97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
I have this kit with the 5500K bulbs and I've never been flashed and they look incredible.
HID upgrade, which one to go with?
- Thread starter scott78945
- Start date
I have this kit with the 5500K bulbs and I've never been flashed and they look incredible.
jeroweezy
New member
i just installed this kit..by looking at the pics i think my relay was wired backwards as far as the length goes. i had to put the relay opposite side of the battery. so my "trigger" to the OEM was the passenger side light. since this kit only uses one connector to OEM to fire the lights. trying to tuck the wires is a nightmare ..mines gonna need some work
boosted_dubb
New member
what watt hid kits are you guys using? gonna order the XD kit @ 4300k but was unsure on 35w or 55w.
XenonDepot
New member
For what it's worth, we only carry 35W HID Kits. That is the same wattage that factory HID applications run at, and they are very bright.
Can you get more light output by using a 55W kit? Sure, but generally those involve pairing a 55W ballast with bulbs that are only rated for 35W anyway. You will get more light, but you may see a reduced lifespan for the bulbs because of that.
Also, if you're going to go with a 55W kit, check the wattage of the stock halogen. Most bulb types used for headlights are 55W or higher, but if you're replacing a halogen that normally runs lower than that (like an H8, for example), you might encounter heat-related issues.
~Robert
Sledneck05
New member
Axix23
New member
looks great. Have you had any issues with HIDS inside your plastic fog lens?
I had hids in my fogs for 3 min and took them out bc they got too hot and i didn't want to melt the plastic lens.
The_Green_Wang
New member
Been running morimotos elite hid kit for almost 2 years. Only had one issue and that was day one but their customer support is fast and very responsive.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Hans Moleman
New member
I kept waiting for the Xenon Depot kit to come back in stock with the Philips bulb but they never did.
So I bought a Hylux kit with CNlight round bulb from Manufactory88 because it go great reviews and it’s cheap, $75.
Supposedly Xenon Depot rebrands their ballasts and as well as many other resellers using Hylux ballasts.
So I bought a Hylux kit with CNlight round bulb from Manufactory88 because it go great reviews and it’s cheap, $75.
Supposedly Xenon Depot rebrands their ballasts and as well as many other resellers using Hylux ballasts.
Sledneck05
New member
Havent had any issues so far.. ill hav to keep an eye on it!
1stTime4Runner
New member
i was wondering why i couldn't find them on the page anymore, but was too lazy to ask.
Hans Moleman
New member
As of last month they told me they don’t know when they will get them.
Sucks because they are the only ones that have philips rebased h11.
Ultraphage
New member
Ultraphage
New member
Ultraphage
New member
The headlights with the 5leds in a row.
1 - those are retrofit mdx headlights. they are one of a kind and too expensive and time consuming to reproduce.
2 - fix your repeated question.
XD HID one month in
I bought the XD HID setup for my 4runner at black Friday and finally got around to installing just after xmas. Ran it without the relay harness as XD said and the consensus was that the draw was low on the ballasts so it wasn't needed.
All was dandy for a month, then I found my passenger light was out on the way home from skiing. It was cold out (down near 0°F) so I assumed the ballast didn't fire and I left it for a day or two till it was a bit warmer and I had time to fiddle with it. Turns out the low beam 10a fuse blew for that side.
Seeing that, I decided to install the relay harness (at least temporarily) to see if direct battery power would be more reliable and to avoid any potential issues with the factory wiring. With the relay harness in place (and blown fuse replaced) the lights test fired and I parked the car for the night. I started the car to go to work the next morning and BOTH lights were out. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!
Sure enough, both 10a fuses in the XD relay harness were blown. I had no spares in the right size so I swapped in what I had (7.5a) and the lights fired up. I have run those since but I have higher amperage spares for if (when?) those blow. It's been a few days with even colder temps and they have held up. I added dielectric grease to all contacts and double checked grounds on the relay harness. Not sure what else I am missing.
Would having the headlights in the ON position when starting the car in cold temps have anything to do with blowing the fuses? Wondering if the draw from the ballasts is too much while also trying to start the car in the cold. I know the headlights were switched ON when both relay harness fuses blew on vehicle startup, and I am almost positive the passenger fuse blew with the headlight ON at startup the first time, too.
The ballasts aren't supposed to draw over 10a. I am now deliberately switching the lights off when I turn the car off and then switching them on after starting the car, which is a pain in the butt. I also killed my battery the other day while parked on the street in Boston because I didn't realize switching the lights back to the parking light position after shutting off the ignition would keep them on all night. Came down from our hotel in the morning to take my daughter to an appointment at the hospital and it was DOA parked in short-term parking in the street. That was a huge PITA.
My thoughts are:
-Keep screwing with the switch when I start/stop the car (nuisance)
-test/replace ballasts if they are repeatedly drawing excess juice on startup - nuisance but maybe better long term solution? How to test if so?
