Hi Everyone, After having put in JBA upper control arms, and redoing the suspension with Bilsten 2.3" springs in the rear, and 5100s up front with what I believe are FJ springs. From what I can tell using a tape measure this has lifted and leveled me a little over 2.25" all the way around. Reading some of the posts I felt optimistic I could get the Cooper ST-MAXXs in 255/80 r17s to fit...I was wrong. At first I thought they fit, then when I was turning the wheel they would bump the front edge of the UCA. As a backup plan I bought spacers. Put those on and am now clear of the UCA but am catching the rear of the fender flare and just grazing the body mount. Im not sure where to go from here. Im considering adding a 1" spacer on the rear and going up to the highest notch on the bilsteins up front which should give me about 3/4" more up front. However, not sure this will solve my problem or is needed. Need some suggestions on what will be the best solution here to get these to fit. Do I need to just find a place to do a body mount chop? Is it possible an alignment tech could push the wheels far enough forward? Im really at my wits end here and tired after 2 days of monkeying with this thing and am open to suggestions. Any help is greatly appreciated!:help:
Help fitting 255/80 r17s
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montijo505
Senior Member
Try to get the alignment tech to get as much caster as possible, should move the wheels forward in the wheel well and help. If it doesn’t, get a cab mount chop and trim the plastic.
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ads2539
New member
I have no rubbing with 255/80r17 tires (33.1”) on 5th gen rims (17x7.5) and a full 3” in front, 2” in rear and 1.25” wheel spacers. I also have a 1” body lift, which helps clear the fenders. The full 3” suspension lift in front clears the body mounts. The body lift doesn’t affect the body mount clearance. I haven’t fully compressed the suspension, so I don’t know if there would be rubbing with the wheels stuffed. Daily driving, no rubbing. A pic of my set up is in my signature below.
SA-Overland
New member
Have you measured the actual tire yet, mounted? Just curious. I have the same rims/tires sitting in my garage.
Thanks, will give that a shot and see if we can get clear enough.
Thanks, sounds like your lift is about where I need to be. Think I will be close to the 3" mark if I bump up one more notch on the front struts.
Haven't measured the actual tire/wheel yet, will check in the morning and let you know what I find.
SA-Overland
New member
Cool, thanks!
ads2539
New member
I also haven’t measured the tires on my 4R. I do have about 6 months of (covid) use with them. They are definitely taller than my 255/75r17, 265/70r17 and 265/75r16 tires, which are all 32”, give or take 1/10” or so.
I can also measure them tomorrow.
ads2539
New member
I just measured the wheels/tires on my 4R.
The four tires mounted and on the vehicle are approx. 32” because of the weight of the vehicle.
The spare, that is mounted and on the roof rack, is the full 33.1” it claims to be, maybe even 0.1” to 0.2” taller in the middle from the 40+ lbs of inflation (E load rating).
This is essentially what I am measuring as well...just a hair over maybe about 32 and 1\4"
originalg00kster
New member
until you actually off road...you'll be rubbing like a mfer.
to the OP, just get a BMC and call it a day.
I tried the 255/80/17 Cooper ST Maxx tires with the stock wheels and JBA high caster arms as well. I have a Dobinson's 2.5" front / 1.5" (~) rear lift. Those tires are just too tall for those arms with the stock wheel offset. The 5th Gen wheels with the -15mm offset move the tire outward about an additional .6" inches from the arm and allow for pretty normal turning. There is still plenty of room between the body mount and tire with that set up on mine. You'll want to make sure your caster is close to 4 degrees to get it away from the body mount. My front plastic is also trimmed up, but that's not a big deal.
But I gotta agree that if you can find a place to chop your mounts for a good price, do that with the spacers and you should be happy with it and won't have to worry much about rubbing if you get aggressive. Although, the rears get awful close to the body when stuffed without a body lift.
Thanks, I think a 1\2" spacer probably would have done the trick....think I will have to budget for some wheels similar to yours in the near future. Have some follow-up calls to make tomorrow on the body mount chop and plan on going through with it to make sure I can get this back off-road without too much rubbing.
gimlithepirate
New member
So I was able to clear 255/80/17s on a 3/2 lift. However, I have FJ Cruiser wheels (15mm offset vs 30mm on stock 17s), and SPC UCAs. I did not go with the JBAs specifically because clearing them requires enough offset that you are probably looking at a BMC.
I was initially clearing them mostly on a 2.5/1 lift from Eibach. That said, when going downhill fast and articulating I'd rub. Ultimately, you will need an alignment tech that is willing to play with it and get your tires as far forward in the wheel well as you can. Basically, you start with the rear alignment cam as far out as you can, and the front as far in as you can, and walk it until you are just barely in spec.
I couldn't find a decent alignment tech, so I DIY'd it and had it checked at Pep Boys, but that is definitely not for everyone.
I was initially clearing them mostly on a 2.5/1 lift from Eibach. That said, when going downhill fast and articulating I'd rub. Ultimately, you will need an alignment tech that is willing to play with it and get your tires as far forward in the wheel well as you can. Basically, you start with the rear alignment cam as far out as you can, and the front as far in as you can, and walk it until you are just barely in spec.
I couldn't find a decent alignment tech, so I DIY'd it and had it checked at Pep Boys, but that is definitely not for everyone.
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