Holy DTC code hell!!! 2008 Limited

[chitown40]

This doesn't make sense - why would the software connect to all but one ECU? It connected to all the ECUs on my '03. In your case, were you not able to connect at all or partial connection like me? I'm thinking this is a case of all or nothing. Puzzled!



The engine was running when I connected. Trust me on that one, bun warmers were on high and so was the heat. It was 27deg outside, LOL!!!

Thanks for the inputs.

PS. Her '08 has MORE ECUs than my '03, wow doggie! I am thinking that I can really muck up some her settings - like the horn honking, key in the ignition ding dong thing.....This is a powerful tool for sure!

I was unable to connect to any of them depending on the program version. It may have been the drivers for the cable but I went through the instructions and installation process several times until I got it to work... And I'm an IT guy...

 

[BlackWorksInc]

[MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION]

Save/Print your Healthcheck results and then recheck your fuses and connections before cycling the key and trying to connect to the vehicle again.

The DTCs stored in the Skid Control ECU indicate that the ECM is not communicating on the CAN Bus for some reason. While it's entirely possible that the scantool is having an issue, the fact that "Current" DTCs are stored in the Skid Control ECU are curious. Did you have any other DTCs in other modules besides the Skid Control ECU? (The "Stored Data" Tab will show the Health Check Results for all modules pinged when you did a health check.

 

[alia176]

I was unable to connect to any of them depending on the program version. It may have been the drivers for the cable but I went through the instructions and installation process several times until I got it to work... And I'm an IT guy...

Ok, that makes sense. It's all or nothing; once you have COMM, you should be able to talk to all ECUs so I"m thinking the engine ECU is unhappy for some reason.

Now, where the heck does this baby live? I want to do a visual check on it just to make sure rodents haven't moved into the area.

 

[alia176]

[MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION]

Save/Print your Healthcheck results and then recheck your fuses and connections before cycling the key and trying to connect to the vehicle again.

The DTCs stored in the Skid Control ECU indicate that the ECM is not communicating on the CAN Bus for some reason. While it's entirely possible that the scantool is having an issue, the fact that "Current" DTCs are stored in the Skid Control ECU are curious. Did you have any other DTCs in other modules besides the Skid Control ECU? (The "Stored Data" Tab will show the Health Check Results for all modules pinged when you did a health check.

I did do a health check and this is what I got back. Unfortunately, the XP box is back at home so I can't muck with it at the moment.

I did a CAN Bus check but not seeing anything under "info". I don't recall seeing any other fault codes from other ECUs. The stored data tab is shown below, not sure if I need to do something different. Still learning this awesome software.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

The ECM lives next to the Blower Motor on the passenger side, take out the glovebox like you would if you were going to change the cabin air filter. On the right hand side of the HVAC Blower Motor assembly/HVAC Intake Housing you'll see a metal box with about 4~5 connectors feeding into it. That's the ECM.

This thread shows the location & removal of the ECM.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156776-replacing-re-circulation-actuator.html

I'd still double check all the fuses and connections at both the ECM and Skid Control ECU. I'd hate to clear the DTCs right now as that would erase any usable data until you replicated the issue you're having; but you may need to do that in case the DTCs are creating a "block" from the modules communicating (unlikely, but I've seen weirder stuff.)

 

[alia176]

The ECM lives next to the Blower Motor on the passenger side, take out the glovebox like you would if you were going to change the cabin air filter. On the right hand side of the HVAC Blower Motor assembly/HVAC Intake Housing you'll see a metal box with about 4~5 connectors feeding into it. That's the ECM.

This thread shows the location & removal of the ECM.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156776-replacing-re-circulation-actuator.html

I'd still double check all the fuses and connections at both the ECM and Skid Control ECU. I'd hate to clear the DTCs right now as that would erase any usable data until you replicated the issue you're having; but you may need to do that in case the DTCs are creating a "block" from the modules communicating (unlikely, but I've seen weirder stuff.)

Ok, will do. Thanks.

 

[alia176]

T
I'd still double check all the fuses and connections at both the ECM and Skid Control ECU. I'd hate to clear the DTCs right now as that would erase any usable data until you replicated the issue you're having; but you may need to do that in case the DTCs are creating a "block" from the modules communicating (unlikely, but I've seen weirder stuff.)

Ok, took the day off from work today and played with the 4Runner. Did everything suggested above and didn't find anything. Skid control connector looks clean, no corrosion. Disconnected each connector from the Engine ecu and reconnected.

No change, same issues as before. P171 & 174 surfaced right before a complete meltdown. The engine has a chronic issue that happens right from the first start/drive. See my youtube video link for a better visualization. All this happened before the complete meltdown. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4tac-TyIQ4

 

[alia176]

Fuel pump strainer clogged

It's time for another update. After installing a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, it was obvious that the fuel rail was losing pressure under load. I'm not sure what the normal engine running PSI is but I was hovering around 25psi with an occasional dive to 0psi or so.

Fuel tank was dropped and the fuel pump assembly removed to find that the pump strainer was clogged with contaminants that I can only surmise came from the in ground fuel tanks at the gas stations. Both sides of the strainer was fairly clogged.

Now, I'm on the hunt for a replacement fuel pump and strainer w/o having to purchase the whole assembly for mucho $$$. It's not worth replacing only the strainer just in case the pump impeller was damaged in any way.

 

[toyo]

Advance sells just the pump module with strainer. Airtex part# E8725.

 

[alia176]

Advance sells just the pump module with strainer. Airtex part# E8725.

Thanks for the info. Same thing at Denso parts as well and at a better price: Automotive Fuel Pumps - In Stock and Ready to Ship

Which begs the question if I can simply order this part from my Toyota dealership and whether or not if that'll include the strainer with the pump as well.

