High beam indicator wire under dash

[Doc_Fry]

You have relays to control any amperage. The triggers are on the coil side which have minimal amp load regardless of the size of the load. My point is the OP has no need of whatever it is you can't remember.

Wow that did just happen my long post reset by my safari crashng, shit. Short story. lets post data and let the OP decide. There are many ways to wire this up not just one particular way each has its own merits. The OP was asking how to with the Highpbeam Neg tirgger Iposted two different ways to do so. Relays normal 12V relays such as would work in this manner are under 30amp specialty relays are 100 times more expensive and not used like this. The inflection I am getting makes me instead of being cordial want to post the attached as before I had a long drawn out explaination i doth not want to repeat.

 

[TheDurk]

Wow that did just happen my long post reset by my safari crashng, shit. Short story. lets post data and let the OP decide. There are many ways to wire this up not just one particular way each has its own merits. The OP was asking how to with the Highpbeam Neg tirgger Iposted two different ways to do so. Relays normal 12V relays such as would work in this manner are under 30amp specialty relays are 100 times more expensive and not used like this. The inflection I am getting makes me instead of being cordial want to post the attached as before I had a long drawn out explaination i doth not want to repeat.

Honestly, my tone is the result of my belief that your posts are not being helpful to the OP. Specifically, you rejected the idea that a single relay would work in his application. If you hadn't said that, I would have just ignored your posts as mainly irrelevant to the case at hand.

I don think I was totally clear you do need two relays. one to power the switch the negative relay. one that the switch triggers for the lights the switch controls. two relays. A regular switch does not need the neg relay to power the switch as you usually get it from a ignition or constant power source.

I am the first to say there are many ways to skin electrical cats. I never said what you propose would not work. You said what I propose would not work, without providing any coherent explanation of why. So yes, my tone was curt. I am sorry for that, but so far your tone has been arrogant, without the quality of post, or even decent grammar, to back it up. You really don't need to direct me to 12volt.com to see how to wire a relay, and you would know that if you were familiar with my many electrical posts on this board. You suggest I don't know the difference between wattage and amperage, but I'm the one whose tone is objectionable? Lamps are rated in watts, not amps, so that is why I chose that unit. On a 12V system, once watts are known, the amperage is, too. But fine, we will let the OP make his own decisions.

I'll even post a diagram, if he will:

a) post specs of the aux. lights to be powered, or a model number.
b) state exactly how the lights are to behave--on only with highs, 3-position switch to control, off, on with highs only, on with key on, or whatever he wants.
c) confirm whether or not he has DRL's--year of 4Runner would be nice, too.

You are welcome to do the same, with as many relays as you want.

I am sorry for your TBI--I know a former oncologist with TBI who can't remember he took a leak 5 minutes ago. So you're doing pretty well. Still, I feel an obligation to try to provide good, clear information to posters on this forum. Your posts are quite difficult to follow, and I am familiar with the material. Imagine an electrical neophyte.

I thought your image attachment was cute.

 

[TheDurk]

This setup has worked for mine without issue.

That works fine on a DRL 4Runner. But you missed the whole point of the foregoing discussion (entirely forgivable). Non-DRL 4Runner headlights have switched grounds to control the headlights, so there is nowhere to connect the green wire in your diagram if you want them to come on with highs only or lows only. You can connect the green wire to the high beam wire, but then the 85 terminal has to be connected to a 12V source--usually a fused 12v key-on circuit. I used the parking light circuit for my aux. lights.

 

[Saker]

That works fine on a DRL 4Runner. But you missed the whole point of the foregoing discussion (entirely forgivable). Non-DRL 4Runner headlights have switched grounds to control the headlights, so there is nowhere to connect the green wire in your diagram if you want them to come on with highs only or lows only. You can connect the green wire to the high beam wire, but then the 85 terminal has to be connected to a 12V source--usually a fused 12v key-on circuit. I used the parking light circuit for my aux. lights.

Ok, I must have missed it!
I thought if you could grab a +12V power trigger at the + side of the high beam headlight, when the headlights are switched to high beam that would be your trigger.
This has worked for me whether they had DRL or not.

Thanks for responding!

 

[TheDurk]

Ok, I must have missed it!
I thought if you could grab a +12V power trigger at the + side of the high beam headlight, when the headlights are switched to high beam that would be your trigger.
This has worked for me whether they had DRL or not.

Thanks for responding!

Well, it's not the DRL or not by itself, it's the ground switched headlights. It just happens for obscure Japanese engineering reasons that the non-DRL 3G 4Runners are all ground switched, and the DRL ones are not. Toyota could have done the non-DRL trucks hot switched and then the high beam wire would have worked fine for a 12V+ trigger. So you can do it that way on some non-DRL cars, maybe even most of them, but not on our 3G 4Runners that do not have DRL's.

See the circuit diagrams I put up in my first post. On non-DRL 4Runners, the headlight fuse sends 12V+ power to the common terminal of the headlight bulb, and the high filament or low filaments are turned on by grounding the other ends, respectively, through the stalk switch.

 

[Saker]

Well, it's not the DRL or not by itself, it's the ground switched headlights. It just happens for obscure Japanese engineering reasons that the non-DRL 3G 4Runners are all ground switched, and the DRL ones are not. Toyota could have done the non-DRL trucks hot switched and then the high beam wire would have worked fine for a 12V+ trigger. So you can do it that way on some non-DRL cars, maybe even most of them, but not on our 3G 4Runners that do not have DRL's.

