gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I'm starting to tune my F/IC 6 and posting notes in my build thread if anyone is interested and following here. Should be relevant for any 4Runner with a narrowband O2 sensor.
How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread
- Thread starter MTD
- Start date
Renegade_Medic
New member
Alright, so I just mine all wired up. I added the 2.2K Ohm resistor as noted, between CAM1 MAGI+ and MAGI-. It initially started after the install with just the FIC hooked up. it idled poorly. I hooked up my scanner and I've got a P0340 code, even with the resistor. I hard-wired it in and have double checked all connections. I removed the resistor and it still gave me the code. I have put in a 3.3K Ohm resistor and it works better. Now, if it sits for more than a couple minutes, it will not start unless the laptop is hooked up to the FIC. It has the latest flash.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Did you solder your connections or use connectors? Soldering is the way to go, I've seen several issues with using connectors and taps.
If the unit isn't working unless the laptop is hooked up it sounds like the AEC unit doesn't have power.
Renegade_Medic
New member
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. I soldered and heat shrinked all connections. I have checked the voltage at that connector for the FIC and it has 12.7V across all 3 grounds from the red power wire. It's hot at all times, not just Key on, does that sound correct?
Also, I was able to get rid of my P0340 code with a 560 Ohm resistor on the Crank wires. My sensor itself ohmed at 1180 at 90 deg ambient, so its within spec.
Using the gauges in the FIC dash the battery voltage is only showing between 8 and 9V, so I'm suspecting that the internal power supply may be an issue. Gotta love buying used....
I've contacted AEM about sending it in to be checked and haven't heard anything back yet.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
That doesn't sound right. Should have power in the Key On position, since that's the position it's in when driving and have power when in the Start position for cranking.
8V I don't think is enough power for the unit. I have a feeling that's why you were getting a crank sensor code.
I unfortunately had the same experience buying used with the first Snow Performance system I bought. It was their level 3 system that activated the injector based on injector pulse and MAP but the controller was busted and was always on. Had to bite the bullet and buy a new one anyway, it could not be repaired.
Renegade_Medic
New member
Yeah, I'm waiting on the RMA number from AEM to return it to be checked, for a cool 75 bucks. This $400 computer is close to setting me back about 550 after having to buy new wiring as well, the harness that came with it was set up for a 4cyl. Wish I knew what it was to, I would sell it.
I mispoke, it has 12V when the key is on, but apparently stays on for a little while after the key is off, which is when I tested it last time. Today, cold, it had no voltage until key was on. It runs fine and I was able to start tuning it with the USB power. Have half a mind to just keep it plugged into a USB cigarette charger.
I was just reading your other posts, you are running 320cc injectors is that correct?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yeah, the AEM makes it super easy to driver larger injectors. The sky's the limit really, but with the S/C it doesn't flow a ton of cfm so it doesn't need a bunch more fuel. Anything between 300-350cc's will work fine and need no tuning at idle. Actually, I've seen people put up to 400cc's in and still adjust fine at idle. If only it were possible to port the black S/C like you can the grey ones...
Stock injectors are 240cc's.
Renegade_Medic
New member
Alright, got it all tuned and working today. I sent back the unit to the guy I bought it from on eBay and let it be his deal to send it back to AEM. I was able to pick up a new in box one and it fired right up and voltage is reading correctly with that. No codes with the smaller resistor.
I was able to maintain rich-very rich AFRs with my stock injectors, even at redline. Although injector duty cycle said 115% on the log! Considering getting a methanol injection setup to spray, will help with the massive heat soak I have in Texas. I suppose I could sell my URD setup to pay for it. I think I'd opt for the spray vs injectors because of the heat issue. If I lived in a cool/cold climate, I'd just do the injectors and be done.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I also live in a hot climate and water/meth is nice, but doesn't help as much as you think it would. I did some tuning & testing over the weekend (check out aFe 5R oiled filters) and after 3 runs through second gear my engine was toasty and losing gobs of power. It's more of knock insurance when using the 2.1" pulley. However, it would definitely keep you from having to overdrive your injectors. I bet they were just at 100% duty cycle which means they never stop spraying, it's just a direct stream into the engine. Not preferred.
I use a 225cc/min injector, which works out to be about 3 gph nozzle. I have the Snow Performance Stage 2 kit (old style). If I step up to 4 gph it's too much and the engine bogs down.
wrench.n.wheel
New member
From what I can tell, the AEM FIC seems to be a pain in the ass and creates more issues then it solves. Seriously, how many of you are running this system without issues consistently?