 

[chitown40]

Thanks for the info. Same thing at Denso parts as well and at a better price: Automotive Fuel Pumps - In Stock and Ready to Ship

Which begs the question if I can simply order this part from my Toyota dealership and whether or not if that'll include the strainer with the pump as well.

I hear there's a pretty knowledgeable parts guy in your neck of the woods.

Glad you found the problem and I hope after all this trouble you get some nice smooth easy miles ahead of you.

R

 

[toyo]

Boom! Denso is much better.

 

[gm350reratliff]

OP- glad to hear you got it figured out. Where do you gas up at? Just so I never get fuel there.

I hear there's a pretty knowledgeable parts guy in your neck of the woods.

R

Is this the landcruiser guy at American toyota? I can't think of his name.

 

[chitown40]

cruiserdan is his stage name. Dan is a nice guy and has forgotten more about Toyota parts than I would ever know.

Onur (beno) is also a great parts guy as well but not quite as local anymore.

 

[alia176]

OP- glad to hear you got it figured out. Where do you gas up at? Just so I never get fuel there.
Is this the landcruiser guy at American toyota? I can't think of his name.

Yeah, thanks and it has been a good learning experience. This is an anomaly and probably hasn't happened to anyone else. This vehicle belongs to my GF and we both fuel up at the usual places- costco, Smith's, etc. I'm not sure if the PO of her rig may have picked up the sludge so who knows.

One thing for sure though, I'm going to replace my strainer once I'm done with her rig. I'll start by cutting the access hole adequately large enough under the carpet in order to avoid dropping the tank. Since we only have one fuel filter, I think this ought to be replaced every 100k miles. Once I find out a replacement strainer, I'll post up on a new thread. Heading to NAPA tonight after work to see if they have a suitable substitute. Already asked CruiserDan to order the fuel pump and neither of us are quite sure if a strainer is included with it or not. Guess we'll see in a couple of days!

cruiserdan is his stage name. Dan is a nice guy and has forgotten more about Toyota parts than I would ever know.

Onur (beno) is also a great parts guy as well but not quite as local anymore.

Yes, Dan is known as the parts Shaman in the IH8MUD world and he is local to me. Beno deal with landcruiser parts strictly from what he tells me, also a very good resource for us Toyota folks.

 

[alia176]

Just as an aside, if anyone here needs to rent a fuel pressure test kit, I recommend getting one from Orielly's auto Rental Tools EverTough 67091 - Fuel Pressure Test Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts

What makes this kit very nice is that it comes with few different banjo bolts with schrader valve. Why is this important? Our fuel rails don't have any place to tap into for a tester so you need to make one. We do happen to have a choice of either two banjo bolts on the fuel rail that can be replaced with the schrader valve equipped banjo bolts from this kit.

What I did was to drill and tap one of these banjo bolts to accept a schrader valve from this place. I have spare banjo bolts on the shelf. Then I rented this kit, and screwed in the fuel pressure gauge and found out that the fuel pump is going wonky. Had I known that the fuel pressure kit already has schrader valve equipped banjo bolts, I could've saved myself a lot of downtime.

One good thing is that I can replace the banjo bolts in both of my Toyota rigs with my home made deal so that'll enable me to check fuel pressure anytime. You shouldn't use schrader valve made for a compressed air tank due to the gasoline eating up the O ring that's inside! Use the real deal from the link above as it's made for fuel.

Anyway, just a tid bit for y'all!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

[MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION]

Did you look inside the tank? I don't know if you have it out or not. But you may want to drain it (maybe strain the fuel and save it?) and make sure there isn't a layer of crap ready to bite you again once you put it all back together.

Glad everything worked out in the end! Keep practicing with the scantool. It's a powerful tool for our vehicles.

Surprising that it took us this long to pin it down, but such is life sometimes wheb you're not there to guide/help hands on.

 

[alia176]

[MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION]

Did you look inside the tank? I don't know if you have it out or not. But you may want to drain it (maybe strain the fuel and save it?) and make sure there isn't a layer of crap ready to bite you again once you put it all back together.

Glad everything worked out in the end! Keep practicing with the scantool. It's a powerful tool for our vehicles.

Surprising that it took us this long to pin it down, but such is life sometimes wheb you're not there to guide/help hands on.

The VCI tool is powerful but it's not connecting to all of the ECUs which leads me to suspect either the cable or the actual software. I might download and install an older software and see if it can connect to all ECUs. I can see all ECUs on my '03 w/o issues so that's a good sign.

I do see some flakes sitting on the bottom, nothing substantial and I've been thinking of taking the tank out and cleaning it out but with the short daylight hours, subfreezing temps, motivation has been very low! The tank is sitting on two floor jacks under the vehicle and still connected to one of the hose which i'm not quite sure how to disconnect it. Due to the cold temps at my house, everything is brittle, so I've been very careful not to break it. Vehicle is sitting on the driveway instead of a heated garage because of the fumes!

Thanks again for all of your help on this one!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

You could drain it with a pump and use a gallon or two to flush it out and then strain it. I get not wanting to work in the cold. Flaking is a bit odd since it's a plastic tank though...

Sorry I didn't recognize your username in your fuel filte thread.

 

[alia176]

You could drain it with a pump and use a gallon or two to flush it out and then strain it. I get not wanting to work in the cold. Flaking is a bit odd since it's a plastic tank though...

Sorry I didn't recognize your username in your fuel filte thread.

By flakes, I mean the contaminants that were stuck to the pump strainer. They're a reddish color flakes and I can see few of them scattered on the bottom of the tank.