Help: VSC/TRAC/ABS/BRAKE lights on plus loud, continuous alarm?

[dannyg]

I have an 03 V8 with around 160,000 miles.
Was driving home as usual when those lights and a loud, continuous beep started.
I pulled over and turned everything off for a minute. When I restarted all of the lights and the alarm were still going.
I decided to finish my commute home (less than 10 mins, 25 mph streets). Everything seemed normal (except the obnoxious noise).

I got home, parked but then needed to move to another spot.
That time moving the vehicle I had to press VERY hard on the brakes, pedal almost went to the floor, to get it to stop (driveway speed). Brake fluid level is normal.

I'm hesitant to even drive down the street to get the vehicle scanned... any thoughts?

Oh, and as this seems brake related I should add that I have had warped rotors that need resurface/replacement for a while now. I have not gotten around to it because I was told the pads were fine and there was no real safety issue, just some not very smooth braking...

 

[KwonRunner]

See if you can pull any codes by going to the local o'Reilly's. At worst, it could be the brake's hydroboost assembly. My 4runners is at the dealer getting that replaced. Pricey to fix.

 

[dannyg]

I had the vehicle scanned at home (at this point I consider it non-drive-able, the brakes hardly work even pressed to the floor).

It did not throw any codes whatsoever....

 

[dannyg]

See if you can pull any codes by going to the local o'Reilly's. At worst, it could be the brake's hydroboost assembly. My 4runners is at the dealer getting mine replaced. Pricey to fix.

Were your symptoms the same as I described?

 

[KwonRunner]

Good news is no. Just thought I'd share because it sounds like you might have brake problems. For me, my vsc off started flashing and my trac lights came on when I would go into h4 or l4. They stayed on going back into h2. The code that came up for me was c1340.

 

[Seymore Butts]

What you described are the classic symptoms of master cylinder failure.

 

[dannyg]

What you described are the classic symptoms of master cylinder failure.

Was hoping this was not the case...
In your opinion, is it worth the ~$100+ to have the dealer or a mechanic do a diagnostic to confirm the issue? Aka, could this actually be a 'cheaper' issue?
From what I have read it may be ~$3K+ to have it replaced :sobbing:

 

[KwonRunner]

What you described are the classic symptoms of master cylinder failure.

Yeah, seems so.

Toyota 4Runner Brake Master Cylinder May Need Replacing

 

[New_2_4runners]

Just buy a new brake accumulator and swap it out. That’s usually the fix.

2003-2005 Toyota 4Runner Brake Accumulator - Brake - Genuine 03-05 4Runner Brake Accumulator - 7926-01209962 - PartsGeek

 

[azgold]

Do not panic. Yes the hydraulic brake booster assembly is very expensive, however you may be able to figure out what specific part in the booster assembly is failing. Some of those specific parts are available through the dealer.

If you have to replace the whole assembly you can purchase them through dealers on line for nearly half the cost of what the local dealer will charge you . If you are a little mechanically inclined, installing it yourself should not be an issue. After an install though, you may consider bringing it to the dealer and have them bleed the system of air.

 

[4RunnerMexico]

Turn the key to on the on position, don't start the truck, have someone pump the brakes.
Open the hood and listen for the electric motor on the bottom of the brake booster. It's under the brake fluid reservoir, the black cylindrical thing.

If the motor is not running, that's your problem. Remove the motor. Get it rebuilt for like 200 bucks at any place that rebuilds electrical motors.

If the motor is running constantly, its the accumulator that is bad. Buy a new one on eBay for around $250...

Had a local mechanic replace both of these parts, charged me 2 hours worth of labor...

