How-To: 99+ Center Dash Conversion with Wiring

Thanks for documenting.

How hard would it have been to replace the steering wheel? Mine is completely worn and a steering wheel cover looks stupid.
 
:nicethread:
 

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How do I get the ebrake to fit with the new center console? Just redrill holes? How difficult is to change the ac controls on a 97 to something newer?
 
How do I get the ebrake to fit with the new center console? Just redrill holes? How difficult is to change the ac controls on a 97 to something newer?

The ebrake from the newer style console bolts right in, and the heater controls you're pretty much stuck with, a ton of work to change.
 
How do I get the ebrake to fit with the new center console? Just redrill holes? How difficult is to change the ac controls on a 97 to something newer?

The ebrake from the newer style console bolts right in, and the heater controls you're pretty much stuck with, a ton of work to change.

I think it just fit, you may have to bent the bracket some or at worst redrill the front hole. And as UnderFire said, yep pretty much stuck with the AC controls. Looked into it for a bit and determined it was pretty much impossible.
 
So I did this a while back and just got around to hooking up the new hazard switch today. First off a big thanks to the o.p. Seeing your write up got me moving on the wiring, thanks to the other folks that have added courage to my wrench all these years. This is the hazard plug freshly tested and ready. I've nearly got the defroster working. I'll post pics when all put back together .
 

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First post here.
First, thank you to the OP for this thread. Used the information contained within and almost everything went smoothly (combo switch lights aren't working....got to check the bulbs).
My question is has anyone figured out the rear defrost button wiring yet? I've searched and searched for both the FSM's and Google to no avail. I live in the Northeast where defrost is a necessary.
 
I'm close, but haven't put any more time into it. For now I have the old switch run down under dash, so I have to reach up and under to access. I'll post up as soon as I figure it out. I figured out the new multi switch, but not which wires go to it from harness. Tag me if you solve it.:artist2:
 
I have "solved" the issue. The problem with my solution is none of the lights for combo switch can be used.
What I learned via a thread on another site is that the IC controller for the 96-98 are located directly in the switch where as the 99-02 IC controller is somewhere else (most likely the body ECU). Because of this, you have to wire the IC board in line with the switch.
Now, I have a slush box so I wanted to retain use of the ECT button. I learned that the Engine ECU only looks for 12v from the button. Basically, if the light for the ECT lights up in the dash, the ECU switches to the different fuel/shift maps.
Here is how I wired everything up. Like I said, you have to retain the IC board out of the original switch or this will never stay on on its own.
2af8b1562b74d4e8a3ebc6e6a1dc69d5.jpg

Any questions, let me know.
 
First off thanks for the motivation on this writeup, I recently picked up a 2000 runner with the mentality of either fix it and drive it or use its parts to update my 97. I knew from the start I wanted the headlights, markers and the grille, and had originally intended on doing just the rear of the console and relocating my switches to the driver's side dash in the open blanks. Now that I have seen it can be done I went ahead and pulled the radio and vent piece out as well and swapped it out. This adds the 2 factory 12v ports in the dash (meaning I can get rid of my 3 port splitter in the glove box since I only ever use 1 port on it) and gets rid of my broken cup holder YAY!

For reference to anyone doing this, as he said the clock is a direct fit, just plug into the new one with your original plug, and the hazard connecter is the same as well, but wired differently. Until it's connected you will have no turn signals and if you connect it and turn on your dash lights you will pop the rear tail fuse under the hood which also disables your headlights and markers as well. Found this out tonight haha. Fortunately I keep spare fuses in my rig!

Only 1 more thing I'm looking for in my interior now is a local source for a cheap right rear cargo trim in gray. I'd enjoy the larger pocket for essentials instead of my little 10 inch square. Haha
 
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How do I get the ebrake to fit with the new center console? Just redrill holes? How difficult is to change the ac controls on a 97 to something newer?

You can either redrill the e brake at an angle to match the new one or get one from a 99+ model. The same thing goes for the metal bracket behind the ebrake, the console bolts to, the 99+ is the same height but sits about an inch further to the rear of the vehicle, the ebrake is held in by 2, 12mm bolts on the front left and back right of the cable bucket, the bracket for the console is 3, 10mm bolts, 2 go into the body and one goes through the rear heat duct if equipped, so depending on that it may only be two bolts, its a good idea to buy a center console accordingly.

Also to your question about the climate controls, as I tried to look into this as I went through my 97 Interior. The 2000 climate control with 2 slides and 2 knobs is a direct fit physically and all its connectors are identical to the 97 climate unit, unfortunately like the updated hazard switch just because the connectors are the same doesn't mean it's plug and play. All 4 linkages to the hvac assembly are a different length, they do connect but your travel on the knobs is only going to be from about 50% cold, across neutral air, then 100% heat. So you'll lose a small amount of the cold air. And without rewiring the switch does this,

Switch set to 0- hvac runs on low setting, ac engaged regardless of output position. (Normally ac override is only in full defrost setting) all backlighting in climate is illuminated, when using the left multi lever to turn on running lights back lighting goes off.

Switch set to 1-system turns off but ac can be engaged with the button as if it is running, light will illuminate as well in switch

Switch set to 2- system goes to half speed, but this will also engage all marker/running lights on the vehicle even if your left multi lever is off. Turning it on shuts all lights off.

