Alright, I started on the front this morning. Total time was about 4 hours. Both front and rear should be able to be completed in a weekend day.
Tools needed for the front:
11/16" box end and socket
14mm box end and socket
3/4" box end and socket
Other box ends and sockets that I cant remember.
Strut Spring compressor (you might not need this)
Ball joint/U-joint tool (cheap one like the version I use can be purchased from Harbor Freight)
Here is a before picture:
First thing is to chock the rear wheel. I also pulled the e-brake. Loosen the lug nuts on one wheel. Jack up the front end and put the jack stand under the chassis. Pull the wheel and loosen the anti-sway bar link (14mm box end and socket):
Also loosen the lower shock mount bolt.
(you might need to adjust the floor jack to take tension off of the lower shock mount bolt)
Then remove the three bolts from the top of the strut and remove the strut from the vehicle. Take apart strut. Remove the upper shock bolt (be careful...the spring can be under pressure). Disassemble the strut.
Next you need to take the upper part of the strut (with the three bolts). These bolt will need to be removed. They are splined near the "head" of the bolt and will come out easily. Just thread the nut on the top of the bolt and smack it with a hammer:
The spacers will come with longer bolts (the spacer will sit above the upper spring plate) and appropriate nuts. You need to press in the new longer bolts. Make sure you put them in the the same direction that you took the others out (I made this mistake). Use the ball joint tool to press in the new bolts:
Then reassemble the strut:
You might need the strut spring compressor here. I was able to complete one side with out it (brute force), but had to head over to O-Reilly's to borrow theirs for the driver's side. Most auto parts stores will "rent" you this tool (you pay full price...use it and they'll give your money back when you are done). I just used the tool in the store.
Here is a close-up of the spacer assembly and the new longer bolts.
The next part is rather dangerous, but I chose this method because I am lazy. You are "supposed" to remove the upper ball joint....but I chose to use the stock bottle jack placed upside down on the upper ball joint and then extend the jack to push down the lower shock mount.
Extend the bottle jack (it can be done by hand without the tool) until you have enough room to insert the shock. Insert the top of the shock first and tighten down one of the three nuts by hand, then slide the lower end of the shock into the mount and insert the bolt and thread the nut on by hand. Now you can remove the bottle jack. Phew...
Tighten the three upper bolts and the lower shock mount bolt. Raise the control arm with the floor jack until you are able to align and reinstall the anti-sway bar link and tighten down the bolt.
It should look like this when you are finished:
Using the floor jack (placed under the control arm), raise the vehicle high enough for you to install the wheel as well as remove the jack stand. Tighten the lug nuts by hand and give them a spin with the 4-way. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts down fully.
Repeat for the other side.
Finished. Here is an after pic:
