How do you know if your shocks are bad?

bigsp

New member
I've got a 2010 LTD with 187,000 miles on it. It travels down the road nicely and corners fine but, when I go down a 2 track or any of our great potholed roads here in MI it sounds a little like something is shaking in the front. I had the rack and pinion changed this spring and had front shocks checked.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Bad shocks:
Fluid around shocks
Your vehicle will keep bouncing

Loose clunk sound when over bumps:
Sway bar end links worn
Upper / lower control arms bushing

^ the last 2 are more common in high mileage vehicle
 
I've got a 2010 LTD with 187,000 miles on it. It travels down the road nicely and corners fine but, when I go down a 2 track or any of our great potholed roads here in MI it sounds a little like something is shaking in the front. I had the rack and pinion changed this spring and had front shocks checked.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi bigsp,

There are a few ways to evaluate the condition of your shocks/struts. One way is a visual inspection. Any oil leakage or grease stains near the 'shaft seal' is a good indication that they're due to be changed. Another way is what's known as a Jounce test. This is when you rock the truck up and down vigorously then let go on the "down-stroke". After letting go, the truck should continue one full travel upwards, then find it's 'equilibrium' at curb height... It should never continue to bounce beyond this point!

The other thing is tire wear pattern. If the tires are 'scalloped'; choppy looking treads, it's telling you that the tires are 'skipping or bouncing' and spending way too much time off of the ground, which makes it nearly impossible to "stop... on a dime", a very dangerous condition! Just know that the 'X-REAS' suspension system is very expensive and usually replaced 'as a system' e.g., hydro-lines, center absorber, 4 shocks, etc! As a result, many here have opted to replace this system w/a more conventional shock... so choose wisely, Best to you!

rigtec, cheers
 
Hi bigsp,

There are a few ways to evaluate the condition of your shocks/struts. One way is a visual inspection. Any oil leakage or grease stains near the 'shaft seal' is a good indication that they're due to be changed. Another way is what's known as a Jounce test. This is when you rock the truck up and down vigorously then let go on the "down-stroke". After letting go, the truck should continue one full travel upwards, then find it's 'equilibrium' at curb height... It should never continue to bounce beyond this point!

The other thing is tire wear pattern. If the tires are 'scalloped'; choppy looking treads, it's telling you that the tires are 'skipping or bouncing' and spending way too much time off of the ground, which makes it nearly impossible to "stop... on a dime", a very dangerous condition! Just know that the 'X-REAS' suspension system is very expensive and usually replaced 'as a system' e.g., hydro-lines, center absorber, 4 shocks, etc! As a result, many here have opted to replace this system w/a more conventional shock... so choose wisely, Best to you!

rigtec, cheers

How much would it cost to do new shocks and a small lift/level? Any recommendations. I don't do any hard core off-roading, I do go off-roading while bird hunting in the U.P. of Michigan but, that's mostly just mud and ruts.
 
How much would it cost to do new shocks and a small lift/level? Any recommendations...

Yep... Indulge the search function! There's gotta be AT LEAST 1201 kazillion threads on just shocks and lifts alone; so my 2 cents would be a dis-service here. Enjoy!
 
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Yep... Indulge the search function! There've gotta be AT LEAST 1201 kazillion threads on just shocks and lifts alone; so my 2 cents would be a dis-service here. Enjoy!

I realize that but, I can't ever seem to find what I'm looking for when I search. I just checked my shocks and they do appear to be leaking. I just put new tires on it so, I want to get the shocks fixed ASAP. I'm just looking for a round about cost and what products I should put on my car. I don't know shit about any of this stuff. I love reading about it but, really don't know anything about it.

I would just like a little lift. New shocks, sounds like I should get rid of XREAS and go with standard stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I realize that but, I can't ever seem to find what I'm looking for when I search. I just checked my shocks and they do appear to be leaking. I just put new tires on it so, I want to get the shocks fixed ASAP. I'm just looking for a round about cost and what products I should put on my car. I don't know shit about any of this stuff. I love reading about it but, really don't know anything about it.

I would just like a little lift. New shocks, sounds like I should get rid of XREAS and go with standard stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I dunno if it was typed correctly but 187,000 miles on a 2010? Damn. Anyway, aside from leaking the shocks will not function to prevent excess sway. I realized this when I went over speed bumps and the back end would keep shaking back and forth like when you shake a slinky.

