HID Projectors

B

Bl4ck4rm4

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Ok guys, I think from my previous postings, we have narrowed to two possibilities, a set of HID Light Kit was bad or my original headlight assemblies are just shot.

I have Xenon Depot doing a replacement right now, excellent customer service and working with me on this. However if it isn’t the HID Kit, I will have to replace the headlight assemblies., more or less HID projector headlight assemblies. Who do you guys recommend?

I’ve been looking around. Only place I can come up with is Black Flame customs. They have a DYI kit and also sell complete assemblies. They are a bit on the high end, but look solid. Money is not going to be an issue, just time cause I don’t really get much free time.

Thanks


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For ~$500 I'd buy new '06 factory headlights and put a 4300K HID kit in it for low beams.

Of course it's a matter of taste, but personally I despise the looks of modified headlights of any flavor - blackened, rings, etc.
 
If I was to go with a projector kit , what size projectors do I need for a 2008? Mini? 2.5”? 3”? Will they accept my H11 kit?

Lots of question for someone in very unfamiliar territory.


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not sure on the specific differences for the late models, but on my 2003 headlights I went with the retrofit source and got the Acme project/hid kit and did it myself. The kit was super cheap and the work wasn't bad. Just had to modify the housing a bit, and really pay attention to to make sure you install them.

The projector was a standard size projector I believe, I don't think it was the mini. If you have time my build thread mdiway through somewhere has some pictures of the lights I built.
 
Bl4ck4rm4 said:
If I was to go with a projector kit , what size projectors do I need for a 2008? Mini? 2.5”? 3”? Will they accept my H11 kit?

Lots of question for someone in very unfamiliar territory.


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Click to expand...

Your 2008 already has an H11 low beam projector. My 2007 does and even with low end LED my lights kick ass. I had to aim them 4” below center at 25’ so I don’t destroy oncoming traffic. I found during a quick internet search there are two different H11’s, either A or B. They both index different and can cause a shadow if you have the incorrect one. Double check your housing and bulbs to verify you purchased the correct ones.

H11A or H11B, Which is for me?

This may shed some light on your issue or I completely missed the whole point. Unless the housing is damaged I don’t see the point in replacing them entirely, unless you’re going for a different look. Once again, just guessing.

By “completely shot” do you mean severely yellowed or faded?
 
Last edited:
Hi-desertT4R said:
Your 2008 already has an H11 low beam projector. My 2007 does and even with low end LED my lights kick ass. I had to aim them 4” below center at 25’ so I don’t destroy oncoming traffic. I found during a quick internet search there are two different H11’s, either A or B. They both index different and can cause a shadow if you have the incorrect one. Double check your housing and bulbs to verify you purchased the correct ones.

H11A or H11B, Which is for me?

This may shed some light on your issue or I completely missed the whole point. Unless the housing is damaged I don’t see the point in replacing them entirely, unless you’re going for a different look. Once again, just guessing.

By “completely shot” do you mean severely yellowed or faded?
Click to expand...


I’m not sure on the indexing, but can tell you if what various websites claim, HID should be the brightest you can get. I can tell you my lights are not kick ass, mediocre at best.

My housing are original. They are clear for there age, a few superficial cracks here and there but nothing in the front with the beam. I have people say my projectors could be burnt. But I don’t see anything that is a tale tell sign. I have a warrantied replacement coming my way, but find it very odd that two HID kits could be bad, not that I could happen.

If getting new projectors help I’m for it. As far as I can tell my assemblies are not yellowed or hazy. You can everything pretty crystal.


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Bl4ck4rm4 said:
I’m not sure on the indexing, but can tell you if what various websites claim, HID should be the brightest you can get. I can tell you my lights are not kick ass, mediocre at best.

My housing are original. They are clear for there age, a few superficial cracks here and there but nothing in the front with the beam. I have people say my projectors could be burnt. But I don’t see anything that is a tale tell sign. I have a warrantied replacement coming my way, but find it very odd that two HID kits could be bad, not that I could happen.

