Help with Remote Start install

[gimmie93]

I got the Python 1401 remote start and alarm. I wired everything that i need to wire but having trouble with the remote start.

Im putting this on a 1999 toyota 4runner limited. Ive looked at every forum out there for help. I have a Xpresskit bypass for the key.

When i push the remote start button the alarm trys to start my car but my starter never engages.

I tried programing the alarm to auto from manual but the control button doesn't light up when i try programming it, I've programed it before i took it out and rewired everything.

Here's what i have wired so far...

Harnes color function....color on car

(main harness)
H1/1 Red (+)12VDC Constant Input....White 12V
H1/2 Black (-) Chassis Ground....Ground
H1/3 Brown (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output....Green/Red
H1/4 White/Brown Light flash isolation wire-pin 87a light flash relay....Didn't use
H1/5 White Pin 30 of light Flash relay...Green
H1/6 Orange 500mA Ground when armed output....Not connected

(auxiliary/shutdown harness)
H2/1 Pink/White (-) 200mA flex relay control output...Didn't use
H2/2 Black/White (-) Neutral safety input...ground
H2/3 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd status/Rear defogger output...Didn't use
H2/4 Green/Black (-) 200mA Factory alarm disarm output...Blue/Black driver door OEM factory alarm disarm 18 pin connector
H2/5 Red/White (-) 200mA Trunk Release output...Didn't use
H2/6 Green (-) door Input.... Lt Green/Black
H2/7 Black/Yellow (-) 200mA Dome Light Output...Didn't use
H2/8 Empty
H2/9 Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output...connected to xpresskit bypass
H2/10 Pink (-) 200mA Ignition 1 output...Didn't use
H2/11 White/Black (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output...Didn't use
H2/12 Violet (+) Door Output...Didn't use
H2/13 White/Violet (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output...Didn't use
H2/14 Violet/Black (-) 200mA Aux 2 Output...Didn't use
H2/15 Orange/Black (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output...Didn't use
H2/16 Brown (+) Brake Shutdown Input...Green/White driver kick panel
H2/17 Gray (-) Hood Pin input (NC or NO)...Green/Orange driver kick panel
H2/18 Violet/Yellow (-) 200mA Starter output...Didn't use
H2/19 Blue Factory Horn Input (Use Jumper to set polarity)....Didn't use
H2/20 Gray/Black (-) Diesel wait to start input....Didn't use
H2/21 White/Blue Activation Input...Not connected
H2/22 Orange (-) 200mA Accessory output....Didn't use
H2/23 Violet/White Tachometer Input...Black wire in engine
H2/24 Green/White (-) 200mA Factory alarm arm output...Not connected

(Remote start)
H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output....Black/Yellow ignition harness
H3/2 Red/White (+)12V fused (30A) ignition 2/flex relay input....White/Red
H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory output....Blue/Red ignition harness
H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Output...Green/Black Ignition harness
H3/5 Red (+)12V Fused (30A) ignition 1 input....White ignition harness
H3/6 Pink/White Ignition 2/Flex Relay output....Black/Red
H3/7 Pink/Black Flux relay input 87a (if required) of flex relay....Didn't use
H3/8 Red/Black (+)12V Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter input...White/Red Ignition harness

(Door lock)
1 Blue (-) 500mA Unlock Output....Green/Yellow fuse box
2 Empty
3 Green (-) 500mA Lock Output....Brown/White fuse box

are these connections right? and the alarm didn't come with a starter kill switch how would i hook up a relay to this system to make a starter kill switch?

Also if i were to add a motion sensor what wires do i connect?

help please

 

[BrianSD_42]

I hate to be the one to say it but these remote start systems are well known to cause a lot of electrical problems down the road.

Even if you do get it working, it is likely that it may break in a few years and you will have to deal with electrical ghosts.

I know that if you check out BigFishAllDay 's thread ... he did a detailed alarm install. Perhaps that will help.

Also try using advanced search, ala the link in my signature.

 

[Stick Figure]

99% of the reason for the alarm/remote starts causing problems is crap installation. The Viper in my 4Runner has been there for 4.5 years and was free to me because I pulled it out of a Mitsu Evo because "it was causing problems". Once properly installed and programmed for the 4Runner its been pretty solid since.

For the original question

these diagrams are usually pretty good:
1999 Toyota 4-Runner Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information

Verify you are connected to the right wire with a volt meter or test light to make sure it does what you expect it to. Then double check for any programming that needs done.

For your starter kill relay

Starter Interrupt Relay Diagrams

Motion sensor, I don't have on the 4Runner, but do on the MR2. If you have a shock sensor it is suppose to plug in in place of that. For the MR2 I spliced it in addition to the shock sensor and also ran a switch in between so I could shut down on the motion sensor when the top was up and I was parked in close quarters but still needed an alarm.

 

[gimmie93]

i think my wiring problem might have something to do with the bypass. The install guide that the pkall came with tells me too splice into certain wires. I looked on their website for the install guide and it tells me different colors...

Ive tested all the wires with the volt meter. When i test the violet wire that is connected to the starter when i start it manualy it reads 12v only during crank. but when i test the same wire when i remote start it the wire barely reads 1v..

also do i need to mess with the polarity inside the alarm itself?

 

[Jefe23]

gimme93 - Did you ever get this worked out? If not, I can try to walk you through the installation.

Jeff

 

[gimmie93]

no i still havent got it working. im just having trouble with a few wires

 

[Jefe23]

For some reason you aren't able to accept my PM. We can try to troubleshoot here instead I guess.

