blackoutt
New member
Issue: 2007 V8 4x4 with 5100's set on 0 with OME 885 springs and a 1/2" top plate spacer (even with the "diff drop") I will get CV bind on the drivers side axle. The axle shaft will rub on the inset areas of the tri-lobe CV "tulip" cup. I know some people run this much lift or more on a 4wd without any issues. My short solution was to get rid of the top plate spacer essentially shortening my full droop length. Now the issue is I've got some extended travel coilovers on the way and fear is that no matter what preload I set them at, the full extended length of the shock will cause CV binding. Here's someone else's picture on the rub I'm talking about all along the inner edge of the cup:
Solution 1 that I've found is to simply make clearance where it rubs. A member on the 120 Mike07SE had his cup machined down by 1/2" off the end and a new boot groove turned into it, and reassembled with no issues. (Can I link to 120 on here? please delete if not) This seems like it might be a bad idea if I end up creating more stress on the tripod by causing too high of angle for it, cause the tripod to pull out of the cup at extreme angle, or ruin a good core if it leads to failure and I need to get a CVJ reman.
A subset to this solution is to see if I can shift my front dif towards the passenger side to "lengthen" the driver side axle, pulling the tripod further out of the cup and allowing it clear better. Other ways to slightly lengthen the axle are to pull SPC UCA camber adjustment out and LCA caster/camber adjusters all the way out.
his story: CV Joint Failure? - Page 2 - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
where he posted again trying to help someone else: Toyota 120 Platforms Forum - View Single Post - New CV's installed. Heavy vibration under hard accel
Solution 2 is to find a way to convert the crappy low angle tri-lobe to the "930" or "porsche" style CV joint that is used on the outer CV on our axles, as well as the inner CV on gen 1 tundra axles. It looks like Gen 1 Tacoma guys use the gen 1 Tundra axles as a straight bolt in with total chaos long travel kits which works great with the wider track. Both styles of carriers are held onto the shaft with a circlip so maybe I can get a 930 style inner joint from a different vehicle with similar splines and convert. This sounds like a fairly difficult measurement/trial/error/lots of parts swapping to figure out but would be an awesome upgrade.
Solution 3 is that someone joins this thread with another great idea, or other great Toyota axle info to fuel my search and we can lay this one to rest with a simple solution and great travel for all!
Solution 1 that I've found is to simply make clearance where it rubs. A member on the 120 Mike07SE had his cup machined down by 1/2" off the end and a new boot groove turned into it, and reassembled with no issues. (Can I link to 120 on here? please delete if not) This seems like it might be a bad idea if I end up creating more stress on the tripod by causing too high of angle for it, cause the tripod to pull out of the cup at extreme angle, or ruin a good core if it leads to failure and I need to get a CVJ reman.
A subset to this solution is to see if I can shift my front dif towards the passenger side to "lengthen" the driver side axle, pulling the tripod further out of the cup and allowing it clear better. Other ways to slightly lengthen the axle are to pull SPC UCA camber adjustment out and LCA caster/camber adjusters all the way out.
his story: CV Joint Failure? - Page 2 - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
where he posted again trying to help someone else: Toyota 120 Platforms Forum - View Single Post - New CV's installed. Heavy vibration under hard accel
Solution 2 is to find a way to convert the crappy low angle tri-lobe to the "930" or "porsche" style CV joint that is used on the outer CV on our axles, as well as the inner CV on gen 1 tundra axles. It looks like Gen 1 Tacoma guys use the gen 1 Tundra axles as a straight bolt in with total chaos long travel kits which works great with the wider track. Both styles of carriers are held onto the shaft with a circlip so maybe I can get a 930 style inner joint from a different vehicle with similar splines and convert. This sounds like a fairly difficult measurement/trial/error/lots of parts swapping to figure out but would be an awesome upgrade.
Solution 3 is that someone joins this thread with another great idea, or other great Toyota axle info to fuel my search and we can lay this one to rest with a simple solution and great travel for all!
I can assure you that having the largest travel number doesn't mean sh*t for ride quality unless you can control it. 5" of travel would be nice if it was usable but in the case of 885's on 5100's I'm sure I rode near the top of the stroke all the time, great for interstate and driving it like a sports car but poor for fast offroad or full flexing.
