deekoi
New member
I had to cut my shrouds to fit.
Hid's or Projector Headlights
- Thread starter Johnnyek9
- Start date
I had to cut my shrouds to fit.
Dispense
New member
I'm excited to see the E55s, they have been my favorite for a long time. I wanted a darker element to the shroud though, to compliment the TE's bezel.
Why would you spend the money on OEM if you are just going to retrofit them?
Jaker
New member
Yep. Agreed. Same reason why I purchased new OEM units as well.
Dispense
New member
Looking at my projectors I wouldn't bank on those lines meaning too much, maybe as a general guide only. They do look to be decent references.
IMO, end result should be proper aiming 25' away. There can be some leeway with up/down, but rotation and left/right need to be pretty much dialed in. At least in my experience, I could be wrong.
Dispense
New member
I've done it both ways now. With my TransAm I used 4 bolts at the corners, elongated the bolt holes some and had the ability for rotation as well.
With the 4Runner I used Epoxy. After looking at the headlamps, I didn't want to have to run bolts thru both the reflector and back casing of the light to be able to adjust. I figured it would just be easy to spot-weld with epoxy.
The bolts-idea works amazing and gives a lot of adjust-ability. Once you Epoxy, thats really your last chance unless you use washers to tilt the headlights or find some other creative way to adjust after the fact.
I'll find out tomorrow night if my epoxy job stayed true...or if I have a squirrel-finder and ditch digger for lights :redbrick:
If I absolutely wanted to do it the best way, I'd choose the bolts.
With the 4Runner I used Epoxy. After looking at the headlamps, I didn't want to have to run bolts thru both the reflector and back casing of the light to be able to adjust. I figured it would just be easy to spot-weld with epoxy.
The bolts-idea works amazing and gives a lot of adjust-ability. Once you Epoxy, thats really your last chance unless you use washers to tilt the headlights or find some other creative way to adjust after the fact.
I'll find out tomorrow night if my epoxy job stayed true...or if I have a squirrel-finder and ditch digger for lights :redbrick:
If I absolutely wanted to do it the best way, I'd choose the bolts.
harper7
Senior Member
I used Silicone.
I am thinking about using bolts, I just think it will be tough do drill perfectly straight in order not to twist the projectors. I guess I'll decide once I get in there. Im interested to see how urs turn out.
Dispense
New member
Check out this posting, shows how to do the bolt-method very well.
FX-R Retro progress... - Tacoma World Forums
FX-R Retro progress... - Tacoma World Forums
harper7
Senior Member
Almost 2 years and no hazing using 100% Dow Corning silicone in clear.I have the typical hazing on the outside top(factory defect IMO) but not caused by the silicone. First just a little to get the aim right,waited a couple of hours til it set, took it for a ride to check the aim on the road ,took the headlights back out and then filled behind the projector about and inch or so deep with silicone and with the light sitting upward.
After about 15-20 minutes later and I was sure it wasn't runny,I put them back on the truck and rechecked the aim one last time before pulling it in the garage and going to bed.I left the outside lenses off til the next morning when it was cured though. It's not really hard ,just time consuming to do it this way.
Silicone is really forgiving compared to epoxy as it can be cut out with an exacto knife if you would screw it up ,change projectors or decide to put them in another retrofit and gives you a little more time to aim them IMO. It can be messy though if you don't take your time.. It does take a good 8-10 hrs(overnight) to completely cure though too.
The heat from the HID projector sets it up pretty fast and silicone is really super tough and durable . I use Dow Corning silicone at work to glue rubber seals on the jet engine fan fillers, that's those things between the front fan blades. . They are out 5+ years enduring unbelievable pressures and temps swings and still stay stuck.We have to use exacto knives to cut them off to put new ones on at overhaul. The key is to make sure it's cleaned with alcohol or RTV primer first and no oil,not even from your fingers, as I wear gloves.
As mentioned earlier by someone ,my E46-R shrouds hole was a little small and I had to dremel them out to fit and used silicone to hold them on too.Another thing to be aware of is the oem headlight buckets,the part where you open up the hole and put the projector down in, are made of fiberglass(for heat) that has been painted chrome and can chip or crack as they are actually kind of brittle after you cut the hole out.
I use a tube in a gun like this guy at the 5:53 mark except I used the actual truck for the aim . Make sure you mute the sound on this video or you'll start bobbing your head like a chicken and won't be able to see:reddance:.. you were warned!
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/qExaAFgvquE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Last edited:
Jaker
New member
I recommend sticking with the factory bulb. Any of the "Xenon match" or "high performance" lighting products are a combination of shortened life and decreased light output.
If you're REALLY set on "upgrading" the fog light bulbs, you'd probably be okay with a normal Silverstar bulb. Stay away from the Silverstar Ultra bulb, though. Waste of money.
