How many CVs have you broken?

well over the last 6 months I have broke 3 or 4 but on New Years day we went out and I blew my most recent one. Drivers side with the front ARB on climbing a pretty step waterfall. didn't think it was a big deal as I drove home on it and went to pull it out today and found this.


the bad part is that the splines are still in the diff. So has anyone else dealt with this (im sure someone has)? is there a way to get the part out with out pulling the front diff and splitting the case? This kind of thing pushes me toward SAS.
 
That right there is why I would never put a stronger CV shaft on an IFS truck.

Maybe drill and tap the stub so you can thread a bolt to pull it out with? I think you're stuck splitting the case, mostly because with shatterage like that how would you know that you got all the pieces out otherwise?
 
That right there is why I would never put a stronger CV shaft on an IFS truck.

Maybe drill and tap the stub so you can thread a bolt to pull it out with? I think you're stuck splitting the case, mostly because with shatterage like that how would you know that you got all the pieces out otherwise?

This was a Reman CV from O'rilley's and I wonder if a stronger axle, lotus or RCV, would not have held up better. My real fear with the stronger axles is that the 7.5" front end would be the weak link and I would be replacing Ring and Pinions all the time. But if I SAS then I still have to deal with U-Joints that break or get CTM's and axles the same, or I did like a diamond or custom axle housing and used longfields. Really I just need to get rockdawg back on the road so I don't do dumb stuff in Smokey. LOL
 
Last edited:
the bad part is that the splines are still in the diff. So has anyone else dealt with this (im sure someone has)? is there a way to get the part out with out pulling the front diff and splitting the case? This kind of thing pushes me toward SAS.

I've dealt with it a few times. Not my own vehicles though. If the splines in the diff and the splines on the axle end that's still in there aren't damaged, they come out fairly easily. I'd tack weld something to the broken off axle piece that I can get ahold of with a slide puller, and just pop it right out.
 
GlenYoshida - 10
Sn0wrunner - 9
Ric - 2
KellyJ - 2
shawnstcyr - 1
Flex Inc Runner - 8
Jon - 6
cooljello6233 - 4
troyboy162 - 2
J-money$$$ - 7
scottyb - 2
brian2sun - 1
ARKRWLR - 6
DeTwizzle - 2
downpour11 - 2
gs300tt - 1
Natemob - 1


OP, I'd like to recommend you mark this list with what were CV Breaks and what were CV Boot Tears.

My CV Boots deteriorated, so did DirtyFingers and many others. CV Boots Rubber leaking, cracking and tearing is normal (most of our trucks are 15+ years old) and to me does not indicate a break.

It would also be awesome if the list indicated what trucks are running 33s, 35s etc.

Luckily for me I have not broken a CV yet. Pretty cool thread though :yo:
 
Last edited:
I've dealt with it a few times. Not my own vehicles though. If the splines in the diff and the splines on the axle end that's still in there aren't damaged, they come out fairly easily. I'd tack weld something to the broken off axle piece that I can get ahold of with a slide puller, and just pop it right out.

Thanks totally worth a try:yo: I will report back.
 
OP, I'd like to recommend you mark this list with what were CV Breaks and what were CV Boot Tears.

My CV Boots deteriorated, so did DirtyFingers and many others. CV Boots Rubber leaking, cracking and tearing is normal (most of our trucks are 15+ years old) and to me does not indicate a break.

It would also be awesome if the list indicated what trucks are running 33s, 35s etc.

Luckily for me I have not broken a CV yet. Pretty cool thread though :yo:

I don't think a single listing in the original post is for a busted boot, knowing Glen and a few of the other names on that list, those are all BROKEN CVs.
 
Yeah I saw a name from the 2nd page stating he only had a torn boot and then his name is on the list I quoted. But now I see he said that in 2009. I guess he broke the actually CV between then and now and that why its on the list.
 
the bad part is that the splines are still in the diff. So has anyone else dealt with this (im sure someone has)? is there a way to get the part out with out pulling the front diff and splitting the case? This kind of thing pushes me toward SAS.

Drill and tap or weld and pull. Either are not that bad. Splitting the case is way, way more work.

If you weld make sure you clean the parts very well. Line the surrounding steel so you don't accidentally weld into the diff. A copper sleeve would help.

Try drilling first though. Nearly all axles have shallow hardening so the center of the axle is pretty soft. Some times the aftermarket c-clips are opened up too much from slop in the manufacturing and can deform when removing. If you rotate the axle shaft it can help move the c-clip to allow it to pop out easier.
 
