Help..ARB fog light wiring

mAtTyGlaz

New member
The ARB fog lights came with a harness that included a switch and a relay. I want to use my factory fog light switch so i cut the wires leave 2 wires coming from each fog light. Then I cut the factory fog light plugs ins off leaving 2 wire.
I then hooked up the factory wires to the ARB fog light wire. I can not het them to work. What am I doing wrong? I check the 15 fuse in the cab fuse pannel and it's not blown.

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The ARB fog lights came with a harness that included a switch and a relay. I want to use my factory fog light switch so i cut the wires leave 2 wires coming from each fog light. Then I cut the factory fog light plugs ins off leaving 2 wire.
I then hooked up the factory wires to the ARB fog light wire. I can not het them to work. What am I doing wrong? I check the 15 fuse in the cab fuse pannel and it's not blown.

Is the fuse to the ARB harness the same size? Did the harness come with a relay? You may have to start from scratch and cut the stock wiring to the stock switch.
 
Have you checked the connections with a voltmeter? That would be square one.

I second what 4runner girl said in asking if these came with a relay? Having a relay between higher wattage lights, the batt, and then switch is the safest way to go about it. Relays can be had for super cheap at auto parts stores.. that's how I wired up my hella lights to the factory fog switch.

Again take some readings so we know what's going on, hopefully it's a simple one.
 
Is the fuse to the ARB harness the same size? Did the harness come with a relay? You may have to start from scratch and cut the stock wiring to the stock switch.

The ARB harness had a 25a fuse. That's why I checked the factory 15a to see if I blew it. It's not blown. Is it a matter of swapping the factory 15a with a 25a? (My electrical skills are nil).

I've search and found threads where people simply did what I did to change to aftermarket fogs. Iuuno???

DFD8AAF7-74C1-4A5E-93A9-1FC70BA9BB0F.jpg~original
 
Have you checked the connections with a voltmeter? That would be square one.

I second what 4runner girl said in asking if these came with a relay? Having a relay between higher wattage lights, the batt, and then switch is the safest way to go about it. Relays can be had for super cheap at auto parts stores.. that's how I wired up my hella lights to the factory fog switch.

Again take some readings so we know what's going on, hopefully it's a simple one.

His ARB harness likely came with one.

The ARB harness had a 25a fuse. That's why I checked the factory 15a to see if I blew it. It's not blown. Is it a matter of swapping the factory 15a with a 25a? (My electrical skills are nil).

I've search and found threads where people simply did what I did to change to aftermarket fogs. Iuuno???

DFD8AAF7-74C1-4A5E-93A9-1FC70BA9BB0F.jpg~original

I don't know who has done this before, but I would start with the switch and use the ARB wiring harness because this is the way it's intended to work. I'm guessing the load is too much for the stock system, but I am not sure.
 
I thought the way I did it would be simple and work but I guess not.

I think I'll wire the harness back together as it came and start from stratch. Only thing is I want to use my factory fog light switch and not the ARB supplied one so I'll have to figure out that part.
 
I know you have 2 wires but a lot of these lights use the chassis as a ground path. Have you tried jamming the mount against a bare spot on the bumper?
 
I thought the way I did it would be simple and work but I guess not.

I think I'll wire the harness back together as it came and start from stratch. Only thing is I want to use my factory fog light switch and not the ARB supplied one so I'll have to figure out that part.

There is a thread on wiring the ARB harness (albeit compressor) to an AOB switch, but I can't imagine it being much different. Cut the wires at the back of the stock switch and see if you can figure out which wire goes where (you can always soldier them back together). I believe you will have to connect one of the ARB wires to a 12v power supply though. Maybe tap into a nearby switch (dimmer?). Trial and error.

I am much like you at this point, still figuring out my own wiring. Just trying to think of things that may help. I'd be willing to bet [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] or [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] knows....

:cool:
 
I thought the way I did it would be simple and work but I guess not.

I think I'll wire the harness back together as it came and start from stratch. Only thing is I want to use my factory fog light switch and not the ARB supplied one so I'll have to figure out that part.

It's easy once you wrap our head around it. Google how to wire auto relays and you should be able to get it. The relay is basically a "switched switch", using the low amp factory fog switch to complete the higher amp fog light circuit.. trust me just read up or watch some YouTube videos and you'll get it! Best of luck.
 
