How to install new CV Axles
- Thread starter settytb
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bob3dsf
New member
Roger that. Thx.
bob3dsf
New member
As a matter of fact I can. Don't know why they don't list the reman's online. My printout from the parts dept. says the P/N is: 00016-A5235 Reman Drive axle.
But first, I had just called them and asked about the prices. I looked on their online order site and they don't list the reman's. When I picked mine up, I asked the person at the counter if they could give me a better price. They said no because I already got the "online price." (?) The original quoted price was ~125 incl. the core refund so I got a good deal I think. Pretty much what Cygan1008 got.
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Steamdonkey
New member
It's a little late to tell you this now, but for others about to do this work, I'd seriously consider going with Timken for the knuckle seal as they're much less expensive and appear to be better quality than the OEM seals. After buying the overpriced OEM seal I ordered a National and a Timken from Rock Auto. National was the cheapest and looked exactly like the OEM seal, I think they both had 'National' stamped on them.
lovemybadkitty
New member
Where to hit axle with hammer?
I have been all through this thread and was wondering where on cv axle to hit with pry bar and hammer to remove and install? between diff. housing and shaft? Or on notches in axle? I'm confused as to where to apply force to remove and install. All help is as always greatly appreciated! :bluejump:
I have been all through this thread and was wondering where on cv axle to hit with pry bar and hammer to remove and install? between diff. housing and shaft? Or on notches in axle? I'm confused as to where to apply force to remove and install. All help is as always greatly appreciated! :bluejump:
bob3dsf
New member
Look at my pic in post #56. You're looking at the union where the axles joins the diff. Those notches on the inner axle housing is where you hit with hammer and prybar or chisel (or slide hammer if you have one with a hook attachment).
I recommend against using a "wonder bar." That all I had, it worked but I really had to bash it. I think it's not solid enough to transfer the energy of the strike. A big pry bar or chisel ought to work more effectively as others have mentioned.
lovemybadkitty
New member
thanks
Thanks for the reply! I got the axles out with your recommended tools but I just can't seem to get the darn things in? I tried the clip up and then down and still fighting with getting it to work. I inspected old shaft to new shaft before even trying install as readers have said and the are the same. Only thing is that they are autozone rebuilds. Can't seem to get anything new here in the 4th largest American city (Houston) what a shame.:car:
Thanks for the reply! I got the axles out with your recommended tools but I just can't seem to get the darn things in? I tried the clip up and then down and still fighting with getting it to work. I inspected old shaft to new shaft before even trying install as readers have said and the are the same. Only thing is that they are autozone rebuilds. Can't seem to get anything new here in the 4th largest American city (Houston) what a shame.:car:
Steamdonkey
New member
Are you able to get them started? I had to hammer mine pretty hard to get it all the way seated. I used a 1/2" steel rod with a small plate welded to the end and used a large band clamp to hold it in place while I whacked the end with a 5 lb. hammer. FWIW I installed mine with the clip opening facing down.
lovemybadkitty
New member
install
wow! you may need to pass that special tool around after seeing axles pull three or five times. They seem to start but I guess I am not using enough force. can't seem to hold in place and strike with hammer.
wow! you may need to pass that special tool around after seeing axles pull three or five times. They seem to start but I guess I am not using enough force. can't seem to hold in place and strike with hammer.
Steamdonkey
New member
wow! you may need to pass that special tool around after seeing axles pull three or five times. They seem to start but I guess I am not using enough force. can't seem to hold in place and strike with hammer.
Here's what I used. I didn't have anything handy for a slide weight, I just made a ramp at the end to whack with a hammer when pulling out the axle. A slide would have been better. The white thing in the photo is a 2" PVC coupler with cap, used to install the driver's side oil seal.
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Brutalguyracing
New member
The cvs should slide into the shaft until the clip
Make sure splines line up
Push it in and then use the chisel and give it a good wack
Also as said above
Use some grease in splines and clip
Make sure splines line up
Push it in and then use the chisel and give it a good wack
Also as said above
Use some grease in splines and clip
bob3dsf
New member
Slick tool! I got a 1" x 12" cold chisel to use on my pass. side whenever I can get to it. I'm hoping the metal of the inner axle housing is harder than the chisel. Don't want to chip/cut anything with the chisel.