Really the motor and accumulator are the only 2 parts of the brake booster that go bad, please don't spend the 3 grand the dealer chargers to replace the whole assembly

Edit: Adding some part numbers that might be helpful.
The accumulator is Toyota Part No.: 47950-30010. If this is bad you also need a new O-Ring gasket for it which is Toyota Part No.: 90301-13014

 

[New_2_4runners]

Turn the key to on the on position, don't start the truck, have someone pump the brakes.
Open the hood and listen for the electric motor on the bottom of the brake booster. It's under the brake fluid reservoir, the black cylindrical thing.

If the motor is not running, that's your problem. Remove the motor. Get it rebuilt for like 200 bucks at any place that rebuilds electrical motors.

If the motor is running constantly, its the accumulator that is bad. Buy a new one on eBay for around $250...

Had a local mechanic replace both of these parts, charged me 2 hours worth of labor...

Really the motor and accumulator are the only 2 parts of the brake booster that go bad, please don't spend the 3 grand the dealer chargers to replace the whole assembly

^^this!

 

[dannyg]

Turn the key to on the on position, don't start the truck, have someone pump the brakes.
Open the hood and listen for the electric motor on the bottom of the brake booster. It's under the brake fluid reservoir, the black cylindrical thing.

If the motor is not running, that's your problem. Remove the motor. Get it rebuilt for like 200 bucks at any place that rebuilds electrical motors.

If the motor is running constantly, its the accumulator that is bad. Buy a new one on eBay for around $250...

Had a local mechanic replace both of these parts, charged me 2 hours worth of labor...

Really the motor and accumulator are the only 2 parts of the brake booster that go bad, please don't spend the 3 grand the dealer chargers to replace the whole assembly

Edit: Adding some part numbers that might be helpful.
The accumulator is Toyota Part No.: 47950-30010. If this is bad you also need a new O-Ring gasket for it which is Toyota Part No.: 90301-13014

Thank you, this is really helpful, I will have to try it out!

So just an update, I did have it towed to the local dealership. They ran a diagnostic ($69), said I needed a new master cylinder assembly and was quoted $3900 for parts and service!

I actually started looking at new car options and test drove a 2019, was only offered $1000 and eventually $2000 trade in value..:wow2:
I still need time to make a decision, my 4r is still sitting at the service center... but knowing the repair could be a fraction of what I was quoted definitely changes things as well. Thanks again!

 

[earthrealm]

either replace the accumulator or consider buying a used unit off ebay, goes for $350 to $700

 

[dannyg]

either replace the accumulator or consider buying a used unit off ebay, goes for $350 to $700

Yes! That is now the plan, I just need to get to the stealership to confirm the issue how 4runnerMexico described.
I called a local shop who said they would replace the accumulator or whole assembly for around 3 hrs labor ~$400, I provide the parts.

Also, is it possible to drive the vehicle in its current condition?

 

[earthrealm]

YUP, ITS POSSIBLE TO DRIve it around in that state, depends on your badt assery level.lol/
drove mine like that for over 2months, while waiting for a replacement booster assy, the brakes still work, just needs gretaer foot pressure to engage the brakes, and greater braking distance, you will most likely rear end someone in a sudden stop scenario
........ not everyone is cut out for such, its not very safe either.....

 

[AuSeeker]

Yes! That is now the plan, I just need to get to the stealership to confirm the issue how 4runnerMexico described.
I called a local shop who said they would replace the accumulator or whole assembly for around 3 hrs labor ~$400, I provide the parts.

Also, is it possible to drive the vehicle in its current condition?

YUP, ITS POSSIBLE TO DRIve it around in that state, depends on your badt assery level.lol/
drove mine like that for over 2months, while waiting for a replacement booster assy, the brakes still work, just needs gretaer foot pressure to engage the brakes, and greater braking distance, you will most likely rear end someone in a sudden stop scenario
........ not everyone is cut out for such, its not very safe either.....

Yes as stated it is possible to drive it but I would highly advise against doing so, you would be risking an accident and if it just a one vehicle accident then you took that risk, BUT you would be putting at risk every driver on the road anywhere near you and that's just not right!!