If getting new projectors help I’m for it. As far as I can tell my assemblies are not yellowed or hazy. You can everything pretty crystal.


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Click to expand...

HID are superior that’s why I’m shocked you have issues. If you look through the link I sent it shows the difference between a H11a and b. Install 180° out from each other. If indexed or 180° out, the return wire casts a shadow giving the appearance of a dim light. Idk. Hope this helps man.
 
According to the article, these are h11b. Bigger tab is opposite of the wire. Big tab opening is on the left side. Or right if you are looking straight down.

Both bulbs have the wire mounted downwards.

If it was an mounting issue how would it make it dim? I could see the focus of the bulb not lighting head on or more downwards or left or right, but should still be bright. Of course my only knowledge of HID is they are bright and have ballasts and igniters [emoji3]


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Bl4ck4rm4 said:
According to the article, these are h11b. Bigger tab is opposite of the wire. Big tab opening is on the left side. Or right if you are looking straight down.

Both bulbs have the wire mounted downwards.

If it was an mounting issue how would it make it dim? I could see the focus of the bulb not lighting head on or more downwards or left or right, but should still be bright. Of course my only knowledge of HID is they are bright and have ballasts and igniters [emoji3]


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Click to expand...

That’s just what it says in the “Why should I care” section of the article.
Seems odd that the orientation of the return wire would cast a shadow in the light pattern. Idk man. Hope you get this figured out.
 
Hi-desertT4R said:
That’s just what it says in the “Why should I care” section of the article.
Seems odd that the orientation of the return wire would cast a shadow in the light pattern. Idk man. Hope you get this figured out.
Click to expand...


Ok here is something. I think I might have a clue. I have always been more familiar with your regular lights, nothing projector. From the inside of the projector assembly you have a cut off, hence the z form you see when you align your headlight.
I now see why if the orientation is off why it would be dim.

Now after understanding this now, could the cutoff be faded or any reflective inside the projector be corroded? I know it is grasping at straws here, but it is something I can check with my borescope.


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Just a couple of thoughts here. It's important to note that the optics in all projectors are not created equal. That said, some put significantly more usable light on the road than others. Generally speaking, aftermarket projectors are not as well designed and manufactured as OEM projectors. Also, putting a "better" HID bulb in a poorly designed projector is not going to dramatically improve poorly designed optics.
 
Too Stroked said:
Just a couple of thoughts here. It's important to note that the optics in all projectors are not created equal. That said, some put significantly more usable light on the road than others. Generally speaking, aftermarket projectors are not as well designed and manufactured as OEM projectors. Also, putting a "better" HID bulb in a poorly designed projector is not going to dramatically improve poorly designed optics.
Click to expand...


True you are driving a good legit point. I would assume on a higher quality lenses/ projectors,there has to be some tolerances between lenses. I’m my situation anything will be better, cheap projectors, even cheap headlight assemblies.

However the reality of this is I’m using oem housings with a better quality bulb. The amount of light coming out is minimal. You would think I would have severe yellowing and think haze on the outside lenses with the light coming out. However they are clear, clear enough to make out the details behind the outer lenses.
My problem is I just got defective ballasts, or I have something gone wrong with the oem projectors. I’m just planning ahead if I need to replace the projectors and if I’m going to dig this far into it I might as well go with what is recommend for properly using HID’s.

If my HID kit was working properly, I shouldn’t need to use my fog lights to see the road clearly.


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Ok here is another update and more question. I checked the projectors with my borescope. The metal in the inside of the projector on the bulb side is indeed torched. More on the passenger side than the drivers side. Driver side is a little better but still slightly charred at a single spot.

So at this point I either replace the projectors or do the whole headlight assembly, both sides.

Also how much reflective material is in the projector at the bulb side?

Here is the passenger side
bd2e4f3459edb129efc6d95a37cd1742.jpg



That is not a piston, that is the inside roof of the projector.