This was a Reman CV from O'rilley's and I wonder if a stronger axle, lotus or RCV, would not have held up better. My real fear with the stronger axles is that the 7.5" front end would be the weak link and I would be replacing Ring and Pinions all the time. But if I SAS then I still have to deal with U-Joints that break or get CTM's and axles the same, or I did like a diamond or custom axle housing and used longfields. Really I just need to get rockdawg back on the road so I don't do dumb stuff in Smokey. LOL
We discussed the same thing here at Lotus Development. So far we haven't heard of a failure to the ring and pinion before the axle shaft, outer or inner joint failed when using the LD axles. There was one case where the A.D.D. sleeve failed (along with the inner CV axle shaft) and as far as I can tell we seem to be at a good balance point of getting the additional strength needed in the outer race and cage while not over building to the point where the ring and pinion are the weak link. Not to say that someone won't blow up a ring and pinion with our axles. It happens with OEM so it's inevitable that someone will do the same with a LD axle.

OP, I'd like to recommend you mark this list with what were CV Breaks and what were CV Boot Tears.

My CV Boots deteriorated, so did DirtyFingers and many others. CV Boots Rubber leaking, cracking and tearing is normal (most of our trucks are 15+ years old) and to me does not indicate a break.

It would also be awesome if the list indicated what trucks are running 33s, 35s etc.
Why not. I'll update the OP if people post up I'll update. Might be harder to add in the tire size also but that would be cool to see. 9 out of 10 failures have been on 33s - 305/70R16. The first break I had was with 31s.
 
We discussed the same thing here at Lotus Development. So far we haven't heard of a failure to the ring and pinion before the axle shaft, outer or inner joint failed when using the LD axles. There was one case where the A.D.D. sleeve failed (along with the inner CV axle shaft) and as far as I can tell we seem to be at a good balance point of getting the additional strength needed in the outer race and cage while not over building to the point where the ring and pinion are the weak link. Not to say that someone won't blow up a ring and pinion with our axles. It happens with OEM so it's inevitable that someone will do the same with a LD axle.

Thanks that is good info.

BTW Im on 35's and I have broken two outers and now one inner stub.
 
Just a quick update. The piece of spline that was left in the diff was too sharp to get a drill bit to bite on, and I didn't feel comfortable trying the welding so I ended up pulling the diff and was able to remove the extension tube and drive out the broken shaft. went back in just fine and wheeled the snot out of the runner on saturday with no problems.

here is the little culprit. LOL
 
This is the prototype axle with the stronger cage and new race. The inner tripod joint and the mid shaft are still the same as from Toyota, it's the outer joint that has the stronger cage and race. The blue inner silicone CV boot is for those high CV angles. There may be new outer boots soon as well. These boots are blue for this prototype but they may change color.

I just put a set in my rig and I'm having a set being built up for Sn0wrunner so we can both test them. They are essentially available now but I would wait until winter for thorough testing to be done. We should have ample opportunity to break these by then. We have a bunch of fun (hard) wheeling planned this summer and then another Moab trip in the fall. I'll let you know if I think they are worth the extra cost by then. My best guess is that they will be $450/each when all is said and done.

I'm saying it now, these are NOT supposed to be unbreakable. They can still break! The engineering goal is for a balance of greater strength in the outer joint and planned weak link. I'd much rather replace a CV in 30 mins then have to find a way to replace a front differential on the trail.




Here's the prototype CV with the new components in the outer joint. Pretty boring looking right lol?



Do you work at CVJ?
 
I'm curious to know how other people are doing with CVs. I've broken three so far. One axle running 31s on my 1994 4Runner, and two CVs running 33s on my 2001 4Runner.
66.gif
 
I'm curious to know how other people are doing with CVs. I've broken three so far. One axle running 31s on my 1994 4Runner, and two CVs running 33s on my 2001 4Runner.
66.gif

I have put 70k+ miles on my rig. I have wheeled it hard core every summer and little each winter.

Never broke a shaft.

Usually its large tire size (35") larger, front locker or driving style that breaks shafts. Also if you run non OEM shafts they tend to break easier. I use a lot of caution when wheeling so I dont break a shaft.
 
I stopped counting broken CVs some where around 11 or 12.

Upgrading CVs is great and all but it moves your weak point to the diff. Which is not all that easy to change out on the trail...
 
I stopped counting broken CVs some where around 11 or 12.

Upgrading CVs is great and all but it moves your weak point to the diff. Which is not all that easy to change out on the trail...


Upgrading - are you referring to CVJ or Lotus or Tundra/TC LongTravel?

We'd have to REALLY be whomping on it in my opinion to do damage the diff, do you agree?
 
Upgrading - are you referring to CVJ or Lotus or Tundra/TC LongTravel?

We'd have to REALLY be whomping on it in my opinion to do damage the diff, do you agree?

Nope. It's a 7.5" ring gear in a clam shell. They are not strong.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,054
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top