Other switches show same strange activity but I can't remember specifics. I'm sure this would be an easy rewire if someone wanted to look into it and swap linkages, since it does use the same connector and the ac button is wired identical. This was to much for me to bother since I'm happy with my manual sliders, just put some new grease on them and reassembled. One thing to note, when removing the trim from a 98 and earlier radio/vent you must remove the small rubber end caps from the sliders and pull the ac button out and remove the black cover from the climate module, since there are 2 hidden screws behind it for the trim piece, and it actually sits infront of the trim, on the 99 and up those screws were not used and the control is mounted behind the trim piece.
 
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Thanks Alex, i ended up not needing them after all, just used a good DMM and some common sense, (it helps that i do vehicle wiring for a living haha) Just pulled all my old switches apart and traced the pcb to its source. here a little more in depth going from a 97-2000 dash and getting all the kinks out of the wiring only thing i didnt get working was the rear defrost but thats because i forgot the 97 switch at home today and i took care of everything i did at my shop where i work.

Techs in my line of work usually use a color code like this,
"Green/Red" This denotes a green wire with a red stripe
whereas "Red/Green" would denote a red wire with a green stripe

I will not list the hazards as alexb listed the 97-2002 retro and the 2000 was identical to the 2002 for that switch

1997 wiring goes as Such,

ECT PWR Switch-Toggle switch which connects +Ignition Feed to Voltage Sense The feed and sense wires are reversible since this is just a direct short across the two wires

White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -
Green/Red ---- + Ignition Feed
Black/Orange ---- Voltage sense to ECU

Rear Window Switch- Momentary Switch with +Neutral wire which is shorted to Up/Down

Red ----Relay Feed for window Up
Green/Black ---- Neutral
LtGreen/Black ---- Relay Feed for window Down
White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -

Rear Defroster- Momentary Switch that toggles Power Across 2 lines to engage/disengage Rear Defroster, this is a timed circuit controlled either in the ECU or in a module located on the body, when active it will illuminate the LED. This is probably a Ground Sense circuit and i will Update this when i have more info and have time to check this circuit directly but wire colors are as such

Black/Yellow ----
Black/Orange ----
Red/Blue ---- I think this wire is Illumination Positive for the "engaged" LED.
White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -


2000 Multiswitch Wiring Goes As Such
ECT PWR Wires
Purple/Yellow ---- +Ignition Feed
Black/Yellow ---- Voltage Sense to ECU

Rear Window Wires
Red ---- Up
Blue/White ---- Neutral
Red/Black ---- Down

Backlight Illumination
White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -

Rear Defrost I will Update this When i get Rear Defroster wiring sorted hopefully one day this week
LtGreen/Black
LtGreen/Red
White/Black



So a direct wire to wire conversion if your wires match for a 1997-200 dash will look as such(any of the 3 pairs of backlight illumination wires can be used, you only need one pair i chose the ECT PWR pair)
1997 wires ---- 2000 wires

White/Green ---- White/Green
Green ---- Green
Black/Orange ---- Purple/Yellow
Green/Red ---- Black/Yellow
Black/Red ---- Red
Green/Black ---- Blue/White
LtGreen/Black ---- Red/Black

3 pairs of wires left for me to figure out for rear defrost both the 97, and 2000 had 3 wires for the defrost circuit they should match straight across but we shall see.

1997 has-

Black/Yellow
Black/Orange
Red/Blue

2000 has-
LtGreen/Black
LtGreen/Red
White/Black
 
I have "solved" the issue. The problem with my solution is none of the lights for combo switch can be used.
What I learned via a thread on another site is that the IC controller for the 96-98 are located directly in the switch where as the 99-02 IC controller is somewhere else (most likely the body ECU). Because of this, you have to wire the IC board in line with the switch.
Now, I have a slush box so I wanted to retain use of the ECT button. I learned that the Engine ECU only looks for 12v from the button. Basically, if the light for the ECT lights up in the dash, the ECU switches to the different fuel/shift maps.
Here is how I wired everything up. Like I said, you have to retain the IC board out of the original switch or this will never stay on on its own.
2af8b1562b74d4e8a3ebc6e6a1dc69d5.jpg

Any questions, let me know.

Do you have a link to where you found the info for this fix? I'm holding the IC board now and looking over it, debating on whether or not to transfer this schematic to the new board and solder in new parts and run and few traces, or just "chop" the defrost side of the board and mount this switch behind the button on the 99 multiswitch. I may also be able to figure out the lighting problem on it as well.

Also to note, you mention the ECT PWR switch in your post and talk about fuel maps, but the IC chip in your picture is for the rear defroster. The ECT power is just a toggle switch in this new dash piece. Confused on your post sortof.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have "solved" the issue. The problem with my solution is none of the lights for combo switch can be used.
What I learned via a thread on another site is that the IC controller for the 96-98 are located directly in the switch where as the 99-02 IC controller is somewhere else (most likely the body ECU). Because of this, you have to wire the IC board in line with the switch.
Now, I have a slush box so I wanted to retain use of the ECT button. I learned that the Engine ECU only looks for 12v from the button. Basically, if the light for the ECT lights up in the dash, the ECU switches to the different fuel/shift maps.
Here is how I wired everything up. Like I said, you have to retain the IC board out of the original switch or this will never stay on on its own.
2af8b1562b74d4e8a3ebc6e6a1dc69d5.jpg

Any questions, let me know.



You have mail.
 
[MENTION=78909]alexb[/MENTION] does your creation make the ECT switch work?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not sure what you mean? The ECT switch always worked, before and after the mod. The defrost switch was the only one I had a problem with.
 
So did anyone actually sort out a relatively simple solution to the defrost? like a repin or do you have to wire in the old defrost switch as a module in line?
 

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