Help on tires: Load Ratings

JpAdct

Member
Hey everybody, looking for some experienced guidance here. I have googled and read every related thread I can find on here but still struggling to make up my mind on which tires I'd be happy with.

Me: 4th Gen V8, 4wd, stock 18" wheels
Icon c/o's front Superflex rear, should get about 3/2 once installed.

Daily driver, though it doesn't move too much for the next 4 years because I have a take home work car. I don't do much off-roading, nothing heavy until it's paid off and I can start buying armor.

I've had Duratracs on previous vehicles and I'm a fan. I'll most likely be going this route for my current build. My question is, who has gone with E rated tires and regretted it? I can get 275/65r18 in standard passenger load. I believe they said this was 4 ply and plenty heavy for my vehicle. But....... if I allow myself to go to an E rated tire, I have several more size options to match this wheel, not to mention, Duratracs only come in 265 or 285 and while I like the 285 look, I don't want to go that big and face the BMC.

I've thought about going to a 17" rim, but I don't care to fork out more cash only to later discover I would've been fine with E load tires. I understand the E's are heavier and stiffer, but the psi can be lowered for comfort. I've read a lot of people say they hated the harsh ride of E rated tires but I also see many more of you who are running them. If only there were good options for a 275/70r18 in C or D!

I'd probably be fine with the standard load Duratracs, but for this vehicle, I can't help but to wonder if it's a little too light weight, even if I won't be testing the sidewalls on the rocks.

So real world experiences on a 4th gen...... who's got them?

Thanks all!



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While I don't have experience with duratracs, I have KO2s now in 265/70 17 In load range C and they are fantastic. I came from P rated Michelin LTX AT2s and my ride is no worse when inflated to around 38psi. I'm not sure how the duratracs compare to that but I'm very happy with my C range KO2s.
 
If you don't need snow/ice traction and stopping performance on cold icy conditions and like Goodyear the MTR are made in the 275/70/18 size. Many of my buddies swear by the Duratrac even in the winter.

I have not needed the BMC with 285/70/17, 33/12.5/17 or 255/80/17. If anything you may rub the upper control arms or flat out not even fit to bolt on. I needed after market ( Light Racing SPC ) UCAs.

True you can lower tire pressure in an E load to make it more comfortable but you need more air in an E to support the same weight as a C, P, SL. Without the proper amount of air the tires will heat up more. So it's not really that the E rated tires will provide a more stiffer ride but it's that you need more air in them so then the ride becomes stiffer, combined with lift springs and it could get pretty harsh riding.

example. KO2 265/70/17

MAX for C load is: 2470 lbs at 50psi so that's 49.4lbs per psi
MAX for E load is: 3195 lbs at 80psi so that's 39.9lbs per psi

Original bridgestone tires
MAX for SL load is: 2337 lbs at 44psi so that's 53lbs per psi


So the GVW is 6005lbs. But that is split 3300lbs in the rear and 2700lbs in the front but we'll use the higher amount because it's 4x4 and you want equal tire pressure, equal circumference, and more fool prooff tire rotation.....

So half of 3300 is 1650lbs therefore

SL needs 31.1 psi (pretty close to the magic 32psi number)

C needs 33.4 psi

E needs 41.3 psi

I keep my load E 255/80/17 KM2 between 38-45psi. E load or not when I look at them if not aired up properly it looks like I'm riding the side walls. Could just be an optical illusion. I'll keep them above 40 psi until I get fed up with the ride and then I lower the PSI. In reality it's more the result of my Old Man EMU ARB suspension. The real solution is to keep the tire pressure up and increase the weight in the trunk. But I don't always want to ride around with all my tools and offroad gear etc...

If you really go hard, C/D/E they can all puncuture or de-rim. Infact the only tires tires I've seen puncture in the trail have been a load D MTZ, and Load E KO/TA , and have seen load E super swampers and one of my own load E KM2 de-rim. Rock that is well..hard like a rock, vs rubber that is well rubbery....no contest.
 
my last e load tire on the 4r were 265/70/17 mickey thompson baja atz at 40-44psi, personally i like the way they rode, imo, one tough tire. but my new tires are265/70/17 e load GY duratrac at 40-44psi and they do ride smoother, it may be because of the 2ply side wall they now come with instead of the 3 the baja has.
 
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Thanks gang. So it continues, good and bad opinions for both, I guess it just all applies to personal preferences. I'm sure I'd be happy with a C or probably even a D, but I'm too nervous to spend over a grand when I don't know how I'd like the E's. I'll probably just chicken out and buy the SL Duratracs for now.


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Not exactly answering your question but I'll give you my experience with DuraTracs. They have very weak sidewalls. I had 3 sidewall tears on mine and went to KO2's which are much quieter on the road which surprised me.

If you never go off-road DT's will probably be okay. If you go off-road make sure you have a spare (or two!)
 
I'm facing the same decision, but I've ruled out the DTs because of the reports that they get very noisy when worn. The KO2 comes in a load D in 245/65R17 and load C in 265/70R17 - and of course lots of sizes in load E and P-metric. There's also a tradeoff in tread width - for the 245 it's 8" and for the 265 it's 8.8". Many 265 tires have a tread width ~8.4", so neither of these is very different. The 245 would presumably get better mileage, but I'd expect the 265 to ride better on dirt.

I've got a Limited with stock 18" wheels, but I already bought a set of 17" wheels (w/ TPMS they were $250) and I'll put the KO2s on the 17 and winter tires on the 18" wheels.

Lots of people seem to think the KO2s, or DTs, are fine for winter, but I've been very impressed with full-on winter tires. I haven't used either the KO2 or DT, but we got a flat (sharp rock right through tread) on our first desert trip, so I'm getting tires that can better handle rough roads an sharp rocks.
 
FWIW: I have E-load tires on my 4R, however, I was very specific in the tire selection (Bridgestone Dueler Revo 2). This specific tire, in E-load, weighs about the same as a KO2 does in C. The E-load KO2 is about 7 lbs per tire heavier. The Revo 2 is the lightest weight E-load tire I could find. This makes a big difference in on-road performance and ride quality. They aren't an "aggressive" A/T tire but I've had them in Moab, Anza Borrego and a few other places without any issue.

Heavy wheels/tires take a lot of energy to get rolling, making your truck slower and get poorer fuel economy. They also make the suspension work harder. When it comes to handling performance, unsprung weight (ie tires/wheels/suspension) is thy enemy.
 
If you never go off-road DT's will probably be okay. If you go off-road make sure you have a spare (or two!)

This!!

I've seen so many trucks with A/T tires and *****in' looking rims, only to look under the back and see a totally stock spare tire. Probably the original one that came on the truck ( maybe10+ years old at this point).

I highly recommend buying new tires in sets of 5, and when you rotate them, do a 5-wheel rotation.
 

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