Help: Battery Suddenly Died

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Grape Ape

Member
Anyone know the average lifespan of a battery in a 2010 5th Gen Trail? I don't have anything extra hooked up to it. The issue starting occuring after I had to leave my rear hatch open to load in some wood flooring I was moving to another place. Probably open for 30 minutes. No issues when I was moving or for a couple of days after, but I started noticing the other day a hesitation in the starting process. This morning was the same way but it started...drove into the office (45 minutes) pulled in and turned it off. Tried to start it again and nothing, lights come on, it's in park, foot on brake, just no juice to turnover.

Any ideas?
 
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Grape Ape said:
Anyone know the average lifespan of a battery in a 2010 5th Gen Trail? I don't have anything extra hooked up to it. The issue starting occuring after I had to leave my rear hatch open to load in some wood flooring I was moving to another place. Probably open for 30 minutes. No issues when I was moving or for a couple of days after, but I started noticing the other day a hesitation in the starting process. This morning was the same way but it started...drove into the office (45 minutes) pulled in and turned it off. Tried to start it again and nothing, lights come on, it's in park, foot on brake, just no juice to turnover.

Any ideas?
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Bad Batt I'm guessing. Test it and if you need to replace it get the Die Hard Plt. It has been very solid for me.

Blue
 
Grape Ape said:
Anyone know the average lifespan of a battery in a 2010 5th Gen Trail? I don't have anything extra hooked up to it. The issue starting occuring after I had to leave my rear hatch open to load in some wood flooring I was moving to another place. Probably open for 30 minutes. No issues when I was moving or for a couple of days after, but I started noticing the other day a hesitation in the starting process. This morning was the same way but it started...drove into the office (45 minutes) pulled in and turned it off. Tried to start it again and nothing, lights come on, it's in park, foot on brake, just no juice to turnover.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Lifespan.....Car batteries last an average of two thirds as long in hot climates as cold ones. Heat kills car batteries, especially sealed wet lead acid batteries like the one in the 4Runner.

Car batteries have memories......
Deep discharges or running it down while not charging can damage car batteries and will shorten their lives unless they were made for it as in a deep cycle battery.

Have it checked at Autozone or the like to make sure it's bad or just needs a full recharge.
 
Just replaced mine at 45K. I was shocked as well when it happened, I had the stereo on for about an hour and completely drained.

I replaced it with a Kirkland (costco) battery and haven't had a problem since.

I also purchased my truck used, so who knows what the previous owner did.

Anyhow, just get it tested at autozon, if it's a good batt - have them charge it, if it's bad. $90 at Costco with 8 year warranty!!!! That's incredible if you ask me.


Good luck!
 
harper7 said:
Lifespan.....Car batteries last an average of two thirds as long in hot climates as cold ones. Heat kills car batteries, especially sealed wet lead acid batteries like the one in the 4Runner.
Click to expand...

Yup, that's what I've experienced.
Since i moved to TX almost 9 years ago, all of my car's batteries have died in 3 years or less (usually less); Corrolla, Saab 9-3, & BMW 335. I bought my TE new in 10/2010 so I'm expecting it to go anytime.
It seemed weird the first time, but I'm used to it now.
 
Did Toyota stop using the Panasonic batteries they used in the 4th gens? Original 4th gen batteries lasted many years, some members had 7 or more years on them. I live in the desert in Arizona (12 years) and I can not really say my batteries last any less longer than any cooler place I lived. The Optima in my 4runner is 6 years old and my Jeep Optima just died after 7.5 years. Just put an optima in it and be done with it. No more acid eating up the terminals with them as they age either and they take all the off road bouncing around with out failure.
 
03_4x4Runner said:
Did Toyota stop using the Panasonic batteries they used in the 4th gens? Original 4th gen batteries lasted many years, some members had 7 or more years on them. I live in the desert in Arizona (12 years) and I can not really say my batteries last any less longer than any cooler place I lived. The Optima in my 4runner is 6 years old and my Jeep Optima just died after 7.5 years. Just put an optima in it and be done with it. No more acid eating up the terminals with them as they age either and they take all the off road bouncing around with out failure.
Click to expand...
Same Panasonic batteries which in general are good batteries and the one in my 06 only lasted 4 years/80k miles.Many down south over on the FJ forum had them go out in 3-4 years too and a bunch of threads on it.
 