-swap slightly higher amperage fuse in relay harness (sketchy if wiring isn't sufficient to handle the load)
-drive with high beams on all the time like IDGAF
I bought the XD HID setup for my 4runner at black Friday and finally got around to installing just after xmas. Ran it without the relay harness as XD said and the consensus was that the draw was low on the ballasts so it wasn't needed.
All was dandy for a month, then I found my passenger light was out on the way home from skiing. It was cold out (down near 0°F) so I assumed the ballast didn't fire and I left it for a day or two till it was a bit warmer and I had time to fiddle with it. Turns out the low beam 10a fuse blew for that side.
Seeing that, I decided to install the relay harness (at least temporarily) to see if direct battery power would be more reliable and to avoid any potential issues with the factory wiring. With the relay harness in place (and blown fuse replaced) the lights test fired and I parked the car for the night. I started the car to go to work the next morning and BOTH lights were out. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?!
Sure enough, both 10a fuses in the XD relay harness were blown. I had no spares in the right size so I swapped in what I had (7.5a) and the lights fired up. I have run those since but I have higher amperage spares for if (when?) those blow. It's been a few days with even colder temps and they have held up. I added dielectric grease to all contacts and double checked grounds on the relay harness. Not sure what else I am missing.
Would having the headlights in the ON position when starting the car in cold temps have anything to do with blowing the fuses? Wondering if the draw from the ballasts is too much while also trying to start the car in the cold. I know the headlights were switched ON when both relay harness fuses blew on vehicle startup, and I am almost positive the passenger fuse blew with the headlight ON at startup the first time, too.
The ballasts aren't supposed to draw over 10a. I am now deliberately switching the lights off when I turn the car off and then switching them on after starting the car, which is a pain in the butt. I also killed my battery the other day while parked on the street in Boston because I didn't realize switching the lights back to the parking light position after shutting off the ignition would keep them on all night. Came down from our hotel in the morning to take my daughter to an appointment at the hospital and it was DOA parked in short-term parking in the street. That was a huge PITA.
My thoughts are:
-Keep screwing with the switch when I start/stop the car (nuisance)
-test/replace ballasts if they are repeatedly drawing excess juice on startup - nuisance but maybe better long term solution? How to test if so?
-swap slightly higher amperage fuse in relay harness (sketchy if wiring isn't sufficient to handle the load)
-drive with high beams on all the time like IDGAF
Last edited:
the lights will turn off when you lock the vehicle or with a timer, they shouldn't stay on
it sounds like bad ballasts maybe? which kit did you get
definitely don't just replace with a higher amperage fuse, that is never the correct way to deal with a fuse blowing unless you just really enjoy electrical fires
also RIP XenonDepot, they got bought by TRS. Hopefully the quality doesn't suffer, I love my XD Philips bulbs and TRS said they use another source.
In my normal day-today, my lights do turn off when I lock the car (two clicks on the remote) and/or with a timer if not locked or only with one click on the remote. There is a sequence of events that allows them to remain on, however, and I was lucky enough to figure that out the hard way because I didn’t just shut off and lock the car like I normally do (went back and moved the headlight switch after the fact, essentially turning it back on, in an attempt to keep from blowing another fuse when starting the car the next morning, if the lights went on automatically during ignition start). Something to do with the sequence of ignition turning off, door opening and changing headlight switch position. A bit of googling confirms this happens with other years/models, too, apparently. I’m not worried about that part though, lesson learned - I won’t F with the headlight switch after shutting the car off.
I have the XD extreme kit for the 4Runner, 5000k bulbs. I initially thought it’d be a ballast issue when one bulb (fuse) was out. I feel like the odds of both being bad at once is low though, unless by “bad” we just mean higher draw than advertised on startup. It’s especially strange given the fact that the replacement fuses I installed are lower amperage (7.5a) and they have NOT blown since. The difference being when/how I turn the lights on (auto during ignition start popped fuses, while manually switching them on after the car is running does not). If the ballasts were bad, I’d expect they would have popped those fuses no matter when I switched them on.
I’m not interested in upping the amperage on the relay harness fuses due to the known issues that can come with it (unless I can confirm that the wiring can actually handle 12.5a or 15a). Still not ideal but if it comes down to the ballasts just needing more juice than claimed, I can work with that and just build a relay harness with the suitable wire size.
I guess my real question is, does TRS now provide support for XD products, does XD still exist in some fashion and provide support, or am I SOL and left to figure it out on my own?
On a more positive note, the XD LED fogs and high beams I installed at the same time have been great.
TRS says they are up and running now with customer support for XD, see the last post here:
Did XenonDepot get bought out?
Did XenonDepot get bought out?
Similar threads
