How do you test a coil pack?

T4RFool

New member
I am having a heck of a time figuring out whats wrong with my truck. it hasnt moved in months because of it. it has a sputtering issue at or around 2500 rpms. I have no check engine light and have no smoke coming out the tail pipe. The check engine does flash but does not stay on when it sputters.

I have replaced the spark plugs, checked all my wires which are fairly new, checked the boots on the coil packs, which are also fairly new. I have replaced the fuel filter and just replaced the fuel pump today and still am having problems with it not going past 2500rpms without sputtering.

its an 02 with 140k.
 
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You test the coil pack the same way you would test a 9v battery.
;)

If it sat too long the injectors could be varnished/gummed up. Run some Techron in a half tank of gas and see if you can clean it.
 
im not going to lick the coil pack lol

it wasnt sitting until this problem arose. once it started acting weird I stopped driving but still went out and started it up every once in a while so its not like its been forgotten about.
 
If your CEL flashed you have a code stored. Get it checked to see if it points to a specific cyl.
 
if you think you have a bad coil pack ie you are getting a code for a misfire on a specific cylinder, then swap that coil pack and see if the code fallows the coil pack... if it does then you have a bad coil pack, if the code stays at the same cylinder after you swap coil packs then you probably have a bad plug or injector...
 
I think you should drive it hard until you get a code. If it only happens at 2500rpm or above I'd be inclined to think its more like a cam or crank position sensor throwing the timing off.
 
Try something simple and stupid like cleaning your MAF?

i have cleaned the MAF, that was one of the first thing i did.

Hmmm could a bad fuel filter be the culprit?

i have replaced the filter and the pump

if you think you have a bad coil pack ie you are getting a code for a misfire on a specific cylinder, then swap that coil pack and see if the code fallows the coil pack... if it does then you have a bad coil pack, if the code stays at the same cylinder after you swap coil packs then you probably have a bad plug or injector...

I wish i could check my codes right now but i dont have a scanner, a buddy of mine does and he's currently unavailable. i have double checked all the wiring from the coil packs and the boots attached to them, no knicks or fraying, it all looks new.
 
Update:

it is currently not starting. its was running while i was out working in the garage and it just sputtered off and died and now it wont start. also, NOW i have a code but a code scanner is unavailable. if it is a coil, toyota has a safety in it that will cut fuel delivery if certain codes are produced which may be the reason why its not starting.
 
unfortunately i dont have access to an ohm meter, i might have to wait until tomorrow to use the one i have at work
 
If you aren't in a big hurry, buy a coil pack off eBay for $20 and swap it in.

All too often , electrical things test fine when cold but fail when hot. Swap in a known good one and see what happens.
 
im not in a hurry but i am tired of buying things that aren't the solution to the problem. after spending nearly 200 already, im a little hesitant to buying anything unless im nearly 100% sure its gonna fix it.
 
Update:

i disconnected the battery to reset everything. let it sit for a bit and then reconnected it. it started right up. it idles fine and even drives fine, i just cant rev it up too high cause then it starts to sputter. same issue i've been having since it all started months ago. nothing has improved or change. it idles fine, drives fine but it i rev it up in P around 2500rpm its sputters, driving it is a little different. it varies when it sputters based on hills and load. im out of ideas. i tested the coil packs and they all had the same ohm reading.
 

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