How much frame rust is too much?

[GypsyRose]

Hey there, New to the forums. Thought id ask you guys a question about rust.This is my first 4runner so please excuse my lack of knowledge.


At what point is a frame a throwaway? If there is a few small holes rusted through and a lot of surface rust would it be ok to just tack some new plate metal over the holes then grind and treat the rest?

I am working on grinding down all the surface rust on my frame and have an area at the very back on the underside with a strip hole about 6" long and 1" wide. The rest all seems to be solid except for the lateral rod axle mount which is quite rusted out but still has about half the metal holding it on.

What are the key areas I should be looking for excessive rust? Body mount, cross member etc...?

Ill definitely post a pic asap to show you guys what im dealing with.
thanx for all the help
Joey

 

[SR587]

you def dont want rust through your frame. i wouldnt mess with it. i'd say if its going through the frame its way too much

 

[GypsyRose]

 

[GypsyRose]

 

[GypsyRose]

so heres a few pics. The closeup is after I grinded the rust down a bit. That is the only spot with a hole, all the rest of the frame seems to be surface rust and is still quite solid under. Im up in NB so they load the roads with salt here.

Would I just go to a welder and tack on a strip of plate metal over the hole? From what I gather the best steps would be to grind and wire brush all the rust then coat with por15? This isnt going to be my comuting vehicl at all, more of a woods rig then anything.
thanx alot

 

[ironhippy]

I can't see the pictures.

Unfortunately since you are in Fredericton, there very well could be too much rust. I hate salt.

There's a few others on the board from the Fredericton area.

 

[white_n_slow]

I can't see your pictures. There are a few way to deal with a problem like this:

1) sell the truck and buy a new one. Easiest by far and probably cheapest if you put a price on your own time

2) Body/frame swap. If you've got the space and the tools, this isn't really as daunting as it sounds. You should be able to find a donor in the junkyard with enough research.

3) Repair as you go. Tacking in new steel over the hole is not a good solution. All the rotted areas need to be cut out completely and new steel welded into the holes. Surface rust can be ground down and treated, but if you want the solution to be permanent, err on the side of cutting and welding rather than grinding and treating. If you go this route, buy a MIG welder and do it yourself over time. It will will probably cost less in the long run. In terms of treating, I do it like this: bare metal, por15 (2 layers), primer (2 layers), chassis black (however many layers looks good to you). Remember, POR15 is not intended to be exposed to sun/elements, so be sure you at least prime over it when it dries.

 

[ironhippy]

Unfortunately in eastern Canada our resources are limited.

I can't see your pictures. There are a few way to deal with a problem like this:

1) sell the truck and buy a new one. Easiest by far and probably cheapest if you put a price on your own time

There are no rust free 4runners within an (at least) 8 hour drive. Buying another truck will probably eventually lead to this same problem. Clean(er) older Toyotas demand a premium price.

Importing may yield a rust free truck, but complicates and increases costs considerably.

2) Body/frame swap. If you've got the space and the tools, this isn't really as daunting as it sounds. You should be able to find a donor in the junkyard with enough research.

The problem is, if his frame is rusted, the rest of the sheet metal isn't far behind. If the rocker panels haven't been redone, they will need it, as well as the rear gate. Doors won't be far behind.

3) Repair as you go. Tacking in new steel over the hole is not a good solution. All the rotted areas need to be cut out completely and new steel welded into the holes. Surface rust can be ground down and treated, but if you want the solution to be permanent, err on the side of cutting and welding rather than grinding and treating. If you go this route, buy a MIG welder and do it yourself over time. It will will probably cost less in the long run. In terms of treating, I do it like this: bare metal, por15 (2 layers), primer (2 layers), chassis black (however many layers looks good to you). Remember, POR15 is not intended to be exposed to sun/elements, so be sure you at least prime over it when it dries.

This is what most do around here. There are several shops that can do it for a modest price.

Cars are disposable here due to the ridiculous amount of salt that is used on the roads. Sure it's nice to have completely bare roads 2 days after a snow storm, but how at what cost to our vehicles and environment?

 

[GypsyRose]

oops new to the forums so i messed up the pic posting..Here are some photos. I have the description of what is going on in my last post. Thanx

 

[Brian757]

This is too much...

 

[e-caban]

no such thing.

 

[GypsyRose]

Awesome. Thanx so mucch for all the help, i really appreciate it. Looks like im gonna get welding and treating. I think getting this old thing rigged up is going to get addictive