When did you get the wind deflector? LFD doesn't show it on their website currently and I think I heard something about it being redesigned...?
Help me choose my Cargo Box
- Thread starter Farby
- Start date
When did you get the wind deflector? LFD doesn't show it on their website currently and I think I heard something about it being redesigned...?
I went with the LFD crossbars and Yakima skybox carbonite 16. Just did a 1200 mile roadtrip and was extremely happy with this setup. Carried a ton of cargo, cleared the shark fin, sat as low as possible to the roof, and opened the hatch fully without issue
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Thanks!
Florunner78
New member
Much, much better with the deflector. Guess I left that part out.
How did you mount the SkyBox to the crossbar? Did the stock Yakima mounts work?
Yup, the stock Yakima clamps bolt directly and snuggly to the LFD crossbars. Everything seemed real stout and tight. Got the rig up to 80-85 and just cruised
classicinjection
New member
I use this swing out model
This is a 16 cubic foot swing out hitch mounted box. I think it works pretty good i’ve Used it for camping trips and road trips.foHitch Cargo Box - Max | StowAway
This is a 16 cubic foot swing out hitch mounted box. I think it works pretty good i’ve Used it for camping trips and road trips.foHitch Cargo Box - Max | StowAway
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Yakima 16 on Yakima cross bars. I posted this 5 years ago and the photos have been used many time to illustrate the fit of this box.
IMO I would not mount this to the OEM cross bars just in case of snow load or hitting a low hanging branch that might shove the box into the roof.
When the box is not installed use the Yakima wind faring to deduce wind noise.
IMO I would not mount this to the OEM cross bars just in case of snow load or hitting a low hanging branch that might shove the box into the roof.
When the box is not installed use the Yakima wind faring to deduce wind noise.
Attachments
FormFunction
New member
That is the box I want to go with, but not sure how to mount on 19’ TRD Pro basket-rack. Hoping I can sit it on the slats with the attachments on the box moved back vs rear tubing and slat sitting higher. Also wondering about weight limit for the slats.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
lebowski_c6
Member
Thanks for all the help everyone. I have a feeling if the 4runner had better factory rack and cross bars, I probably would have gone with a roof rack. As it stands, the prospect of spending $$$ on aftermarket crossbars and still having only a stated 135lb weight limit for the factory rack (or only ~90lbs of cargo after the ~45lb box is accounted for) I started looking at other options. If my 4runner was newer I would consider upgrading the entire roof rack but didn't want to do that on a ~10yr old car w/ 115k miles.
So I started looking at the various hitch mounted options, including the Thule hitch box, the stowaway2 hitch box etc. But after perusing the different options on entrailer.com and watching some of the the product demo videos they have on there, I ended up going a different direction from either the roof box or hitch boxes I started out thinking of:
Products:
24x60 Curt Cargo Carrier for 2" Hitches - Steel - 500 lbs Curt Hitch Cargo Carrier C18152
etrailer Cargo Bag w/ Mounting Straps - Water Resistant - 20 cu ft - 59" x 24" x 24" etrailer Hitch Cargo Carrier Bag 988501
Couple things that lead me this direction vs. either a roof box or hitch box:
- Considerably cheaper, paid ~$200 for both the carrier and the bag together
- Takes up WAY less space in my garage the 363 days a year I'm not using it. This was a particularly big drawback to the hitch mounted boxes, I kept looking at pictures of the Thule hitch box picturing how much garage space it would take up (the roof boxes I think I could store overhead in my garage, which would get it out of the way although a hassle to put up and get down). Right now I just lean this basket flat against the wall and after I move I will hang it on hooks on the garage wall.
- More weight capacity and volume capacity (~450lbs weight capacity, ~20cf volume, figure the soft bag will make fitting odd shaped items easier)
- More versatile (can use the rack by itself the few times I need to carry a bulky item that won't fit inside the hatch)
- Doesn't cover license plate or taillights as I had it packed, so no need to move the plate or worry about lights as on most of the hitch mounted boxes. Can even see over it decently with the backup cam.
- I was able to open the hatch as I had it packed, but with the carrier back there I found it easier to let the dogs in and out of the back by opening the drivers side rear door and folding the seat down
- One person can put it on and take it off fairly easily without a second set of hands. I also assembled it myself, which was pretty easy although a second person would have made assembly a bit easier.
Only real negative as I see it is it can't be locked, but I figure if I were to stop somewhere overnight enroute to final destination I could just throw the whole bag into the back of the 4runner overnight. Plus, the locks on all the hitch and roof boxes are pretty chintzy IMO (for the hitch boxes IMO they'd be better off including heavy duty hasps so you can use your own abloy protec padlock). On this particular trip locking it wasn't an issue as I didn't make any stops longer than to get gas until I got to my destination and unpacked. It might be a little less weatherproof as well, though nothing got very wet and I did hit some rain.
Overall very happy I went this route, particularly now that it's not in use and not taking up much space.
So I started looking at the various hitch mounted options, including the Thule hitch box, the stowaway2 hitch box etc. But after perusing the different options on entrailer.com and watching some of the the product demo videos they have on there, I ended up going a different direction from either the roof box or hitch boxes I started out thinking of:
Products:
24x60 Curt Cargo Carrier for 2" Hitches - Steel - 500 lbs Curt Hitch Cargo Carrier C18152
etrailer Cargo Bag w/ Mounting Straps - Water Resistant - 20 cu ft - 59" x 24" x 24" etrailer Hitch Cargo Carrier Bag 988501
Couple things that lead me this direction vs. either a roof box or hitch box:
- Considerably cheaper, paid ~$200 for both the carrier and the bag together
- Takes up WAY less space in my garage the 363 days a year I'm not using it. This was a particularly big drawback to the hitch mounted boxes, I kept looking at pictures of the Thule hitch box picturing how much garage space it would take up (the roof boxes I think I could store overhead in my garage, which would get it out of the way although a hassle to put up and get down). Right now I just lean this basket flat against the wall and after I move I will hang it on hooks on the garage wall.