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If you're willing to wrench a bit, read on.

Don't waste your money buying a new set of projectors. OEM Projectors are designed for Halogen bulbs. blah blah blah... YES LEDs or HIDs will work in them, but at the end of the day they were designed for halogen bulbs and work best with halogen bulbs. You have 3 options:
1) Worst Case: Buy aftermarket assemblies and re-install HID kit. You'll probably pay ~$200 for some shitty aftermarket assemblies that will yellow and start leaking in a year or two.
2) Moderate Case: Buy OEM assemblies and re-install HID kit. You'll pay $600-800 had have headlights that do a mediocre job with HIDs.
3) Best Case: Keep your existing OEM assemblies and do a full bi-xenon retrofit (~$500). Not sponsored by lightworks, but I've used them in the past with success. You'll need a bracket ($70) and projectors ($350).

I think I commented on your past post, but if you're willing to put in some elbow grease, you'll end up with FAR superior lighting for not too much money.
 
Berty_K said:
If you're willing to wrench a bit, read on.

Don't waste your money buying a new set of projectors. OEM Projectors are designed for Halogen bulbs. blah blah blah... YES LEDs or HIDs will work in them, but at the end of the day they were designed for halogen bulbs and work best with halogen bulbs. You have 3 options:
1) Worst Case: Buy aftermarket assemblies and re-install HID kit. You'll probably pay ~$200 for some shitty aftermarket assemblies that will yellow and start leaking in a year or two.
2) Moderate Case: Buy OEM assemblies and re-install HID kit. You'll pay $600-800 had have headlights that do a mediocre job with HIDs.
3) Best Case: Keep your existing OEM assemblies and do a full bi-xenon retrofit (~$500). Not sponsored by lightworks, but I've used them in the past with success. You'll need a bracket ($70) and projectors ($350).

I think I commented on your past post, but if you're willing to put in some elbow grease, you'll end up with FAR superior lighting for not too much money.
Click to expand...


At this point anything is better but if I’m going to do this right. I’d do option 3. Without a doubt I would do the work myself. What is your experience with lightwerks? I messaged them. Two days ago with no response.


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Bl4ck4rm4 said:
At this point anything is better but if I’m going to do this right. I’d do option 3. Without a doubt I would do the work myself. What is your experience with lightwerks? I messaged them. Two days ago with no response.


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Click to expand...

Call them. Customer service was fine, but nothing amazing.

I ordered from them because they had everything I needed in stock.
 
Berty_K said:
Call them. Customer service was fine, but nothing amazing.

I ordered from them because they had everything I needed in stock.
Click to expand...


Well I’ll call later today, online they show it’s back ordered. I have checked other places, which they have the 4.0 version not the 5.0, but going for nearly the same price. Other places seem to have it out of stock or unavailable.


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the problem is alot of people just leave the lights on and not move, also when you use 50w hid kit, the bulbs run alot hotter, any aftermarket bulbs dont have the same uv protection like oem bulbs. i run 50w ballast, but i use only oem Osram or Philips bulbs, they take the abuse better.
i would just take apart the lights and put some good hid projectors, you got d2s 5.0,g5-r, tl-r, those should require the least amount to do since they have brackets to adapt, the others like mines s2000, rx350, rx330 requires lots of mod, i wouldn't recommend you to do that if you dont have a spare headlight to practice first. once you have that lighting bug, its never going to stop. you want better and better.

Bl4ck4rm4 said:
Ok here is another update and more question. I checked the projectors with my borescope. The metal in the inside of the projector on the bulb side is indeed torched. More on the passenger side than the drivers side. Driver side is a little better but still slightly charred at a single spot.

So at this point I either replace the projectors or do the whole headlight assembly, both sides.

Also how much reflective material is in the projector at the bulb side?

Here is the passenger side
bd2e4f3459edb129efc6d95a37cd1742.jpg



That is not a piston, that is the inside roof of the projector.


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Click to expand...
 
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