There may be a thread or to on Bilstein 4800HD that may be a good fit for you and keep XREAS (no need to ditch a perfectly good system if you're not going to lift and off-road it). From what I've read it seems like they're slightly stiffer than OEM but not as stiff as 5100s. I just installed a Toytec Boss lift set at 2" two days ago and it makes me smile how much better bumps are soaked up compared to my blown OEM shocks. Hope that helps
 
I realize that but, I can't ever seem to find what I'm looking for when I search. I just checked my shocks and they do appear to be leaking. I just put new tires on it so, I want to get the shocks fixed ASAP. I'm just looking for a round about cost and what products I should put on my car. I don't know shit about any of this stuff. I love reading about it but, really don't know anything about it.

I would just like a little lift. New shocks, sounds like I should get rid of XREAS and go with standard stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

To fix the xreas system will be costly. Spacer lift is the only option with the xreas system. If you decide to trash the xreas system, you have a lot of suspension lifts to choose from. Good luck with your choice.
 
I dunno if it was typed correctly but 187,000 miles on a 2010? Damn. Anyway, aside from leaking the shocks will not function to prevent excess sway. I realized this when I went over speed bumps and the back end would keep shaking back and forth like when you shake a slinky.

There may be a thread or to on Bilstein 4800HD that may be a good fit for you and keep XREAS (no need to ditch a perfectly good system if you're not going to lift and off-road it). From what I've read it seems like they're slightly stiffer than OEM but not as stiff as 5100s. I just installed a Toytec Boss lift set at 2" two days ago and it makes me smile how much better bumps are soaked up compared to my blown OEM shocks. Hope that helps

I may be wrong here, but I think the internals on the HD and the 5100 are actually all the same. However I think the 5100 would be the way to go here because they have adjustable height. OP stated that he wants a small lift and this could be achieved with the 5100's w/o further mods.
 
I dunno if it was typed correctly but 187,000 miles on a 2010? Damn. Anyway, aside from leaking the shocks will not function to prevent excess sway. I realized this when I went over speed bumps and the back end would keep shaking back and forth like when you shake a slinky.

There may be a thread or to on Bilstein 4800HD that may be a good fit for you and keep XREAS (no need to ditch a perfectly good system if you're not going to lift and off-road it). From what I've read it seems like they're slightly stiffer than OEM but not as stiff as 5100s. I just installed a Toytec Boss lift set at 2" two days ago and it makes me smile how much better bumps are soaked up compared to my blown OEM shocks. Hope that helps

You can not retain the XREAS system while replacing the shocks. The XREAS system IS the shocks.
 
I may be wrong here, but I think the internals on the HD and the 5100 are actually all the same. However I think the 5100 would be the way to go here because they have adjustable height. OP stated that he wants a small lift and this could be achieved with the 5100's w/o further mods.

So I need to buy the Blistein 5100's? Both front and rear, do I need new springs as well if I am going to do a lift on the vehicle? If so which ones? I keep hearing the FJ Coils. Should any auto repair shop be able to do this?
 
So I need to buy the Blistein 5100's? Both front and rear, do I need new springs as well if I am going to do a lift on the vehicle? If so which ones? I keep hearing the FJ Coils. Should any auto repair shop be able to do this?

Hi bigsp'

As stated above, you cannot replace an X-REAS shock with an aftermarket device. The X-REAS system 'is a system' meaning, these parts are proprietary; no one makes an alternative shock or any other of it's components to replace them. As far as trying to find the price for a lift and shock replacement... this is (for the most part), a diy support forum; most of the members here enjoy doing their own labor. Notice that in all of these replies, not one person has acknowledged your how much(?) question? That's the reason! For a price quote, check with Midas or pepboys; I'm sure they'd be very happy to oblige. Cheers!
 
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So I need to buy the Blistein 5100's? Both front and rear, do I need new springs as well if I am going to do a lift on the vehicle? If so which ones? I keep hearing the FJ Coils. Should any auto repair shop be able to do this?


Most shops should be able to. Around here it averages about $200-250 in labor for the front and $150-200 for the rear but that really depends on how extensive the install is. New control arms? Bushings? Secondary reservoirs? Do your bump stops need to be replaced? Are you going long travel and need new brake lines? Is there corrosion that will require rework? Not a simple question.
 
Your shocks are bad when you feel like you're on a raft in the ocean. The shocks stop the spring bounce. If you see fluid leaking, your shocks will be bad soon.
 

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