
2. The ignition ring coil reads the RFID chip inside the key and sends the value to the transponder key amplifier
3. The transponder key amplifier decodes the value and sends that code to the ECU
4. The ECU checks those codes against a list of stored codes
5. The codes match, the ECU and the transponder key amplifier both tell the EFI relay it is allowed to operate
6. The ignition is turned over, the vehicle will start and run normally

Thank you for the explanation. I looked at the engine immobilizer wiring diagrams for a 2000 and it shows the ECM being the only control for the EFI relay which is where I was getting lost. (Dropbox - 2000 4Runner Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD383U) - Printable - Simplify your life Section 82.) It would have been very helpful if Toyota had included a description and operation along with their wiring diagrams.

Would it be possible to jump the efi relay and that would bypass the immobilizer circuit and allow for starting for testing purposes?

 

[Team_Jake]

Thank you for the explanation. I looked at the engine immobilizer wiring diagrams for a 2000 and it shows the ECM being the only control for the EFI relay which is where I was getting lost. (Dropbox - 2000 4Runner Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD383U) - Printable - Simplify your life Section 82.) It would have been very helpful if Toyota had included a description and operation along with their wiring diagrams.

Would it be possible to jump the efi relay and that would bypass the immobilizer circuit and allow for starting for testing purposes?

It may be possible, but that's why I think swapping the ignition to a non-immobilizer ignition would be the safest bet.

 

[Team_Jake]

I think what he’s asking is why does any of that matter if the ECU isn’t looking for any of that. The non-immobilizer ECU isn’t checking anything.

That’s all makes sense if it’s an immobilizer ECU installed into a non-immobilizer vehicle. But my truck is the other way around. The ECU isn’t looking for anything.

Both the ECU and the transponder key amplifier communicate with the EFI relay. If your ECU is a non-immobilizer ECU, your transponder key amplifier can't verify the codes and won't let your EFI relay run.

 

[Team_Jake]

Yes.

Here’s a photo. Lexus key is to my wife’s GX. The silver Toyota logo key and key fob were the only set the seller gave me. He said it’s all he got when he bought the 4R from the original owner. I had a spare key cut by a local locksmith and it also cranks the vehicle and unlocks the doors fine, as I tested it before putting it away in my safe. My glovebox has a lock on it but the key only goes in a tiny bit and will neither lock nor unlock it. Not sure if that’s related, I just assumed it was broke.

But still, if my 4R has an immobilizer how am I cranking it with blank metal spare keys? None of this makes any sense to me.

When I noticed the 4R ECU had an extra plug vs the Tacoma ECU I assumed the extra plug has something to do with the traction control module that’s mounted under the dash near the foot pedals. Which the Tacoma obviously wouldn’t have being a 5 speed.

I’m still not convinced my 4R has an immobilizer.

It’s an ‘02 SR5 Sport Edition. There’s no security inscription on the corner of the front windows, no dash security light, no “immobilizer” inscription around the ignition trim, no chipped ignition keys, etc.

This is a strange one.

Trace those wires back and see what they connect to, I think you'll find your answer there.

It may be possible that your ignition system was altered at some point, I had a friend who bought a used 4Runner which had a system like this - this video here shows what I'm talking about. Toyota and many cars easy key bypass( part 1) - YouTube

 

[Huey.Raine]

Thank you for the explanation. I looked at the engine immobilizer wiring diagrams for a 2000 and it shows the ECM being the only control for the EFI relay which is where I was getting lost. (Dropbox - 2000 4Runner Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD383U) - Printable - Simplify your life Section 82.) It would have been very helpful if Toyota had included a description and operation along with their wiring diagrams.

Would it be possible to jump the efi relay and that would bypass the immobilizer circuit and allow for starting for testing purposes?

It may be possible, but that's why I think swapping the ignition to a non-immobilizer ignition would be the safest bet.

By safest do you mean jumping the EFI relay could risk frying something?

At the end of the day, I live in a non-emission county and can just pull the CEL and VSC bulbs. I’d just prefer to fix it correctly and have a functioning CEL. Especially considering I paid $400 for the Tacoma ECU.

 

[Huey.Raine]

This is a strange one.

Trace those wires back and see what they connect to, I think you'll find your answer there.

It may be possible that your ignition system was altered at some point, I had a friend who bought a used 4Runner which had a system like this - this video here shows what I'm talking about. Toyota and many cars easy key bypass( part 1) - YouTube

I’ll try to check it out tonight and post my findings. I’ve left the dash pulled apart so it shouldn’t take long.

I’m off work Thurs and Fri and should have a little free time to tinker with it.

 

[Team_Jake]

By safest do you mean jumping the EFI relay could risk frying something?

At the end of the day, I live in a non-emission county and can just pull the CEL and VSC bulbs. I’d just prefer to fix it correctly and have a functioning CEL. Especially considering I paid $400 for the Tacoma ECU.

By safest I mean giving it the best possible chance of working.

 

[Bad Luck]

I’ll try to check it out tonight and post my findings. I’ve left the dash pulled apart so it shouldn’t take long.

I’m off work Thurs and Fri and should have a little free time to tinker with it.

I would try jumping the EFI relay and trying to start it with the manual ecm. If it runs then you know it's at least something to do with the ECM not commanding the EFI relay correctly.