If I'm reading your post correctly, you aren't getting any output from the starter wire (purple) coming off the remote start? This could be caused by a couple of different things...

Do you have a safety switch enabled? Hood pin for instance? Also, why are you using a bypass for your vehicle? We don't have chipped keys so there isn't a need for an immobilizer bypass or a transponder bypass.

Also, have you programmed the tach using the supplied momentary switch?

 

[gimmie93]

the switch is enabled. the hood pin is connected to the orange wire by the drivers kick panel, i tested the wire and is working wright. because mines a limited and if i try to start it remotely without the key it shuts off the process. note: i dont have the bypass hooked up at the moment. just trying to start it with the key in the ignition barrel first. I found the tach but when trying to program it with the control button to learn the tach it doesnt work. ill check again here in a little bit.

Also do i need to hook the status wire to the key sense wire?

 

[psiems]

I hate to be the one to say it but these remote start systems are well known to cause a lot of electrical problems down the road.

Even if you do get it working, it is likely that it may break in a few years and you will have to deal with electrical ghosts.

Not so, IMO. I had a remote starter/alarm installed in my last three vehicles, including a Lexus LS430 (I sold the Lexus to extended family last year, a 2001, remote start works every time, zero issues!). It boils down to the following two reasons why these systems fail, in order of significance.

#1 installer
#2 quality of system

 

[gimmie93]

update

everything is working except for the remote start part. i have narrowed it down. the violet wire (starter output) doesnt send and volts when remote starting it. but the red/black wire ((+12v) fused (30A) Accessory/starter input) has 12v going into the fuse and out the other side into the brain.

After testing the fuse's i found that the red/black wire had voltage going into the fuse but not coming out, though the fuse had no sign of being broken. i replaced it and now there is current going into the brain.

MY new problem is there isnt any voltage on the violet wire or orange wire.

note: the tach has been learned, if i start my car manually and press the remote start and take my keys out the car is still running. then i press the start button and it shuts off.

HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!

 

[BigFishAllDay]

gimmie, I tried to reply to your PM's but got a message stating that you had chosen not to recieve PM's at this time... probably a setting in your User CP (see the upper LH side of the forum page)

So.... regarding those PM's.....

I will say that on my 4Runner I did not need a bypass module because mine is an SR5. The bypass is only req'd on the Limited models. I don't have any experience with bypass modules, so I can't offer much help there.

I'd be glad to set you up with a little more info via PM, but I don't think it's a good idea to post the entire layout of your vehicle's security system on the internet. Change your settings so you can receive PM's and we'll talk.

Also, I second what Stick Figure & psiems had to say:

99% of the reason for the alarm/remote starts causing problems is crap installation.

It boils down to the following two reasons why these systems fail, in order of significance.

#1 installer
#2 quality of system

 

[gimmie93]

okay try to send a pm now. it should work

I dont think the bypass is the problem. the reason i say that is i still cant remote start it even if the key is in the ignition barrel.

 

[gimmie93]

still havent gotten the remote start to work. any suggestions?

 

[Groff]

Did you tag both the start wire? Most Toyotas have two start wires, i believe off the top of my head they are green/black and black/white(I think, look it up, buldog's website is helpful, look for vehicle wiring diagrams). Anyway both these wires need to be powered during crank. If you only have one start wire from the remote start, you will need to split it with diodes to prevent backfeeding the current flow. Hope that helps

 

[gimmie93]

i havent tried splitting the starter wire from the remote start with a diode yet. I did however take all the t-taps off and just hardwired every wire and tested every wire.

 

[Groff]

I think that may be your problem if you say you get no crank. If the problem was in the bypass, you would get crank but no start.

 

[Stick Figure]

Did you tag both the start wire? Most Toyotas have two start wires, i believe off the top of my head they are green/black and black/white(I think, look it up, buldog's website is helpful, look for vehicle wiring diagrams). Anyway both these wires need to be powered during crank. If you only have one start wire from the remote start, you will need to split it with diodes to prevent backfeeding the current flow. Hope that helps

Do you mean two ignition wires? I've never seen a Toyota need two Starter wires.

 

[YouInTheShirt]

Remote Start

-The tach wire is not needed. Virtual Tach will suffice for the remote start. Your current tach connection may be the cause of your starter wire not putting out 12v.

-The older vipers have 2 starter wires, one for key side and one for car side. My 2001 only had one starter wire which was green/black.

-I also attached the entire wire diagram for a 2001 4runner. Wire colors should not have changed.

-Double check for an imobilizer. If the wire colors coming from the ignition do not match up to the diagram on the PKALL your runner does not have an immobilizer and you just need to start the vehicle several times to let the virtual tach learn prior to it working correctly.

 

[gimmie93]

-The tach wire is not needed. Virtual Tach will suffice for the remote start. Your current tach connection may be the cause of your starter wire not putting out 12v.

-The older vipers have 2 starter wires, one for key side and one for car side. My 2001 only had one starter wire which was green/black.

-I also attached the entire wire diagram for a 2001 4runner. Wire colors should not have changed.

-Double check for an imobilizer. If the wire colors coming from the ignition do not match up to the diagram on the PKALL your runner does not have an immobilizer and you just need to start the vehicle several times to let the virtual tach learn prior to it working correctly.

I do have an immobilizer. I did take off the tach wire and set the alarm to virtual tach mode and started it about 5 times..still no crank. If i start it and press remote start i then can take out my keys and my truck will still be running, then if i press the remote start on the remote it shuts off the engine.

Any suggestions? im able and willing to try anything now, sense im home from college for the summer

 

[YouInTheShirt]

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