See the circuit diagrams I put up in my first post. On non-DRL 4Runners, the headlight fuse sends 12V+ power to the common terminal of the headlight bulb, and the high filament or low filaments are turned on by grounding the other ends, respectively, through the stalk switch.

Ok, Thanks for the explanation!

 

[Doc_Fry]

durk PM sent as to not muck up this thread anymore with banter back and forth.

to the OP, I apologize how this has degraded into such a ****ing shameful throwing of shit back and forth. I was attempting to be helpful. Again your best resource for this wiring is the12volt.com, most anything you would like to do is explained there in detail. The advise I have is if in doubt and you do not feel comfortable in the end to wire this up, look around for a certified installer. Some do a bette job than others, it really is not a difficult job in the end. I do recommend having all your relays and fuses in one area it certainly helps when troubleshooting something if you have any issues. There are some out there that can build a fuse/relay box that can meet all your needs using either a Bussman fuse/relay box or a custom one. The ones doing the bussman box are a bit more flexible as they can make it to your exact needs. There is one such person on Tacoma Forums, though out of full dislosure be prepared to wait a little while yet you will have a well done high quality product in the end.

 

[4boer2]

I understand I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I used a mini add-a-circuit at the 10 amp high beam fuse location in the engine bay fuse box. That way I didn't need to mess with anything under the dash, or the headlight harness, or a diode, or an inline fuse. Completely removable as well. I have DRL, but I don't see why this couldn't work for a non-DRL car. Brights need power somehow. I used a 3 amp fuse for the new circuit to protect the switch. The only issue is that the trigger wire is very squished with the fuse box closed so if that becomes a problem I'll go down to 22 ga wire (currently using 18). In the future I plan to add a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch so I can turn the lightbar on whenever I want or have it automatically come on with the brights or have it completely off. An on-off-on switch. I just need to find such a switch that will fit in the factory location. My Rigid harness already has a constant 12v trigger so I'm ready.

 

[joshik]

I understand I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I used a mini add-a-circuit at the 10 amp high beam fuse location in the engine bay fuse box. That way I didn't need to mess with anything under the dash, or the headlight harness, or a diode, or an inline fuse. Completely removable as well. I have DRL, but I don't see why this couldn't work for a non-DRL car. Brights need power somehow. I used a 3 amp fuse for the new circuit to protect the switch. The only issue is that the trigger wire is very squished with the fuse box closed so if that becomes a problem I'll go down to 22 ga wire (currently using 18). In the future I plan to add a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch so I can turn the lightbar on whenever I want or have it automatically come on with the brights or have it completely off. An on-off-on switch. I just need to find such a switch that will fit in the factory location. My Rigid harness already has a constant 12v trigger so I'm ready.

re-ressurecting as I'm trying to finalize a setup where high beams trigger a relay. The problem is that with the non-DRL 4Rs are GROUND switched. So the switch to on/off highbeams is on the ground of the high beam. It seems like in your case (DRL model) that the fuse is "off" when high beams are off. This would not be the case for non-DRL models. The fuse would always be hot.

 

[4RinACK]

Don't obsess too much about the Body ECU here. While there are some computer functions with circuits like door locks and windows, for the headlights the only thing that goes on in there is cross connection from one bundle of wires to another, just straight copper traces from Wire A in Plug X to Wire B in Plug Y. If it's a non-DRL rig, the circuit is brute simple no matter where you tap, just so long as you don't ground what should be 12V+ or vice versa--that's never good. It's all dumb relays, not a single semi-conductor on the page. The only exception is the auto-off section in the dash gauge console, so stay away from the red/yellow wire that connects to that.

The DRL circuit is a little more sensitive, but the diagram shown is NOT from a DRL circuit, as that doesn't go through the Body ECU at all except for the main power connections. The control switching all goes to the DRL relays, one of which is actually computerized, sort of. If the OP has DRL's and is using a non-DRL circuit diagram, then he has bigger problems and my comment does not apply. He doesn't give his year, so I can't be positive which he has.

I can't imagine why you would need a second relay just to deal with a ground switched circuit. You just connect the other side of the relay coil to a key-on power source and let the ground switching headlight switch do its thing. There has to be something else going on in there, i.e. a component that is polarity sensitive (LED's), not a simple relay that can be wired either way. If the aux lights are LED's, that makes no difference, as that is the power side of the relay and we are only concerned with the coil side.

Both EWD's are attached. My comment was not made lightly. It's fine to use that wire as a (ground-side) relay coil input for an aux light on a DRL truck. If you want to disagree, please provide an electrical reason so I can refute it.

Hi, apologies for the old thread resurrection but wanted to reconfirm that tapping the HiBeam Relay (located in engine bay box) switched ground (position 1, I think) won't negatively impact ECU. The HiBeam Relay ground pin tap would then connect to the coil side of a new relay - opposite "side" running through a 12+ cabin on/off switch.

The goal being seamless operation of the light bar via hibeam stalk (along with an illuminated on/off switch in the cab)

Anything connecting to/from the ECU the neg makes me a tad nervous!

Hope this makes sense; many thanks!

PS: Also curious if anyone has found a wiring scheme they prefer