Swapping in a fuse of a different (larger size 25A) in a circuit that used a smaller 15A is a bad idea. The wire in that factory circuit was designed (sized) for that lower 15A current draw. In essence the wire is now your fuse!
 
The ARB fog lights came with a harness that included a switch and a relay. I want to use my factory fog light switch so i cut the wires leave 2 wires coming from each fog light... Then I cut the factory fog light plugs ins off leaving 2 wire. I then hooked up the factory wires to the ARB fog light wire. I can not het them to work. What am I doing wrong?

Hi mAtTyGlaz,

How-a-bout let's start over 'FROM THE BEGINNING'! I say that because a few critical mistakes were made in the planning stages of this fog-light install! Now whatever I talk to you about, please don't think that I'm just trying to make you feel bad or that I'm being condescending to you. It's not that. It's just that what I would've done is plot out a wiring scheme on paper BEFORE... I began cutting any wires; especially any of the factory wiring.

Okay, the good news is that you can repair the mistakes and start over! I'm not sure just why you don't want to use the factory fogs and add-on the ARB kit; which would give you much more light, but that's really none of my business... I'm only here to help you accomplish your objective, so lets start! The ARB switch that you cut off has two wires... If there are two wires that were connected to the fog-light harness switch, then one is HOT (POS) from the battery, and one is Load to the relay coil term (#85. EDIT)

These two wires purpose is to energize the fog-light relay coil; which will provide the current needed to feed the foglights/load. So if you want the factory fog-light switch in the wiper stalk to bring the ARB fogs on, the simplest way to do that would be to pull a single HOT line (small 16-18 ga) from the fog-light (Driverside: WHT is HOT) to the ARB switch harness; there's likely to be a small RED wire with a loop connector, originally intended to be connected to the battery to feed the ARB switch.

NOTE: if you're not going to use the ARB switch then just tie the two wires that were connected to the switch together because now the fog-light switch will bring on the new fog-lights... this can be done whether you continue to use the factory fog-lights or not! Now connect the BLK wires to the NEG battery terminal: Now when you turn on the fogs from the stalk switch, the new ARB fogs should come on... but from this point fwd, follow the install sheet to the letter!

NOTE: I,m leaving you a little more info just for reference in case you run into trouble: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/220177-switches-relays-wires-its-all-greek-me.html

Keep us informed about your project and 'Best to you',

rig
 
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Hi mAtTyGlaz,

How-a-bout let's start over 'FROM THE BEGINNING'! I say that because a few critical mistakes were made in the planning stages of this fog-light install! Now whatever I talk to you about, please don't think that I'm just trying to make you feel bad or that I'm being condescending to you. It's not that. It's just that what I would've done is plot out a wiring scheme on paper BEFORE... I began cutting any wires; especially any of the factory wiring.

Okay, the good news is that you can repair the mistakes and start over! I'm not sure just why you don't want to use the factory fogs and add-on the ARB kit; which would give you much more light, but that's really none of my business... I'm only here to help you accomplish your objective, so lets start! The ARB switch that you cut off has two wires... If there are two wires that were connected to the fog-light harness switch, then one is HOT (POS) from the battery, and one is Load to the relay term #30.

These two wires purpose is to energize the fog-light relay coil; which will provide the current needed to feed the foglights/load. So if you want the factory fog-light switch in the wiper stalk to bring the ARB fogs on, the simplest way to do that would be to pull a single HOT line (small 16-18 ga) from the fog-light (Driverside: WHT is HOT) to the ARB switch harness; there's likely to be a small RED wire with a loop connector, originally intended to be connected to the battery to feed the ARB switch.

NOTE: if you're not going to use the ARB switch then just tie the two wires that were connected to the switch together because now the fog-light switch will bring on the new fog-lights... this can be done whether you continue to use the factory fog-lights or not! Now connect the BLK wires to the NEG battery terminal: Now when you turn on the fogs from the stalk switch, the new ARB fogs should come on... but from this point fwd, follow the install sheet to the letter!

NOTE: I,m leaving you a little more info just for reference in case you run into trouble: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/220177-switches-relays-wires-its-all-greek-me.html

Keep us informed about your project and 'Best to you',

rig

Awesome! Thanks! I will follow your instructions tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Appreciate the help!
 
