How much do you guys pay for your oil changes?

There's an oil plug washer????? I just did mine today and there was no washer when I undid it so I didn't put no washer back in!! Doesn't seem to be leaking. More headaches...

It cost me like $30 for the oil and filter. I will get the shop to do it from now on but I've never done it on the 4runner so I wanted to go through the motions to be satisfied that I can do it with my tools if need be.



Think he meant diff plug washer... never heard of an oil plug washer. There's no pressure in there to need one to my knowledge. The diff has one for sure.


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That makes sense. BTW I understand there shouldn't be pressure in the differential either because the breather vent equalises it but that can get plugged up like mine was. Does that make sense?
 
Think he meant diff plug washer... never heard of an oil plug washer. There's no pressure in there to need one to my knowledge. The diff has one for sure.


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There is no oil plug washer, there is a gasket, Part No. 90430-12031

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I get them on Amazon ten at a time:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Drain-Gaskets-90430-12031/dp/B007OW6MD6

You use them not because of pressure but to allow sufficient plug to pan pressure so the plug stays in while not damaging the soft threads in your pan. Go without at your own risk.
 
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There's an oil plug washer????? I just did mine today and there was no washer when I undid it so I didn't put no washer back in!! Doesn't seem to be leaking. More headaches...

It cost me like $30 for the oil and filter. I will get the shop to do it from now on but I've never done it on the 4runner so I wanted to go through the motions to be satisfied that I can do it with my tools if need be.

There should be crush washers on all drain & fill plugs, M/T, T/C & both diffs.
There's a kit on Amazon for $11, has T/C & both Diff washers. Got the M/T washers from the dealer. I just did this 2 weeks ago.
Research, Research, Research!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017V4BAXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Following the guidelines of this thread, I guess this DIY job failed...

You would've had a washer on there if you had paid a dear trusted professional to do it. It might crumble at the next change, but dammit there would be a washer there!

:eyebrows:

First time I did my own oil there was no washer, so the pro failed!
 
First time I did my own oil there was no washer, so the pro failed!

For all we know, it could have been a fail from the factory. Some shops might not change the washer but they'll at least reuse it. At least we all now know we can be daredevils and go washer-less for a drain interval.
 
This is my first Japanese car and previously my BMW (which I DIY) was $120+ at dealerships... $55 for DIY, and that was with 7 quarts of synthetic.
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For all we know, it could have been a fail from the factory. Some shops might not change the washer but they'll at least reuse it. At least we all now know we can be daredevils and go washer-less for a drain interval.

yea, who knows how many years I went washerless. It never leaked.
 
Mobil 1 high mileage, 1 qt Lucas synthetic stabilizer, puralator boss oil filter DIY
$50 from advance auto parts. It's on sale about every other month.
 
I just purchased a case of OEM filters on ebay and buy the oil whenever i see them on sale. I would rather do it myself and to know it was done right.:guitar2:
 
yea, who knows how many years I went washerless. It never leaked.

I'm just worried I overtightened the drain plug. In a previous post someone said that the gasket is to protect the soft threads in the pan. I torqued pretty hard on that bolt, to be sure it sealed up.
 
I'm just worried I overtightened the drain plug. In a previous post someone said that the gasket is to protect the soft threads in the pan. I torqued pretty hard on that bolt, to be sure it sealed up.

Knowing how to tighten fasteners without stripping or braking things is a learned skill. Drain pan bolts need to be snugged down but they definitely don't need to be cranked on.

A lot of it comes down to common sense. With a small fastener, use light force. With a large fastener, use heavy force. You need to understand mechanical advantage. If you're tightening a small nut or bolt, either use a small ratchet/wrench or choke up on the wrench to reduce the mechanical advantage. If you're tightening a large nut or bolt, use a large ratchet/wrench and use all the mechanical advantage the tool offers by grabbing the end of the tool. If you're trying to break loose a large bolt or nut, the longer tool you have (ie Breaker Bar) the easier time you'll have braking it loose.

Having a torque wrench at your disposal is definitely helpful and will assist you to learn how much force is enough. But, you can get away without having a torque wrench for many applications like tightening drain plugs. I've tightened 100's of drain plugs over the years and never stripped one. And, a fresh drain plug gasket/washer is always a good idea. I always, always put a new drain plug gasket or washer when servicing my vehicles.
 
Knowing how to tighten fasteners without stripping or braking things is a learned skill. Drain pan bolts need to be snugged down but they definitely don't need to be cranked on.

A lot of it comes down to common sense. With a small fastener, use light force. With a large fastener, use heavy force. You need to understand mechanical advantage. If you're tightening a small nut or bolt, either use a small ratchet/wrench or choke up on the wrench to reduce the mechanical advantage. If you're tightening a large nut or bolt, use a large ratchet/wrench and use all the mechanical advantage the tool offers by grabbing the end of the tool. If you're trying to break loose a large bolt or nut, the longer tool you have (ie Breaker Bar) the easier time you'll have braking it loose.

Having a torque wrench at your disposal is definitely helpful and will assist you to learn how much force is enough. But, you can get away without having a torque wrench for many applications like tightening drain plugs. I've tightened 100's of drain plugs over the years and never stripped one. And, a fresh drain plug gasket/washer is always a good idea. I always, always put a new drain plug gasket or washer when servicing my vehicles.

I'm going to get some gaskets from the Toyota dealer today and put one in. I don't have a torque wrench but it's fairly easy to guesstimate what you are applying. I was using a 10" socket bar and was probably putting about 40-50 lbs of force on it so that works out to about 35-40 ft-lbs. It's all linear so just multiply the force you put on the wrench up or down to bring it to 1 foot to estimate how much in ft-lbs.
 
I'm going to get some gaskets from the Toyota dealer today and put one in. I don't have a torque wrench but it's fairly easy to guesstimate what you are applying. I was using a 10" socket bar and was probably putting about 40-50 lbs of force on it so that works out to about 35-40 ft-lbs. It's all linear so just multiply the force you put on the wrench up or down to bring it to 1 foot to estimate how much in ft-lbs.

Factory spec is 27 ft-lbs so I'm not too far off that, maybe a bit more.
 
I buy the oil from walmart, filter and drain plug gasket from Toyota, and have it changed at a local shop for $18. Total cost is around $40. I could change it myself but it's more convenient to take it somewhere. They let me watch, plus they top off all the fluids and tires if needed.
 

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