That being said if you do choose to drive it be prepared to also use the parking brake, if it works and also downshifting if at all necessary, you would be very surprised would well you can stop if you slow down ahead of time and then downshift through the gears at the proper time/RPMs/speed and then use the parking brake along with what brake you have after you get it down to 5 or 10 MPH, just keep in mind that you will need to do a little practicing using the parking brake in a safe place such as a parking lot without many cars around to be able to release it when needing to proceed forward, I had to do this to get my T4R home late at night 3 years ago on Thanksgiving evening, the only reason I took that risk was because it was late at night and very, very few vehicles were on the road, I had no brakes at all other than the parking brake because I had a brake line break and lost all the brake fluid, I would have repaired it before driving it home but being a holiday and also very late there were no auto parts stores opened.

Now as far as the dealership confirming exactly which part of the master cylinder is at fault, I wouldn't count on that happening, they really have no way to test each part of the assembly to determine which part is at fault and most likely wouldn't do it even if they did, the policy at most if not all dealerships and not just Toyota is to replace the entire unit to cover all the bases and get it fix without having to risk a liability.

 

[dannyg]

05 06 07 08 09 Toyota 4Runner ABS Master Cylinder Brake Pump Booster A – Car Parts Direct

Can anyone confirm if this is will work?
Seems like a pretty good deal for the whole assmbly and it says it has a 1 year warranty + free ship...
For some reason, it notes for an 05-09, but weren't the 03-05 the same?
Any feedback would be appreciated!

 

[4RunnerMexico]

05 06 07 08 09 Toyota 4Runner ABS Master Cylinder Brake Pump Booster A – Car Parts Direct

Can anyone confirm if this is will work?
Seems like a pretty good deal for the whole assmbly and it says it has a 1 year warranty + free ship...
For some reason, it notes for an 05-09, but weren't the 03-05 the same?
Any feedback would be appreciated!

Does not work, you need an 03-04. The ABS?VSC system is different on the 05+

 

[AuSeeker]

05 06 07 08 09 Toyota 4Runner ABS Master Cylinder Brake Pump Booster A – Car Parts Direct

Can anyone confirm if this is will work?
Seems like a pretty good deal for the whole assmbly and it says it has a 1 year warranty + free ship...
For some reason, it notes for an 05-09, but weren't the 03-05 the same?
Any feedback would be appreciated!

If that is the complete assembly then it is a very good price, but because how they discribe it I'm thinking is might just be the pump assembly, i.e. the electric motor, pump and actuator, if that's so then it about the right price foe what you can get an OEM pump assembly on ebay, they do have a toll free phone number so I would call them to verify what it actually is.

That all being said I really don't think it will fit you 2003, I think that the assemblies changed in mid to late 2005, so I don't think it would fit a early 2005 but most likely will fit a late 2005, if you noticed they have a note....

"CHECK DATE 2005 MODEL- 4 RUNNER 2005 Actuator/Pump Assm; From 10/04"

Meaning it will only work on 2005s with a build date after 10/04, usually they start building the next year's models around mid year before the actual model year date, so there were many 2005 models build in 2004 and then into 2005 to around the middile of that year.

As an example of how some parts can change/be different on the same year model I know my 2004 V8 was built in 08/03 and has a 2003 era belt tensioner pulley on it (4" or 102mm) but later 2004 V8s have a smaller pulley on the tensioner (3 1/2" or 90mm), I had to get the pulley for a 2003 because all the part stores I went to (5) only had the 90mm pulley listed for 2004 model V8s, this also affects which serpentine belt size it takes as well, I had a hell of a time removing the old belt because whoever replaced the belt just before I bought it had the belt listed for a 2004 on it but that belt fits with the 90mm pulley, I don't know how they even got it on there because the tensioner was maxed out as far as it would go and I couldn't get the belt to get loosed enough to remove it, I instead removed the pully bolt and then pried the old pulley off which was the only way short of just cutting the belt to get it off.