Whoops(!)... 'EDIT',

I made one mistake in my above post; it says:

"The ARB switch that you cut off has two wires... If there are two wires that were connected to the fog-light harness switch, then one is HOT (POS) from the battery, and one is Load to the relay coil, term #30"

The relay coil terminals are numbered 85 & 86, NOT #30... So that should read: "The ARB switch that you cut off has two wires... If there are two wires that were connected to the ARB fog-light harness switch, then one of the wires is from the battery HOT (POS) to the old, obsolete switch, and the other wire, that leaves the switch, goes straight to the relay coil (term #85) through the new harness. So now, the aftermarket (ARB) kit has what it needs to operate the relay and the new LED's, using the factory fog-light circuit as a trigger! Sooo sorry for my blunder,

rig, Cheers
 
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Whoops(!)... 'EDIT',

I made one mistake in my above post; it says:



The relay coil terminals are numbered 85 & 86, NOT #30... So that should read: "The ARB switch that you cut off has two wires... If there are two wires that were connected to the ARB fog-light harness switch, then one of the wires is from the battery HOT (POS) to the old, obsolete switch, and the other wire, that leaves the switch, goes straight to the relay coil (term #85) through the new harness. So now, the aftermarket (ARB) kit has what it needs to operate the relay and the new LED's, using the factory fog-light circuit as a trigger! Sooo sorry for my blunder,

rig, Cheers

Where's the fog light relay? I have fuse box open but I'm having no luck identifying the relay
 
Where's the fog light relay? I have fuse box open but I'm having no luck identifying the relay

The idea is... you'll wire the ARB harness kit just as it says in it's paperwork. The only thing different is you won't need to use the switch in the kit because the factory fog switch (stalk) will trigger the kit... understand? You'll run a wire from the White, POS(+) stock fog-lamp to the ARB harness power supply wire. You can still cut-out the ARB switch and join the two switch wires together; or just leave it in (either way).

The factory fog-light wire at the bezel (you'll only need to use one) will be the ARB trigger so the stock fuse no longer needs to protect the stock wiring because triggering the ARB relay will draw less then an amp, but you'll turn on the new kit with the stock fog-light stalk switch. FYI: There's a 15A fog Fuse and relay in the driverside fusebox. Got that?

Cheers
 
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The idea is... you'll wire the ARB harness kit just as it says in it's paperwork. The only thing different is you won't need to use the switch in the kit because the factory fog switch (stalk) will trigger the kit... understand? You'll run a wire from the White, POS(+) stock fog-lamp to the ARB harness power supply wire. You can still cut-out the ARB switch and join the two switch wires together; or just leave it in (either way).

The factory fog-light wire at the bezel (you'll only need to use one) will be the ARB trigger so the stock fuse no longer needs to protect the stock wiring because triggering the ARB relay will draw less then an amp, but you'll turn on the new kit with the stock fog-light stalk switch. FYI: There's a 15A fog Fuse and relay in the driverside fusebox. Got that?

Cheers

The problem I have now is the factory fog light wires are not gettimg power. To test it a put everything back stock. The stock fogs wont turn on. I checked the 15a fuse under the dash and its not blown. This is why im asking what/where the relay is the te fog lights.
 
The problem I have now is the factory fog light wires are not gettimg power. To test it a put everything back stock. The stock fogs wont turn on. I checked the 15a fuse under the dash and its not blown. This is why im asking what/where the relay is the te fog lights.

Okay, understood! Make certain that the 'High Beams' aren't on because that will interrupt the fog-light circuit. Also, I believe that you cut the fog-light harness connectors off of the wires(?)! With the fog-lights on, using a multi-meter or a 12v test light, first connect the alligator clip to a good ground on the chassis or NEG (-) battery post and test the white wire for power.

If you have 12V that way, connect the clip end to the positive battery post and check the other wire (white w/black stripe GND). If it doesn't work that way then you lost your ground. That 4Runner uses the GND side switching format; which means most all of the accessories in the 4R are 'HOT ALL THE TIME' and the switch provides the ground so make sure that the switch is connected to it's ground junction!

Let me know what your findings are and if need be, we'll investigate this further!

rig, cheers
 
The problem I have now is the factory fog light wires are not gettimg power. To test it a put everything back stock. The stock fogs wont turn on. I checked the 15a fuse under the dash and its not blown. This is why im asking what/where the relay is the te fog lights.

Think I have it. Thanks again for the help!
 

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