- More weight capacity and volume capacity (~450lbs weight capacity, ~20cf volume, figure the soft bag will make fitting odd shaped items easier)
- More versatile (can use the rack by itself the few times I need to carry a bulky item that won't fit inside the hatch)
- Doesn't cover license plate or taillights as I had it packed, so no need to move the plate or worry about lights as on most of the hitch mounted boxes. Can even see over it decently with the backup cam.
- I was able to open the hatch as I had it packed, but with the carrier back there I found it easier to let the dogs in and out of the back by opening the drivers side rear door and folding the seat down
- One person can put it on and take it off fairly easily without a second set of hands. I also assembled it myself, which was pretty easy although a second person would have made assembly a bit easier.
Only real negative as I see it is it can't be locked, but I figure if I were to stop somewhere overnight enroute to final destination I could just throw the whole bag into the back of the 4runner overnight. Plus, the locks on all the hitch and roof boxes are pretty chintzy IMO (for the hitch boxes IMO they'd be better off including heavy duty hasps so you can use your own abloy protec padlock). On this particular trip locking it wasn't an issue as I didn't make any stops longer than to get gas until I got to my destination and unpacked. It might be a little less weatherproof as well, though nothing got very wet and I did hit some rain.
Overall very happy I went this route, particularly now that it's not in use and not taking up much space.
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Do you have just two crossbars to carry your Thule Motion and the wind deflector? Or do you need a separate crossbar entirely for the deflector?
Deuxdiesel
New member
Thanks for all the help everyone. I have a feeling if the 4runner had better factory rack and cross bars, I probably would have gone with a roof rack. As it stands, the prospect of spending $$$ on aftermarket crossbars and still having only a stated 135lb weight limit for the factory rack (or only ~90lbs of cargo after the ~45lb box is accounted for) I started looking at other options. If my 4runner was newer I would consider upgrading the entire roof rack but didn't want to do that on a ~10yr old car w/ 115k miles.
So I started looking at the various hitch mounted options, including the Thule hitch box, the stowaway2 hitch box etc. But after perusing the different options on entrailer.com and watching some of the the product demo videos they have on there, I ended up going a different direction from either the roof box or hitch boxes I started out thinking of:
Products:
24x60 Curt Cargo Carrier for 2" Hitches - Steel - 500 lbs Curt Hitch Cargo Carrier C18152
etrailer Cargo Bag w/ Mounting Straps - Water Resistant - 20 cu ft - 59" x 24" x 24" etrailer Hitch Cargo Carrier Bag 988501
Couple things that lead me this direction vs. either a roof box or hitch box:
- Considerably cheaper, paid ~$200 for both the carrier and the bag together
- Takes up WAY less space in my garage the 363 days a year I'm not using it. This was a particularly big drawback to the hitch mounted boxes, I kept looking at pictures of the Thule hitch box picturing how much garage space it would take up (the roof boxes I think I could store overhead in my garage, which would get it out of the way although a hassle to put up and get down). Right now I just lean this basket flat against the wall and after I move I will hang it on hooks on the garage wall.
- More weight capacity and volume capacity (~450lbs weight capacity, ~20cf volume, figure the soft bag will make fitting odd shaped items easier)
- More versatile (can use the rack by itself the few times I need to carry a bulky item that won't fit inside the hatch)
- Doesn't cover license plate or taillights as I had it packed, so no need to move the plate or worry about lights as on most of the hitch mounted boxes. Can even see over it decently with the backup cam.
- I was able to open the hatch as I had it packed, but with the carrier back there I found it easier to let the dogs in and out of the back by opening the drivers side rear door and folding the seat down
- One person can put it on and take it off fairly easily without a second set of hands. I also assembled it myself, which was pretty easy although a second person would have made assembly a bit easier.
Only real negative as I see it is it can't be locked, but I figure if I were to stop somewhere overnight enroute to final destination I could just throw the whole bag into the back of the 4runner overnight. Plus, the locks on all the hitch and roof boxes are pretty chintzy IMO (for the hitch boxes IMO they'd be better off including heavy duty hasps so you can use your own abloy protec padlock). On this particular trip locking it wasn't an issue as I didn't make any stops longer than to get gas until I got to my destination and unpacked. It might be a little less weatherproof as well, though nothing got very wet and I did hit some rain.
Overall very happy I went this route, particularly now that it's not in use and not taking up much space.
Good choice for your needs. I have had the same heavy steel cargo rack for years, and have used it on multiple vehicles including a full size tractor with a flexpoint hitch. It's great for fill gas cans as well, because you don't want those inside the 4Runner. 2 caveats, be aware of going up any sort of ramp or incline with a quick transition as it may drag a bit and also be aware of the hot exhaust that exits from the rear. Don't ask how I know these things......
Florunner78
New member
I have three bars. Two up front - one for the air deflector and one for the Thule - and one bar out back.
IndyBlizzard
Junior Member
Cargo Box
I read numerous threads bout the factory crossbars on the four runner I ended up with Yakima timberline rack with a Thule Pulse XL. Glad I took the time to read everyone’s posts. I am happy with my new set up and ready for the family to hit the road.
I read numerous threads bout the factory crossbars on the four runner I ended up with Yakima timberline rack with a Thule Pulse XL. Glad I took the time to read everyone’s posts. I am happy with my new set up and ready for the family to hit the road.