Ok, just a battery, it was time I guess. Got in the car after a jump and saw the meter bouncing back and forth so I figured that was it. Had it all checked out and it was just gone. Just odd, my experience has been a noticeable issue coming, this just came out of nowhere.
 
harper7 said:
Same Panasonic batteries which in general are good batteries and the one in my 06 only lasted 4 years/80k miles.Many down south over on the FJ forum had them go out in 3-4 years too and a bunch of threads on it.
Click to expand...

my 06 still has the OE panasonic battery.

i'll be replacing it in the spring with an Interstate...if it makes it through the winter.
 
Grape Ape,
Dude....replace that battery now. I went thru 3 batts on my '97. The second one went dead and burned up my alternator...$350 for a re-furbished alt. Alternators don't do well carrying all the load to run your truck, and die fairly fast. A Battery will probly only cost you a little over $100. Better than getting a tow, and replacing Alternator and Battery.:rockon::car:
 
DannyLlama said:
Just replaced mine at 45K. I was shocked as well when it happened, I had the stereo on for about an hour and completely drained.

I replaced it with a Kirkland (costco) battery and haven't had a problem since.

I also purchased my truck used, so who knows what the previous owner did.

Anyhow, just get it tested at autozon, if it's a good batt - have them charge it, if it's bad. $90 at Costco with 8 year warranty!!!! That's incredible if you ask me.


Good luck!
Click to expand...

Resurrecting an older thread here. Came back from 10 day trip after driving down to Oakland from Seattle the precious Sunday. Truck worked fine for the whole trip down and didn't notice any issues. Came back today and the truck didn't beep with the unlock on the fob. Tried to jump it and the lights came on, starter clicked twice and the lights on the dash wouldn't even come on. Took it out, managed to get a ride to O'Reilly auto and it has a charge of 2.3v. I didn't bother with the load test as I had a million things to get done today and this was a major inconvenience. Replaced it with an optima yellow top. Hopefully no issues for at least the next 3-5 years. Just wanted to pass along. Oh and I passed 44k miles on the drive down from Seattle.
 
Anyone with a 2010 is probably getting close. I replaced mine a couple months ago at around 45K miles. Wife left the vanity light on overnight and it needed a jump. had to leave it at the airport shortly there after and it was dead when I got back 3 days later (knew this would happen so i brought a jumper).

Rolling with a Group 31M diehard platinum now.

Okki
 
Very common in hot weather. The wife unit went to the store and came back. Car was sitting in driveway for 5 minutes. She had to go out again. No start. Took it to autozone. 2 Dead cells. The battery was the second I have put in her 2007 Maxima both last 3 years 2 months.
 
Purchased my 2010 TE back in March 2010, now with 79,600+ miles and original battery still good as new probably because I'm in California, even though this year has been one of the hottest years for our area with temp up to the high 90's since I moved to this part of California 5 years ago. Hoping to get at least 5 years out of this original stock battery! Readout on the dash voltage gauge looks like same position as when new assuming it is accurate!
 
toyslug said:
Purchased my 2010 TE back in March 2010, now with 79,600+ miles and original battery still good as new probably because I'm in California, even though this year has been one of the hottest years for our area with temp up to the high 90's since I moved to this part of California 5 years ago. Hoping to get at least 5 years out of this original stock battery! Readout on the dash voltage gauge looks like same position as when new assuming it is accurate!
Click to expand...

The dash meter only shows part of the story. the fact that it can produce 12V with no load does not mean that once a draw is placed on the battery it will drop to null in no time flat. it may also not have the cold crank amps left needed to start the truck in less than ideal weather.

You can have diagnostics run on your battery for free at any autozone, advance auto parts, etc. Since this has come up a couple times, can you take a picture of the specs listing on the OEM battery>

Okki
 
toyslug said:
.... original battery still good as new probably ...... Readout on the dash voltage gauge looks like same position as when new assuming it is accurate!
Click to expand...

What [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION] said. You don't know if a battery is "good" unless it's been tested under a load. Any of the stores mentioned do it fo' free in 10 min.
 
Thanks for your comments. As I re-read my post, I realize my comment was stupid. I would never replace the battery based just on the gauge reading. It only gives a general warning of impending battery problem, esp if it reads or flucuates back and forth below 12V?
 
Thanks for your comments! Did not realize that my post comments came out stupid sounding!
I definitely will not replace my battery based on just the gauge reading! I have found it only of value as to a heads up/ general warning of battery/alternator troubles ahead when I see a reading that is significantly less than 12V? or needle fluctuating back and forth below 12V?
 
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