Make sure you hold inward pressure on your tool during install. I was using a stanley wonder bar, not very dense (I guess), I had to ensure it wasn't bouncing off the axle between hammer strikes. I had to give it 4-5 good, hard, rapid hits to get that clip to pop in. This is vs. slow hard hits with a "wind-up." And, I was directly under it lying perpendicular to the truck (or in-line with the axles) and hitting on the notch facing directly down. That gave me the most room to really get the tool seated well and room to strike. I'm sure this is where a helper using a tool to push inward from another position can help a lot.
Went to Lowes and also found a 2" PVC cap fits perfectly around the hole in the axle seal and sits nicely on the flange for use as a seal driver. It fits both seals, The only difference is the width of the outer flanges
I've read a few other places that on the 4th gen, the clip on the end of the shaft has to be facing down. The confusion comes from a write up on 4x4wire mentioning it facing up, but that was for a 3rd gen IIRC...
Anybody have a good DIY seal driver to fit the knuckle seals? I didn't replace my drivers side, it didn't get damaged when I removed the axle, but I have 'em in case it happens. Still trying to come up with a suitable method to install one if I need to on my other axle.
Make sure you hold inward pressure on your tool during install. I was using a stanley wonder bar, not very dense (I guess), I had to ensure it wasn't bouncing off the axle between hammer strikes. I had to give it 4-5 good, hard, rapid hits to get that clip to pop in. This is vs. slow hard hits with a "wind-up." And, I was directly under it lying perpendicular to the truck (or in-line with the axles) and hitting on the notch facing directly down. That gave me the most room to really get the tool seated well and room to strike. I'm sure this is where a helper using a tool to push inward from another position can help a lot.
Went to Lowes and also found a 2" PVC cap fits perfectly around the hole in the axle seal and sits nicely on the flange for use as a seal driver. It fits both seals, The only difference is the width of the outer flanges
I've read a few other places that on the 4th gen, the clip on the end of the shaft has to be facing down. The confusion comes from a write up on 4x4wire mentioning it facing up, but that was for a 3rd gen IIRC...
Anybody have a good DIY seal driver to fit the knuckle seals? I didn't replace my drivers side, it didn't get damaged when I removed the axle, but I have 'em in case it happens. Still trying to come up with a suitable method to install one if I need to on my other axle.
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Brutalguyracing
New member
For the knuckle seal use a piece of 2x4
Its what i use
That will save your wheel bearings from crapping out
So many people do not do that seal and end up replacing the bearing allot sooner then they expected too
Its what i use
That will save your wheel bearings from crapping out
So many people do not do that seal and end up replacing the bearing allot sooner then they expected too
I had this issue and now I have to go back and do it again. Can someone help locate the correct part numbers for the knuckle seals?
Also, let me know about noob question above.
Brutalguyracing
New member
Yes
A bit of grease on the splines is a good idea
And as for part #'s
I Don't have them with me
Steamdonkey
New member
I think the Toyota part number for the knuckle seal on the driver's side is 90316-A0001. If I recall correctly the passenger side knuckle seal is the same, unlike the diff. housing oil seals that have different part numbers for driver and passenger sides. If time is not a factor I'd seriously consider buying National or Timken knuckle seals (#710573) online as the OEM seals from the dealer are insanely overpriced and appear to be partially relabeled National.
As BGR mentioned, grease the splines on both ends, you don't need much.
Steamdonkey
New member
I don't know if I'd call this a good knuckle seal driver, but it's what I used. It's 1-1/2" x 1/4" with the ends ground to fit inside the 3.84" diameter seal.
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bob3dsf
New member
Nice. Hey, if it worked, I'd call it good. I have some old edger blades that I might be able to grind down. I also thought of just cutting out some wooden circles to fit the diameter. Or I'll just talk to a buddy who welds and see if he has some scrap bar stock.
